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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

Salubrious 09-10-19 01:27 PM


Originally Posted by HPL (Post 21116328)
Hello, Looking for any knowledge on this Raleigh, I believe to be 1930-1933. Serial number J26499, SA "AW" rear hub (no date stamp), SA "DYNOHUB" front hub, Wald PAT'D 2018531 rear mount kickstand. I've begun to dismantle this frame; I have it's "brother", but I believe it's a little later model (1938?). Curious as to when "AW" & "DYNOHUB" components were first being used; Pre-War or Post-War? It had been painted and embellished (horribly!). Needs a lot of TLC. Hubs and headset seem fairly decent (feel only, no visible bearing inspection); BB has play, missing rear chain guard section, shift cable gone, brake shoes are shot. My only Raleigh 3spd is a '70 Sports, so I'm unfamiliar with what this should have for original components. I'll post the other frame when I get back to it's location. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

The first AWs appeared in 1938 if memory serves. There would be an '8' stamped on the hub. The Dynohubs appeared a bit later; they too have the date stamped on them.

PeterLYoung 09-10-19 03:37 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21116452)
A challenging project.
My 1954 Mystery Bike has a similar flange.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8d87b09354.jpg

You can hang a Cyclo derailleur and convert the SA hub with a couple of sprockets and go 6 speed!!!

gster 09-10-19 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by PeterLYoung (Post 21116831)
You can hang a Cyclo derailleur and convert the SA hub with a couple of sprockets and go 6 speed!!!

I am considering a project like that.
Not on this bike.
Could I use a more modern derailleur?
I have a very nice Shimano Eagle II
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e851bb9c88.jpg

BigChief 09-10-19 04:27 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21115539)
The Raleigh is 95 percent done. I just have to clean up the electrical light pieces and figure out a bulb upgrade. I took a lovely ride (the first one in the history of my ownership) here in Ottawa. It was a fine day for riding three speeds along our river paths. It took many months to finish but I'm very happy and thankful for this thread. It's what got me into three speeds (thanks SixtyFiver!)

The AG ticks along nicely. The Cyclo three speed external derailer works very well after a rebuild and fresh grease. I think this bike could boogie over flat roads. The big cog is 21t. One thing: it won't hold Normal gear. I think it's a shift cable adjustment issue. Any ideas? High and Low work perfectly.

I used a Tektro 800a front brake with some minor adjustment of the fender if you're wondering. The original brake parts crumbled, and I plan to take this old timer on a weekender or two so I fitted a more modern yet not out of place alternative. The rear is off a 1979 Sports. Panaracer Col de la Vie tires are fitted which are very comfy and look the business.
The Kool Stops work great but squeak terribly. Any fixes?


Very well done! Great job on this. AW hubs have a neutral spot between Normal and High that you need to avoid. Slipping into neutral from Normal suggests a bit too much tension on the cable. A slight toe in at the front of the pads will stop the squeaking. With the steel calipers, we just bend them with pliers. My 550R Tektros came with pads with swivel adjusters built in. Not sure how to adjust alloy calipers without adjustable pads. Shim the pads somehow I guess.

PeterLYoung 09-10-19 04:38 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21116879)
I am considering a project like that.
Not on this bike.
Could I use a more modern derailleur?
I have a very nice Shimano Eagle II
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e851bb9c88.jpg

Don't see why not, might have to install longer 'stop screws' to set travel range and limit travel but to me a derailleur is a derailleur.
You are experienced and knowledgable to do this, its finding the conversion cogs that's hard these days.

gster 09-10-19 04:44 PM


Originally Posted by PeterLYoung (Post 21116911)
Don't see why not, might have to install longer 'stop screws' to set travel range and limit travel but to me a derailleur is a derailleur.
You are experienced and knowledgable to do this, its finding the conversion cogs that's hard these days.

Yes.
I'd have to limit the travel of the derailleur,
either at the derailleur or the shifter.

BigChief 09-10-19 08:31 PM


Originally Posted by HPL (Post 21116328)
Hello, Looking for any knowledge on this Raleigh, I believe to be 1930-1933. Serial number J26499, SA "AW" rear hub (no date stamp), SA "DYNOHUB" front hub, Wald PAT'D 2018531 rear mount kickstand. I've begun to dismantle this frame; I have it's "brother", but I believe it's a little later model (1938?). Curious as to when "AW" & "DYNOHUB" components were first being used; Pre-War or Post-War? It had been painted and embellished (horribly!). Needs a lot of TLC. Hubs and headset seem fairly decent (feel only, no visible bearing inspection); BB has play, missing rear chain guard section, shift cable gone, brake shoes are shot. My only Raleigh 3spd is a '70 Sports, so I'm unfamiliar with what this should have for original components. I'll post the other frame when I get back to it's location. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

This is a Sports Tourist. It has the later style mudguards . Not sure when they first appeared. Late 30s I think. Also the stamped Sturmey Archer logo is the more modern type. Again, can't date that feature, but I'll guess this bike is from the later 30s or early 40s. Nice bike. Looks like a fun project.

HPL 09-11-19 01:12 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21117263)
This is a Sports Tourist. It has the later style mudguards . Not sure when they first appeared. Late 30s I think. Also the stamped Sturmey Archer logo is the more modern type. Again, can't date that feature, but I'll guess this bike is from the later 30s or early 40s. Nice bike. Looks like a fun project.


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21116621)
The first AWs appeared in 1938 if memory serves. There would be an '8' stamped on the hub. The Dynohubs appeared a bit later; they too have the date stamped on them.

Thank you both for the info. I certainly don't know enough about these bikes. I thought that the front looked suspiciously like a Sports, but I'm not familiar as to how many models/years that fender was used. I also did not think that either hub was original to the frame, and I was basing the year solely on the serial number. As I recall, the previous owner thought that one bike was a '36 and the other a '38; but I don't remember which was which. I'm trying to determine when the "no date" hubs were used; I don't believe I saw any date code on the "DYNOHUB" either, but I'll check again. Does the same BB assy as my '70 sports fit this model? I was assuming that most parts were interchangeable as I have extra hubs (front and rear) and a new TA or TC (?) BB. The men's frame has the top tube mounted shifter if that helps indicate a manufacturing time frame. Everything I tried to lookup for the serial gave me no specific year (could not find a "J" listing) except if following alphabetically it would be between '30 and '33 if indeed this particular model was produced back to that time frame. I hope it's not sacrilege to have this painted in a color other than black (my Sports is black); planning on both bikes to be "chrome" orange powder coated with black lugs, BB shell, fenders, chain guard, etc. As I've yet to hunt down specific parts; I was curious to know if the shift cable assy's, brake pads, and chain guard section were readily available as aftermarket parts?
Appreciate your taking time to help!

gster 09-11-19 05:05 AM

Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...60ad0c3594.jpg
Two rear wheels waiting for frames..
FG is a 1965 hub with the EA1 rim
behind is a '61 hub with a standard EA3 Dunlop rim with new rubber.
It was a VERY tight fit.
I would say the rarest part on these hubs is the oil cap.
I'd like to get my hands on a box of NOS caps....

gster 09-11-19 05:23 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21115539)
The Raleigh is 95 percent done. I just have to clean up the electrical light pieces and figure out a bulb upgrade. I took a lovely ride (the first one in the history of my ownership) here in Ottawa. It was a fine day for riding three speeds along our river paths. It took many months to finish but I'm very happy and thankful for this thread. It's what got me into three speeds (thanks SixtyFiver!)

The AG ticks along nicely. The Cyclo three speed external derailer works very well after a rebuild and fresh grease. I think this bike could boogie over flat roads. The big cog is 21t. One thing: it won't hold Normal gear. I think it's a shift cable adjustment issue. Any ideas? High and Low work perfectly.

I used a Tektro 800a front brake with some minor adjustment of the fender if you're wondering. The original brake parts crumbled, and I plan to take this old timer on a weekender or two so I fitted a more modern yet not out of place alternative. The rear is off a 1979 Sports. Panaracer Col de la Vie tires are fitted which are very comfy and look the business.
The Kool Stops work great but squeak terribly. Any fixes?

Here's a bunch of photos near the Canadian Parliament, from the east grounds...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...736d5a4b0b.jpg
The Canadian Parliament as seen from the grounds.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3b1111466a.jpg

1962 Plymouth Belvedere. The Raleigh was 12 years old when it was built...
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...186118d83d.jpg

A familiar face. Same year range and colour as my donor 1979 Sports.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...30383dd340.jpg

Close up of the 1949 made Cyclo 3 speed derailer. It works as well as you would expect. Crude by modern standards, but I am happy it works. Really helps the old fellow punch above his weight. After a rebuild and some fresh grease, it is fun to gently operate it.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cb03e9dc38.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1f6aa30eaf.jpg

A giant spider appears!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe6f8652f7.jpg

I found the carradice bag second hand. Ive been treating the leather bits with proofhide.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3139b1e34a.jpg

So...
Are you running a 21T cog with an 18T?

BigChief 09-11-19 05:49 AM


Originally Posted by HPL (Post 21117436)
Thank you both for the info. I certainly don't know enough about these bikes. I thought that the front looked suspiciously like a Sports, but I'm not familiar as to how many models/years that fender was used. I also did not think that either hub was original to the frame, and I was basing the year solely on the serial number. As I recall, the previous owner thought that one bike was a '36 and the other a '38; but I don't remember which was which. I'm trying to determine when the "no date" hubs were used; I don't believe I saw any date code on the "DYNOHUB" either, but I'll check again. Does the same BB assy as my '70 sports fit this model? I was assuming that most parts were interchangeable as I have extra hubs (front and rear) and a new TA or TC (?) BB. The men's frame has the top tube mounted shifter if that helps indicate a manufacturing time frame. Everything I tried to lookup for the serial gave me no specific year (could not find a "J" listing) except if following alphabetically it would be between '30 and '33 if indeed this particular model was produced back to that time frame. I hope it's not sacrilege to have this painted in a color other than black (my Sports is black); planning on both bikes to be "chrome" orange powder coated with black lugs, BB shell, fenders, chain guard, etc. As I've yet to hunt down specific parts; I was curious to know if the shift cable assy's, brake pads, and chain guard section were readily available as aftermarket parts?
Appreciate your taking time to help!

Except for the chaincase, this picture from the 1940 catalog matches your bike. Pretty sure yours is about from this period. With the enclosed chaincase, they were usually called Tourist, but old catalogs don't give us complete information. Since this bike is repainted, there's no loss in repainting it any way you want, although I would use enamel instead of powder coat myself. Mostly because it could be easily removed if someone in the future wanted to do a period correct restoration. For brake pads you have the choice between Kool Stop inserts that use the original pad holders or Fibrax which come as complete units. I like the kool stops because they are curved to match the rim. The fibrax have to wear in. I'd imagine all the ball bearings are the same as later models, but I've never had a bike this old so I can't say.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7fab880004.jpg

gster 09-11-19 06:24 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21117513)
Except for the chaincase, this picture from the 1940 catalog matches your bike. Pretty sure yours is about from this period. With the enclosed chaincase, they were usually called Tourist, but old catalogs don't give us complete information. Since this bike is repainted, there's no loss in repainting it any way you want, although I would use enamel instead of powder coat myself. Mostly because it could be easily removed if someone in the future wanted to do a period correct restoration. For brake pads you have the choice between Kool Stop inserts that use the original pad holders or Fibrax which come as complete units. I like the kool stops because they are curved to match the rim. The fibrax have to wear in. I'd imagine all the ball bearings are the same as later models, but I've never had a bike this old so I can't say.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7fab880004.jpg

BC is our resident archivist.
Big Chief (of Detectives...)

HPL 09-11-19 12:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21117513)
Except for the chaincase, this picture from the 1940 catalog matches your bike. Pretty sure yours is about from this period. With the enclosed chaincase, they were usually called Tourist, but old catalogs don't give us complete information. Since this bike is repainted, there's no loss in repainting it any way you want, although I would use enamel instead of powder coat myself. Mostly because it could be easily removed if someone in the future wanted to do a period correct restoration. For brake pads you have the choice between Kool Stop inserts that use the original pad holders or Fibrax which come as complete units. I like the kool stops because they are curved to match the rim. The fibrax have to wear in. I'd imagine all the ball bearings are the same as later models, but I've never had a bike this old so I can't say.

Thanks "Chief"! I managed to find the exact bike now that you schooled me; Model 38 Ladies "Sports C. Tourist", from a 1938 catalogue! The front "DYNOHUB" is from the 60's due to it being chromed; but it was an option in that model year per the catalogue. Let's hope it turns out as nice as it's much younger cousin, which I'm still working on even though it presently rides and looks good the way it is. Rear hub can't be earlier than 1937, developed in '36, selling in '37; and shows all the characteristics of mid 40's or earlier, so a good chance that it is OE. It did have the shifter mounted on the bars, but it should be on the "top" tube as per all the examples I've now seen, so hunting for that shifter and cable.


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21117536)
BC is our resident archivist.
Big Chief (of Detectives...)

You've got that right gster!

BigChief 09-11-19 03:07 PM


Originally Posted by HPL (Post 21118170)
Thanks "Chief"! I managed to find the exact bike now that you schooled me; Model 38 Ladies "Sports C. Tourist", from a 1938 catalogue! The front "DYNOHUB" is from the 60's due to it being chromed; but it was an option in that model year per the catalogue. Let's hope it turns out as nice as it's much younger cousin, which I'm still working on even though it presently rides and looks good the way it is. Rear hub can't be earlier than 1937, developed in '36, selling in '37; and shows all the characteristics of mid 40's or earlier, so a good chance that it is OE. It did have the shifter mounted on the bars, but it should be on the "top" tube as per all the examples I've now seen, so hunting for that shifter and cable.



You've got that right gster!

Nice looking Sports there...I don't think your Dyno Hub is from the 60s. Here's mine from my 1951 Rudge. Yours looks like an even older design than that. Sometime in the early 50s Sturmey archer changed the center part of the hub from black to chrome. Raleigh was slowly changing parts from black to chrome or zinc plating through the 1950s. Things like cable clips, shifter cases, bottom bracket spindles, shifter guide wheels and nuts and bolts. What you're looking for is called a quadrant shifter. I'm afraid real ones are pricey. I have seen reproductions on eBay for a lot less. All you need for a quadrant shifter is the inner cable. No housing necessary.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e6229b0e8e.jpg

gster 09-12-19 06:16 AM

Starting a Project
I'm feeling inspired by this concept of a 3 Speed/6 Speed conversion
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ed4bcc1f91.jpg
A '61 hub with a 20T cog dished in and an 18T dished out.
Probably not enough of a spread but it's what I had in stock to test...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9858991243.jpg

paulb_in_bkln 09-12-19 06:17 AM


Originally Posted by groth (Post 21116480)

A foldcycle yes, but not a Brompton. Dahon, maybe?

groth 09-12-19 07:26 AM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 21119125)
A foldcycle yes, but not a Brompton. Dahon, maybe?

You're correct - it's a Dahon.

Ged117 09-12-19 08:33 AM

Gster - great project idea. I think I've got the cable dialed in properly, thanks for the tips Chief, Bomarc, and Gster. High, Normal, and Low all engage now. It was tricky getting Low or 1st to work without slipping and adjusting gently so that all were equal. I think it is OK now, we will see. This morning I took a 16 kilometer ride (following my girlfriend to work for her first ever ride-to-work day aboard her early '90s Bianchi Main Street, an early hybrid with a Tange steel frame). The Raleigh is so fun to ride - and comfy. I may look for a longer stem - maybe from a Raleigh Twenty? I'm all legs so the bars could be higher.

The Cyclo 3 speed set up helps in that the big cog has 21 teeth, so the AG in Low and the chain on the big cog makes for an easy going ride, and is useful for reasonable hills. It also helps when I shift the AG into Normal or High gear as its on the 21T cog. I experimented a little, switched into High, and moved the chain to the second sprocket (it is either 17T or 19T I forget) this morning, and the dapper old fellow really boogied along the flat river path with some gentle encouragement. I don't know about taking the bike beyond 30 km/h, I think it calls for gentle ride moods or a steady pace over distances. I've also eliminated the brake squeal by toeing in the rear calipers taken from the '79 Sports, adjusting the Tektro 800a mounted front pads, as well as tightening up the mount bolt. With the Kool Stops, the bike will stop quite well. I'm impressed by its comfort and durability. Cheers to the builders of these machines.

It is really fun to ride a machine that has been brought back to life after decades in the dark.

JaccoW 09-12-19 10:27 AM

I'd love to build a bike around one of those cyclo conversions. They tech seems just really cool to me

PeterLYoung 09-12-19 11:14 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21117491)
Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...60ad0c3594.jpg
Two rear wheels waiting for frames..
FG is a 1965 hub with the EA1 rim
behind is a '61 hub with a standard EA3 Dunlop rim with new rubber.
It was a VERY tight fit.
I would say the rarest part on these hubs is the oil cap.
I'd like to get my hands on a box of NOS caps....

Those Oil Caps are hard to find but do turn up on eBay from time to time, I have removed several while doing restoration work and put them in a 'safe place' only to not be able to find them 6 months later. My tip is to put them in a medium sized 'Ziplok' bag so they are effectively too large to lose.

Salubrious 09-12-19 11:21 AM

I ride to work any day I can. Its been raining hard a good portion of this week but I have good rain gear.

However after stopping at the grocery store when I got back to my bike it had fallen over because of a flat rear tire. This is the third time this tire (Col De Vrie) has gone flat. I think I'm done with them; I rode my Michelins until the compounds literally perished but the Col De Vries are only a few weeks old. I like their ride but in my urban environment they don't seem practical. Fortunately I was too lazy to change out the front tire (still the Michelin) so I can put the remaining Col De Vrie on ebay as brand new.

IME the Kendas are a better tire for less money...

adventurepdx 09-12-19 12:51 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21119588)
This is the third time this tire (Col De Vrie)(sic) has gone flat. I think I'm done with them; I rode my Michelins until the compounds literally perished but the Col De Vries are only a few weeks old. I like their ride but in my urban environment they don't seem practical. Fortunately I was too lazy to change out the front tire (still the Michelin) so I can put the remaining Col De Vrie on ebay as brand new.

IME the Kendas are a better tire for less money...

What pressure are you running the Col de la Vies at?

When I got the first set of Col de la Vies maybe five years ago, I was also getting flats consistently. But I was also trying to run them at a pressure closer to what I would run on the Delta Cruisers. I think I had them at 50-55 psi, which is actually over the max listed 45. I just thought 45 psi was too low. Someone I knew who had them told me it wasn't a problem to run them higher, so I did. Because of the bad luck I had with them, I avoided them for a few years.

But then a couple years back I decided to try the Col de la Vies again. This time, I decided to keep them at 40-45 psi. And I got a lot less flats. Maybe the original pair I had came from a bad batch, I don't know. But it definitely seems like lowering the psi solved the problem. The one big thing about running such narrow tires at that pressure is you have to be more on it with inflating.

I still have a set of Col de la Vies on my "sportier" three speed, since I use it less, and ride it less loaded. I switched back to Schwalbe Delta Cruisers for my Superbe. I find them to be the best balance of price, durability, ride quality, and (especially) looks. They're making a cream-walled version in 650A, which looks very nice.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...999d9b253a.jpg

Salubrious 09-12-19 01:21 PM

I've been running them at about 50 pounds. What's been happening each time is the inner tube was punctured.

ascherer 09-12-19 03:31 PM

From the Department of Anecdotal Evidence:

I run my Col de la Vies at roughly 50 rear and 45 front. Mostly commuting and errands in Manhattan, somewhere around 2000 miles on them. Recently got my first flat, snakebites from hitting a construction plate too hard.

adventurepdx 09-12-19 04:17 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21119776)
I've been running them at about 50 pounds. What's been happening each time is the inner tube was punctured.

Try them at 40-45 and see if it lessens the punctures. I usually do 40 front/45 rear, and I'm no lightweight.

paulb_in_bkln 09-13-19 06:08 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21119588)
I ride to work any day I can. Its been raining hard a good portion of this week but I have good rain gear.

However after stopping at the grocery store when I got back to my bike it had fallen over because of a flat rear tire. This is the third time this tire (Col De Vrie) has gone flat. I think I'm done with them; I rode my Michelins until the compounds literally perished but the Col De Vries are only a few weeks old. I like their ride but in my urban environment they don't seem practical. Fortunately I was too lazy to change out the front tire (still the Michelin) so I can put the remaining Col De Vrie on ebay as brand new.

IME the Kendas are a better tire for less money...

My impression is they're not intended to be an urban or commuting tire at least not where you're likely to encounter debris. I stand by my wish that Grant had revived 650A, not B. Then we'd now have lots of good tires to choose. I'm liking the Panaracer Ribmos my LBS sold me a couple months ago (700c size on a different bike). But I've not had much luck with Kendas of any size. The sidewalls always seem to shred.

gster 09-13-19 06:54 AM

Conversion..
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa343c06c9.jpg
I've attached the derailleur to the drop out.
I needed to expand the opening slightly to accept the backer.
Not enough to prevent returning to original.
Cogs are now 17 and 20.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af6f50b672.jpg
I've got a single SA throttle shifter to try.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cb40e4d41d.jpg
I just need a new chain to test.

Ged117 09-13-19 09:18 AM


Originally Posted by ascherer (Post 21120009)
From the Department of Anecdotal Evidence:

I run my Col de la Vies at roughly 50 rear and 45 front. Mostly commuting and errands in Manhattan, somewhere around 2000 miles on them. Recently got my first flat, snakebites from hitting a construction plate too hard.

I've set up the Superbe's tires just the same. They aren't cheap so I hope my experience will be like yours has been. They ride so pleasantly like all panaracer tires. I have Pasela PT on my touring bike and regular Pasela yellow sticker tires on the Peugeot. My Superbe will see commutes, day rides, and the odd weekender, so I'll stick with 45 and 50ish or a little less.

tmac100 09-13-19 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 21120085)
Try them at 40-45 and see if it lessens the punctures. I usually do 40 front/45 rear, and I'm no lightweight.

I had issues with sidewall failures on my rear wheel (26") when I pumped my Schwalbe Marathons to 50 psi. Finally I decided to buy a large pump and a Schwalbe digital gauge instead of using my small compact pump and cheapo car tire pressure gauge that maxed at 50 psi.

At 65 to 70 psi I have NOT had anymore tyre failures - and that was while travelling from Perth, Australia to Sydney. My bike is fully loaded as I am an unsupported tourer.

adventurepdx 09-13-19 11:56 AM


Originally Posted by tmac100 (Post 21121284)
I had issues with sidewall failures on my rear wheel (26") when I pumped my Schwalbe Marathons to 50 psi. Finally I decided to buy a large pump and a Schwalbe digital gauge instead of using my small compact pump and cheapo car tire pressure gauge that maxed at 50 psi.

At 65 to 70 psi I have NOT had anymore tyre failures - and that was while travelling from Perth, Australia to Sydney. My bike is fully loaded as I am an unsupported tourer.

But we're talking about two different tires here. Panaracers are generally lighter, more supple than Schwalbes. Suppler tires typically run at lower pressures. For example, my Schwalbe Delta Cruisers are rated 65-85psi, so I run them 65 in front, 70 in rear.


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