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Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 21134513)
I wish we could order one of those new. I'm trying to figure out a course of action regarding my Clubman Peugeot project. I currently have a 40h 1953 Sturmey FW four speed, alloy shell hub awaiting a rebuild. The original plan was to build it into a new set of 700c wheels, like a Velocity Dyad (available in 40h) for my Peugeot A08 after I reset the dropouts. The bike would be used for city commuting, day rides into the countryside along paths and roads, and all bad weather riding (I have studded winter tires in 700c). However, a guy I know at a local shop has some original Rigida 700c alloy wheelsets in 36h. They would be more 'correct' for my Peugeot, but perhaps not appropriate for tough, long term use. I do have a 36h 1979 AW hub awaiting a rebuild that I could use with the Rigida rim, but I think a Clubman style bike deserves a 'cool' hub from the era if possible, and a four-speed. The AW I could use for parts for either my AG or FW later on.
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Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 21134769)
Another possibility is to use a Rigida 40-hole 650B rim, currently sold by xxcyle.com in France. I just built one up with a 40-hole alloy shell AW hub though it might end up with different internals at some point.
Cet article n'est plus commercialisé ! 40H rims are really rare nowadays. I've found the Japanese Grand Bois with their 700C Papillon 40H with single eyelets and the accompanying 700C Papillon 28/32/36H for the front with double eyelets. Also available in 650B: 28/32/36H and 40H. Quite spendy though at around €70 each + shipping. |
Originally Posted by JaccoW
(Post 21134924)
That would be a good option... were it not for them not selling it anymore. :(
"This article is no longer sold!" 40H rims are really rare nowadays. I've found the Japanese Grand Bois with their 700C Papillon 40H with single eyelets and the accompanying 700C Papillon 28/32/36H for the front with double eyelets. Also available in 650B: 28/32/36H and 40H. Quite spendy though at around €70 each + shipping. |
In other news, today I took apart the Dynoluxe light system from the '50 Superbe. It is the one where you can either use the generator function, or switch to the batteries when stopped. It is powered by the AG. Anybody have experience with these? I plan to clean the contacts, add a little dielectric grease, find some bulbs, and see what happens. Bulb recommendations are somewhere in this thread. I'll find em.
This was inside the headlight: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rz...w1156-h1540-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3c...w1156-h1540-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y7...w2054-h1540-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gn...w1156-h1540-no |
Originally Posted by JaccoW
(Post 21134924)
That would be a good option... were it not for them not selling it anymore. :(
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/...liffhanger-584 Only comes in black, however, and about $67 per rim in the US. |
Originally Posted by Iron Horse
(Post 21133640)
I realize this is neither vintage or collectable, but it looked cool, so I bought one. It is a three speed, and "english," so thought I would share and post here. My apologies if out of place. Shakedown ride was tonight after 2 weeks of off and on assembly. Items noted. It needs to be geared down some. Not as bad as traditional AW geared hubs, but just a bit. I can cruise in high gear on the flats, but it's a workout. Any hill at all, and you are downshifting. The frame is too tall for me. Zero clearance standing over the frame. Bike shop was the one who suggested getting this size frame. Oh well, I'll just have to be careful. Bike looks to have originally designed with a one piece crank and changed to a sealed bottom bracket as an afterthought. It weighs about as much as my 69 sears three speed, so not too bad. Regearing will take care of most of that. Having never messed with disk brakes before, this was a bit of a challenge. I ended up after much fiddling and growling using a small dim flashlight held betwixt my toes shining up through the disk so that I could make small adjustments (make too big of adjustments, and the thing moves all over the place...grrr.) and get the allen screws tight with there still being light shining through on either side of the disk. Hey, it worked... The cables all need to be shortened by around 6 to 8 inches or so, but that is easy enough to do. One neat thing, the pedals are overhaulable! They were waaaay tight, so I took off the threaded aluminum caps to find a jam nut, washer and cone with 6 sides on the top for a socket. Sweet! All better now with a little adjustment. Anyhoo, thought I would share my new toy with everyone. Hope everyone had a good weekend! What sized rims and tires? |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...25186106c.jpeg
Polished Velocity Atlas Velocity also makes Atlas in polished finish and the site says they come in 700c 40 hole. If you can live without the 40 hole alloy FW (I couldn't either), Universal Cycles has unpolished Atlas 700c in 36 hole for $72 USD. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21134396)
Humber Sports
I think my bike is essentially this bike with Humber specific fittings Just one down from the 531 models. http://www.kurtkaminer.com/1954raleighcat_can_06_lg.jpg |
Velocity rims
I have a velocity rim on the rear wheel of our tandem. No exactly classic, but a great choice for how you want to use the bike.
I have a fork I am taking off a 55 Hercules to put on my 52 Hercules tourist. The donor fork was repainted red and I am trying to remove the red paint and flat black primer to get down to the factory black paint. Is this a fools errand? Does anyone have any experience doing this? |
Originally Posted by jackbombay
(Post 21135282)
I like it!
What sized rims and tires? https://www.amazon.com/Raleigh-Bikes.../dp/B07BBPKD83 |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 21134513)
I wish we could order one of those new. I'm trying to figure out a course of action regarding my Clubman Peugeot project. I currently have a 40h 1953 Sturmey FW four speed, alloy shell hub awaiting a rebuild. The original plan was to build it into a new set of 700c wheels, like a Velocity Dyad (available in 40h) for my Peugeot A08 after I reset the dropouts. The bike would be used for city commuting, day rides into the countryside along paths and roads, and all bad weather riding (I have studded winter tires in 700c). However, a guy I know at a local shop has some original Rigida 700c alloy wheelsets in 36h. They would be more 'correct' for my Peugeot, but perhaps not appropriate for tough, long term use. I do have a 36h 1979 AW hub awaiting a rebuild that I could use with the Rigida rim, but I think a Clubman style bike deserves a 'cool' hub from the era if possible, and a four-speed. The AW I could use for parts for either my AG or FW later on.
I love the way they mounted the front headlights on the Club bikes. If I decide on a generator hub for the Peugeot front wheel build, maybe I'll try and do that with a modern lighting system. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21132022)
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Nice!
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 21135384)
So Sun Ringle is no longer bringing in the 40 hole version of their CR18 650a rim. So much for those AW hubs I've been stockpiling. I'd call this extremely bad news.
https://www.thebikeshopstore.com/cat...oaAuIfEALw_wcB |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21135794)
What a nice and rare bike. I couldn't resist this project either. I too have trouble riding drop bars. I end up on the tops where there just isn't enough control. Still, one more great old Brit being rescued and back on the road is very satisfying. Good job.
Truth is I almost passed on this one when I got there to see it. It was in such a sad shape that I thought I'd just be getting a frame out of the deal. You really have to respect that British chrome. A vinegar soak and a brass brush did wonders. The seller has contacted me re: a prototype SA 3 speed hub w/ a 5 cog hub that he has access to from the inventor's son. I'm waiting to hear back from him. |
Re: My Failed Derailleur Project
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...09e2aeb7f9.jpg I now know why 10 speeds have those big plastic discs on the rear wheel and why sometimes they have a big chunk missing. It's to stop the derailleur from smashing into the spokes... I'd set the derailleur up with the SA throttle shifter. Like a regular trigger it has a stop (indexed) and I thought that the amount of travel would work the derailleur. It didn't... The shifter continued past the first stop pushing the derailleur too far into the spokes. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f6f5367114.jpg I may re visit or wait for a proper vintage 2 cog derailleur to show up. |
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 21135384)
So Sun Ringle is no longer bringing in the 40 hole version of their CR18 650a rim. So much for those AW hubs I've been stockpiling. I'd call this extremely bad news.
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Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21135854)
I now know why 10 speeds have those big plastic discs on the rear wheel
and why sometimes they have a big chunk missing. It's to stop the derailleur from smashing into the spokes... |
Originally Posted by jackbombay
(Post 21135891)
It looks like there are limit screws on that derraileur like modern derraileurs, were those adjusted when the derraileur was installed?
The stop screw wouldn't reach long enough anyway and it wouldn't hit anything in that short amount of travel. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21135902)
No, not really..
The stop screw wouldn't reach long enough anyway and it wouldn't hit anything in that short amount of travel. |
Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 21136120)
Time for a longer screw.
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Originally Posted by Ballenxj
(Post 21134500)
I think it's kind of COOL! I didn't realize Raleigh was still making 3 speeds, and a modernized one at that. Let us know how you like it. :thumb:
Other than needing to be geared down, currently a 42/18. I plan on dropping to a 42/20 this weekend if all goes well. The chain stays come out rather abruptly, then run back to the dropouts. The way my feet sit on the pedals, I am occasionally hitting the chain stays with my heels. So I need to train myself to kick my heels out a bit. Something interesting, I have several bikes with Shimano 3 speeds, and to downshift, you roll the shifter forward, and first is the default "no tension" gear (I suppose so that if your shifter fails, you can get anywhere, just slowly). The Sturmey archer is opposite. Rolling back the shifter downshifts, and the default "no tension" gear is 3rd or high gear. That would be bad if you're on a hill and the shifter broke. I do enjoy the bike, it rides nice, and has a good balance to it. If I had the choice to do it again, I would, but just with a medium frame instead of large. No clearance. Stops are done with some forethought...
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 21134353)
I like that shade of green. It looks very similar to my bike painted the Raleigh Green of 1950.
Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 21134502)
I see they have the shifter mounted under the brake lever. I wonder how well that worked.
Originally Posted by Ballenxj
(Post 21135353)
According to this amazon ad, 700x45c.
https://www.amazon.com/Raleigh-Bikes.../dp/B07BBPKD83 I think the only thing this bike lacks, is a rear rack in the same anodized(?) copper as the handlebars. I like the handlebars, but without something at the other end of the bike the same color, the bike looks (to me) a bit unbalanced color wise. |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 21135057)
Ah, sorry about that! I do see that Velocity is making a 650B caliper-brake compatible rim in 40-hole drilling:
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/...liffhanger-584 Only comes in black, however, and about $67 per rim in the US.
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21135902)
No, not really..
The stop screw wouldn't reach long enough anyway and it wouldn't hit anything in that short amount of travel. |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 21135823)
Looks like those are readily available:
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 21136642)
Wouldn't the thing to do be just set it up so when the lever was pulled as far as it would go it was enough to do the shift but no more? |
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