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Originally Posted by ksryder
(Post 22200211)
Sometimes the non-cycling world attempts to appropriate cycling with hilarious results. To wit, a $28,900 Louis Vuitton single speed bike that is probably less capable than anything from State:
https://theradavist.com/2021/08/__tr...Bkuqtqbtl52A8U |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 22200204)
Interesting experience on today's ride. Recall I still run Ultegra 6700 on my bikes. Also recall that the exposed parts of the shifters are notorious for rusting, and there is a bit of rust on mine.
When I started the ride, my inner paddle (to shift to a smaller cog in back) would sometimes just move but not shift, and sometimes would "catch" and shift properly. Oh crap. The outer shifter would shift crisply to the bigger cogs nice and crisply. So I am pretty sure the problem is NOT a fraying cable or a cable problem at all, but something in the shifter mechanism that is not engaging properly. I am not enough of an expert on the shifter innards/mechanism to make a definite diagnosis. Luckily, as the ride progressed, the weak "catch" or inability to shift at all became less frequent, and within 15 minutes it was working fine. My suspicion is that whatever ratchet or other gizmo inside the shifter may have gotten stuck due to rust and lack of use (this is my first ride on the bike in 2 weeks), but I am torn whether to just leave it alone versus spray a bunch of WD40 and/or lube up into the mechanism to help clear out whatever the cause was. Suggestions??? |
I like the 11t cog on downhills where I want to pedal between curves but don't want to spin madly. I feel more stable pushing between 70 and 80 rpm in that situation than 95+. There's also the 'starting/stopping of legs that just finished a climb and don't feel like going from 0-90rpm suddenly.
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200215)
Some of us are too fat for 25s.
Both big cogs and tires. |
Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200216)
I saw that. How many total miles do we think the entire production will be ridden in the next decade? Over/ under at ten?
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200112)
Campy used to make a 13-29. I could use that with a standard crank, or a TT crank. Back when I was in my 30s I had 52/42 crank and 7 speed with a 28 big cog. Climbed everything with that,, couldn't do it now, no way. When I bought the Seven in 2012 it had 52/39 and 12-25. Club rides with some climbing were ok, but long days in the mountains, no chance. With the 34x29 low gear I can will myself up everything around here but when I'm climbing with someone who has a 32 in the back, I can tell they are having an easier time. My faster friends don't use anything that low but I'm not around when they are climbing, unless they drop back to check on me. |
Originally Posted by ksryder
(Post 22200228)
On the Louis Vuitton website one of the pictures has a model sitting at a cafe in Paris reading a book that just says "Paris" on the front cover just in case we didn't all figure out that she was in Paris. PARIS!
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Just talked to my ex. Her Engin is not built up because the builder cannot get parts. IIRC, she's going with the SRAM wireless 1x.
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Originally Posted by ksryder
(Post 22200228)
On the Louis Vuitton website one of the pictures has a model sitting at a cafe in Paris reading a book that just says "Paris" on the front cover just in case we didn't all figure out that she was in Paris. PARIS!
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 22200203)
I'm too wimpy to spin at 90 unless it's low power and generally favor a higher cadence. I do occasionally try to shift to a non-existent 11t, but that's usually not until I'm pushing 40mph or higher. At that point, I'll pedal up to 120rpm or so and just let gravity embrace my fatness thereafter.
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Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 22200204)
Interesting experience on today's ride. Recall I still run Ultegra 6700 on my bikes. Also recall that the exposed parts of the shifters are notorious for rusting, and there is a bit of rust on mine.
When I started the ride, my inner paddle (to shift to a smaller cog in back) would sometimes just move but not shift, and sometimes would "catch" and shift properly. Oh crap. The outer shifter would shift crisply to the bigger cogs nice and crisply. So I am pretty sure the problem is NOT a fraying cable or a cable problem at all, but something in the shifter mechanism that is not engaging properly. I am not enough of an expert on the shifter innards/mechanism to make a definite diagnosis. Luckily, as the ride progressed, the weak "catch" or inability to shift at all became less frequent, and within 15 minutes it was working fine. My suspicion is that whatever ratchet or other gizmo inside the shifter may have gotten stuck due to rust and lack of use (this is my first ride on the bike in 2 weeks), but I am torn whether to just leave it alone versus spray a bunch of WD40 and/or lube up into the mechanism to help clear out whatever the cause was. Suggestions??? I turn the bike upside down and direct the spray into the shifter close to the handle bar. |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 22200204)
Interesting experience on today's ride. Recall I still run Ultegra 6700 on my bikes. Also recall that the exposed parts of the shifters are notorious for rusting, and there is a bit of rust on mine.
When I started the ride, my inner paddle (to shift to a smaller cog in back) would sometimes just move but not shift, and sometimes would "catch" and shift properly. Oh crap. The outer shifter would shift crisply to the bigger cogs nice and crisply. So I am pretty sure the problem is NOT a fraying cable or a cable problem at all, but something in the shifter mechanism that is not engaging properly. I am not enough of an expert on the shifter innards/mechanism to make a definite diagnosis. Luckily, as the ride progressed, the weak "catch" or inability to shift at all became less frequent, and within 15 minutes it was working fine. My suspicion is that whatever ratchet or other gizmo inside the shifter may have gotten stuck due to rust and lack of use (this is my first ride on the bike in 2 weeks), but I am torn whether to just leave it alone versus spray a bunch of WD40 and/or lube up into the mechanism to help clear out whatever the cause was. Suggestions??? |
Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200215)
Some of us are too fat for 25s.
Both big cogs and tires. |
Originally Posted by phrantic09
(Post 22200281)
I'd recommend Di2 as a pretty permanent solution
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Originally Posted by ksryder
(Post 22200211)
Sometimes the non-cycling world attempts to appropriate cycling with hilarious results. To wit, a $28,900 Louis Vuitton single speed bike that is probably less capable than anything from State:
https://theradavist.com/2021/08/__tr...Bkuqtqbtl52A8U |
Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200112)
The only 12-up I'm aware of from Shimano is the 12-25 Velo Vol uses, and 25 is too small; it'd force me to shift the front more often and kill the point of the exercise. Back in the 10sp days I ran the crap out of the 12-27, which was fantastic. With 11-sp all the wheels went to 11-28, which was... ok. The fact that every manufacturer (of groupsets) is using the extra cogs for very wide-range cassettes with gaps no smaller than before, and with far fewer options than before drives me up the wall. New Ultegra will be 11-30 an 11-34 only. DA will have those and an 11-28 available. That's it.
As for the Recon/ Edco cassettes, I've heard mixed reviews of their quality, and some of them appear to have bizzarro-bonkers ratios. And I've made peace with the cassettes I have no for my fitness and terrain, using the small ring solely for climbing the stupid hill I live on and gravel climbs. However, the 11t is a waste, and the 12t is meh. AG's 11, 12, and 13s are unused, but the 28t is, again, too small for her too. Campy used to make a 13-29. I could use that with a standard crank, or a TT crank. |
Originally Posted by ksryder
(Post 22200211)
Sometimes the non-cycling world attempts to appropriate cycling with hilarious results. To wit, a $28,900 Louis Vuitton single speed bike that is probably less capable than anything from State:
https://theradavist.com/2021/08/__tr...Bkuqtqbtl52A8U |
Originally Posted by phrantic09
(Post 22200275)
My best power numbers are in that range. Despite being spindly, I have strong legs from all of the heavy weights I guess. When I start spinning over 100 I get lactic acid build up fast. I'm odd though, I can mash at 55 RPM and 400W for 4-5 minutes but couldn't hold that same wattage seated at 100 RPM. One of our bigger climbs here is 2.3 miles and ~1000 feet, I stand almost the entire time it takes to climb it.
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Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 22200290)
It’s a good suggestion but the Habanero has external cables and setting up Di2 that way is fugly. I do plan to get a brand new full groupset next year, and my hope is the next-generation Shimano 12 speed Di2 will be available and also semi-wireless. That fits right into my plan. However I suspect delays and/or supply problems may be an issue.
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200321)
Rim brake sets will be fully wired.
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
(Post 22200321)
Rim brake sets will be fully wired.
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We lost power about 20 minutes ago. Good thing it’s only 91F out. I am in the basement where it’s nice and cool.
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Weather forecast said 20% of rain today. We ended up with a downpour and flooding on the roads. :rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 22200367)
Weather forecast said 20% of rain today. We ended up with a downpour and flooding on the roads. :rolleyes:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1e231d420c.jpg |
Lame posts lose out.
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