Help removing rear cassette (SEE PIC)
 

I need help removing the rear casette from a sparta ion wheel. I have the tool that fits in the casette and a chain whip, i tried but it is not moving, what is the correct method?

@Rooster Ren - Welcome to BF
1. Pictures are needed, either a link to a web hosted site or post it in you albums under your profile
2. You may have a freewheel instead of a cassette, don't know without knowing more.
3. If you want to remove the sprockets, it is easy if you have a cassette but need two chain whips for a freewheel.
4.A cassette should come off easily with a retaining ring with a counter clock rotation. The tool is typically splined
5. If it is a freewheel, the tool could have splines or lugs in quantity of 2 or four.

Read this: Shimano Cassettes & Freehubs (sheldonbrown.com)

Tried looking at specs on the Sparta website: No Ion model listed, no specs under any bike. But many are 7 speed, and those are usually freewheels, not cassettes. Freewheels need a freewheel tool and a wrench - no chain whip.

Pic Assist - https://www.bikeforums.net/g/picture/33089631

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...918d6e36fc.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4750589602.jpg

That's a freewheel. Tool in freewheel, wrench on tool, hold the wheel and turn counterclockwise. No chainwhip.

Also, if it's really stuck on there, put your quick release skewer through the tool and axle to hold it in place and have it tight enough to leave a little bit of play to allow the freewheel to turn a bit when it breaks free. This will allow you to put all your effort into the wrench and not worry the tool will pop out and fecker up the splines.

Freewheel removal tool placed in bench vise...wheel with freewheel side down is placed onto removal tool...turn wheel counter/anti clock wise...
While you can use an adjustable wrench the bench vise method provides more leverage?
You may have to give the wheel a mighty turn to break the freewheel free of the hub...most likely you will.
Reverse the above method to reinstall/install the freewheel

That's always the method we used. Much less chance of buggering up the splines.

Regarding freewheels in general, they can be screwed on pretty tight, since the pedaling action tightens the mounting screw onto the hub. The bench vise method works best since you have a pretty good lever arm (the wheel) to break the joint free. (Some people liken it to a bus driver making a turn.) But if you don't have a bench vise, leave the inflated tire on the bike. Then place wheel vertical on the ground. Position your self over the wheel and use a long wrench (in the horizontal position) and use your weight to unscrew the freewheel. It's a great feeling when it breaks loose. And always a good idea to use the skewer or axle nut to loosely retain the tool into the splines. When re-installing grease the threads.

And if it's really tight, like tandem tight, have someone else lend a hand.

Agree, except for "use the skewer or axle nut to loosely retain the tool into the splines."

There's no downside to clamping the tool with the same (high) force you use to reinstall the wheel in the bike. Once the freewheel has moved even 2 or 3 degrees, the battle has been won. You can then begin loosening the skewer or axle a turn or so at a time while you continue to unscrew the freewheel.

There is a potential downside to not doing so, as holding some tools loosely and attempting to remove some hard-to-remove freewheels can result in damage to the freewheel and/or the tool. I once watched a mechanic in our shop ruin two remover tools in succession before I stepped in.

Shimano splined tools like the OP is using, or toothed tools like Suntour? I've never seen anyone use a QR on the spline type, or seen those tools fail.

Another method for freewheels if you've still got the tire on and don't have a decent vice:

Lock removal tool with QR.
Get a long wrench.
Put the wheel against a brick wall on a hard (cement or tarmac for example) floor - so the tire grips on the floor and the bricks.
Apply the wrench about horizontal and push down.

Good idea. The street curb may suffice?
IF you have a helper, have the strong one hold the wheel and the weak one step on the horizontally positioned wrench.

Is that the correct tool, though? That looks like the tool for removing cassette lock rings, not freewheels. THe spline patters on the two are generally slightly different and so they are not perfectly cross-compatible. Also, freewheel spline tools are generally longer so there is more contact between the tool splines and the freewheel splines.

Thanks for the clarification! You're right, of course. I was thinking of the two-pronged tools used for Suntour and the like.

If the wrench is horizontal the downward pressure pushes the tyre into the floor and the wall and there's plenty of grip.

My suggestion was for those of less opportunity.
I just use the outside door jamb of my garage if necessary & box end of my 1" combination wrench. It's never failed me.

Cassette lockring tools are much shorter.