|
Originally Posted by BRAZUCA
(Post 14738216)
I found this bolt and nut on e-bay, it says it is from a Raleigh Sports 1971. Is this the correct one for a DL-1 Tourist. Aaron, I believe yours have nuts and spacers on both sides right? I added it to my watch list for now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390469093904...84.m1423.l2649
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 14738526)
Any decent shop would be able to supply a bolt like this for about a dollar. There should be a washer behind the bolt while the bolt head is tabbed and needs no washer.
By nut and bolt...I mean nut and bolt like you would buy in any hardware store, auto parts store, home improvement store, etc. Aaron :) |
A question (kinda) related to this thread: A while back I came by some old English cycling magazines that were filled with ads and pictures of IGH 5-speed sport bikes, but I never see one in the wild, even on CL? Do I just live in a culturally challenged part of the world, or do I have to cross the Atlantic to find one of these awesome vintage bikes?
|
Hello Aaron, I would really like to see a picture when you have a minute to do so. THANK YOU.
Originally Posted by wahoonc
(Post 14739931)
The DL-1 DOES NOT use a tabbed bolt, there is no slot for the tab. There is a hole through one stay, the seat tube clamp and the other stay. It takes a bolt, a washer on each side and a nut. I will try and get a picture later today.
By nut and bolt...I mean nut and bolt like you would buy in any hardware store, auto parts store, home improvement store, etc. Aaron :) |
Originally Posted by wahoonc
(Post 14734393)
What do you want to know? I have one brand new that eventually, maybe, I might get around to installing on a folding full sized MTB frame I have.
Aaron :) |
I guess you're aware that the Sports models - and I assume others - came with the Raleigh "R" acorn nut and those are pretty awesome - and quite dear when found at auction sites.
Sadly, the one that came on my recently acquired 23" [yay!] framed Sports, is rusted beyond acceptable appearance so I had just been looking about for the same parts for that bike as you are for your DL. I found the Raleigh OEM ones like you showed for $10 + shipping at eBay for something more like $3-$4 dollars. Not sure how I'm going to handle the replacement on my bike; I'm leaning toward Aaron's solution but in all stainless... [I live a few blocks from a "heritage" hardware/lumber" business and I know for a fact that they stock most sizes of stainless steel nuts, bolts, washers & those can be had on a piece-by-piece basis as opposed to what's usually the case in the Blue and the Orange places]
Originally Posted by wahoonc
(Post 14739931)
The DL-1 DOES NOT use a tabbed bolt, there is no slot for the tab. There is a hole through one stay, the seat tube clamp and the other stay. It takes a bolt, a washer on each side and a nut. I will try and get a picture later today.
By nut and bolt...I mean nut and bolt like you would buy in any hardware store, auto parts store, home improvement store, etc. Aaron :) |
Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
(Post 14740472)
Wanted to know how it rides/shifts in comparison to, say, a well-adjusted AW hub.
Aaron :) |
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 14736880)
Insufficient torque can cause failure and I have found that the OEM cable and clamps are much better than the generic ones that are available.
Re insufficient torque: Very true. And a lesson that I learnt early on in wrenching on these beasties... Nothing like having to re-adjust the whole shebang because you didn't torque it all down with two wrenches... Re OEM vs. generic: Again, I echo that, even though I've just begun my leaning curve in comparison to yours. One of the things that really interests me is the quality - and/or lack thereof - that went into the different brands. And, that being said, the more I learn about the other brands, in comparison to what Raleigh was doing in their heyday, the more loyal I become to the "old" Raleighs [and other, oft-absorbed by Raleigh, British brands....] Now about those French, Dutch, German and Japanese brands... |
Originally Posted by mobilemail
(Post 14740190)
A question (kinda) related to this thread: A while back I came by some old English cycling magazines that were filled with ads and pictures of IGH 5-speed sport bikes, but I never see one in the wild, even on CL? Do I just live in a culturally challenged part of the world, or do I have to cross the Atlantic to find one of these awesome vintage bikes?
As it so happens, I was doing research on IGH hubs this past weekend - particularly looking at 4-8 speeds, and I came across this... RIDICULOUSLY USEFUL SET OF DATA: http://john-s-allen.com/gears/hubratios.htm Enjoy; IMO particularly useful is the page on INCREMENTS AND TOTAL RANGE but I have the entire document saved on my desktop. |
Originally Posted by BRAZUCA
(Post 14740314)
Hello Aaron, I would really like to see a picture when you have a minute to do so. THANK YOU.
Here are a couple of quick pictures via cellphone, the regular camera battery is dead and I can't find the charger base...again. I stand corrected, there are tab slots in both sides of the stays, so the tabbed bolt is probably correct. However based on previous experience I suspect they are pretty weak and get wrung off on a regular basis. All of my Sports/Superbes have the one with the tab and a Raleigh cap bolt, those are the Raleigh 26tpi. I have had my hands on 4+ DL-1 bikes of varying vintage and every one has had a regular bolt on them... go figure. Here are the pictures, now I have to go find a damned Raleigh seat post bolt...NOT! Aaron :) http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/50...425x425Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/52...425x425Q85.jpg |
THANK YOU VERY MUCH Aaron!! Sorry to make your brave the weather, haha. So, the bolt I found on e-bay is the correct one but I got your point that likely a regular bolt with nuts on both sides would work better. Pics really helped for someone new to Raleigh 3 speeds like me.:thumb:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
(Post 14741166)
Okay I braved the wicked weather (rain and sun alternating :P) and hit the shop in between lattes and emails. ;)
Here are a couple of quick pictures via cellphone, the regular camera battery is dead and I can't find the charger base...again. I stand corrected, there are tab slots in both sides of the stays, so the tabbed bolt is probably correct. However based on previous experience I suspect they are pretty weak and get wrung off on a regular basis. All of my Sports/Superbes have the one with the tab and a Raleigh cap bolt, those are the Raleigh 26tpi. I have had my hands on 4+ DL-1 bikes of varying vintage and every one has had a regular bolt on them... go figure. Here are the pictures, now I have to go find a damned Raleigh seat post bolt...NOT! Aaron :) http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/50...425x425Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/52...425x425Q85.jpg |
Actually that is a regular bolt with a fixed head on the left side in the picture and a nut on the other, dirt cheap if you don't have to buy them in packs of 5 at the local home improvement store. This one happens to be bright plate, just kind of dirty.
Aaron :) |
2 Attachment(s)
A few months ago I posted here a '59 Raleigh as found in a hedge where it had been living for several years,
I only took it away as the farmer gave it me but then just couldn't resist the challenge (and learning curve) to get it un-seized and on the road again on a tight budget which soon went out the window. 30 miles yesterday on first run. Really fun to ride but now I have one too many bikes again! Front wheel: 2x spokes needed Rear Hub: completely overhauled, busted trigger replaced with one found in the saddle bag. New chain. Bottom Bracket, pedal arms, chain ring all had to go (worn) and replaced with much newer stock. Copious elbow grease applied. Most important thing I learned: If a bike has been dumped in a hedge, there was probably a good reason why! http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273401http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273402 http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1343246096 http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...2&d=1347913289 |
Sometimes I think I go too far just to not throw away a three speed. The latest to pass thru the shop is a '73 Phillips ladies' frame, found sitting in a leaky shed for 30 years with a bunch of cheap American junk.
Before: http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q.../Phillips1.jpg http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q.../Phillips2.jpg After (lots of oxalic acid soaking): http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...ipsLadies1.jpg http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...ipsLadies2.jpg http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...ipsLadies3.jpg |
Originally Posted by waverley610
(Post 14742563)
Most important thing I learned: If a bike has been dumped in a hedge, there was probably a good reason why!
|
Nice job, beautiful bike! What kind of headlight is this one that you have on it now? Thanks.
Originally Posted by waverley610
(Post 14742563)
A few months ago I posted here a '59 Raleigh as found in a hedge where it had been living for several years,
I only took it away as the farmer gave it me but then just couldn't resist the challenge (and learning curve) to get it un-seized and on the road again on a tight budget which soon went out the window. 30 miles yesterday on first run. Really fun to ride but now I have one too many bikes again! Front wheel: 2x spokes needed Rear Hub: completely overhauled, busted trigger replaced with one found in the saddle bag. New chain. Bottom Bracket, pedal arms, chain ring all had to go (worn) and replaced with much newer stock. Copious elbow grease applied. Most important thing I learned: If a bike has been dumped in a hedge, there was probably a good reason why! http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273401http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273402 http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1343246096 http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...2&d=1347913289 |
Originally Posted by sykerocker
(Post 14743851)
Sometimes I think I go too far just to not throw away a three speed. The latest to pass thru the shop is a '73 Phillips ladies' frame, found sitting in a leaky shed for 30 years with a bunch of cheap American junk.
Aaron :) |
On the subject of bikes in hedges, I passed this on my ride on Sunday:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...0/IMG_6632.JPG I didn't get close enough to see the date on the hub, but judging by the graphics, trigger, and the badge on the saddle, I'd say it's from the early to mid 60's. 23" frame. Been in this hedge a while (I saw it in February as well). It would be a twenty mile drive to go get it, my wife's car is very small (I don't have one) and I don't know if the owner would want to get rid of it... so I think I'll leave it there. |
Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 14744806)
On the subject of bikes in hedges, I passed this on my ride on Sunday:
....and I don't know if the owner would want to get rid of it... so I think I'll leave it there. |
Originally Posted by BRAZUCA
(Post 14743881)
Nice job, beautiful bike! What kind of headlight is this one that you have on it now? Thanks.
Thanks. Very similar to this one on ebay #360487163122 A 1940's ever ready (never ready!) battery lamp which I had going spare. The dyno-hub fitted could easily supply lighting but would dyno-hub powered lamps in use mean noticeably harder to pedal? I think so or am I already dragging that dyno behind me 24/7 when not operational? |
Originally Posted by waverley610
(Post 14745468)
The dyno-hub fitted could easily supply lighting but would dyno-hub powered lamps in use mean noticeably harder to pedal?
I think so or am I already dragging that dyno behind me 24/7 when not operational? That is, no; I have dynohubs --old ones, from the 50's-- on two bikes that I ride a lot. I have them wired up to home-made LED lights that are on all the time; no switch. These bikes are not noticeably slower than bikes without dyno-hubs. There must be some resistance, since nothing is free, but the amount of energy used to make the electricity is very small. The LED's are efficient and bright, so I'm happy with the arrangement. That said, in theory the hub does not make electricity if you're not using it. So if the light isn't turned on, or there is no light mounted, then no energy is used to make electricity. The dynohub may have a little more drag than a normal hub; I'm not sure. It's not enough to bother me, though. |
Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 14745558)
"No" to your first question, and "yes, but..." to your second.
That is, no; I have dynohubs --old ones, from the 50's-- on two bikes that I ride a lot. I have them wired up to home-made LED lights that are on all the time; no switch. These bikes are not noticeably slower than bikes without dyno-hubs. There must be some resistance, since nothing is free, but the amount of energy used to make the electricity is very small. The LED's are efficient and bright, so I'm happy with the arrangement. That said, in theory the hub does not make electricity if you're not using it. So if the light isn't turned on, or there is no light mounted, then no energy is used to make electricity. The dynohub may have a little more drag than a normal hub; I'm not sure. It's not enough to bother me, though. |
Originally Posted by gna
(Post 14746022)
Do you have pictures of your home-made lights? Are they in vintage housings?
My 1940's Fothergill currently has an ancient Lucas King of the Road light. My wife says it's ugly, can you believe that? :lol: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...2/IMG_6257.JPG Previously installed on the same bike was this one, which is a nicely made lightweight thing from Germany, I guess 60's, but it looked too French for the bike (sorry about the poor focus; transparent plastic confuses my camera): https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P...0/IMG_4786.JPG Then there's this Union housing, probably from the 70's; currently mounted on a Falcon, but here shown on a Raleigh Lenton Sports: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/IMG_5670.JPG The light on my Lambert is housed in a 'Ventor' steam valve from a radiator. I like the look. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...0/IMG_6370.JPG The lights on my RRA are in copper plumbing; these are caps for 3/4" copper pipe. Front: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...0/IMG_5467.JPG Rear: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...0/IMG_5844.JPG POP QUIZ! Who can identify all three of the BF members in the last photo? |
Dallas on the left? West shore LI heading south? :)
That's all I got. |
Originally Posted by Velognome
(Post 14746428)
Dallas on the left?
That's all I got. |
1 Attachment(s)
Currently restoring a Raleigh Sports and was wondering if anyone had any closer shots / more knowledge of these lights on the fork legs that Veloria originally posted???
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273577 |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:00 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.