How bad is cross-chaining?
 

I know that cross-chaining is a big no for cyclist however I do it quite a lot. Main reason - my shifters don't have a display to show the current gear, and I am not aware I am I cross-chaining till I try to select the next unavailable ring. No issues whatsoever, even though I use a 10 year old entry level 2x10 derailleurs (microShift FD and Shimano RD). Same on my son's cheap MTB with 3x7 or 8, he is not even aware of what cross-chaining is. :lol:

Point is, there is absolutely no chain rubbing or catching, all is smooth, maybe because I don't take my bike to a bike shop (most of them are useless in my area) and I service my bikes myself.

Then again I see plenty of videos on youtube where higher end drive systems often have chain rubs in small-to-small or large-to-large position. So how bad is the cross-chaining? Is anyone else is doing it without worrying too much?

Asking because I'm planning to invest in a new groupset with a custom build ratios, and I wonder if I must get shifters with displays.

Nobody uses gear indicator displays anymore. I didn't even use them on my bikes in the past that had them.

So, how do you avoid cross-chaining if you do?

Actually most users of electronic shifting systems have displays on their bike computers.

There can be some extra wear, mostly in the chainrings with the softer aluminum vs. steel cogs. It depends on your setup, weight, leg strength, how well you keep the chain lubed, short chainstays are worse than longer and some setups will be noisy from chain rub, etc. I do big/big often when riding through areas of frequent stopping to avoid double shifting constantly when pulling out from stops. I weigh around 210lbs and it does put some extra wear on the big chainring but have not noticed any on my cassettes largest cog at 25t or chain. I also don't spend much time in the big/big as I'll shift to another gear as soon as possible. Big/big is a luxury that is worth the small extra cost of wear to me but maybe not in everyones case.

Not really a thing. I have one bike with 2 x 11 and the rest are 1 x 12 or 1 x 11. The bike with 2 x 11 has a trim function on the front derailleur so I can eliminate the chain rub on the derailleur.

I'm not really sure how you are not aware. Either you can hear the chain rubbing on the front derailleur or there is a distinct noise that the chain makes when more friction is exerted on it.

You just know it is pretty easy if I am in the biggest ring and find myself needing easier and easier gears it is a good sign I need to move to a smaller ring. If I am in my smaller ring and find myself needing harder and harder gears I know it is time to move to my larger ring. Obviously if you are in a race you may not think about it but a more casual ride you can. Having noise or not having noise doesn't matter so much but in the end everything is stretched out to the limits so in the end you are causing more wear for no real sensible reason. You will know at least where you are at on your front chainring and if not then learn which feels harder and which feels easier and you will be able to shift better very quickly.

I think the only bike I own with gear indication is my Rohloff E-14 equipped bike but that has a display and would automatically show it anyway. A lot of gear indicators I see tend to be broken or not very functional and even so it still won't warn me if I am cross chaining it will just move a little indicator one way or the other.

Don't worry, just ride. If you're chain is rubbing or making noises, change chain rings.

Old school, look down and see where the chain is on the cassette and the crank.

Cross-chaining is only a sin in some religions.

I’ve posted this before and there is never a response, so I tend to view cross chaining in the eye of the beholder.

The industry has never published any guidance on the maximum chain angle, off centerline, from chain to cog. Meaning, if the angle of the chain on a 1x11 is greater than a big-big or small-small of a 2x7, why is there excessive wear on one and not the other?

My rough calcs put these angles between 2* and 3*.

In a lot of ways cross chaining is little more than being a bit lazy to not shift to another chainring for a short duration. It is funny looking back 40 years when freewheels were 5 and 6 speed, some people would run a half-step setup and constantly shift both the chainrings and cogs to mitigate gaps in gearing. And 1x systems eliminate the FD entirely to get “similar” half-step gaps.

John

You either remember where your chain is or...wait for it...you look. :eek:

I notice a lot of people I ride with 'cross chaining.' I tend to avoid it like the plague. Most systems today can handle it well with perhaps a little more wear on components and slight loss of efficiency.

I started riding road bikes in the early '70's when chains were a lot less flexible side to side. Even on a 5 cog block it was a little dicey going big-big. Nowadays, chains are a lot more flexible and can easily handle big-big. I still don't like to do it, but it's mostly out of habit.

You beat me to it. That looking bit. (I'm glad I still can. I have to use a mirror because I cannot look back over either shoulder - too many collarbone and shoulder injuries - but looking down still works. I do cheat. I only have to look as far as my DT shifters! (Fun concept - DT shifters = cheating.)

Gevenalle's shifters have even better ease of determining gear position since they don't return-to-center like brifters and are right under your hands on the hoods. Just touch the shift levers and you know exactly where you are.

1x

Used to hear noises and rubbings every time the bike was serviced by professional bike shops. It's all smooth and quiet since I learned how to do it myself. Though it took me quite a long time to figure the proper way to set up my gear.

Not sure what the trim function you mentioned is, pretty sure I don't have it. Will google.

I do occasionally look down, but don't like it on my hybrid. It's actually down and back between my legs, feels quite unsafe on public roads with cars and pedestrians around me, but I still sometimes do.

SRAM officially endorses cross-chaining. Shimano doesn't, but their drivetrains appear to tolerate it, at least in my experience. Recent iterations of Di2 prevent you from doing it.

SRAM has been the main proponent of 1X gearing (probably because they can't seem to make a functional front derailleur). I got curious about this, because the same arguments that apply to cross-chaining should apply to 1X, at least for the lowest gear, so I checked their website, and found that out, so at least they get points for consistency.

I can feel/hear it when I'm in the extreme cross-chain gears and then I fix it (shift). I don't think it's that big of a deal - you're wasting a few watts, but it's the vibration that bugs me most.

How bad is cross-chaining? It causes increased wear and tear on your bicycle components. It's especially bad with older bicycle components. If the bike is adjusted well there may not be any perceptible damage during cross chaining but eventually the parts do wear down.

The old rule is: Big Teeth Up Front = Little Teeth In Back and Little Teeth Up Front = Big Teeth In Back.

I think on modern bikes there is still the issue of Cross Chaining Wear but it would appear that the "Use It Then Replace It" trend prevails.

Instead of preserve it if you can...

Trim in this context refers to the front derailleur - there will be 3 or 4 click stops on the FD to deal with the changing chain angle when you shift the RD.

"How bad is cross chaining"

In your case, as with many folks it is no problem. It no doubt varies between bikes and drivetrains. That said even if cross chaining works as smoothly as the other gears, I would suggest avoiding the practice for long rides.

When I bought my comfort bike 4 years ago I never gave cross chaining a 2'nd thought for short runs. Even Shimano's budget Altus 3 x 7 speed drivetrain with a Suntour XCC crankset performed flawlessly in every gear. But I think I messed up the chain alignment a bit and now It sometimes slips cross chaining, So I avoid it. The other gears seem fine and I'm good with that. I have detent twist grip shifters with gear indicators so I always know what gear I'm in.

I cross chain all the time and have no wear issues. The only time I look back to see what cog I am in? On a steep hill when I push the button and nothing happens; otherwise, if I need an easier gear I push the left button and if I need an harder gear, I push the right button.

Cross chaining, much like hookless rims, is not as scary as some people make it out to be. And if you are cross chained, it's not usually for a long enough duration that you have to worry about excess wear and tear on the drivetrain.