No, we don't want to down that slippery slope...sorry:eek:
I've been using marine grease because I've found rust inside wheel bearings while working on old neglected bikes. Marine grease supposedly had additives that protect against moisture. I have no idea of how effective it is at this. I take them at their word.

Will do sir, ill let ya know the outcome.

I think you've got a rare bike. I've found no reference to a Dunelt 5 speed.
The decals are original so it hasn't been modified.
I'm jealous...

Those gouges will cause a stress point weaken starting at the void gouged in the tube to crack eventually. The good thing is you will feel it weaken before a catastrophic failure occurs. You have options of welding the bigger voids up that will maybe solve the problem although the structural integrity of the solid tube will never be the same.

If you are a easy rider you may never have a problem doing nothing to address the cuts. I know you really want to polish that rust off there.

Correct - one of the few places you can grease an old-type Sturmey internal gear hub is at the bearings and in the bearing dust caps. The grease acts as a seal to keep oil in and to reduce oil leakage all over the rear wheel. You want oil in the transmission portion of the hub, grease in the outer bearings and dust caps. Even with good grease seals, it may leak a little oil. Just wipe it up is all.

The hub bearings are not picky about grease for the most part. A decent lithium (garage/home) grease will work. Garage/home synthetics work as well. I use a green synthetic by Lucas Oil, but used regular lithium grease as well for years. Avoid a "sticky" grease that actually increases resistance is all.

It's possible to run the hubs entirely without bearing grease, and just to keep oiling them. The bearings effectively run on just the oil, and this is fine. But it is very messy, and you'll go through more oil.

Who is this fella?
 

Who is this guy stamped on the left crank arm I on a bike assume is a Phillips But I found the same stamping on the Dunelt handlbar clamp.
Is this Phillips himself or is it Dunelt?

Attachment 582779

I must be some kinda stupid cheit.

I see an "R" on the Dunelt neck.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...1&disp=safe&zw

Dunelt was bought out by Raleigh around 1950. This bike is badged Dunelt but was built by Raleigh in Nottingham. The little man is Sir Walter Raleigh.
Raleigh bough out a lot of their competition and continued making bikes with their badges. Phillips was later, around 1960. That's why you'll hear people talk about things like a
pre Raleigh Phillips. Meaning a Phillips made at the Birmingham factory before the Raleigh buy out.

Super Superbes/ A Terrific Trio
 

A collection of three
Front to back
English built 1972
Canadian built 1976
English modified 1961
Attachment 582782

Attachment 582783

Gee @gster

You put the really interesting one in the back! I want to find one of those 61 Raleighs with the white striping and headbadge.

Now that I have the green Sports sorted and it was a totally impractical restore, I'm going to try my hand at cold setting the old fork. I've never had a problem like this before, so it will be fun to learn something new. If it goes well, I'll report back. If I mess it up...well, I'll forget I mentioned it.

Yeah, we want to see the scorcher!

No, no, and I did not mean to imply that. It's just that for those of us who love and respect the language, and who really read what's written, such gaffes are cringeworthy and we sometimes come off as martinets when pointing out the misuse we see. And I tell you frankly, it's getting tougher every day to face a page of text with what we've come to expect. I won't go off on a rant, but I will admit it's possible to both peddle and pedal a bicycle. A salesman peddles it and the rider pedals it.

Some bikes break, most bikes brake (I hope). Perhaps spell correction does some of this?

I'm sure spellcheck plays a significant part but it's possible to correct such a correction if you know what you're looking at, and if you care.

I thought I had posted enough about the '61..
I did spruce it up a bit today with the addition of some nice new MKS pedals...


Attachment 582817
Sorry, I meant petals.

Could be from an old CCM.

I think you had it right the first time?

The bicycle accessory peddler pedalled to the park where he peddled his pedals amongst the petals.
Hopefully that clears things up a bit.

I know it's not from England BUT I landed a early 70's Columbia Sports III 3 speed today complete with speedo for $25 :)
https://images.craigslist.org/00j0j_...Y_1200x900.jpg

Not bad, not bad for 25 too! Headed for the fleet, parts bin or flip?

As it sits (I pick it up tomorrow) it’s looking like fleet but if it’s not as nice then probably parts or flip depending on needs ;)

Should be quite do-able. Had the same issue with a 70-something BSA that my son rode for a while. Once I measured it it was fairly straightforward to get the offending side back in balance.

Finished most of the build a little while ago. Jumped on for a quick neighborhood tear. Great fit and a blast to ride! Still a few adjustments till I get things just the way I want them. The pedal on the left is indeed wonky so I will go to my back up ones. The grips are not the ones I want to use but are the only ones close enough for now. Brakes are a little noisy but are new so will hear how they go after a few rides. I love the Carradice but not the size. Thinking I might want to work up a metal bike toolbox that was put out by ESGE. Will also begin saving for some CR18 rims to build a second wheelset for SS riding.

Backstory... tomorrow we drive out of town to drop the Son off at his Grandparents. This in preparation for my Wife's full knee replacement on Monday. After that... my life will be spent as nurse, cook, errand boy, apptment driver, schoolteacher and anything else that comes my way.

It will be awhile before I get some good miles on this Scorcher.