Purchasing a CAAD8 frame. Any idea what year?
 

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I have more questions for the seller, but he is off the grid camping... My son made arrangements for pickup for me later this week. I won't see this for at least a week. I expect it is 2006 or 2007, but not sure... Not like NEED another bike project. But if I ever get under 200 pounds, it might be nice to have something newer in my stable...

Also, what group might have been available on the CAAD8 of this era?

Look for serial number and other labels on the bottom bracket or downtube. There should be reference to year of manufacture on there

I believe it's a 2004. But as DOS said, it has information on the BB.

It is later than 2004. CAAD8s didn't come out until 2005 and for first couple of years they weren't marked CAAD8 prominently. The decals, rather than reflecting the frame, reflected the model (R1000, R3000, etc) .I had a 2004 CAAD7, R800 model that wasn't marked CAAD7 anywhere.. CAAD8 largely replaced CAAD7 in 2005, main difference was the rear dropout.They didn't start putting CAAD8 decals on the frames until 2006, when they kept selling CAAD8 but also introduced the CAAD9, to differentiate between the two frames.

Anyway, if its a pre 2008 model, the serial number will be 7digits beginning with a letter followed by numbers.The letter indicates year. N, O, P,Q,R,S for 02,03,04,05,06,07.After 2007, there should just be a sticker with date of manufacture on it (My CAAD10 has sticker that says 15050239, meaning it was the 239 frame that was produced in May 2015.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the year of frame manufacture doesn't necessarily equate to model year. CAAD7s, for example, were available from 2002-2004.According to the serial number of my CAAD7, which was model year 2004 R800 (based on spec and paint job) that I bought in the fall of 2003 (when the 2004s first bcame available), was actually manufactured in late 2002 (serial number began with an N).

Okay, because I have nothing better to do, I did a little more digging and determined that my earlier post was wrong. CAAD8 decals appeared in 2006 and it appears OPs frame is 2006. Moreover, based on the catalog and fact that Ops frame has a slice premium fork, it looks to be an R1000 model in silver. https://vintagecannondale.com/year/2006/2006.pdf, which would have had Ultegra components and Mavic Ksyrium wheels

I do appreciate the unexpected legwork! I have a 98 CAD2 R200, but believe them to be substantially different animals. This bike was originally a 2x7 with downtube shifters, but my wife wanted STI and 3x7. It is a 56cm model that is at the bottom side of my comfort level.. The CAAD8 I'm told, is a 58cm. My son is picking it up today, and I won't get my hands on it till this weekend. Thanks again !!!

You will notice a significant difference in ride quality. Those CAD2s were relatively harsh. Cannondale frames with Optimo tubing — CAAD7, 8, and 9 were all the same tubes with changes to dropouts and tube shapes — smooth things out quite a bit.I loved my 2004 CAAD7; I’d probably still have it if not for a cracked rear dropout (C’dale replaced the frame under warranty with a CAAD10).

I recently picked up a 1992 Trek 1400, and was surprised it rode much smoother than the R200 CAD2... I am curious about expected weight limits on the R1000...

I weighed north of 230 for the first 5 years I owned the CAAD7. I dropped weight in 2009 but still was Clydesdale level -- 195 and 210. It was not an issue as I was not subjecting the frame to the miles or intensity that would result in early failure from fatigue. My cracked drop out 12 years in was not a weight issue and was deemed manufacture defect, so I got a replacement (difference between CAAD7 and CAAD8 is different dropouts, a change I suspected C'dale made because the earlier dropout design was weak).

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My son sent this. It does appear to be a 2006, and it looks in good shape from what little I see...

Yep, 06. Looks pristine.

I was the scrawny runner in high s hool. Weighed 150 from 8th grade till I was 21... Despite growing 6 inches. Joined the Navy, got married, was in the 220 to 230 range when I returned to cycling at 26... I still have that trusty 1986 KHS Fiero, just upgraded, 5600 series 105 stuff and such (chronicled https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ld-friend.html ) The 98 R200 CAD2 was the wife's, but it works for me. I retired from the Navy weighing 240... Fell away from cycling completely. Had a knee replacement 8 1/2 years ago, used the R200 to try getting back in shape from 300... 9 months later crashed bad, breaking my back and more... I weighed 378 a year ago. The bikes and I were not on speaking terms... I chose Hadtric Sleeve surgery, too many injuries not healing, heart issues becoming apparent, sleep apnea, high blood pressure... At 268, I'm back on my bikes. KHS on the trainer for now, R200 waiting for... Something. Not sure yet. Mentioned I recently snagged a 92 Trek 1400. Cleaned it, swapped better wheels under it (which I had), tires, tubes, brake pads, chain and bar tape and it is a dream. Begging for an updating. I was given a drop bar 29er from a guy whom we fostered when he was a teen. He bought a new bike 4 years ago, and sent me his 29er, to help get me rolling after my back... I use it for kicking around on, chasing my grandkids and such. 240 will be a good place, but lower would be nice as well. No rush. On the upside. My weight is down, as is my BP. I breathe much much easier. My exercise heart rate is what my RESTING rate used to be... I may not need my CPAP machine much longer. But, my cardiologist has had me scanned and tested. 68% Ejection Fraction, and a perfect ZERO for Coronary Calcium scan score... I was never diabetic, but that was going to be a factor, my other blood numbers are all in normal ranges. Not bad for a 56 year old... Cycling might not have saved my life directly, but certainly is helping dig myself out of that deep hole I was in...

Now, at 220/230, I broke bike parts. Cheap stuff, expensive stuff. I broke only one frame, a late 80s Bianchi, sheared the BB from the downtube climbing... I will not likely have that power or energy again or anytime soon. But I want stuff that is sturdy and will last. But you never know. I might try that "Good once as I ever was" and having something fast and fun won't hurt.

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1990, century ride in Hawaii. My 1986 KHS... I was never into full kit, but loved my event tshirts... This was before my first upgrade to this old bike...

The ad stated, "never used"... Oh, $50...

Hmmm. A friend is tempting me with SRAM Red 10 speed stuff...

Go for it! Nothing wrong with changing it up! :)

Ok. The seller hot the frame from a friend, who was a bike shop manager. The bike was never ridden, but stripped for a carbon bike. This frame is all but virgin... So. No miles of stress on that carbon fork... $50 is a very small price indeed...

Picked up the frame today... It is easily the lightest frame I've ever held.
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Just a few minor blemishes. To be expected from being kicked around in storage...

I have a lead on some components. Including a DT Swiss wheelset, looking it up, many compare this wheelset to Mavic Krysium Elite...

This bike is going to be faster than I am ready for. I may reset my reward point for finishing and riding.

Never been a big fan of Ksyriums. Depends on the model of course, but generally DT Swiss hubs are superior to what comes on the Ksyriums. But since you got the frame cheap, I might suggest you splurge on the wheels. A good sturdy handbuilt wheel-set from a reputable builder will be fast yet have the durability you need as you continue to work on your fitness.

I've never been in a position like this. I have built wheels myself, but usually with used hubs, new rims and spokes, and settling for strength, not lightweight... I may still grab the DT wheels though, I can use them as spares for my other bikes!

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DT Swiss R1800 Giant LTD Edition wheelset and Michelin Optimum Pro tires. Not sure if they were ever used. SRAM Red crankset, and front derrailure. Not current models. But 2x10. SRAM Force 2x10 brifters. SRAM 11-32 10 speed cassette. Extra cable sets. Bontrager carbon seatpost, may be too short, but the price was impossible to ignore. The Cobb seat was a gift from a friend. Ok. All was a gift, save for the wheelset...

Still need RD, brakes... and not much else...

No intent to purchase as it is too small. But I'm still happy I got a great deal....
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Scored brakes, and a SRAM Rival RD. Thought I'd slap on my Red FD. Oops! Too small! Won't fit the CAAD8... Well, I guess I search now!

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Trip to the bike collective was fruitful... 4600 series 12 to 30 cassette and FD. Never knew Tiagra came as a braze-on...

Ok. I want better for this bike. But then again cheap is good. I'm in this now less than $150...

Ordering chain soon.

And now for a potentially silly question.

I need a bottom bracket cable guide for this bike. Are they pretty much universal still? Or, should I get this one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Cannondale-Bo...cm_wl_huc_item

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You want this one: https://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Ca...002_p_158.html

A universal one could be made to work, but you would need to add some lining to protect the chainstay bridge area from rubbing.