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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

gster 03-07-19 09:15 AM

With all this talk of British motorbikes/bicycles, of which I've had/have several,
I've never owned a British car...
The closest I came was a German built Merkur yeras ago which went like stink
until the turbo blew...
I literally left it at the side of the road, told my mechanic it was his if he picked
it up and, thankfully never saw it again.
I got a ride back to the city and went to a sketchy used car lot and bought
a very nice 1991 BMW 318is.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c87ea1c75d.jpg
I killed this one as well....

gster 03-07-19 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 20826838)


Nice looking! Did the Canadian models all come with painted mudguards? I am in talks with someone close who has a Canadian model with the painted instead of chrome MGs.

I don't know the answer..
These were also sold here under the Supercycle brand.
Most of which, were coffee coloured.
Her's one with chromed MG's
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bfd9b37021.jpg
Here's a green one
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e6416cc7f7.jpg

carfreefamily 03-07-19 09:30 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20826318)
A knarp could be used in place of the ball end or the original ball removed and silver soldered onto the new cable.

My '52 Raleigh came with knarps in place. I had never seen the like before, nor had I ever heard of a knarp. I am moving forward under the assumption that a knarp is a good choice for solving the problem.

Ged117 03-07-19 10:34 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20826827)
I generally replace the old style calipers with the "new" versions so that I can run regular brake cables.
I have a couple of bikes with the original old style but have found NOS cables almost impossible to find and
also very expensive if found.
Also, as stated, so many different lengths..
I bought a NOS shifter cable at a swap meet.
It's too short for anything other that a chopper style bike.
Also, as stated earlier, keep the original cable housings and
replace the cable.
The original casings curve and "hug" the frame in a more elegant manner.
Here's an example of a cable that is probably too short, not to mention the messes up routing...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bf669d5a26.jpg
I tend to cut my cables a bit longer than stock and give them a nice sweep around the bars..

I'll see what happens with the derelict Sports. Perhaps I'll use the newer calipers on my machine so that I can replace the cables easily. I suppose that is a good idea if I continue with my plan to use the Superbe as a sunny day work commuter once completed. It will be fun and gratifying to have the bike returned to serving its original purpose after so many decades.

gster 03-07-19 10:55 AM


Originally Posted by carfreefamily (Post 20826877)
My '52 Raleigh came with knarps in place. I had never seen the like before, nor had I ever heard of a knarp. I am moving forward under the assumption that a knarp is a good choice for solving the problem.

Some have gone overboard and been forced to join
"Knarpaholics Annonymous"....

BigChief 03-07-19 01:17 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20826827)
I generally replace the old style calipers with the "new" versions so that I can run regular brake cables.
I have a couple of bikes with the original old style but have found NOS cables almost impossible to find and
also very expensive if found.
Also, as stated, so many different lengths..
I bought a NOS shifter cable at a swap meet.
It's too short for anything other that a chopper style bike.
Also, as stated earlier, keep the original cable housings and
replace the cable.
The original casings curve and "hug" the frame in a more elegant manner.
Here's an example of a cable that is probably too short, not to mention the messes up routing...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bf669d5a26.jpg
I tend to cut my cables a bit longer than stock and give them a nice sweep around the bars..
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...97bb1a2d5d.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f99a292fa.jpg

I've been routing the brake cables English style (right front) on my roadsters because I like the way the cables make a clean, symmetrical cross in front of the handlebar. I think the calipers were designed with the cable connection on the left for this reason. Right rear cable routing looks awkward to me and I'm used to right/front braking on my DL-1 anyway.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca83d7b270.jpg

gster 03-07-19 02:33 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20827307)
I've been routing the brake cables English style (right front) on my roadsters because I like the way the cables make a clean, symmetrical cross in front of the handlebar. I think the calipers were designed with the cable connection on the left for this reason. Right rear cable routing looks awkward to me and I'm used to right/front braking on my DL-1 anyway.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca83d7b270.jpg

I may try that configuration on my next build.
On the motorbikes your front brake is on the right.

clubman 03-07-19 04:11 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20826873)
I don't know the answer..
These were also sold here under the Supercycle brand.
Most of which, were coffee coloured.
Her's one with chromed MG's
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bfd9b37021.jpg
Here's a green one
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e6416cc7f7.jpg

The rebrands usually got the chrome mudguards so it was an easy colour match, like the Sports models. I've seen the SuperCycle Twenty's in coffee, gold and bronze green as well but I think it had green mudguards. Someone else sold a rebranded Twenty in Canada but it escapes me, maybe a Glider.

gster 03-07-19 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 20827658)
The rebrands usually got the chrome mudguards so it was an easy colour match, like the Sports models. I've seen the SuperCycle Twenty's in coffee, gold and bronze green as well but I think it had green mudguards. Someone else sold a rebranded Twenty in Canada but it escapes me, maybe a Glider.

Here's an Eatons Road King folder.
I can't tell if it's a Raleigh or not
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a6871c531f.jpg

thumpism 03-07-19 08:31 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20827463)
I may try that configuration on my next build.
On the motorbikes your front brake is on the right.

Those of the hard core keep it edgy; motorcycle front brake on the right, bicycle front brake on the left.

paulb_in_bkln 03-07-19 08:51 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20827019)
Some have gone overboard and been forced to join
"Knarpaholics Annonymous"....

Knarpahol. Bad news.

clubman 03-07-19 08:58 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20827680)
Here's an Eatons Road King folder.
I can't tell if it's a Raleigh or not

Looks French if I had to guess, not a Raleigh. Shimano drivetrain may say otherwise. Surprising number of eastern European folders in Toronto, which is maybe not too surprising given the demographics. Lots of small Polish bikes back in the day.

BigChief 03-08-19 05:40 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 20828026)
Looks French if I had to guess, not a Raleigh. Shimano drivetrain may say otherwise. Surprising number of eastern European folders in Toronto, which is maybe not too surprising given the demographics. Lots of small Polish bikes back in the day.

There's no truss supporting the joint on the main tube...daring, those French.

gster 03-08-19 08:21 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20828311)
There's no truss supporting the joint on the main tube...daring, those French.

Yes, when Eatons switched their house brand from Glider to Road King Raleigh was no longer the supplier.
Around 1974/75.

Ged117 03-09-19 09:57 AM

Parts
 
Hi fellows. The derelict fell through. It is slim pickings around here for Raleigh models (frankly any vintage bicycles of interest). I am in need of the clips for the chain guard since the bike came with the original guard unattached. As well as some newer brake specimens to make it road ready. Is there an online place where I could find these sort of items? There's another derelict locked up downtown that has sat for ages...but it is u-locked.

paulb_in_bkln 03-09-19 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 20830050)
There's another derelict locked up downtown that has sat for ages...but it is u-locked.

It's locked through the rear wheel, so you can't even get that? Pah. There's a fine rotting target for wheel confiscation a few blocks from where I live but it's directly outside the heavily patrolled Long Island Railroad terminal so I don't dare.

BigChief 03-09-19 04:25 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 20830050)
Hi fellows. The derelict fell through. It is slim pickings around here for Raleigh models (frankly any vintage bicycles of interest). I am in need of the clips for the chain guard since the bike came with the original guard unattached. As well as some newer brake specimens to make it road ready. Is there an online place where I could find these sort of items? There's another derelict locked up downtown that has sat for ages...but it is u-locked.

If you only need the later style pinch bolt calipers and clips for the earlier style 2 point chainguard, it might be more economical to buy parts on eBay rather than a whole parts bike. Most any parts bike worth salvaging parts from will cost at least 75 dollars and at that, it would have to be an older one that has the 2 point chainguard. Took a quick look at eBay...here's some pinch bolt calipers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ral...frcectupt=true

paulb_in_bkln 03-09-19 10:41 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20830535)
Most any parts bike worth salvaging parts from will cost at least 75 dollars and at that, it would have to be an older one that has the 2 point chainguard. Took a quick look at eBay...here's some pinch bolt calipers.

Amen. I can save the hubs from the derelict bikes I find sometimes, but indicators, fulcrum clips, pulleys, other bits are rusted no-hopers.

Road Fan 03-10-19 05:23 AM

Other threads here have discussed how good Everust is at removing rust with a soak. Can this help with the small parts you mention?

Road Fan 03-10-19 06:41 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20823445)
I've never raced anything, but I'm still into motorcycles. Old Brits of course. I still have one left

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dcac9771d9.jpg

I've always wanted a Norton, still do! Last motorcycle I had, however, was a 1981 Suzuki GS650G, with disc brakes and shaft drive.

BigChief 03-10-19 09:38 AM


Originally Posted by Road Fan (Post 20831137)
Other threads here have discussed how good Everust is at removing rust with a soak. Can this help with the small parts you mention?

I've been using Evapo-Rust for small parts. It's much faster than vinegar, but not as nasty as working with OA. Works great on lightly rusted chrome. If you keep it waxed, the chrome will look great for years. Small exterior parts with that dull gray finish are more of a problem because the rust totally destroys the protective finish and will rust again quickly.

BigChief 03-10-19 10:11 AM


Originally Posted by Road Fan (Post 20831177)
I've always wanted a Norton, still do! Last motorcycle I had, however, was a 1981 Suzuki GS650G, with disc brakes and shaft drive.

Nortons are back. Crazy expensive though. I checked out the new Bonneville. They did a great job with the styling, but the thing is huge and HEAVY. Big radiator hanging on the front. 1200cc. All kinds of silly gagets, but at least it doesn't look like the Bat Cycle with a rear tire that looks like it came off a garbage truck. Keep in mind, this is coming from a guy that rides around on 3 speed bicycles. But now, there is a new bike on the market that I'm actually excited about. For years they have been making Royal Enfield bikes in India. Pretty much the old single cylinder Comet. Nice bike, but I need a bit more swat than a Comet. So they are a well established manufacturer with experience. They just introduced their new Interceptor. Beautiful bike! A classic 650cc air cooled vertical twin roadster. Simple, clean design, rather lightweight. I'm going to find a dealer and give it a try.

oldveloman 03-11-19 04:09 AM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 20828000)
Those of the hard core keep it edgy; motorcycle front brake on the right, bicycle front brake on the left.

My rod-braked '54 BSA has the front brake on the right. I prefer this too, so I have that setup on my other bicycles as well.
No need to think twice when riding the motorbike... :lol:

Peter

BigChief 03-11-19 07:07 AM


Originally Posted by oldveloman (Post 20832527)
My rod-braked '54 BSA has the front brake on the right. I prefer this too, so I have that setup on my other bicycles as well.
No need to think twice when riding the motorbike... :lol:

Peter

I used modern Tektro brake calipers on my Rudge scorcher. Those have the cable connections on the right side, so I have the cables routed right/rear to keep the neater looking cross out front.

thumpism 03-11-19 06:42 PM

This is what you need to resolve the dilemma. Just get two of these, one for the right side and one for the left and run both brakes from each. Ta da!!!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...69153bc401.jpg

paulb_in_bkln 03-11-19 07:39 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 20833766)
This is what you need to resolve the dilemma. Just get two of these, one for the right side and one for the left and run both brakes from each. Ta da!!!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...69153bc401.jpg

It is cool those exist for riders who have the use of one arm. And possibly for a tandem fitted with rim and hub brake at rear?

thumpism 03-11-19 07:45 PM

That one is at the co-op and I did not buy it. Yet.

Ged117 03-12-19 09:10 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20830535)
If you only need the later style pinch bolt calipers and clips for the earlier style 2 point chainguard, it might be more economical to buy parts on eBay rather than a whole parts bike. Most any parts bike worth salvaging parts from will cost at least 75 dollars and at that, it would have to be an older one that has the 2 point chainguard. Took a quick look at eBay...here's some pinch bolt calipers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ral...frcectupt=true

Thanks for the link and info. The issue with eBay is shipping costs to Canada. That comes out to $60 USD, which is even more in CAD. A forum member has generously offered to help me find the needed parts in a bigger city, so I'd just like to remark again on just how positive this thread experience (and the C&V forum generally) has been for myself and others I think too.

carfreefamily 03-12-19 10:06 PM

Removing Raleigh Lock Cylinder?

While I'm waiting for better weather to finish my paint touch-up on my '52 Raleigh, I've been trying to get the lock cylinder out of my fork to find the key code. (It's not on the face of the lock the way it is in some photos, so I assume it is on the body of the cylinder.

I can't get the plug out opposite the lock, even by heating the fork in the oven and putting ice in the plug, but I was, with great patience and a series of improvised tools, able to remove the screw from the back of the lock by working through the bottom of the fork and the holes for the brake bolt.

So now that screw is out.

I also found it very easy to pick the lock, and I was able to raise the pin. (I had a moment of panic when it locked in the upright position, but I was able to pick it again, and I now have it in the middle position, ready to lower all the way if I have to give up.)

But, I can't get the lock cylinder to come out, and I can't find any instructions. There's a thread about removing the lock from a Rudge that mentions turning the pin to remove it, but the pin doesn't seem to want to turn. I know better than to try to force anything when I don't have a clear set of instructions.

Does anyone know where I should go from here to get the lock barrel out and find the key number?

arty dave 03-13-19 04:04 PM


Originally Posted by carfreefamily (Post 20835565)
Removing Raleigh Lock Cylinder?

While I'm waiting for better weather to finish my paint touch-up on my '52 Raleigh, I've been trying to get the lock cylinder out of my fork to find the key code. (It's not on the face of the lock the way it is in some photos, so I assume it is on the body of the cylinder.

I can't get the plug out opposite the lock, even by heating the fork in the oven and putting ice in the plug, but I was, with great patience and a series of improvised tools, able to remove the screw from the back of the lock by working through the bottom of the fork and the holes for the brake bolt.

So now that screw is out.

I also found it very easy to pick the lock, and I was able to raise the pin. (I had a moment of panic when it locked in the upright position, but I was able to pick it again, and I now have it in the middle position, ready to lower all the way if I have to give up.)

But, I can't get the lock cylinder to come out, and I can't find any instructions. There's a thread about removing the lock from a Rudge that mentions turning the pin to remove it, but the pin doesn't seem to want to turn. I know better than to try to force anything when I don't have a clear set of instructions.

Does anyone know where I should go from here to get the lock barrel out and find the key number?

Here is a link to an image that might help... http://oldroads.com/mn0.jpg
From memory when I removed the lock from my DL-1 fork, once I removed the retaining screw, the barrel was just friction fitted into the crown. I'm fairly sure I remember prying it out gently with a screwdriver. I used some online instructions, I'll see if I've still got them when I get home from work


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