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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

SirMike1983 01-05-17 06:49 PM

The chain case for the 26 inch Sports-style frame was different from the 28 inch or DL-1 chain case. The DL-1 case was designed with removable seat stays in mind because the DL-1 seat stays can be unbolted.

The Dawn/Sports style chain case was designed with fixed/brazed seat stays in mind, and slipped over those stationary seat stays. If you need to buy a chain case, make sure you get the one that suits your frame.

markk900 01-06-17 05:17 PM


Originally Posted by dweenk (Post 19291334)
I would like to see a clean chainring of creepy little men who share one head spinning around.

You asked :):
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf7b8bb31.jpg

gster 01-07-17 07:06 AM

Good Deal
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here's a bike on Toronto Kijiji. Raleigh Laurentian. Price, FREE!
It's in the east end of the city so I'll pass but looks to be the basis of a good project.

bwilli88 01-07-17 08:05 AM

If that Raleigh Laurentian was a 23in I would be begging you to try and facilitate it for me.

clubman 01-07-17 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 19296602)

That's not so nice! :innocent:

Spent 2 hours pulling the 52 apart. A real mess. Salient points. It has a braze on pulley mount even though it used a band clamp. First time I've actually seen a bolt in the full chainguard mount. CPSC should have implemented the Raleigh wheel retention system if any. I like it. Everything came apart (except fixed cup of course) but it all needs a good bath in OA. The rims may not be salvageable. Oh yes, under artificial basement light, it really looks green, in the daylight it's sea-blue. I've had two Humbers that never had this hue.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VW...7=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kb...r=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kH...V=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xS...=w1001-h563-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7x...m=w384-h681-no

gster 01-07-17 04:31 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 19297663)
That's not so nice! :innocent:

Spent 2 hours pulling the 52 apart. A real mess. Salient points. It has a braze on pulley mount even though it used a band clamp. First time I've actually seen a bolt in the full chainguard mount. CPSC should have implemented the Raleigh wheel retention system if any. I like it. Everything came apart (except fixed cup of course) but it all needs a good bath in OA. The rims may not be salvageable. Oh yes, under artificial basement light, it really looks green, in the daylight it's sea-blue. I've had two Humbers that never had this hue.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VW...7=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kb...r=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kH...V=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xS...=w1001-h563-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7x...m=w384-h681-no

My 1960 Superbe has that same recess on the front forks. The front wheel has been swapped out at some point and
doesn't locate properly. I suspect that there's a special nut required with a male spigot that should be used. Anyone have any info?

SirMike1983 01-07-17 06:00 PM

The recessed fork was dropped at some point in the 1960s. I have a '58 with the recessed fork and original wheel with original front nuts. The correct front nuts for that are shouldered rather than plain. The shoulder slips into drop-out and the nut itself goes into the recess. One of clubman's photos shows the shouldered nuts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7x...m=w384-h681-no

gster 01-07-17 06:30 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 19298329)
The recessed fork was dropped at some point in the 1960s. I have a '58 with the recessed fork and original wheel with original front nuts. The correct front nuts for that are shouldered rather than plain. The shoulder slips into drop-out and the nut itself goes into the recess. One of clubman's photos shows the shouldered nuts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7x...m=w384-h681-no

I need to find a pair of those. I've adapted one of the inner sleeved nuts for the time being to hold the wheel in place. Otherwise it slips out of alignment.

clubman 01-07-17 06:56 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19298178)
My 1960 Superbe has that same recess on the front forks. The front wheel has been swapped out at some point and
doesn't locate properly. I suspect that there's a special nut required with a male spigot that should be used. Anyone have any info?

[QUOTE=SirMike1983;19298329]The recessed fork was dropped at some point in the 1960s. I have a '58 with the recessed fork and original wheel with original front nuts. The correct front nuts for that are shouldered rather than plain. The shoulder slips into drop-out and the nut itself goes into the recess. One of clubman's photos shows the shouldered nuts.

gster, I'm quite sure I have a pair of those nuts. I had a look but my shop is a mess but if I find them I'll let you know. In addition to Mikes info, an important part of the retention is the large washers that also slip over the shoulder. The depth of these washers is critical to a tight fit.

Question for y'all. There's another shouldered front axle setup where the lip/shoulder is on the cone and the recess is on the inside of the forks. When was that in use?

gster 01-08-17 07:16 AM

[QUOTE=clubman;19298415]

Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 19298329)
The recessed fork was dropped at some point in the 1960s. I have a '58 with the recessed fork and original wheel with original front nuts. The correct front nuts for that are shouldered rather than plain. The shoulder slips into drop-out and the nut itself goes into the recess. One of clubman's photos shows the shouldered nuts.

gster, I'm quite sure I have a pair of those nuts. I had a look but my shop is a mess but if I find them I'll let you know. In addition to Mikes info, an important part of the retention is the large washers that also slip over the shoulder. The depth of these washers is critical to a tight fit.

Question for y'all. There's another shouldered front axle setup where the lip/shoulder is on the cone and the recess is on the inside of the forks. When was that in use?

I would certainly appreciate that and could offer something in trade. Most of my bikes have the inner recess.

nlerner 01-08-17 10:48 AM

I don't usually post CL ads here, but this later model 23" Sports in white for $100 seems like a good find:

Raleigh bicycle

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/584/31...d34aba09_c.jpg00I0I_5NMYoVBZGNP_1200x900

BigChief 01-08-17 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 19299426)
I don't usually post CL ads here, but this later model 23" Sports in white for $100 seems like a good find:

Raleigh bicycle

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/584/31...d34aba09_c.jpg00I0I_5NMYoVBZGNP_1200x900

This is an unusually good find. I've been scanning New England CL for months. Figures that this would show up the minute I go to Florida. Oh well, thats life.

BigChief 01-08-17 11:30 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I brought the roadster with me to southern Florida instead of my Sprite this year. This bike just works for me somehow. Very fun on the unpaved, hilly roads up north, but geared a bit low for the flat paved roads here. My Sports bikes all have the earlier 48T chainwheels. This 72 roadster has a 46T, so it's 46x22. If I lived here I'd use a 19T or 20T cog. I do miss the medium ratio spread of the S5, but I'm still having fun with my latest project.
Attachment 548266

Salubrious 01-09-17 03:36 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 19298415)
Question for y'all. There's another shouldered front axle setup where the lip/shoulder is on the cone and the recess is on the inside of the forks. When was that in use?

Seems to be a late 50s and into 1960s thing.

My Humber Sports are early 50s and not set up that way. My '62 Raleigh is. My '72 Superbe is not and its a lot harder to remove the wheel.

clubman 01-09-17 05:14 PM

Thanks, gotta check my 57.

BigChief 01-09-17 05:51 PM

The later Raleighs went way overboard with wheel retention. The forks can be so tight that you need either three hands, a fork spreader or a mallet to hit the axle to get the wheel off. Plenty of bikes have forks that clear the front hub OLD without fork spreading and I've never had the wheel fall off one yet. I would much rather snug the axle nuts from time to time than have a wheel that couldn't be removed on the road.

markk900 01-09-17 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 19302201)
Seems to be a late 50s and into 1960s thing.

My Humber Sports are early 50s and not set up that way. My '62 Raleigh is. My '72 Superbe is not and its a lot harder to remove the wheel.

My Humber Sport is a 49 and also not set up that way - it has the exact same fork end as @clubman and a shouldered nut with a washer that the shoulder goes into, just like the other picture.

clubman 01-10-17 09:21 AM

Just thought I'd show the copper plating on the 52 SA trigger. I've seen brass before but this is new to me. The rust was hiding the patina.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ac...=w1470-h828-no

bazil4696 01-11-17 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19298380)
I need to find a pair of those. I've adapted one of the inner sleeved nuts for the time being to hold the wheel in place. Otherwise it slips out of alignment.

Bring a pair of hex nuts to the Brantford bike show next month and I'll be happy to machine the shoulders if you can tell me the diameter and depth of the shoulder. Perhaps someone on here can measure factory nuts and forward the sizes to one of us.
Then I'll mail em back to you when I'm done.

gster 01-11-17 10:06 AM


Originally Posted by bazil4696 (Post 19306051)
Bring a pair of hex nuts to the Brantford bike show next month and I'll be happy to machine the shoulders if you can tell me the diameter and depth of the shoulder. Perhaps someone on here can measure factory nuts and forward the sizes to one of us.
Then I'll mail em back to you when I'm done.

That would be a big favour.

clubman 01-11-17 10:10 AM


Originally Posted by bazil4696 (Post 19306051)
Bring a pair of hex nuts to the Brantford bike show next month and I'll be happy to machine the shoulders if you can tell me the diameter and depth of the shoulder. Perhaps someone on here can measure factory nuts and forward the sizes to one of us.
Then I'll mail em back to you when I'm done.

I'll get a measurement on those once I get my digital caliper batteries replaced. Still looking for my other set of OEM nuts.

bazil4696 01-11-17 12:20 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 19306196)
I'll get a measurement on those once I get my digital caliper batteries replaced. Still looking for my other set of OEM nuts.

there's tons of time.

thumpism 01-11-17 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by sirpecangum (Post 19306617)
Sadly, I think the frame and most other parts are beyond repair, at least for me.

Nonsense. While rusty it is not rusted away. Use OA to remove as much rust as you can, clearcoat whatever is left and put it back together. The bike has too much character, unless you just need the parts for a different bike. You've already done the hard work.

dweenk 01-11-17 02:21 PM


Originally Posted by sirpecangum (Post 19306617)
A 1966 Raleigh Sports of some kind I guess. I've not seen this head badge style myself before. Overall it is in a bad way. I like the Raleigh motif on the frame tube ends and wheel and cotter pin nuts, grip-shift for the SA AW gears and dynamo with working lights. I've rebuilt the wheels and they've cleaned up surprising well and both are fully functional with Made in England Dunlop tubes and Michelin "Roadster" tyres. Sadly, I think the frame and most other parts are beyond repair, at least for me.

I think that is a Raleigh anniversary headbadge, others on the forum would know for sure.

noglider 01-11-17 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by sirpecangum (Post 19306800)
Character! Funny but true however, I attach a photo of character steel, failed. Frightening. What is OA? I have tried clear coating steel before with polyurethane and it rusts.

I always knew that this is possible, but I'd never seen it until now.


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