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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

bharrisonb 06-13-24 07:08 PM

I recently rescued a 1969 Phillips moments before it would have been picked up for trash. It was in rough shape, but I refreshed it ...

I decided to repaint the mudguards (very rusted, originally black with a white tail).. After sanding, I used Rustoleum Glossy and used the original transition lines for the whitetail. I did decide to use a thin strip of black electrical tape between the red and white, and applied some clear spray over the tape for longevity. I like the look of the black. The original fairy lite reflector (still rusted) looks swell.

The rest of the frame / forks is the original black to preserve the old look and decals.

New cables, new pedals with toe straps (which I prefer to use when riding distances), Kool-Stop brake pads, new tires / tubes, a 22T sprocket, new chain, and added a bell and a wired odometer. The AW hub was fine (with some fresh oil), and oil down the seat tube to lube the bottom bracket. I've taken it on a few 30 mile rides ... smooth as silk and a pleasure to ride.

Here's the rear mudguards ...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...09e425b2b6.jpg

almico8 06-13-24 08:29 PM


Originally Posted by bharrisonb (Post 23267502)
I recently rescued a 1969 Phillips moments before it would have been picked up for trash. It was in rough shape, but I refreshed it ...

Very nice!

almico8 06-14-24 07:08 AM

I'm finally bonafide on the forum and can post pics. . Here are some of the '69 Raleigh Tourist I'm looking at. I'm by no means an expert in anything, let alone "English racers". I'm just an old guy that likes to ride bikes as slow as possible.

Seller seems like a decent bloke and it appears to be in good nick. New tires, recent "service". Am I getting into a project for $150?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4a7aba8d66.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cf2d6b9810.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0696273dbc.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...63fca80351.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b5c49a9aca.jpg

SirMike1983 06-14-24 09:36 AM

That's a mid 1970s Tourist with an earlier 5-speed hub on it. If it fits you, buy at $150.

almico8 06-14-24 02:03 PM

Well, itís mine. Needs more than a little work. Brakes, speeds, etc. $100 for a project I need like a hole in the head, but I think it will be fun. When I get home, Iíll check back in for sources of info for service manuals, and parts availability


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...42a49730c.jpeg

almico8 06-14-24 06:26 PM

Bike is home. Already did my first "repair". The drive side shifter wasn't working when I picked it up. The seller was surprised and when I looked at the linkage I found the whatsis shaft unscrewed from the gizmo inside the hub. Screwed it back in and it's "working".

So much to do on the this bike. It appears to be all there and worth bringing back. I'll probably take it apart bit by bit and de-rust and refurbish what I can.

That said, I could really use some guidance. I'm pretty mechanical, but this is all a foreign language to me. Are there parts books and service manuals available? Heck, I don't even know how these double trigger shifters are supposed to work!

The serial number was on the downtube below the seat post. E4205222. A little sleuthing tells me this is a 1970 bike. Makes sense now with the 1969 SA hub. Speaking of which, does SA have parts and old manuals for their hubs? There sure are enough of them still out there.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...27463dd52.jpeghttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9da551d47.jpeg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47b0ddce7.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...267d7b23f.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3e40c76c0.jpeg

SirMike1983 06-14-24 09:47 PM

You have an April 1974 frame. The N at the start indicates Nottingham factory. The E indicates produced in April. The 4 indicates 1974.

See Kurt's helpful website on the standard serial system:

https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

Nice find.

almico8 06-14-24 10:02 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 23268511)
You have an April 1974 frame. The N at the start indicates Nottingham factory. The E indicates produced in April. The 4 indicates 1974.

See Kurt's helpful website on the standard serial system:

https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

Nice find.

Another nice rabbit hole I find myself in! Love it. Thanks!!

Found a period owners manual and Raleigh rubber block pedals. Rod brake blocks ordered too.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...125fc00ee.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...588731a09.jpeg

almico8 06-15-24 12:00 PM

Wouldn't you know it, I was scanning the universe for a proper pump and found another '74. This on is a 3-speed in superbe condition with a pump...same $$$. I might have to go get it.

And it comes with the original manual, and the tool "kit", and the pedals I just bought. Just goes to show you, DO NOT do today, what should be put off till tomorrow.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab4140310a.png

Sedgemop 06-15-24 01:16 PM


Originally Posted by 52telecaster (Post 23264338)
I haven't been on in a while but reading this thread is the best. Done a small amount of commuting. When I don't need to tow a trailer the aw hub is a common mode for me. Also my girlfriend and I like to explore new cities by bike on our camping trips. The aw is great for that too. My particular frameset is a cycle gitane tour de France. I love the feel of this bike!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...31110a3cc8.jpg
French fit!

Great to see this frame reborn.

SirMike1983 06-15-24 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by almico8 (Post 23268862)
Wouldn't you know it, I was scanning the universe for a proper pump and found another '74. This on is a 3-speed in superbe condition with a pump...same $$$. I might have to go get it.

And it comes with the original manual, and the tool "kit", and the pedals I just bought. Just goes to show you, DO NOT do today, what should be put off till tomorrow.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab4140310a.png

Yours was the better buy, having the white tail and 5 speed with good bell crank. The first gen 5 speed hub is highly sought after. $150 for that other one also is pretty good. I paid $125 for my 1978 in early 2004, back when money was more expensive to use. You're on a hot streak.

almico8 06-15-24 02:52 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 23268933)
Yours was the better buy, having the white tail and 5 speed with good bell crank.

We spoke too soon on the bell crank.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa45b684a.jpeg


There are still threads on the cable side. I could drill and tap or braze.

bluesteak 06-16-24 03:04 PM


Originally Posted by almico8 (Post 23268971)
We spoke too soon on the bell crank.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa45b684a.jpeg


There are still threads on the cable side. I could drill and tap or braze.

Sorry to see your bellcrank is broken. It looks like a tough repair.

I have a question about the original photo of the bell crank. The photo shows a cone locknut being used instead of a standard axle nut which doesnít seem right to me. I havenít ever actually installed an S5. Could someone comment on the correct setup. Is it likely that improper install of the bellcrank led to the failure of the shift linkage.

almico8 06-16-24 05:42 PM

This is what I have of the S5 hub...I think.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...242dca29a4.jpg

capnjonny 06-16-24 07:54 PM

Just another Schwinn Breeze

I just can't get away from 3 speeds these days.
This Schwinn breeze showed up at the Bike Exchange with rotten tires and no 3 speed shifter or cable and I just had to take it home and clean it up.

It has a few chips and scratcheds but the paint still looks pretty good. I wiped off the Schwinn Breeze logo on the chain guard. It must have been painted on with white wash because just wiping a rag over it errased the paint completely. Oh Well.

We have lots of 3 speed stuff at the shop and I was able to find a new looking shifter and cable which I put a white cover on to match the white brake cables. Even found a set of new looking Schwinn white grips.

I put a nice comfy saddle on it to replace the ruined Schwinn unit and some nice flat pedals. The original pedals were fine, I just like these platforms. I think they give it an updated look.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...578894d518.jpg

Ged117 06-17-24 08:22 AM

A strange request, but would someone be kind enough to measure the white tail on their Raleigh mudguard? How far up the curve does the white tail go? For future reference as I prep for paint.

Thanks.

bharrisonb 06-17-24 08:30 AM

9" from bottom of mudguard to top of the white tail ... on my Raleigh Sports (1971)...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9c05a790cd.jpg

Ged117 06-17-24 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by bharrisonb (Post 23270354)
9" from bottom of mudguard to top of the white tail ... on my Raleigh Sports (1971)...

Thank you kindly!

bharrisonb 06-17-24 10:24 AM

BTW, this is the reason I always keep a spare 13/32 nut in my toolkit ... after 53 years, this one finally stripped ... leaving the axel threads in perfect shape.

In diving they say "no o-ring, no dive" . On a Raleigh, "no thread on you 13/32, no ride" !

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7324c1804f.jpg
Inner threads stripped ... 53 year old original nut (chain side, rear).

almico8 06-18-24 06:38 AM

For my sad bell crank above, any reason I can't use the Shimano bell crank and just transplant the cable attachment?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b5c2ab7420.png

Cyclespanner 06-18-24 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 23270347)
A strange request, but would someone be kind enough to measure the white tail on their Raleigh mudguard? How far up the curve does the white tail go? For future reference as I prep for paint.

Thanks.

Not too long ago I posted on the forum the original UK Regulations regarding how to measure the 'white tail'.
This became a wartime requirement and wasn't de-regulated until 1957 or there about.
Though today it is a decorative element, it still retains it's original safety function.

John D 06-18-24 07:35 AM

Bell crank
 

Originally Posted by almico8 (Post 23271172)
For my sad bell crank above, any reason I can't use the Shimano bell crank and just transplant the cable attachment?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b5c2ab7420.png

The Shimano is a different thread, but you can trans plant that section from a drive side indicator chain.

tcs 06-18-24 08:04 AM

The Sturmey intelligentsia inform me that the Shimano 3/8x24 can be rethreaded to the S-A 13/32x24 axle thread. Apparently a common repair.

almico8 06-18-24 08:11 AM


Originally Posted by tcs (Post 23271264)
The Sturmey intelligentsia inform me that the Shimano 3/8x24 can be rethreaded to the S-A 13/32x24 axle thread. Apparently a common repair.

I saw a thread where someone converted an old S-A axle into a thread tap. I don't happen to have one of those. But... https://drillsandcutters.com/13-32-3...UaAsdjEALw_wcB

A 13/32x24 bottom tap is not crazy expensive.

My first choice is to try and drill/tap the broken cable connector. A #36 bit and 6-32 tap is easy. Let's see if that holds. I would maybe epoxy it in, or maybe silver solder. I ordered a 6-32 bottoming tap from Amazon for $2.23 including shipping. What?! https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America...8720251&sr=8-6

If that doesn't work (show up) I will try a 13/32x24 tap and use the entire Shimano bell crank.

If I can't get that to go, then I'll cannibalize the broke part from the Shimano bell crank and pin it into mine.

JohnDThompson 06-18-24 02:30 PM


Originally Posted by bharrisonb (Post 23270472)
BTW, this is the reason I always keep a spare 13/32 nut in my toolkit ... after 53 years, this one finally stripped ... leaving the axel threads in perfect shape.

In diving they say "no o-ring, no dive" . On a Raleigh, "no thread on you 13/32, no ride" !

If you need it, I have a good supply of SA rear axle nuts.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f786d932c3.jpg
They're all the windowed version, to allow visualization of the indicator rod, but you can saw that off for use on the other side, if it bothers you. That's what I did for this nut when the original stripped:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c57a2b5f85.jpg
PM if interested, and we can work something out.


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