The di2 thread
Hello all, I’ve searched for di2 info and started a few threads of my own but you have to do a lot of digging to find what you’re looking for, so I thought I would start this post with a few things I’ve learned and hopefully some of you guru’s can add your knowledge here. I can’t take credit for all of this as much of what I’ll add came from others.
Re-center front derailleur. I moved my di2 from my old frame to my new, the front derailleur trim was all the way inboard as far as it would go and I still needed a couple more steps. -What I did: 1 placed it in big ring/big cog, then went to trim mode and went outboard 12 steps on the front der to get it back to center. 2 cancelled trim mode. 3 went to big ring/little cog and adjusted the high. 4 went to little ring/big cog and adjusted the low. 5 went to big ring/big cog, then back to trim mode, then adjusted inboard a couple steps. This was my original problem it was pegged out inboard and I needed a couple more steps to prevent rubbing (even though I rarely use this combo) - the Shimano tool you might need to insert or remove your cables is Shimano TL-EW01 Di2 Wiring Plug Tool. I’ve done it with needle nose pliers but they suggest using this tool. When inserting make sure you push until you feel a “click”. - if you install yourself something I’ve learned is you don’t have to connect your cables to your J box or A box in any certain order, just shove them into whatever port you want and the system will figure it all out. - Park tool makes a nifty little tool set you can buy that makes running cables much easier. It’s a little pricey but if you’re gonna do it more than once it might be worth it. You can find it here One more thing I thought I would add is when researching this I found that you don’t have to have e-tube to put your bike into synchronized shifting mode. You can do it by pressing the button on the bottom of the A box. Press twice and the lights come on steady, this means you’re in manual mode. Quickly double press again and the lights blink twice telling you you’re now in semi synchro mode. Press twice again and the lights blink 3 times, now you’re in full synchro. I tested it and it works. Some helpful links: Shimano e-tube manual pdf A good Di2 installation article Di2 crash recovery mode Ultegra 8050 di2 manual pdf A thread about rear derailleur di2 Shimano tech doc search Ultegra 6870 di2 manual pdf I’ll add more as I discover them but if anybody has some wisdom or articles to share please do. |
Thanks for the followup. It is rarely as complicated as it originally seemed. Although how Shimano can
create a tech doc near 200 pages long on Di2 stuff and never mention that all ports (with one exception on brifter) are equivalent is a mystery to me. |
Here's one. Can i run di2 with just the climbing or sprint buttons only. No brifters.
And would it be cheaper? |
Originally Posted by blamester
(Post 20277084)
Here's one. Can i run di2 with just the climbing or sprint buttons only. No brifters.
And would it be cheaper? It would be cheaper but if you don't run brifters then how are you going to stop? -Tim- |
Climbing buttons are RD only as supplied. In theory one could use the Etube soft ware to reprogram a
climbing button set up to shift the FD but no one has commented on this particular mod. ie the shimano etube literature seems to suggest this might be feasible. dunnoh.... As to cheaper, maybe $50-150 but rigging the buttons would require some compromises on a drop bar and how acceptable that would be is problematic. On a flat bar it is great IME. |
Alfine 11 speed Di2, looks interesting , the cable pull length between gears apparently is short, so the stepper motor seems like a good thing.
Looks like it is retrofittable on the IGH.. too; |
Originally Posted by blamester
(Post 20277084)
Here's one. Can i run di2 with just the climbing or sprint buttons only. No brifters.
And would it be cheaper? |
Originally Posted by sch
(Post 20278089)
Climbing buttons are RD only as supplied. In theory one could use the Etube soft ware to reprogram a
climbing button set up to shift the FD but no one has commented on this particular mod. ie the shimano etube literature seems to suggest this might be feasible. dunnoh.... As to cheaper, maybe $50-150 but rigging the buttons would require some compromises on a drop bar and how acceptable that would be is problematic. On a flat bar it is great IME. I ride the drops mostly so i thought i could position the shifters better. And it is the front shifting i am most interested in. Am i rght in thinking that is where the biggest improvement over mechanical is. |
Originally Posted by blamester
(Post 20278400)
So no huge savings.
I ride the drops mostly so i thought i could position the shifters better. And it is the front shifting i am most interested in. Am i rght in thinking that is where the biggest improvement over mechanical is. |
Originally Posted by blamester
(Post 20278400)
So no huge savings.
I ride the drops mostly so i thought i could position the shifters better. And it is the front shifting i am most interested in. Am i rght in thinking that is where the biggest improvement over mechanical is. |
@MikeOK
I've had Di2 since 2014, and I still learned a lot from your post. Many thanks! Is there a similar procedure for re-centering the rear derailleur? Mine is almost at one extreme. |
Originally Posted by wgscott
(Post 20278684)
@MikeOK
I've had Di2 since 2014, and I still learned a lot from your post. Many thanks! Is there a similar procedure for re-centering the rear derailleur? Mine is almost at one extreme. |
I thought it couldn't be done (and asked and got that answer here before), so I think you discovered something new. Did you just figure this out the hard way, or is it documented somewhere?
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Originally Posted by wgscott
(Post 20278859)
I thought it couldn't be done (and asked and got that answer here before), so I think you discovered something new. Did you just figure this out the hard way, or is it documented somewhere?
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@wgscott I gave it a little thought, and I’m pretty sure you can do this to re-center the rear, in fact it might be simpler than the front. Just go into trim mode, move it as many steps as it takes to get back to center, cancel trim mode, then adjust your high and low. I bet that will work.
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Originally Posted by MikeOK
(Post 20278678)
In my opinion yes, the front is best because it auto trims itself depending on which cog you’re in. So you can use all 22 gears. You don’t use them all with synchro turned on, you really don’t need to. But as far as I’m concerned both front and back are great, in fact I think it’s the biggest bike advancement in 50 years.
I discovered this in January while setting up a 50/34 crank and 11-23 (11 spd.) cassette, that I could not access the 12 or 11 cog, even in manual mode or Gear Position Off, while in the 34 small ring. Issue 1 was Shimano has discontinued the 11-23, so it doesn’t even show up in the E-Tube settings as a cassette to use. Note that this may be a moot point if desiring to use Synchro, as the gear chart in E-Tube shows, you have other ring/cog choices to get the same gear inches you would find in the 34/12 and once you figure out where the shift points are, it shifts the system for you when you need the next available gear. And cheating the system by indicating a crank/cassettes that you are not using only rears it’s head if viewing the gear positions on a Garmin head unit or some such, otherwise the system doesn’t care what you actually have in use, as long as you configure chain length correctly. I have my system set to Full Synchro and so far am happy with it. I switched to a 14-28 cassette, live in the big ring most of the time, have no need for a 50/11 anyway, so am pleased with how it all works. I like having the Gear Position on the Garmin 1000, means I don’t have to look back at the cassette to see what gear I’m in. I have noted though, that using BT on the Di2 battery in a constant link to the Garmin while riding, does use up DN110 battery life, when it went from 100% to 90% in about 5 riding hrs. (As displayed on the Garmin) Not linking BT to the Garmin showed no add’l battery drain over the next 5 hrs. |
Steve thanks for adding. My knowledge is limited to my Ultegra 6870 50x34, 11x32. In manual on the original frame I could get all my gears, but after moving it all to a new frame I would get slight rubbing when in big ring/big cog. That is what prompted me to start the original thread. I was pegged out inboard and even though I rarely cross chained like that it bothered me that it wasn’t perfect. Since I started using synchro I really only need it re-centered because that’s just how it should be.
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Originally Posted by Steve B.
(Post 20278901)
I have noted though, that using BT on the Di2 battery in a constant link to the Garmin while riding, does use up DN110 battery life, when it went from 100% to 90% in about 5 riding hrs. (As displayed on the Garmin) Not linking BT to the Garmin showed no add’l battery drain over the next 5 hrs.
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Rear can be re-centered.
There are 33 steps in the 6870 rear derailleur adjustment. Put it in adjustment mode, adjust the derailleur all the way to one side and then move if 16 steps to the other side. It will then be centered. Then just follow the FD-6870 dealer manual exactly. Set it up as if you were installing a new derailleur for the first time and it will be fine. -Tim- |
I'm probably not being clear.
What I was hoping to do is re-center the window for adjustment with respect to the cassette, so that after the derailleur is perfectly adjusted with respect to cog #6, it will have 16 steps available to each side. On one wheel-set, I have 3 or 4 clicks remaining; on my other wheel-set, I have none remaining. |
I’m pretty sure we are understanding you wgscott. When you have your trim set centered on cog 6 it will be centered on every other cog as well. And you’ll have 16 steps of trim adjustment each way. I have two rear wheels as well and mine are different maybe 4 trim steps, even the high and low are a tad different. I’m running an el-cheapo wheel right now and I can’t get it to go into the #11 cog without chattering no matter what I do, it works fine on the better wheel. So I’m gonna wear this one out then change it all.
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OK, I will try it again. I am clearly missing something.
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wgscott - did you get it to work? I had to do my front again because I adjusted the preload on my BB.
I have an e-tube question for you guys, I am trying to lower the cog that prompts a ring downshift and it won't let me. Right now it lowers my chain ring when i go from my second cog to my big cog, and I want it to shift down when go from my 3rd to my 2nd. I am able to move how many cogs that the rear moves (I went from 3 to 2) but it won't let me change when it shifts. I was able to change where it up shifts to the big ring. |
To add to the discussion one thing I was wondering is if the Bluetooth unit would work in a titanium seat post and yes, it will. But when I paired to it my iPad it lost it's connection in the middle of updating the firmware and completely locked it up. I couldn't get the lights on the a box to light and it wouldn't shift. I unhooked everything and reconnected, still nothing. I called a bike shop and they told me I would have to take it there and they would hook it up to some gizmo that only dealers have. A few minutes ago I went out to the shop and connected my pc to it. Then I was able to reset the Bluetooth settings and now all is well. I can now connect with both my iPhone and my iPad. Still trying to figure out how to make it downshift in a higher gear.
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Originally Posted by MikeOK
(Post 20297361)
To add to the discussion one thing I was wondering is if the Bluetooth unit would work in a titanium seat post and yes, it will. But when I paired to it my iPad it lost it's connection in the middle of updating the firmware and completely locked it up. I couldn't get the lights on the a box to light and it wouldn't shift. I unhooked everything and reconnected, still nothing. I called a bike shop and they told me I would have to take it there and they would hook it up to some gizmo that only dealers have. A few minutes ago I went out to the shop and connected my pc to it. Then I was able to reset the Bluetooth settings and now all is well. I can now connect with both my iPhone and my iPad. Still trying to figure out how to make it downshift in a higher gear.
"Firmware updates on any device require the device to be rebooted. Rebooting the wireless unit interrupts wireless communication to the unit and so the final part of the update cannot complete. A wired connection is much more reliable for reestablishing connection to a device which is rebooted. Always use a wired connection for updating wireless unit firmware.' https://www.bikeforums.net/electroni...es-anyone.html Not sure about the downshifting. Are you stating it will not shift at all to higher gears ?, or you are locked out of the 2 highest gears ?, which is normal Di2 behavior. SB |
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