Buying an older used road bike?
 

I'm on the market for a new or used road bike, and would appreciate the forum's advice. A local bike shop is selling a Trek Domaine 5.9 c Ultrega Di2 that is in excellent condition. According to the Bicycle Blue Book it's worth $1600, which is what I plan to offer.

Alternatively, would I be better off purchasing a new 2020 (1 year old) road bike like the Cannondale SuperSix Evo Carbon 105 model which runs for about 2200? (If I can find one). My budget is about 2K max.

The underlying question is whether it is wise to purchase a 7 year old high-end road bike like the Trek Domaine or a mid-range road bike like the Cannondale that is new? Has the technology/geometry on bikes advanced to the point that one should only purchase the latest models or is it not so different from a 7 year old bike that it doesn't matter that much.

Thank you for your advice?

To simplify my post above, my question is should with a limited budget (2K) I buy a 7 year old, but high-end road (like a Trek Domaine 5.9 on consignment at a local shop) or alternatively check out my local bike shops (given the current shortages) to see what I can get new for 2K. The type of riding I would use it for is 25-40 rides in a semi-mountainous region (the Western Carolinas) and the occasional club ride. Thanks again for your thoughts on this.

For non-competitive riding, it may not make much difference.

I've been very happy with the 11-speed shifting. That may eventually be replaced with 12-speed or 13-speed, but for now the 11s is still a mainstay. But, I would expect a few hundred discount for 10-speed shifting (unless you should choose 10x3 which is generally not supported with 11s).

And an upgrade from 10s to 11s may not be as simple as one might hope.

If you buy a "NOS" bike, you may get the factory warranty, while a used bike generally will not have a transferable warranty (beyond what your shop gives you).

The warranties generally don't cover crash damage, but may cover factory defects (which are generally rare, but can show up as a design flaw that became obvious later).

I personally haven't jumped to electronic shifting. Your Di2 bike could be a very expensive bike. However, if something goes wrong, it could become a nightmare. Is the battery good?

It's a sad day when a bike that's only 7 years old is referred to as an "older bike". Come poke around in C&V for a while. :)

Thanks Clifford and Jeff for your helpful posts!

Clifford, I hadn't thought about the battery issue with electronic shifting, in fact, wasn't even aware (embarrassingly) that the Di2 had electronic shifting. (That shows how long it's been since I bought my last road bike!). That's something for sure to investigate. And also a good point about a NOS bike coming with a warranty.

Jeff, I will follow your lead and check out C&V! I didn't mean to insult anybody by referring to a 7 year old bike as "old." Technology on everything seems to be changing so rapidly these days, I wasn't sure if buying an "older" bike was wise or not. But maybe newer is not always better? (I'm currently riding a 20 year old Rocky Mountain Rail for my day bike which still works well).

Thanks again!!!

Design fashion and available technologies have certainly shifted since 2014. For example, if you want a road bike that can manage somewhat chunky gravel, the increased tire clearance on a new Domane is an advantage over its 2014 counterpart. Or, if you ride in wet conditions with abrasive road grime and you want to ride really nice wheels without feeling your wallet lighten whenever you pull on the brake levers, disc brakes have an obvious advantage over rim brakes.

But there's not really much age-dependent je ne sais quoi. A 7-year-old bicycle built with similar priorities to a current bicycle isn't going to suck just because it's 7 years old.
As far as geometry goes... modern road racing steering geometry is extremely mature, and hasn't seen any really major shifts in many decades. It even predates modern contact point design, like integrated shifters and compact handlebars. For instance, here's a page from the 1983 Miyata catalog:

https://i.imgur.com/FMKGZqw.jpg

Nothing about the steering geometry for the bikes in the first six rows of that chart would raise modern eyebrows very far.

In Shimano marketing-speak, "Di2" means electronic shifting.

The 2014 Domane 5.9c originally came with an 11-speed drivetrain.

In what way? Here's Shimano's Di2 compatibility chart:

https://bike.shimano.com/content/dam....4.3-00-EN.pdf

2014-era Ultegra 6870 is still cross-compatible with the current-gen stuff. Derailleur compatibility could become an issue after Shimano moves to 12-speed, but that's true for any road Di2 right now, and it'll probably be quite a few years before it becomes a serious legacy support hindrance.

Either is reasonable. What matters more is fit and shop support.

What do you ride now?

I would be most concerned with the level of wear on components with a used bike. A seven year old bike could still be showroom fresh or could be ready for a whole new drivetrain - depending on how it was used.

I’m the same. You would have to check everything carefully on a used bike, including hidden things like sweat corrosion under the bar tape if it has alloy bars. But if it’s being sold by a reputable shop, that might give you more confidence in its condition. Being 7 years old I would also check what maximum tyre width you can fit. Ideally you want clearance for at least 28 mm tyres.

If the used bike has Shimano or Campy (or nicer Fulcrum) wheels, check the cones (pull the wheels and twirl the axles). If the drivetrain is shagged, you should be able to knock a couple hundred off the price.

Wow. Thank you HTupolev for the education in frame geometry and electronic shifting! That Miyata frame geometry chart is nothing short of amazing. There is obviously a lot of physics involved in frame design. And thanks for welcoming me into the 21 century with a brief primer on Shimano's Di2 system;-) Good to know it will likely be compatible with current components for at least the immediate future. I hadn't really thought much about the issue of rim brakes, but I was struck by the fact that the Domaine 5.9 had front and rear break pads.

Thank you datlas for this advice. Good to know that I can't make a wrong decision here.

Hi Curbtender, I am riding a Rocky Mountain Rail with road tires attached. Compared to my current setup, the Trek Domaine 5.9 would probably feel like I had left the earth's gravitational pull.

Good point Cooperator. I will check that carefully.

Thanks for bringing tire width up PeteHski. That's something that was completely off my radar. I will be sure to check on that.

Kimmo, It turns out the wheels are Bontrager Race Lite tubeless wheels. I'll check the alignment. Great suggestion.

Thank you for the advice datlas!

Now that you are figuring out some basic background info. If you walk into a store with a pocket full of cash (or even a flashy plastic card), most shops will be happy to demonstrate their wares.

Take the bike out for a test ride.

I've got a 2020 bike with 105, and it's excellent stuff. I've never used Di2, so I can't speak to that, but I'm firmly of the opinion that older bikes that were good bikes when new are still good bikes - they don't become bad bikes when new bikes come out. So, yeah - the one that fits is the one you want.

If you are not familiar with newer groups it would be best to bring along someone who is.

Ok, I'm seeing several links to a 2001 Rocky Mountain Rail.

https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...spx?item=35109

It looks like a basic aluminum road bike from a few years back. If maintained, it should be perfectly functional for your 25-40 mile rides.

Some complaints of minimal tire clearance.

I certainly would keep it for city rides and commuting.

You may choose a bike that contrasts with what you already own. The Di2 Electronic shifting may be fun. Tire clearance has been mentioned. I still like narrower tires, but there are some arguments for a little larger tires.

Non-paved riding?

Good advice. Thanks CliffordK. Time to give the bike a test ride. Incidentally, I called one of the local shops that carries a lot of Specialized road bikes and they said that they had a "one year back order" on new road bikes (e.g. like the Specialized Tarmac). That was a good argument in favor of getting a used bike in the meantime!

Good suggestion Curbtender. I'll see if I can connect with some of the local riders to get a 2nd opinion and advice.

CliffordK, I was thinking of keeping the bike for city commuting, putting some fenders on it, and maybe going back to the cross tires. It's an excellent city bike.

OUCH!!! :eek::eek:

Condition is everything. Age is just a number.

Older bike with higher spec components vs. brand new bike that's down a tier in the specs? Doesn't make much difference, assuming the older one is in perfect condition. Between these two, I'd choose the one with the color I prefer.

If there is some minor wear on the older bike, it's still a pretty close comparison, with the scales starting to tip in favor of the new bike.

If there is significant wear or damage, pass it up in favor of the new one. You don't want to deal with someone else's worn out stuff just so you can get a higher level of components; you want to wear it out yourself. :thumb:

I agree, current 105 is really very good indeed. With older bikes, my concern is more the level of wear and potential abuse. Perhaps more so on mountain bikes, but road bikes can take a fair beating too and some people put in serious mileage. I would always judge used bikes on a strictly individual basis and never buy sight unseen.

Another aspect to consider is whether you plan to perform maintenance and repairs by yourself or if you will use your local bike shop. The more complicated the bike (e.g. electronic shifting, hydraulic brakes, etc) the more expensive the bicycle will be to maintain in the long run. An electronic shifter Di2 battery alone would cost at least $160 to replace while a cable operated bike has no such cost. Same with all of the other components associated with electronic shifting (the derailleurs, shifters, etc.). Finally, consider it has been nearly impossible to get 11 and 12 speed chains and cassettes for the last year since the pandemic. While this issue will eventually fall away as inventories recover if you have a problem and need parts they may be difficult to obtain.

i have a 1983 Schwinn Voyager that i bought new. DM me if interested.

I think the OP needs to take some time to learn about modern (now minus maybe a decade) bikes before buying something. It appears his(your) level of knowledge is quite low..not that there's anything wrong with that, everyone starts somewhere. Throwing $1500-$2k at a problem without good knowledge behind it sets you up for a moderately expensive error..and then you'll need to deal with that while being back to the same point you're at now...looking for a bike, possibly with less cash than you have now.

The world isn't going to end. Bikes are always available, new or used...with new being more available as time goes on. The forums here contain a wealth of info either through current discussions or by searching various topics. (search directly with BF or go to google and search in this format -> WhateverTopic:www.bikeforums.net (this will yield all threads addressing your "whatevertopic" within bikeforums)).

If you're really interested in bikes..doing research will be a fun exercise. If you just want to throw some money at the problem, be prepared for potentially making an error..learn that way..and then figure out how to sell it and buy something else, based on what you've learned(more expensive and time consuming in the long run).

Even $1k will get you a VERY NICE bike on the used market, if you know what to look for. There are tons of bikes out there that are in basically showroom condition as someone with more money than sense buys something, doesn't use it as they imagined, and sells it off. Know what you're looking for and act fast if you find it. The bike market is like making a decision in the current housing market...if you find a good buy on the right bike (great condition, right price, good fit, close enough to pickup..3-5 hr drive one way..for me) ...if you have to sleep ON it, you won't sleep IN it.

If I were new to riding and had $2000 to spend on a road bike, I would try to spend $1000 on a road bike(so likely used). Ride it a bunch, figure out what you like and dislike, then eventually sell it and buy something that better matches whatever you prioritize now that you have experience.


OP- I am not saying you are new to cycling, but just based on your join date and general questions, I figured I would submit how I would handle being a new rider with that budget.