While it won't do a thing about the left hand shifting, you might also want to look into the Sturmey-Archer S30 trigger shifter for the 3-speed side of things. I've been very pleased with mine:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1a189cc8a5.jpg

Pic is old - hadn't hooked it up here. Yet.

-Kurt

Local flipper (whom I call "white truck guy") has this neat one for $300.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...16880587133158

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...Jw&oe=63BBA730

Hey all, Happy New Year. Somebody had a 26 x 1 3/8 wheel for sale here with a 'frozen hub' and I picked it up thinking I might find a good parts source.

Here's what I got:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1a78b97a_h.jpgPXL_20230104_195409565

A '53 dated AW laced to a Raleigh rim with the raised matte centre, and 'R' branded stainless spokes (or at least, I think they are). The hub was indeed frozen, with the driver only moving back and forth a little when inserted into the clutch. I thought, oh boy, this thing must be rust city inside if the staining of the bearing spaces is any indication. I applied PB Blaster liberally and it started to wakeup, and now I can hear one or two pawls ticking. I'm hoping to remove the assembly from the shell and take it down to the sun gear for a cleaning and inspection of the mechs, fresh bearings, and rebuild. I was thinking of sending my 1980 S5.1 to Rat City bikes in Seattle for a rebuild because its slipping in super low (they specialize in IGH services, and they make their own shift cables to avoid the pinch bolt!), but if I can do the full job on this AW, I should be able to manage on the S5.1, though I may need parts. Once back up to snuff, I'm planning on running this AW wheel on the Triumph while I do the same job for the S5.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...70f6ecb1_h.jpgPXL_20230104_195357949

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...42a2312b_h.jpgPXL_20230104_195416740

It may be just the angle of the photo but that thing looks like its had a front end collision, I see some deflection around the top lug to top tube joint and the forks look slightly rearward.
Otherwise its an interesting ride.
With that frame style, and what looks to be steel rims, I wonder if it has either 28 x 1 1/2" rather than 700C wheels? I don't recall seeing many steel 700c rims over the years.

I've run into a few Dutch built bikes that were similar, one a burgundy colored, Union badged bike that looked similar but sans the rubber fender end and modern saddle.
The bike I had here was too far gone to fix but I saved the fenders, rear rack, CG, bars, and other small parts but its wheels and hubs were trashed, both had loose right side spoke flanges, and both rims, (28"), were rusted through. The rims however were an odd rounded profile with spoke dimples with Semperit 28x1 1/2" Super Elite branded tires.
I happened on that bike over 20 years ago in a huge lot that I bought up in NY. I've yet to find another just like it, but that same lot of bikes and parts also included several of the same headbadges and several more of the same style drum brake hub with similarly damaged flanges.

Could be, but the fender on the Chevy 1500 is also distorted.

The toe overlap clearance does look minimal though, so I wouldn't put it past it for having crinkles behind the headlugs and below the fork crown. Given that this will be a hi-ten frame though, it'll probably pull out with cold setting and show no evidence once straightened, provided it is done properly.

-Kurt

Unusual yellow Sports Special for $25 in NJ.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...62617397496913

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...xw&oe=63BCF6D5

I soaked a rusted, partially seized 1953 AW from the Pacific Northwest (seller was located in BC's lower mainland) in PB Blaster for a day or so and tried the hammer and punch to crack it open. It took some whacks, but the penetrant did its work and it started to loosen up and I removed the assembly for inspection. I think all of the internal rust is the result of operating through the decades in a very damp environment, and the lower mainland of British Columbia definitely qualifies as damp, humid in winter, rainy - without regular service internals and drops of oil, I think rust up inside an IGH is inevitable. A little work and it spilled its guts! Looks to have never been serviced, with the bits and bobs of original grease hardened into chalky gunk.

As is often reported elsewhere for this era of Sturmey Archer hub gear, there are no indications of wear on any of the internal parts after a good scrubbing. I expected some worn parts, as the hub (given the state of the wheel), must have thousands (maybe tens of thousands?) of kilometers under its belt after 70 years. I know what you're thinking - did he drop a pawl spring? - yes, I did, but I found it!

I'm going to clean up the wheel as best I can, install the bearings and fresh marine grease, apply some synthetic oil on a few moving parts as per instructions, and put it back together. Its going into service on my '64 Triumph while the S5 is out of commission for its own inspection and rebuild.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6e06342f_b.jpgPXL_20230106_000729017

I thought you folks might find this interesting - a '50s Raleigh for sale locally. If it had been the men's model, I'd already be meeting the seller...look at that blue! I've only ever seen this colour in period advertisements as posted by a few keepers of the flame in this forum. Nice bike - complete with the B66L, the Superbe lamps, AG hub...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8469829da9.jpg

Ged117, For what it's worth, Sturmey Archer asks that you replace the 4 pawl springs at every service. In the couple that I have worked on there was a difference in the spring tension, before and after. The best deal I found for springs was a 10 pack from SJS cycles in the UK. Takes a couple of weeks for shipping though.

A tired pawl spring is certainly one place to look if you have a slipping hub and simpler repairs like cleaning or the various external adjustments to the hub and shifter will not solve it. And all the more so if the hub hasn't been serviced in 50+ years. But I will admit I think replacing all 4 springs at every service if the hub is working is a bit much. I can see it as a preventative measure if the hub is ridden every day as a commuter in all conditions, or ridden a lot and on very long rides, but it seems like a lot of replacing springs to me for a vintage bike that is more sparingly ridden. My two cents at least when working on these hubs.

Both of my bikes with Sturmey hubs are ridden a lot, and the road bike for long distances. The roadster is an all-year-round commuter, so I will replace the springs while I have the hubs apart this time around. Thanks for the recommendations everyone.

Edit: I just realized that two pawl springs are missing - the ones for the planetary gearset assembly, and that the clutch spring and cap are missing too. I think this hub was used as a parts source to keep another hub going.

Puch Vitesse non-folder.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...22097229873164

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...rQ&oe=63BE3BDB

Looks like the Humber blue from the mid late 50's

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4f464dae5b.jpg

I'd think it's CF9...Royal Blue, fitting for the Aristocrat of bikes


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e1e9ce09ad.jpg

I've had dozens of SA hubs apart over the years and I've rarely found bad or obviously weak springs in 'working' hubs. I have found rusty, broken springs in hubs that were all but seized or found outdoors. I generally only replace a spring if its obviously damaged or worn in some way. I do tend to 'reset' them a bit if they feel soft.
Failure wise, I've seen more chewed up pinion gears or worn planet gear pins then broken springs over the years.

This is cool. I can't imagine there are many '50s Raleighs wearing rarer colours left, other than black and maybe green. I saw a Sports wearing CF7 for sale last year - the seller wanted way too much

This Robin Hood is posted locally, looks to be have been in a crash. I asked the seller about it, but they're ignoring me, trying to cash in on a 'vintage bike' that has been sitting and needs pretty much everything serviced to be ridden.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dc97a8c8ab.jpg

My 1949 (or 50?) Humber was also that blue.....very fragile paint as it appeared to have been applied over top of the normal glass black. I repainted it in as close to the same colour as I could.

$250 for a clearly crashed bike is a bit of a stretch, given the servicing it will need. The serial number (32635RC) and the brazed on pulley mount sort of point to later 50s; too bad the seller didn't show the hub. Chainring is interesting and I wonder if the dynohub works?

I assume it's not priced well, right?

There is, of course, the approach of showing up with cash and then mentioning the damage. But if they're trying to ask top dollar and are also ignoring the fact that someone's pointing out it has damage, well, those people can't be reasoned with.

-Kurt

Not unlike my 1950 Superbe that Kurt now owns - the green paint was a little fragile, revealing the tough-as-nails black enamel underneath.

It is a really interesting example, with classic '50s Canadian market paint. If its later 1950s, it might have the SW - my wife's '56 Sports came with an SW that worked but was a little finicky for her to shift, so I switched it out for an AW wheel. More often than not the dynohubs are in working condition, and its usually a wiring issue preventing the lamps from doing their thing.

I'm interested in the bike (I have a spare Raleigh fork that would work, albeit in a different colour; I could also try straightening the damaged front fork), but not at anywhere near the $250 that they are asking. Their manners as a seller aren't great either - I asked about the collision damage and no response tells me they don't want to hear it.

Raleigh Choppers
 

Found this article at "The Guardian".
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeands...-chopper-rides

Found these in a box from a recent clean out:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...23884c656f.jpg
They were covered in cosmoline and wrapped in brown paper in a wooden box marked Made in England.
They are 'lightly chromed' at best, with limited coverage around the crown area. They appear to have been meant to be partially painted.
The fork blades are 14" long, the steer tube is 8" (203mm) long, they appear to be universal replacement forks as they are threaded long enough to be cut down to fit either a 21 or 23" frame size.
The dropouts are stamped, with a single fender attachment point.
I was told the place closed in 1970 and had signage for Raleigh, Royal Enfield, Rollfast, Mossberg, and Philips.

Standard 24tpi thread, or Raleigh 26tpi thread?

Just checked them, they have 24tpi threads.

A few of them are stamped Royal Enfield, a few are plain with only a few un-legible numbers written on the steer tube.
All were dipped in heavy brown cosmoline which I washed off with mineral spirits on a rag.
They appear to have been dipped in it as the fork tubes and steer tube appear to also be full of the stuff.
I have one soaking in a parts wash tank to completely remove the stuff.
The box they were in was in rough shape. At first sight I sort of just figured it was an old military box from something.
It appears that it was being used as a step to reach the top shelf for years. It was still nailed shut and almost got left behind.
It was made completely of 1/2" thick wood planks nailed together, no plywood, no sealing or special joinery.
Each fork was coated in cosmoline and wrapped separately, every three were wrapped again were wrapped together.
The paper, inside of the box and forks were saturated with the hard waxy grease and the box seams were stained with it from where it
had seeped through over the years.

A shop that I used to work for back in the 70's sold Royal Enfield, they were getting them from Joannou Cycle in north Jersey. I believe they were made in Taiwan. There were three speeds, some with Raleigh type forks.They were equipped with SA hubs. They weren't bad bikes, likely coming from Giant or another large manufacturer. They all had chrome Endrick style steel rims that were pretty much a dead knockoff of what Raleigh was using at the time on the LTD model, cottered steel cranks, they had lug frames, North Road type bars, Raleigh style stem, the fenders were very similar to Raleigh, but they used American style stamped steel braces, the saddles were vinyl, on par with most other similar bikes. The chain guards were similar to Raleigh but lighter built. The grips were even the same as a Raleigh Sports.
I think it was mainly a case of a distributor owning the rights to the name back then, there was likely no relationship to the original Royal Enfield company by that time.
They were decent bikes, and they could be sold for a good bit less than a Raleigh Sports back then, I seem to recall them sitting on the floor with $79.99 hang tags on them, often discounted even lower. (At the same point, a Raleigh was in the $140 range or so).

By the time the 80's came around they were mostly gone, with only a few left overs lingering on the showroom floor. They seemed to go away around the same time that the real Raleigh Sports did back then. Around that time every brand had a three speed touring bike.

I owned one for a short while back then, it was a bike that a customer bought and later run into with his car, he bought a new one and left the damaged one for use to dispose of.
I straightened the frame, wheels, and cranks and used it for a while myself. I can't for the life of me remember what ever happened to that bike, it either got left behind when I moved at some point or loaned out and not returned over the years. It was small for me so I didn't ride it much myself but it wasn't a bad bike.
For the short time they were available, I don't recall any big issues with them, but most who bought that type of bike were rather casual riders.


I did some digging and found these from around 1977-79 or so.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c3aa22aaac.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...05ea6d44c6.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d2234e141e.jpg

I'm surprised no mention of Dynohub as an option.

Hello,

Throwing this serial number out there for those of you who know about these things.

For Raleigh (American made(?)) RSW

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e4d1e340fe.jpg
S1F91918

I would suppose that the added cost of a dynohub or lights would have been a bit much for a bike being sold as a cheap alternative.
Going by that brochure, they likely looked a bit less 'British' to most Raleigh buyers then with the bright colors and gumwall tires.
While its just personal preference, gumwall tires on fender bike just never looked right to me. A lot that is probably because they're what came on
the department store 26" road bikes of that era.

None of that brochure mentions a chrome, or chrome tip fork though for the three speed model. It makes me think that those forks could be from a different era of production. From what I find online, the 70's era models were Taiwan built and badged Royal Enfield for the distributor, unless they were sourcing forks with 24tpi threading from England, which I sort of doubt, they are likely earlier than the bikes described in the brochure above.

For anyone enjoying cycling life within the world of Sturmey Archer hub gears who likes to use them with road bikes in the classic club or 'fast touring' style, I have found a source for modern alloy 32/40h 700c rim sets via ebay seller saveitfromlandfill here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153176024390

Kinlin rims are made in Taiwan just like Sun rims are, and appear to be of comparable quality, and are popular in the UK for 32/40 builds. For a long while I was trying to find period 1950s Constrictor Conloy alloy rims in 27 x 1 1/4, or Dunlop rims, to lace some nice late 1940s / early '50s hubs to, but these are unobtanium unless at very high prices, as its been 70 years since they were made. I did find a 40h one, but it could be months or years before I find a 32h mate for it, which is too long a wait for me personally, so I passed. Otherwise most period wheelsets in 32/40 in 27 x 1 1/4 are steel, or you mix and match other European rims from the '60s and '70s if you want 27" or 700c but in 32/40 in a box section alloy rim that looks appropriate. Sun CR18 is a good choice in well priced 32 or 36h, but they don't make a 40h version (you could put your hub guts into a 36h shell, but for nice original 40s or 50s hubs like an FM, FW, AM or alloy AW, etc. its hard to dump the original shell).

Other period options include 26 x 1 1/4 rims, but tire options in that size are very limited. 650a or 26 x 1 3/8 would work too, depending on frame clearance, and there are a few good tire options still thanks to its popularity in the Japanese market, but with my road bike build I want it to look more closely to the original. 27 x 1 1/4 has one great tire option and a few so-so options, but cannot compare with the variety (and probable longevity in this century) of 700c, so I'm building my 32/40 wheelset for my '51 Wasp with 700c modern box section rims while they are available in this hole count. I thought I'd share in case anyone else is considering.