Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 21230095)
Flashlights or "electric torches" became available around 1910 or so. I'm guessing a lamp from 1926 would use that technology.
I'm not sure when the original 8 volt sturmey archer dynohub became available. if anyone was interested. |
Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.
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Originally Posted by Alloyboy
(Post 21230160)
Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.
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Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21230278)
The seller also has several vintage bike lanterns for sale as well.
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Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 21228491)
It can be a lot of work selling parts if you have to research what's in your inventory. Tools are always in demand. If you take your time, introduce yourself and make 10 posts, you'll be able to show some pics and get informed opinions. If you give a location, there could be someone ready and willing to help you.
I do have a good assortment of tools, not the least of which is a Park 2-bike workstand, the professional one with the heavy steel plate. I already have one or else I'd keep it. This one is a true vintage item with a cast tool tray. I'll be keeping some of the tools for myself and sending some to my son, but after that we'll see what's left. Anything specific to 3-speeds or Bendix work will likely go up for sale. Interesting thought, seeing if someone wants to wade in with me! I'll keep it in mind. |
Originally Posted by Ballenxj
(Post 21228667)
I think you need to get your ten posts so you can post images of what you've got here. I'm sure somebody here might be interested in your 3 speed stuff.
Oh, Welcome to the Forum! :) |
Originally Posted by Alloyboy
(Post 21230287)
Thank you gster, I am no longer confident venturing out near or after dusk. Stay warm.
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Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21230079)
Interesting
Listed on Kijiji Toronto as a 1926 Hercules 2 speed.... Seller is asking $650.00 https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1475150198 |
Originally Posted by Murray Missile
(Post 21228921)
Any "love" for Canadian 5 speeds here LOL? It "looks" British, it has 3 speeds (plus 2) and Canada is a member of the Commonwealth so......
I was given a Baycrest Hurricane that I believe is from the 1970's. It's a 23 inch men's lugged frame, most certainly HiTen, with stamped dropouts, not a single braze on and 26 inch (590) wheels. The only reason I'm posting it here is because the mods I was going to make to my '77 Raleigh LTD 3 I posted several weeks ago are going to be made to this poor old rusty lump instead and I will keep the LTD close to original. The rust covered fenders are totally straight and dent free, they will get roughed up and painted to match the frame. I'll switch it over to 26 inch MTB (559) wheels and I have several vintage sets of long reach caliper brakes that should work. I'll replace the crappy nylon cable guides with vintage Suntour clamp on guides and try to keep it as vintage looking as possible. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cc8c24d05a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5aaafda32e.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d69650260f.jpg Probably made in Japan. Hey, i just turned an Eatons Villager into an S/A 3 speed for a friend and it turned out quite nice. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ae1da0e02.jpg Nothing special but presentable. The frame came from the trash (I suspect Bridgestone) and I had most parts on hand and didn't spend much New chain and pads and a couple pf cables. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21231524)
These were built for the Hudson's Bay department store chain (The Bay).
Probably made in Japan. Hey, i just turned an Eatons Villager into an S/A 3 speed for a friend and it turned out quite nice. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ae1da0e02.jpg Nothing special but presentable. The frame came from the trash (I suspect Bridgestone) and I had most parts on hand and didn't spend much New chain and pads and a couple pf cables. Just picked the Baycrest up a little bit ago, I didn't have room for it Saturday. I hadn't really looked it over, I just heard "free" and figured why not? Paint is pretty rough as are the top and down tube decals, but I think most of the chrome will clean up fairly well, I'll give it a shot anyway. I tweaked the front fender loading it but not too bad, I can make it right again. It's a chunk though, that's for sure, the only aluminum I can see is the SR stem and the Esge kickstand, I'll have to do something about that LOL. I won't get to it until next year so a lot could change as far as my intentions. It was too dark by the time I got home to take a better picture, I'll try to get one tomorrow after work. |
Originally Posted by Murray Missile
(Post 21232204)
I like it.
Just picked the Baycrest up a little bit ago, I didn't have room for it Saturday. I hadn't really looked it over, I just heard "free" and figured why not? Paint is pretty rough as are the top and down tube decals, but I think most of the chrome will clean up fairly well, I'll give it a shot anyway. I tweaked the front fender loading it but not too bad, I can make it right again. It's a chunk though, that's for sure, the only aluminum I can see is the SR stem and the Esge kickstand, I'll have to do something about that LOL. I won't get to it until next year so a lot could change as far as my intentions. It was too dark by the time I got home to take a better picture, I'll try to get one tomorrow after work. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21232364)
I drag a lot of junk home as well....
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Originally Posted by Alloyboy
(Post 21230160)
Thank you gster for the memories, the little carbide pellets certainly were evil smelling. I think they were made of calcium and became acetalene when the droplets of water dripped down from the water chamber. This takes me back to the 1940's with the cycling club. Jim.
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Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 21228992)
Here are two 3 speeds in Pasadena, MD. The seller is asking $100 for both. It looks as if the step-through has a bent fork though.
https://annapolis.craigslist.org/bik...023576725.html |
SEARS used Puch/Steyr.
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Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 21235046)
SEARS used Puch/Steyer.
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Originally Posted by Murray Missile
(Post 21233534)
Yeah, I suspect I may have paid too much for this one LOL. Nah, it's not "that" bad, I can make something out of it with what I have on hand. It probably still won't be worth my initial purchase price but I'll have fun.
Took a good look at the Baycrest today, it says "MADE in CANADA" on the seat tube. DANG it's heavy and the frame lugs have very crude weld seams down the middle of them, I think they're more cosmetic than structural. I'm not going to put much time or money into this one. I may just pull the SR stem and Esge kickstand and set the rest on the curb. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21228062)
I'd say $50.00 was a great deal.
I pay that for a nice used saddle. And yes, a smaller frame can be a nice city bike with some modifications for a tall rider. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...666949c8a2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4190980a76.jpg I don't have any Proofide but I rubbed it down with a blend of goose fat and beeswax and will gingerly ride it next spring. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d881a8eaf7.jpg Still no sunshine today but I snapped these before I took it down to the basement. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39e0bdc2ce.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3ec5cc9b4c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fbaac6890a.jpg |
B72
The saddle looks fine too me. That is just normal wear and tear. Just don’t stretch it any more.
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
(Post 21238339)
The saddle looks fine too me. That is just normal wear and tear. Just don’t stretch it any more.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...28f1cd8ff.jpeg |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21238645)
Darn, looks like somebody hammered the drive side cotter and gave up on removing it. If this is a problem you've not experienced before, my advise is not to even start to remove it unless you have a sharp fine point center punch and a sharp drill set. Dull or inadequate tools will make a mess of things.
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Originally Posted by Murray Missile
(Post 21236818)
Took a good look at the Baycrest today, it says "MADE in CANADA" on the seat tube. DANG it's heavy and the frame lugs have very crude weld seams down the middle of them, I think they're more cosmetic than structural. I'm not going to put much time or money into this one. I may just pull the SR stem and Esge kickstand and set the rest on the curb.
Looking around one day, with some free time I decided to put a quick "Bitsa" together... The recipient was very pleased. |
Originally Posted by FBOATSB
(Post 21238240)
I don't know about this saddle, up close there seems to some dry rot around the rivets.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...666949c8a2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4190980a76.jpg I don't have any Proofide but I rubbed it down with a blend of goose fat and beeswax and will gingerly ride it next spring. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d881a8eaf7.jpg Still no sunshine today but I snapped these before I took it down to the basement. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39e0bdc2ce.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3ec5cc9b4c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fbaac6890a.jpg |
Originally Posted by FBOATSB
(Post 21238753)
Yes, hammered it and folded it over then gave up:). I'm glad they stopped there. I can press it out proper.
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I stayed away from cottered cranks for that reason. Recently picked up a really nice Park tool vice. Put some pressure on and give it a tap and those pins come right out.
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Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 21240255)
I stayed away from cottered cranks for that reason. Recently picked up a really nice Park tool vice. Put some pressure on and give it a tap and those pins come right out.
If you have a cotter pin press on hand, installation and removal of cottered cranks is easier and more reliable than alloy cranks on square tapers. I really don't like creaky cranks. There are two of the vintage Park cotter pin presses on ebay right now. |
I would say that cotter pin removal is the number 1 topic on this forum...
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Where is everyone buying their Sun CR18 rims at? I need a pair and not sure where to get them.
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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21239997)
It is good that they stopped, but in my experience once the threaded section starts to bend, a press will only bend it more. Then, even if it does come loose, it won't fit out the hole past the spindle.I think it would be best to tape up the crank arm and hack saw off the bent section of the cotter. I suppose it's not necessary, but I like to center punch the new end and start with a small drill and work up to bigger drill so the top of the cotter has a counter sink that will hold the punch so it won't slip off and mar the crank arm. The counter sink also helps direct the force of the hammer blows in the direction it's needed. The important part is that I support the crank arm as I drive the cotter. Luckily I have a cement floor in my cellar. I put the bike in the stand, up off the tires. Then I fit a 2x4 with a hole drilled in the end grain to clear the cotter between the hard floor and the crank arm. Then I drive the cotter out with a hefty punch and hammer. So far, this has always worked for me, but I have seen other posts here where people had to drill all the way through to weaken the cotter enough to be able to drive it out. Good luck.
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