Looking for advice: commuting with a vintage MTB
ciao!
I plan to restore a vintage (1990) Diamond Back Apex to use as all-around bike and for commuting (when we will be allowed to return to office...) The plan is very simple: - change tyres - change saddle - service brakes, shifters, chain etc. For the tyres I would like to mount a pair of Schwalbe Big Apple: do you recommend them? Would you choose 50-559 (26 x 2.00) or 55-559 (26 x 2.15)? I read that I should mount a rim tape to avoid spoke nipples to interact with the air tube: have you some reco on this? thank you very much! |
From 1997 to 2015 my main commuter was a 1997 Nishiki Blazer MTB. Then it became my snow bike and utility bike with studded snow tires in the winter. For the other seasons, three years ago I put supple 26x1.86 WTB-brand slicks on it and it transformed the bike into a super fun, fast, but heavy bike. Last fall I converted it to drop bars.
https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting...ig-bouncy.html https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...converted.html The one thing I would add to your list is gearing. When I bought the bike the gearing was not high enough for high-speed cruising. That was rectified by replacing the big chainring in front with the largest that would physically fit the frame (53). Good luck, have fun and let us know how it turns out! |
For commuting, the 2.0s are quite sufficient IMO. Couple wraps with strapping tape is my preferred rim tape(tape with filaments). Pair of sks fenders and you’ve got yourself a heck of a commuter! Best wishes
|
Originally Posted by BobbyG
(Post 21566840)
From 1997 to 2015 my main commuter was a 1997 Nishiki Blazer MTB. Then it became my snow bike and utility bike with studded snow tires in the winter. For the other seasons, three years ago I put supple 26x1.86 WTB-brand slicks on it and it transformed the bike into a super fun, fast, but heavy bike. Last fall I converted it to drop bars.
I'm not sure I will use the bike in bad weather, but who knows?
Originally Posted by BobbyG
(Post 21566840)
The one thing I would add to your list is gearing. When I bought the bike the gearing was not high enough for high-speed cruising. That was rectified by replacing the big chainring in front with the largest that would physically fit the frame (53).
Right now I would like to keep the bike as original as possible and to keep restoring work at a minimum.
Originally Posted by BobbyG
(Post 21566840)
Good luck, have fun and let us know how it turns out!
|
Be cautious with tire width. I've got a mountain bike from that era and I find that some 2.0 tires fit and some don't, including different tread models from the same manufacturer. In my case the tight spot is between the chainstays; no idea on yours.
I'd make sure I'm in a position to install/test if you're putting on something that is pushing the limits of clearance. Sort of like trying on shoes. |
Originally Posted by frankenmike
(Post 21566936)
For commuting, the 2.0s are quite sufficient IMO.
Originally Posted by frankenmike
(Post 21566936)
Couple wraps with strapping tape is my preferred rim tape(tape with filaments). Pair of sks fenders and you’ve got yourself a heck of a commuter! Best wishes
I saw a precut Schwalbe rim tape but can't understand the sice to order (on Amazon there is no relation with the wheels size): are you suggesting to buy a roll of tape and not a precut one, right? at the monment I don't plan to mount fenders because the idea is to use it only with good weather (then I know that weather changes...) |
Originally Posted by Sauternes
(Post 21566971)
Thank you for your advice, if I understand well (in a total newbie...) the "2" is the width in inches, so 5cm: if this is correct I think that being wider will not add any benefit and will affect rolling.
Can you suggest some brand of rim type? I saw a precut Schwalbe rim tape but can't understand the sice to order (on Amazon there is no relation with the wheels size): are you suggesting to buy a roll of tape and not a precut one, right? at the monment I don't plan to mount fenders because the idea is to use it only with good weather (then I know that weather changes...) |
I’d go a size smaller on the tires, personally. My MTB doubles as my commuter so it wears 2.8 knobs but if I had a dedicated commuter again it’d have 1.5 ish tires
|
1.5" smooth tread or slick tires makes a huge difference in ease of riding and I find them a lot faster than 2" tires.
Cheers |
Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
(Post 21566995)
I’d go a size smaller on the tires, personally. My MTB doubles as my commuter so it wears 2.8 knobs but if I had a dedicated commuter again it’d have 1.5 ish tires
- I don't know which is the minimum size I can mount on my wheels, original tyres of my Apex were pretty wide, did you mount your 1,5" tyres on regular MTB wheels? - the second point is aesthetic: even if I want the bike to be as smoothly rolling as possible I don't want to put on tyres that don't look adequate to the overall design of the bike |
I use the Big Apple 2.15's for commuting on my 1996 GT Outpost MTB. They fit fine and there's enough clearance all around them; however, as someone else mentioned, make sure the 2.15's clear your frame.
Also, depending on how your brakes are set up, you want to be sure that if you remove your front wheel when you get to work, you have enough clearance to get it through the brake pads without deflating the tire. |
Originally Posted by Papa Tom
(Post 21568372)
I use the Big Apple 2.15's for commuting on my 1996 GT Outpost MTB. They fit fine and there's enough clearance all around them; however, as someone else mentioned, make sure the 2.15's clear your frame.
Currently I have 2,15” off-road sizes, and I think I will go for 2”.
Originally Posted by Papa Tom
(Post 21568372)
Also, depending on how your brakes are set up, you want to be sure that if you remove your front wheel when you get to work, you have enough clearance to get it through the brake pads without deflating the tire.
Even if I’m not an expert I don’t think this will be a problem since it is very easy to remove the wires from the brakes arms in order to widen the gap between pads if needed. |
Leave it with knobs and look for places to use it as a mountain bike on the way to work.Riding to work on the same route can get tedious. Both of these do commuting duty on a regular basis.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...57f07f00_k.jpgUntitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6a212c98_k.jpgUntitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr |
Originally Posted by Sauternes
(Post 21567084)
Good point, I have 2 issues with "thinner" tyres:
- I don't know which is the minimum size I can mount on my wheels, original tyres of my Apex were pretty wide, did you mount your 1,5" tyres on regular MTB wheels? - the second point is aesthetic: even if I want the bike to be as smoothly rolling as possible I don't want to put on tyres that don't look adequate to the overall design of the bike - that's a good reason |
here's my apex set up for daily use/abuse/commutes. i've got 2" big apples and sks fenders with tons of clearance left over. if this wasn't a parts bin build and i didn't just have the 2" laying around, i would've gone for the 2.35s, which is what i suggest for you. don't listen those suggesting a wide tire doesn't roll as fast - they do, and you'll be way more comfortable than you might be on 1.5".
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...068b3dfbf3.jpg |
'95 Trek 800 Sport: started with 1.95, 2.1 just barely fits with rubbing if mildly deflated. Happily running 1.75, now, and going 1.5 on the next go round. Currently riding smooth and steady :) on Impact Streetpacs (Schwalbe)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3ade200688.jpg FRANKENTREK Being budget minded, thinner tires use less rubber and can cost less, ymmv.... |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 21568764)
Leave it with knobs and look for places to use it as a mountain bike on the way to work.Riding to work on the same route can get tedious. Both of these do commuting duty on a regular basis.
I really like your bikes, especially the fact that they look "raw" i.e. without any paint (but form the photos I can't tell if it is the bare metal or a paintjob). As a matter of fact when I will decide to invest some seriuos money into a bike I will buy a Schindelhauer, a German manufacturer of "minimal bikes" that can be bought with a raw alluminium finishing. I can't post links to external websites since I'm a newbie, but if you don't know them I really suggest to have a look. |
Originally Posted by basketbro
(Post 21569994)
here's my apex set up for daily use/abuse/commutes. i've got 2" big apples and sks fenders with tons of clearance left over. if this wasn't a parts bin build and i didn't just have the 2" laying around, i would've gone for the 2.35s, which is what i suggest for you. don't listen those suggesting a wide tire doesn't roll as fast - they do, and you'll be way more comfortable than you might be on 1.5".
Being also an avid music listener and interestd in hi-fi I see a SMSL digital amplifier paired with what looks like a pair of ELAC Debut B4 or B5: how does this combo sound? |
Originally Posted by Sauternes
(Post 21570755)
I live in Parma, in the heart of "pianura Padana" one of the flattest places on earth!
I really like your bikes, especially the fact that they look "raw" i.e. without any paint (but form the photos I can't tell if it is the bare metal or a paintjob). As a matter of fact when I will decide to invest some seriuos money into a bike I will buy a Schindelhauer, a German manufacturer of "minimal bikes" that can be bought with a raw alluminium finishing. I can't post links to external websites since I'm a newbie, but if you don't know them I really suggest to have a look. The bikes I posted are both titanium. It’s usually not painted because it doesn’t need it. It’s inert to most any chemical so it won’t oxidize. Unpainted it also shows off that it is titanium. You pay for the cachet so you might as well show it off. |
Originally Posted by Sauternes
(Post 21570760)
I see a SMSL digital amplifier paired with what looks like a pair of ELAC Debut B4 or B5: how does this combo sound?
|
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c3e281f8e5.jpg
My 98 GT MTB converted to a cargo bike with 2.15 Schwalbe Big Apples. I like the lower gearing when I have a load on the bike although that isn't as much of an issue now that its converted to e-assist. But I've not had any issues with tire clearance and it rolls pretty well (for a 100lb bike anyways). I currently commute 4 miles each way and it's 6 miles to the grocery store each week. |
Originally Posted by cabledawg
(Post 21577803)
My 98 GT MTB converted to a cargo bike with 2.15 Schwalbe Big Apples. I like the lower gearing when I have a load on the bike although that isn't as much of an issue now that its converted to e-assist. But I've not had any issues with tire clearance and it rolls pretty well (for a 100lb bike anyways). I currently commute 4 miles each way and it's 6 miles to the grocery store each week. I'm convinced with the Big Apples since I don't want the tyres to look too thin in comparison with the bike. I only have to find the best buying option here in Italy and then decide which rim tape (if any) to put on the interior of the wheels. |
It's a beast and a work in progress over the years. It's a hodgepodge of different brands and parts, basically whatever I felt needed to be changed or added to make it more versatile. Because the more versatile it becomes, the less I need to drive the car to do my daily activities. And now that I can haul my mountain bike on the back I can ride the 7 or so miles to the dirt trails. The only downside to this behemoth is that it doesn't fit in or on my car so that limits it's use to my local area.
|
Running 26 x 1.95 on my 1987 Schwinn Impact commuter bike and I have mixed feelings. They handle comfortably in Chicago's pothole covered streets for my day to day 3-7 mile rides, though during longer rides I do feel their bulk and tread as an impediment.
|
My '92 RockHopper has room for 2.1" Maxxis DTHs and fenders. They're fast, supple, and grippy (judging by the gravel pinging inside my fenders).
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:19 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.