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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

gster 01-11-20 03:06 AM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21279208)
Is it on a bike? and if so which one? I noticed Raleigh has a sale brochure for 1962

It's on a Rudge for sale on Ebay.

alexnagui 01-12-20 06:14 AM

The BSA Star Rider I posted here last summer came with a '62 AW hub. Here is a picture of it.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c458780f1.jpg

PeterLYoung 01-12-20 08:31 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21278811)
There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.

For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.

I don't remove the nut on the cotter pin until the pin is moving, just crack the nut to start with and rotate a small amount applying the press until the nut is down to the crank then repeat. Once the pin is completely loose remove the nut and press the cotter pin out. This way the pin is supported by the nut and does not bend. Has worked every time for me.

Dan Burkhart 01-12-20 08:35 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21278036)
Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv

Haha. I voted this helpful.:lol:

browngw 01-12-20 10:19 AM

Brampton Cog Change
 
Since completing round one with refurbishing the circa 1956 Royal Nord President and riding it a little, I think it is time to rethink the gearing. For the ups and downs of our little town a lower ratio would be appreciated. With the original 700 x 38C alloy wheels the whole range is higher than I need for this type of bike. The beautiful original chain ring is 46 tooth and the cog is an 18 tooth. I have changed SA cogs many times in the past but they were all the type that slip on and have the spring wire retainer. This one is threaded on and did not respond to my attempts to remove it. Afraid of harming this very special old bike and not sur of what I was doing I left it be. The Brampton hubs were supposedly made under licence to Sturmey Archer but appear different. Anyone had any experience doing this? Were older SA hubs threaded?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef957bc1be.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...576031786a.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0bed99247e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86f77d2d02.jpg
Comparison with SA Trigger
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35bfaad75d.jpg

nlerner 01-12-20 10:20 AM

I don't have any pics of an AMF Hercules that I fixed up for my brother, but I'm fairly sure the S-A AW hub was dated 62 13!

BigChief 01-12-20 12:59 PM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 21280918)
Since completing round one with refurbishing the circa 1956 Royal Nord President and riding it a little, I think it is time to rethink the gearing. For the ups and downs of our little town a lower ratio would be appreciated. With the original 700 x 38C alloy wheels the whole range is higher than I need for this type of bike. The beautiful original chain ring is 46 tooth and the cog is an 18 tooth. I have changed SA cogs many times in the past but they were all the type that slip on and have the spring wire retainer. This one is threaded on and did not respond to my attempts to remove it. Afraid of harming this very special old bike and not sur of what I was doing I left it be. The Brampton hubs were supposedly made under licence to Sturmey Archer but appear different. Anyone had any experience doing this? Were older SA hubs threaded?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef957bc1be.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...576031786a.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0bed99247e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86f77d2d02.jpg
Comparison with SA Trigger
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35bfaad75d.jpg

My 1951 Rudge had the threaded driver. I believe Sturmey archer started using the 3 splined driver in 52 or 53, but the Brampton version continued to use the threaded type. I swapped in a later 3 spline driver so I could adjust the overall gearing of my Rudge. I think...but don't know a SA splined driver might also work in the Brampton since it's a licensed copy. I, so far, haven't taken the cog off the old driver so the outer dust cover is still being held captive, but I had a spare to use. Here's pics of the original and my replacement.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f0a177f2c7.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef688536f6.jpg

jackbombay 01-12-20 01:29 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 21280919)
I don't have any pics of an AMF Hercules that I fixed up for my brother, but I'm fairly sure the S-A AW hub was dated 62 13!

13? Is that a typo or was it really stamped with 13 for the month?

nlerner 01-12-20 02:54 PM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21281147)
13? Is that a typo or was it really stamped with 13 for the month?

Not a typo on my part! Sturmey Archer, on the other hand, who knows?

arty dave 01-12-20 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21281130)
My 1951 Rudge had the threaded driver. I believe Sturmey archer started using the 3 splined driver in 52 or 53, but the Brampton version continued to use the threaded type. I swapped in a later 3 spline driver so I could adjust the overall gearing of my Rudge. I think...but don't know a SA splined driver might also work in the Brampton since it's a licensed copy. I, so far, haven't taken the cog off the old driver so the outer dust cover is still being held captive, but I had a spare to use. Here's pics of the original and my replacement.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f0a177f2c7.jpg

I did the same on an early 50's hub.
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub. I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.

BigChief 01-12-20 05:42 PM


Originally Posted by arty dave (Post 21281284)
I did the same on an early 50's hub.
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub. I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.

All these years of being an IG hub guy has left me without a chain whip tool. I put the unit in my parts stash and if I ever really need the dust cover I suppose I could try driving the cog off with a punch. One thing's for sure. I won't ever be using an 18T cog on that bike. With the heavy pre-high tensile frame, Brooks saddle,tool bag, pump, steel rims, Dyno hub and all the original sheet metal , it's too heavy for 48x18 gearing. At least for me it is.

jackbombay 01-12-20 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21281469)
All these years of being an IG hub guy has left me without a chain whip tool. I put the unit in my parts stash and if I ever really need the dust cover I suppose I could try driving the cog off with a punch. One thing's for sure. I won't ever be using an 18T cog on that bike. With the heavy pre-high tensile frame, Brooks saddle,tool bag, pump, steel rims, Dyno hub and all the original sheet metal , it's too heavy for 48x18 gearing. At least for me it is.

Clamp the gear in a bench vice then put a screwdriver through the slots in the driver and spin it off?

BigChief 01-13-20 05:53 AM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21281504)
Clamp the gear in a bench vice then put a screwdriver through the slots in the driver and spin it off?

That should work. I suppose it would be good to get it apart without breaking anything. I always save parts, but who would ever want a threaded driver and 18T cog? You never know. I had that NOS straight leg driver and dust cover in my parts bin for years and ended up needing them. Never thought I would.

bluesteak 01-13-20 06:24 AM

I went to my shop and counted 8 bikes or wheels with threaded drivers. I know that free wheels come with English, French, or Italian threads. Are threaded cogs all interchangeable?

PeterLYoung 01-13-20 07:30 AM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21282076)
I went to my shop and counted 8 bikes or wheels with threaded drivers. I know that free wheels come with English, French, or Italian threads. Are threaded cogs all interchangeable?

English & Italian Freewheels are interchangeable but French are not compatible with English or Italian.

cszipper 01-13-20 09:05 AM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21277775)
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?

I believe that 1961 was the last year for the screw in left-hand ball cup on Sturmey hubs. Perhaps there was a decrease in production while the factory retooled.

-Carl

clubman 01-13-20 09:08 PM


Originally Posted by cszipper (Post 21282240)
I believe that 1961 was the last year for the screw in left-hand ball cup on Sturmey hubs. Perhaps there was a decrease in production while the factory retooled.

-Carl

It was a turbulent time, the beginning of the Tube Investments takeovers triggered a lot of changes. Dunlop, Moulton, Sturmey, and European racing created a fast changing marketplace.

elcraft 01-13-20 11:16 PM

Threaded drivers on AW ( and it's clones) is right hand threaded, matching English Freewheel and Bottom Bracket threading.

JohnDThompson 01-14-20 08:55 AM


Originally Posted by arty dave (Post 21281284)
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub.

AFAIK, that's the only way to remove the cog from the driver. Sturmey-Archer actually recommended replacing the threaded drivers with splined drivers once the splined driver became available.


I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.
That's how I did it as well:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/threaded-driver-fix.jpg

Salubrious 01-14-20 12:26 PM


Originally Posted by PeterLYoung (Post 21280802)
I don't remove the nut on the cotter pin until the pin is moving, just crack the nut to start with and rotate a small amount applying the press until the nut is down to the crank then repeat. Once the pin is completely loose remove the nut and press the cotter pin out. This way the pin is supported by the nut and does not bend. Has worked every time for me.

And for me as well. I made that recommendation based on an already bent cotter pin.

thumpism 01-15-20 06:21 AM

Nice little bike. Between CL and antique shops a few like this have been available here lately.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...056302508.html

Womenís vintage 3 speed - $100 (Henrico)

https://images.craigslist.org/00707_...45_600x450.jpg

bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: Medium
wheel size: 26 in
Vintage all original but the tires are new
Cool vintage cruiser
3 speed everything works as It should

PeterLYoung 01-15-20 10:24 AM

Sunbeam W3 Wayfarer No S48571 1949/50
 
I have now rebuilt this Sunbeam Wayfarer about which I posted earlier, Rather than post whole write up here it can be seen at: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-part-2-a.html

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e2624666f4.jpg
Completed Bike

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c1438a14ca.jpg
Cockpit view.

arty dave 01-15-20 03:35 PM

Very nice rebuild, looks like it will be a satisfying ride. Favourite parts for me are the awesome flat north road bars, those cool centre-pull brakes - levers are nice too, and the saddle - I have one that is very similar (with 2 springs and not Terry's, can't remember the brand) that is very comfortable. It just needs a spiffy bell to complete

bluesteak 01-16-20 06:41 PM

1957 Hopper
 

Originally Posted by PeterLYoung (Post 21275514)
Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps

I have mostly given up on the ea1 rims. I scooped up a couple of 40 hole sun cr18 rims on eBay. Hopefully that was not a mistake. I picked up somewhere that 590ís are out of production.

I am unsure if the original bike had ea1 or ea3 wheels.

BigChief 01-17-20 04:18 AM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21287523)
I have mostly given up on the ea1 rims. I scooped up a couple of 40 hole sun cr18 rims on eBay. Hopefully that was not a mistake. I picked up somewhere that 590ís are out of production.

I am unsure if the original bike had ea1 or ea3 wheels.

I think 590 CR-18s are the best choice. The Sun Ringle website doesn't list 590s, so perhaps they are out of production. Harris Cyclery still has them for sale on their site, but it might be a good idea to pick up a couple 32H front rims while you can.


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