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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

hihik 06-17-21 04:51 AM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22105688)
That Phillips should clean right up

-Kurt

Iím wondering to what degree of disassembly should I take it - take everything off or clean it in place. The shifter doesnít work for sure but the rear hub has an access point for internal lubrication, maybe I donít have to take it apart completely to keep it going nice and smooth. Definitely need a new chainguard, grips and saddle. Obviously cables, housing, chain, tubes, rim tapeÖ What have I done??

cudak888 06-17-21 07:07 AM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22105792)
Iím wondering to what degree of disassembly should I take it - take everything off or clean it in place. The shifter doesnít work for sure but the rear hub has an access point for internal lubrication, maybe I donít have to take it apart completely to keep it going nice and smooth. Definitely need a new chainguard, grips and saddle. Obviously cables, housing, chain, tubes, rim tapeÖ What have I done??

You can do it multiple ways. It all depends how many tools you have; primarily a crank cotter remover.

I would suggest tearing apart the AW if it's being cantankerous. While they're pretty much bulletproof, they can rust or gunk up depending what's been put in them in the past (or not) and need a fair cleanup with either mineral spirits or Evaporust.

I like using slippery 00 grease (dark green) in them - the only grease that really works in an AW. Light green marine grease in the bearing races; it won't wash into the hub if the 00 grease gets onto it.

-Kurt

gster 06-17-21 02:51 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22105792)
Iím wondering to what degree of disassembly should I take it - take everything off or clean it in place. The shifter doesnít work for sure but the rear hub has an access point for internal lubrication, maybe I donít have to take it apart completely to keep it going nice and smooth. Definitely need a new chainguard, grips and saddle. Obviously cables, housing, chain, tubes, rim tapeÖ What have I done??

Yes, i would disassemble, clean and service.
The bottom bracket and headset bearings should be attended to.
The trick with these old bikes is never throw anything away until you're finished.
That rusty old axle nut is proprietary to Raleigh/Philips etc.
You can't go to the hardware store for a new one.

hihik 06-17-21 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22105897)
You can do it multiple ways. It all depends how many tools you have; primarily a crank cotter remover.

-Kurt

Donít have it Ö yet


Originally Posted by gster (Post 22106536)
Yes, i would disassemble, clean and service.

Yeah, I think so too, but I have to pace myself or I will get burnt out with this hobby. I do enjoy cleaning rusty parts so much. Very zen.

Funny - immediately after I posted here this showed up locally.

clubman 06-17-21 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22106660)
Funny - immediately after I posted here this showed up locally.

Any sensible C&Ver would buy that puppy. It gets you on a bike and an instant inventory of parts to disassemble and clean at your leisure. Tires and tubes, pads, the works.

Karma baby

cudak888 06-17-21 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22106660)
Funny - immediately after I posted here this showed up locally.

Buy the C-list bike, give the one you're getting a cosmetic clean and adjust it up until it rides nice, then flip it to cover the cost of the nice one. You'll be glad you did.

-Kurt

dedhed 06-17-21 06:15 PM

This has been up a few days.
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...328961494.html

hihik 06-17-21 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 22106701)
Any sensible C&Ver would buy that puppy.


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22106746)
Buy the C-list bike

-Kurt

If I bring another bike home Iím afraid I will be declared mentally unfit by my wife :D I donít really need another bike, I donít even want one at this point. I have to finish restoring the mountain bike I got. Then build up the touring rig on the base of the Super Mirage. I got the Phillips because it was free. Iím taking it slow with this one!

clubman 06-17-21 07:38 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22106767)
I I’m taking it slow with this one!

Uh-huh, yeah, sure. We understand, we've been there.:innocent:

clubman 06-17-21 07:43 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22106767)
I donít really need another bike, I donít even want one at this point.!

Oh my. It's worse than we thought. Anyone near hihik? Needs therapeutic barley. :thumb:

gster 06-17-21 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22106767)
If I bring another bike home Iím afraid I will be declared mentally unfit by my wife :D I donít really need another bike, I donít even want one at this point. I have to finish restoring the mountain bike I got. Then build up the touring rig on the base of the Super Mirage. I got the Phillips because it was free. Iím taking it slow with this one!

The first one's always free.
That's how they hook you.

thumpism 06-18-21 06:52 PM

From the original owner.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...92151318563286

https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...b4&oe=60D28EC3

cudak888 06-18-21 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 22106885)
The first one's always free.
That's how they hook you.

That's how I got into this hobby.

-Kurt

gster 06-18-21 08:01 PM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22108326)
That's how I got into this hobby.

-Kurt

Me 2

gster 06-20-21 07:04 AM

Viking Frame
I stopped in to see George of Parts Unknown yesterday.
He had an interesting frame that had just come in.
A Viking
This is a stock photo
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8410882b37.jpg
I was considering it for a 3 speed build but on examination the front forks were badly bent (sideways).
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a1df58d745.jpg
The head badge dates it from 1950 to 1955
I'm sure they could be repaired but not by me.
http://classicvikingcycles.com/photo...alley-sn-v745/
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6118764413.jpg
It may have been one of these as it had a headlamp mount on the fork and evidence of a derailleur hanger that had been cut off.
From the 1960 catalogue
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c74bae6d26.png
This odd ball with a convertible top bar.....

RustyJames 06-20-21 10:29 PM


Originally Posted by hihik (Post 22106660)
Funny - immediately after I posted here this showed up locally.

They take cryptocurrency so go for it!

smurfy 06-21-21 04:01 PM

Unfortunately I had to postpone and maybe even abandon my Raleigh project. The fork I already had to scrap since the cone and stem is hopelessly stuck inside the steerer and ended up deforming it (if it wasn't like that already). Seatpost is still stuck inside seat tube and it won't budge. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it at this point. I wish I was retired so I can devote more time to it but that's simply not available at this time. Maybe find a good home for it. Stay tuned!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1d45ebabc1.jpg

Salubrious 06-21-21 04:13 PM


Originally Posted by smurfy (Post 22111848)
Unfortunately I had to postpone and maybe even abandon my Raleigh project. The fork I already had to scrap since the cone and stem is hopelessly stuck inside the steerer and ended up deforming it (if it wasn't like that already). Seatpost is still stuck inside seat tube and it won't budge. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it at this point. I wish I was retired so I can devote more time to it but that's simply not available at this time. Maybe find a good home for it. Stay tuned!

You need some Kroil. Take it someplace where you don't have to worry about the odor. Let it dribble into the tubing around the seatpost and also the stem. Then let it sit a couple days and then see if that stuff is still stuck. I once got a fairly nice bike (Reynolds tubing) that had a stuck seatpost that three different shops gave up on- and was the reason I got it. With Kroil I had that seatpost out in five minutes. kanolabs.com is the link. You used to be able to order off their website but I think that's changed.

cudak888 06-21-21 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by smurfy (Post 22111848)
Unfortunately I had to postpone and maybe even abandon my Raleigh project. The fork I already had to scrap since the cone and stem is hopelessly stuck inside the steerer and ended up deforming it (if it wasn't like that already). Seatpost is still stuck inside seat tube and it won't budge. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it at this point. I wish I was retired so I can devote more time to it but that's simply not available at this time. Maybe find a good home for it. Stay tuned!

Stupid question: In removing the seatpost, have you been leveraging it with a saddle installed on it? I only ask as the initial photo showed it without one.

It may still be possible to get that wedge out, but given the steerer bulging, it's probably best to dig up another fork. They're not uncommon, but you may be better off if you find another complete Sports. I don't recall; did yours come with a workable wheelset?

-Kurt

erileykc 06-22-21 07:46 AM

SA AW indicator pin lengths ?
 
Thanks to forum member Thumpism I have a replacement index pin for my 79 Tourist Sturmey AW hub but it is significantly longer than the original. As I cast about for a shorter version is there a model descriptor of pin types better than simply looking for it by length that I can use to zero in on the correct indicator pin?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5c844863ca.jpg

nlerner 06-22-21 07:58 AM

^ The important part to keep the same length is that solid barrel on the left. The little chain length doesn’t matter as you’ll just adjust the shift cable or the placement of the fulcrum sleeve to compensate. Looks like the replacement you have will work.

erileykc 06-22-21 08:13 AM

No the length over all matters in this case as I don't have enough adjustment range with the added length no matter how much I move the shifter or the cable mount. Just need the shorter indicator pin.



Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 22112560)
^ The important part to keep the same length is that solid barrel on the left. The little chain length doesnít matter as youíll just adjust the shift cable or the placement of the fulcrum sleeve to compensate. Looks like the replacement you have will work.


Salubrious 06-22-21 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by erileykc (Post 22112570)
No the length over all matters in this case as I don't have enough adjustment range with the added length no matter how much I move the shifter or the cable mount. Just need the shorter indicator pin.

You don't move the shifter normally. But the position of the fulcrum clip is one adjustment and the location of the pulley is the other. Between the two the new toggle chain is no worries.

erileykc 06-22-21 12:28 PM

Ah ha! Hadn't thought to move the pulley - thanks.


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 22112793)
You don't move the shifter normally. But the position of the fulcrum clip is one adjustment and the location of the pulley is the other. Between the two the new toggle chain is no worries.


clubman 06-22-21 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 22109765)
Viking Frame
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8410882b37.jpg
I was considering it for a 3 speed build but on examination the front forks were badly bent (sideways).

..

I'd buy that and pay to get it fixed. If it were 4 cm's smaller that is.


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