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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

El Segundo 03-15-15 07:15 AM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17631175)
question . why shouldn't I use my original rims ? i see all this rim talk and i just wondered . they're in pretty good shape and turn straight . i haven't tried to get the tires off yet but i'm optimistic .. and id like to grease the crank . any video links or advice ? cotter pin removal and reinstall and stuff .

If the wheels are in good shape I would just ride them, nothing wrong with good steel wheels. My wheels were rusted and bent so I built a set to replace them. For the cotter removal just google that subject, several how-to YouTube videos out there.

Enjoy the bike!

BigChief 03-15-15 01:22 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17631175)
question . why shouldn't I use my original rims ? i see all this rim talk and i just wondered . they're in pretty good shape and turn straight . i haven't tried to get the tires off yet but i'm optimistic .. and id like to grease the crank . any video links or advice ? cotter pin removal and reinstall and stuff .

There's a good Raleigh bottom bracket rebuild video on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebo4DOK4MVc

also, If you would like nice tools for this project, they can be bought from Mark at bikesmithdesign.com
I should add: It's not necessary to remove the fixed race like the guy in the video does. You can leave
it in place and clean it up with a rag on a stick. It's nicer to have the whole bracket apart, but if you feel the fight with the fixed cup isn't worth the effort, you can still regrease without taking it off.

adventurepdx 03-15-15 01:39 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17630749)
How about the hammered chain guard; know where they can be had?

I don't, since this isn't my bike.

HOWEVER! Someone alerted me as to who the owner of the bike is, who goes by "spoke sniffer". (May even be here on the forums?) Spoke Sniffer has a full set on the bike on flickr. Feast your eyes!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 01:59 PM


Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 17632579)
I don't, since this isn't my bike.

HOWEVER! Someone alerted me as to who the owner of the bike is, who goes by "spoke sniffer". (May even be here on the forums?) Spoke Sniffer has a full set on the bike on flickr. Feast your eyes!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/

Excellent, thanks, maybe I can track him down thru here or flickr. And then I see another cool "shorty" chain guard at 6780. Only place I see new ones of the type is here: Chainguards, Frame Protectors, Kickstands - Accessories

adventurepdx 03-15-15 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17632626)
Excellent, thanks, maybe I can track him down thru here or flickr. And then I see another cool "shorty" chain guard at 6780. Only place I see new ones of the type is here: Chainguards, Frame Protectors, Kickstands - Accessories

I've seen that VO chainguard and like it, though others expressed concern that it would make the bike too "French". I wish there were more choices for short chainguards as well.

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 02:02 PM

Fender mounting bolt size?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Anyone know what size bolt goes in the frame where the detailing chopstick is inserted? Many thanks in advance.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=439233

noglider 03-15-15 02:12 PM

I love Graham's videos! He is informative and clear, and I love his accent.

I'm normally a strong proponent of aluminum rims, but sometimes, leaving well enough alone is the best plan. I've changed to aluminum rims on my friends' 3-speeds, but mine are staying original. I don't ride them enough to justify the cost of changing the rims. Plus the chrome has worn off the rims on my Rudge, and that happens to make the brakes work well when dry. They still don't work worth a darn in the wet, but that rarely affects me. When I had the Rudge in NJ, I just rode something else in the wet.

michaelz28 03-15-15 02:52 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 17632537)
There's a good Raleigh bottom bracket rebuild video on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebo4DOK4MVc

also, If you would like nice tools for this project, they can be bought from Mark at bikesmithdesign.com
I should add: It's not necessary to remove the fixed race like the guy in the video does. You can leave
it in place and clean it up with a rag on a stick. It's nicer to have the whole bracket apart, but if you feel the fight with the fixed cup isn't worth the effort, you can still regrease without taking it off.

thanks to all @velovixen , @El Segundo and @BigChief. the vid was helpfull for sure and i can see where you don't have to remove the stationary race . about the pins .. is there anyway to save them during the procedure ? i have the original raliegh ones and don't think that they will fair well with the hammering and all ... so a modern 26 x 1 3/8 tire will work on a old rim than ?

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 03:03 PM


Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 17632631)
I've seen that VO chainguard and like it, though others expressed concern that it would make the bike too "French". I wish there were more choices for short chainguards as well.

I looked at that FLICKR set and it appears that the hammered aluminum chain guard may be a "Zefal" brand... See what you think: https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/

adventurepdx 03-15-15 03:22 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17632774)
I looked at that FLICKR set and it appears that the hammered aluminum chain guard may be a "Zefal" brand... See what you think: https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/

Yeah, looks like a Zefal.

desconhecido 03-15-15 03:26 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17632742)
thanks to all @velovixen , @El Segundo and @BigChief. the vid was helpfull for sure and i can see where you don't have to remove the stationary race . about the pins .. is there anyway to save them during the procedure ? i have the original raliegh ones and don't think that they will fair well with the hammering and all ... so a modern 26 x 1 3/8 tire will work on a old rim than ?

Since I've gotten a Bikesmith press, I don't think I've removed any cotters that couldn't be reused. If you are working on a bike with Raleigh "R" nuts on the cotters, I think the only way to reuse the nuts is by reusing the cotters. The press is a bit pricey for single use. If I had it to do over, I might try the Harbor Freight chain tool mod -- that's pretty slick and I like the idea of repurposing stuff.

Plenty of discussion on available 26 1 3/8 tires here. Unless it's a Schwinn (597 mm), you can use any 26 1 3/8 " tire, but not 26 1.375 which is probably for either 599 mm or 559 mm rims. Raleigh Sports had 26 1 3/8 590 mm bsd tires. I'm not familiar with the Columbia, but it probably does too. Any tire specified as 590 mm, EA3, or 650A is the same size.

There are a couple Schwalbe offerings in the size -- Marathon Supreme (my favorite, though expensive) and Delta Cruiser (white and well liked by those who use them). Michelin has a relatively inexpensive alternative and so does Kenda. Maybe some other Chines made inexpensive tires, too. Then there is the Panaracer Col De La Vie which is nice looking and a bit fat and is a cushy riding tire. It's a nice tire, but some of us have had difficulty in getting them mounted properly. Others have not.

dweenk 03-15-15 03:27 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 17632645)
I love Graham's videos! He is informative and clear, and I love his accent.

I'm normally a strong proponent of aluminum rims, but sometimes, leaving well enough alone is the best plan. I've changed to aluminum rims on my friends' 3-speeds, but mine are staying original. I don't ride them enough to justify the cost of changing the rims. Plus the chrome has worn off the rims on my Rudge, and that happens to make the brakes work well when dry. They still don't work worth a darn in the wet, but that rarely affects me. When I had the Rudge in NJ, I just rode something else in the wet.

I have a couple of bikes (well maybe 4) with steel rims. They are the original rims, and are in great shape, so why change?

I don't ride them very often and when I do it is in dry weather. I figure that they came with the bike, and if they are still OK, they stay with the bike.

BigChief 03-15-15 03:31 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17632742)
thanks to all @velovixen , @El Segundo and @BigChief. the vid was helpfull for sure and i can see where you don't have to remove the stationary race . about the pins .. is there anyway to save them during the procedure ? i have the original raliegh ones and don't think that they will fair well with the hammering and all ... so a modern 26 x 1 3/8 tire will work on a old rim than ?

Yes, you can press the cotter pins out. I have a special tool because I work on these bikes a lot. Park discontinued theirs, but bikesmithdesigns makes nice ones. Or, you can use a smaller clamp on type bench vise and a socket. Awkward, but it works. I've been happy with the regular Kendra blackwall 26x 3/8 tires, but there are nicer ones.

desconhecido 03-15-15 03:37 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 17632645)
I'm normally a strong proponent of aluminum rims, but sometimes, leaving well enough alone is the best plan. I've changed to aluminum rims on my friends' 3-speeds, but mine are staying original. I don't ride them enough to justify the cost of changing the rims. Plus the chrome has worn off the rims on my Rudge, and that happens to make the brakes work well when dry. They still don't work worth a darn in the wet, but that rarely affects me. When I had the Rudge in NJ, I just rode something else in the wet.

I agree with you. If the rims are not in crappy shape, I don't mind the steel ones. Even when nice and shiny, they will still stop you when dry either with the grey pads or with the Kool Stop pads. My only thing, I guess, is that it's a lot of work to rehab one of these old bikes and I really don't like putting rusty rims or pedals on a bike that I've put a lot of effort into.

michaelz28 03-15-15 03:38 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17632839)
Since I've gotten a Bikesmith press, I don't think I've removed any cotters that couldn't be reused. If you are working on a bike with Raleigh "R" nuts on the cotters, I think the only way to reuse the nuts is by reusing the cotters. The press is a bit pricey for single use. If I had it to do over, I might try the Harbor Freight chain tool mod -- that's pretty slick and I like the idea of repurposing stuff.

Plenty of discussion on available 26 1 3/8 tires here. Unless it's a Schwinn (597 mm), you can use any 26 1 3/8 " tire, but not 26 1.375 which is probably for either 599 mm or 559 mm rims. Raleigh Sports had 26 1 3/8 590 mm bsd tires. I'm not familiar with the Columbia, but it probably does too. Any tire specified as 590 mm, EA3, or 650A is the same size.

There are a couple Schwalbe offerings in the size -- Marathon Supreme (my favorite, though expensive) and Delta Cruiser (white and well liked by those who use them). Michelin has a relatively inexpensive alternative and so does Kenda. Maybe some other Chines made inexpensive tires, too. Then there is the Panaracer Col De La Vie which is nice looking and a bit fat and is a cushy riding tire. It's a nice tire, but some of us have had difficulty in getting them mounted properly. Others have not.

i have a rather large C clamp that with some pins and long sockets i think i can press it out and in ..i was looking at the schwalbe fux gum wall offering for like 22 bucks a piece . thanks .

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 04:53 PM


Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 17632828)
Yeah, looks like a Zefal.

Did a little more checking at his FLICKR set and it turns out that it is a "LeFol Le Martele" [mais oui!]

Anyway, I like the art of these; and the practicality...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...57630365118718

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 04:57 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17632876)
i have a rather large C clamp that with some pins and long sockets i think i can press it out and in ..i was looking at the schwalbe fux gum wall offering for like 22 bucks a piece . thanks .

You might wanna check this out.

I built one, after finding out that the chain breaker was a POS on bicycle chains. [might be fine for motorcycle chains; dunno]

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ter-press.html

michaelz28 03-15-15 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17633082)
You might wanna check this out.

I built one, after finding out that the chain breaker was a POS on bicycle chains. [might be fine for motorcycle chains; dunno]

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ter-press.html

got ya . i guess the pin doesn't really mater its the nut i want to keep . I'm not keen of swinging a 22 oz ball peen hammer at the bike though . so pressing them out and in is the way .

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17633116)
got ya . i guess the pin doesn't really mater its the nut i want to keep . I'm not keen of swinging a 22 oz ball peen hammer at the bike though . so pressing them out and in is the way .

Yeah, I try to stay away from BB re-greasing and all... maybe a thread will pop up on strategies for avoiding that... but sometimes it can't be avoided. I have used my HF "creation" a couple of times and it worked like a champ. And yes, I got mine on sale for $9.99 and I think I may have had a 20% off coupon on top of that.

AMESJA knows his sheet IMO...

michaelz28 03-15-15 05:44 PM


Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 17633179)
Yeah, I try to stay away from BB re-greasing and all... maybe a thread will pop up on strategies for avoiding that... but sometimes it can't be avoided. I have used my HF "creation" a couple of times and it worked like a champ. And yes, I got mine on sale for $9.99 and I think I may have had a 20% off coupon on top of that.

AMESJA knows his sheet IMO...

not saying he doesn't . just feel i got too nice a crank to be woopin on it ( one miss ) . its in pretty new shape . well get it i'm sure .

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 06:04 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17633201)
not saying he doesn't . just feel i got too nice a crank to be woopin on it ( one miss ) . its in pretty new shape . well get it i'm sure .

No, not implying that you sed that at all. Yeah, good stuff. If you have a HF around get one. Works a helluva lot better for a cotter press than a chain breaker IMO - LOL!

PalmettoUpstate 03-15-15 06:37 PM

DEARTH THE BARBARIAN SEZ:

Yea, they be $14.99 at HF rat now!

Heavy Duty Chain Breaker

arex 03-15-15 08:24 PM

Pics, as VV requested. I still need to put on the chain, run cables, and do the bar tape.

http://i.imgur.com/Qrxhfx8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MRIrk9K.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/O2So2FP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/U9IVjVo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/urCn7iM.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7QpOeal.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uNVw26Y.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Z4Zxhd7.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/OnyD1in.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0d813Tt.jpg

El Segundo 03-15-15 09:42 PM

@arex Really nice bike. Could you share some details on the crank and bottom bracket set-up, such as model and size? Did you use the Velo-Orange threadless? Did you do the paint?

Thanks

BigChief 03-15-15 09:47 PM

Crank pins can sometimes fall right out but sometimes they put up a real fight. I've been able to reuse them even if they were very tight if I pressed them out. If you ever need new ones, 9.5mm is the diameter you need. Most of the time the wedge angle will need some adjustment on a bench grinder or a sharp file to get the right fit. Don't know if the Raleigh cap nuts would fit on the modern pins or not. Never tried them

arex 03-15-15 10:01 PM


Originally Posted by El Segundo (Post 17633752)
@arex Really nice bike. Could you share some details on the crank and bottom bracket set-up, such as model and size? Did you use the Velo-Orange threadless? Did you do the paint?

Thanks

1. The crank is a 175mm Lasco crank, with a 46T FSA chainring. JIS square taper, supposedly single-speed, but the crank is machined so that you could probably put a second ring on there if you wanted.

2. The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.

3. The paint is powdercoat. Brilliant metallic green out in the sun, muddy brown indoors...it doesn't photograph well. I was trying to match the original paint, but that didn't really happen. This is the place that did the excellent work: PowderTek, LLC

michaelz28 03-15-15 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 17633758)
Crank pins can sometimes fall right out but sometimes they put up a real fight. I've been able to reuse them even if they were very tight if I pressed them out. If you ever need new ones, 9.5mm is the diameter you need. Most of the time the wedge angle will need some adjustment on a bench grinder or a sharp file to get the right fit. Don't know if the Raleigh cap nuts would fit on the modern pins or not. Never tried them

thats what im hoping ..http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psis4wfe0g.jpg

El Segundo 03-15-15 10:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by arex (Post 17633773)
1. The crank is a 175mm Lasco crank, with a 46T FSA chainring. JIS square taper, supposedly single-speed, but the crank is machined so that you could probably put a second ring on there if you wanted.

2. The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.

3. The paint is powdercoat. Brilliant metallic green out in the sun, muddy brown indoors...it doesn't photograph well. I was trying to match the original paint, but that didn't really happen. This is the place that did the excellent work: PowderTek, LLC

Thanks for the info, your bike looks really good. Reason I was asking is that I am about ready to rework my Superbe since the recent completion of the Sports. I have wanted to change to more modern cranks but have been reluctant to take a chance on fiddling with spindles and cranksets. I will revisit the Sheldon site. My Sports is powder coated black metallic with clear coat and it looks blue/gray under interior light and does not photograph well outdoors either. In person the metallic looks good. Attached is indoor photo.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=439316

desconhecido 03-15-15 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by michaelz28 (Post 17633787)
thats what im hoping ..

I don't think that the threading on any new cotters will match the threads of the "R" nuts. Dollars to doughnuts, as they say, the threads will be some variety of metric (maybe 8mm X 1 or 6mm X 1). The "R" nuts are without doubt some variety of Imperial -- Whitworth or something else. The Bikesmith guy says that they're not available. I think if it were easy, he would be doing it.

If you can figure out what the threads on the original cotters are, you might be able to find a suitable die to reform the threads on the new cotters. Any solution is likely, in my opinion, more trouble than it's worth. I guess it just depends on how much you like trouble (with a capital T and that rhymes with P and you know the rest.)

Velocivixen 03-15-15 11:20 PM

@arex - I get first dibs if you sell that baby. Not my size, but it sure is fantastic. Giving me interesting ideas.


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