Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 17939632)
But you had to change the shifter, right?
I have a good collection of SA shifters/pulleys etc., even a few fulcrum stops! |
Shimano's earliest 3 speeds ("333") are pretty much disposable; they don't run as well. parts are not available, and as far as I know there are no service manuals for them either.
The time one could put into a "333" would be better spent with an AW. With that being said, the "333" is a fine hub until it stops working and they are fairly tough, if not less refined. Suntour sold a 3 speed hub but this was a rebranded Sturmey Archer, many of the spare AW parts I have came in Suntour packaging. |
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 17939722)
Shimano's earliest 3 speeds ("333") are pretty much disposable; they don't run as well. parts are not available, and as far as I know there are no service manuals for them either.
The time one could put into a "333" would be better spent with an AW. With that being said, the "333" is a fine hub until it stops working and they are fairly tough, if not less refined. Suntour sold a 3 speed hub but this was a rebranded Sturmey Archer, many of the spare AW parts I have came in Suntour packaging. and decided just to scrap it. |
Speaking of "333", I have a working top tube "333" stick shifter that I have no use for. It is free for the cost of postage.
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Originally Posted by gster
(Post 17939491)
I swapped the rear end out of this Supercycle 333 with a SA hub. Worked fine
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461661 |
5 Attachment(s)
New Purchase.
Picked up a somewhat ratty hercules 3 speed the other day at a reasonable price ($80.00) The hub is poorly stamped but looks like 1971. Here are the before pictures. It has a Japanese "Speedic" leather saddle as well. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461829http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461830http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461831http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461832http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461833 |
Originally Posted by forestine
(Post 17941123)
Great! This is an old Supercycle, too. Glad to see it works.
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I got this one for when people visit but I bought it before I knew anything about bikes. It's just a matter of pride to get it working again, since I'll never be able to sell it for how much I paid for it. D'oh.
ETA: Cool Hercules! |
Originally Posted by forestine
(Post 17941870)
I got this one for when people visit but I bought it before I knew anything about bikes. It's just a matter of pride to get it working again, since I'll never be able to sell it for how much I paid for it. D'oh.
ETA: Cool Hercules! |
Nice bike. I fixed up a Hercules for my (former) daughter-in-law a few years ago.
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 17941424)
It has a Japanese "Speedic" leather saddle as well.
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
(Post 17942904)
Nice bike. I fixed up a Hercules for my (former) daughter-in-law a few years ago.
I think it's easy to assume that Brooks was the only company to make leather saddles (the hipsters probably all think so), but prior to, what, the late 50s?, I think just about all saddles for decent bikes were still made of leather. If you were to take some pictures of your Speedic, I imagine Amir, the proprietor of the saddlewax website, would be happy to include them. |
1 Attachment(s)
Good bye to a friend.
I sold this bike to a guy I work with. 1938 Hercules Falcon. It was really a project to keep me busy during the winter. It was also far too small for me to ride. It's gone to a good home and I only changed him what I had into the bike. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461944 |
Originally Posted by smontanaro
(Post 17942904)
Nice bike. I fixed up a Hercules for my (former) daughter-in-law a few years ago.
I think it's easy to assume that Brooks was the only company to make leather saddles (the hipsters probably all think so), but prior to, what, the late 50s?, I think just about all saddles for decent bikes were still made of leather. If you were to take some pictures of your Speedic, I imagine Amir, the proprietor of the saddlewax website, would be happy to include them. |
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Close examination of this saddle reveals that it says "Superior Quality, Special (not Speedic) Made in Japan.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461945http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461946 |
4 Attachment(s)
I think I have the Sports I bought a while back dialed in now. I like it so much that it is my daily rider for everything. I removed the seat bag for repairs, but the saddle is fantastic. I took it for a 14 mile ride this afternoon (90 degrees and humid). We are pretty flat around here, so I won't need to change the rear cog from stock - most of my rides are in "Normal".
I have one more adjustment to make. The pedals rotate forward when I push it. I checked the chain tension, so it must be tight bearings. From what I have read, that means backing off the lock nut on the non-drive side. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461947http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461948http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461949http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461950 |
I have a ladies Raleigh Sports with the nice "R" nuts on the cotter pins. It seems that someone in the past got a bit aggressive with the file on the left cotter. The head of the cotter is nearly inside the crank arm, and the arm is loose. I would like to buy a new cotter that:
A. Fits the crank, and B. Will accept the "R" nut Does anyone know the diameter of the pin (I think 9.5mm, but I am not sure) and the thread pitch? |
Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 17943197)
I think I have the Sports I bought a while back dialed in now. I like it so much that it is my daily rider for everything. I removed the seat bag for repairs, but the saddle is fantastic. I took it for a 14 mile ride this afternoon (90 degrees and humid). We are pretty flat around here, so I won't need to change the rear cog from stock - most of my rides are in "Normal".
I have one more adjustment to make. The pedals rotate forward when I push it. I checked the chain tension, so it must be tight bearings. From what I have read, that means backing off the lock nut on the non-drive side. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461947http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461948http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461949http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=461950 |
Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 17943299)
I have a ladies Raleigh Sports with the nice "R" nuts on the cotter pins. It seems that someone in the past got a bit aggressive with the file on the left cotter. The head of the cotter is nearly inside the crank arm, and the arm is loose. I would like to buy a new cotter that:
A. Fits the crank, and B. Will accept the "R" nut Does anyone know the diameter of the pin (I think 9.5mm, but I am not sure) and the thread pitch? |
Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 17943299)
I would like to buy a new cotter that:
A. Fits the crank, and B. Will accept the "R" nut Does anyone know the diameter of the pin (I think 9.5mm, but I am not sure) and the thread pitch? N.B. The "R" is just a simple disk pressed into the opening of the nut on the pin. It may be possible to transfer it to another, non-Whitworth pin, but I have not tried this myself. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 17943643)
Hey, I just bought Raleigh specific cotters from bikesmithdesign online HOWEVER it says right on their page that the cotter does NOT accept the Raleigh "R" nut. I presume it's due to the threading. Other than the online auction place I don't know where you'd get one. Or buy a cheap Raleigh bike that has them & use for parts.
Thanks VV, I found a cotter in my junk box that fits. The Raleigh nut won't fit it, but at least I have a bike that is rideable now. I'll keep my eyes open for old Raleigh cotters though. |
Raleigh Sports - Fenders and Saddle
4 Attachment(s)
Can anybody offer any suggestions for a couple things?
Firstly, i'm working on restoring a couple fenders PalmettoUpstate was kind enough to offer. I find that one of the stays on the rear fender is quite bent. The mounting holes line up with the rest so i'm partially tempted to just leave the stay as it is. But I had a quick go at straightening it. I put a board down and drove a couple nails around the stay, then used a small hammer to try and pound the first bend. But I didn't really make much progress and I'm concerned about damaging the weld area. I put a piece of wood between the hammer and stay so i wasn't pounding directly onto the metal. Maybe i need to shore this up better with bigger pieces.. I'm thinking maybe i should use heat, like a blow torch and heat the stay? Anyway, maybe this is unnecessary and I should leave it bent. What are your thoughts? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462274http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462273 Secondly, the Saddle. It was in good condition, but quite dried out. I put 2 pretty thick coats of Dubbin and left it for a couple weeks now. The leather was still greasy today so i left it outside in the sun, hoping the Dubbin would heat up a little and absorb more into the leather. But the leather is still quite stiff. The Dubbin has a parafin wax smell, and is beeswax in appearance. I sorta wish i had used Brooks Proofhide instead tbh. Here are some pics i took today. Leather looks quite scaly. Not sure if I'll manage to get this very supple. Might be a right-off. What do you think? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462275http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462276 |
I suspect the "Dubbin" product is based on beeswax and shouldn't be a problem. The crazing you see looks to be superficial and should affect performance or longevity. I have a 1967 Brooks saddle with similar superficial crazing that has held up fine.
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How to flush the rear hub
This week I picked up an AMC Hercules bike of Craigslist in what appeared to be very good condition. The AW hub say 79 on it and I'm guessing that's when the bike was made. I had been looking for a Robin Hood from the mid to early 60's (and am still looking) as that was my first real bike as a kid. It was stolen and my folks bought me a Hercules, which I never liked quite as well. This was mostly a nostalgia purchase but I do intend to ride it locally and I have been doing so.
Cosmetically the bike was in very good (not pristine) condition but only 2 gears worked (2 and 3). Having read a bit about the SA AW hub I figured I could get it working again and I did. I lubed it with 3 in 1 oil and adjusted the tension on the hub according some directions I found on the source of all knowledge - YouTube. First and second gears worked but 3rd was free spinning - before I had 3rd gear and 2nd gear in the 1 and 2 positions. With a bit more adjusting I got all three gears working nicely. I've been reading through the discussion here (and it will take me weeks to digest all of the great information!) and I see where 3 in 1 isn't recommended (gets gummy). Some folks have mentioned but never explained how to flush the hub. So, I'm looking for some advice on this. I suppose I could take the hub apart and reassemble it but it seems unnecessary at this point. And as others have said, this is a great thread. I'm learning a lot. Don |
Originally Posted by jman0war
(Post 17949142)
Can anybody offer any suggestions for a couple things?
Firstly, i'm working on restoring a couple fenders PalmettoUpstate was kind enough to offer. I find that one of the stays on the rear fender is quite bent. The mounting holes line up with the rest so i'm partially tempted to just leave the stay as it is. But I had a quick go at straightening it. I put a board down and drove a couple nails around the stay, then used a small hammer to try and pound the first bend. But I didn't really make much progress and I'm concerned about damaging the weld area. I put a piece of wood between the hammer and stay so i wasn't pounding directly onto the metal. Maybe i need to shore this up better with bigger pieces.. I'm thinking maybe i should use heat, like a blow torch and heat the stay? Anyway, maybe this is unnecessary and I should leave it bent. What are your thoughts? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462274http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462273 Secondly, the Saddle. It was in good condition, but quite dried out. I put 2 pretty thick coats of Dubbin and left it for a couple weeks now. The leather was still greasy today so i left it outside in the sun, hoping the Dubbin would heat up a little and absorb more into the leather. But the leather is still quite stiff. The Dubbin has a parafin wax smell, and is beeswax in appearance. I sorta wish i had used Brooks Proofhide instead tbh. Here are some pics i took today. Leather looks quite scaly. Not sure if I'll manage to get this very supple. Might be a right-off. What do you think? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462275http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=462276 |
You might be able to modify a small brass punch to beat it out with...gently, of course.
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