Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19631303)

Thanks @ BigChief & [MENTION=301310]gster[/MENTION]. Your glider is slick. I can't wait to see how it progresses.
The 2-speed kickback takes practice. You don't really "kick" back, cause if you do you'll slam on the coaster brake and skid. Mr. VV did that as he cruised down the driveway!
It's a very small "flick" - doesn't take more than that. Another thing I noted is that when I'm coasting, if I move my pedals backwards even a very slight amount the gears change. So if I just want to coast and not shift a gear, I must keep my feet perfectly still.
I am going to have to experiment on how to apply the coaster brake and not shift a gear. I think I can't be tentative with the coaster brake. I need to commit and apply brakes more rapidly.

The other thing is having your foot in the correct position when you stop. On a traditionally geared bike I stop, then do a quick backpedal with my left foot to get my "starting" pedal in the correct position. Can't do that on this bike. You just apply the brake. I'll just be mindful to have my left pedal in the correct position when I stop.
The kick-back hub comes with a 22t dished cog, but I went with a dished 18 tooth cog. I want the harder gear to be my usual gear and the easier one for hills.


Now about the saddle. The B67 S was reportedly only ridden a total of "5 times", and sellers wife didn't like the springs. There are two deep "sit bones" divots on this saddle, so either she road it soaking wet or her 5 rides were really long. You can tell by the stiffness of the leather that's it's very new, but not sure how those divots got there.

Originally Posted by gster (Post 19634561)

My understanding is the Kick back hub was originally developed for a folding bike in order to eliminate the two cables running to the back.

Originally Posted by gster (Post 19634561)

My understanding is the Kick back hub was originally developed for a folding bike in order to eliminate the two cables running to the back.
It does require a different riding style.

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19634983)

@gster - that is interesting and makes a lot of sense. Was it Fitchel (sp) & Sachs who created the first kickback? Seems like it was someone other than the Sturmey & Archer boys.
@clubman - Thank you for the compliment.
I've used naval jelly to remove small amount of rust where the paint is scratched, and want to prevent further rust. What would you recommend? Clear nail polish or clear lacquer? For some reason I sense that lacquer would be shinier. There is a hobby store nearby that has a plethora of lacquers in small bottles.

Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 19635184)

Bendix originally made their 2-speed with a shift lever that looked a lot like a handbrake. Later they made the kickback versions, but not for folding bikes, just because the hub already employed a coaster brake anyway. They were available with 36 holes. The hubs for the 20" wheels are more rare as they were made later for the 'Stingrays' and the like, not folding bikes!

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19636444)

Wonder how much a working, used Bendix would cost?
I am having a lot of fun on this little bike. In fact, whoever here told my my wobbly feeling pedal was due to a bent crank arm was right. @gugie was able to help it a little, but I don't know if he had a "cheater pipe". The NDS crankarm is slightly bent toward midline of the bike. It is notably improved, so I don't know if it's worth it for me to remove and have my LBS give it a go. I do know they have some long cheater bars.

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19636882)

Yeah, I take the pedal off and use a 3 ft long 1 1/2" pipe. I like 1 1/2" because there's plenty of room to fold up some cardboard and use it as a cushion so the edge of the pipe doesn't dig into the crank arm as I apply pressure. I could have enlisted my wife to hold the bike for me but I always have a handy wood pile to lean the bike up against. I hold the seat tube with one hand and pull the pipe with the other. These arms bend easier than you would think.

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19636444)

Wonder how much a working, used Bendix would cost?

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19637252)

Good morning @BigChief - thank you! Now I gotta go buy a pipe. I work for a plumbing co., so I bet I could borrow a pipe! ;)
I don't have a spare exact crank arm, but I've got metal rulers & digital calipers.
I presume this won't hurt the heavy bb spindle?

Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 19637479)

They vary from $5 to $75 depending on where you find them. BTW you will want the blue band, not the red or yellow. The blue band is an overdrive unit and is more suited to use with 20" wheels. Expect to rebuild the unit!

I've managed to straighten cranks arms without damage to the bearings or spindle. Think about what it took to bend it in the first place :)

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19637022)

I forgot to mention. The best check is to put the pedal back and test ride, but you can save some time by holding a spare crank arm against the one you're adjusting. When the light between the two arms is symmetrical like this, you're close. This arm was badly bent. I took this picture before I did the test ride and it was spot on. No wobble. Didn't need any further bending.

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...h/crank001.jpg

Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19640219)

Does anyone know how to use a coaster brake with a kickback hub, without causing it to shift gears? Is it even possible? Do I need more practice & finess?

No biggie. Just curious.