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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

dweenk 04-01-17 02:06 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19482153)
I have a question or two. Last spring I bought an all original, green Raleigh Twenty with the front G6 dynohub. The chrome is very good, etc.. It was a mess, cosmetically thought from a grunge factor.
So I dove in, took it apart, spent hours & days cleaning, polishing, waxing, removing rust. Replaced cables/housings/pads, new tires, repacked all bearings, trued wheels....you know the deal. All I had to do was reinstall the rear fender & Plescher rack and I'd be done. By that time I was on R20 overload, and just set it aside. It's been months....fenders are finicky and I don't enjoy installing them.

How do I get my mojo back for this project? I've worked on other projects since then, but this little gem just sits there...

Separate question: the anti rotation washers on the bike are worn down & I can easily get some from the co-op. How important is it that these washers are robust? Specifically, the raised section that keeps the axle from rotation has smoothed down along their edges as well as thinned down.
Thanks

This is only a guess, but I would think that the NR washer would be made of harder steel than the rear axle slot. If that is correct, rounded NR shoulders could wear the edges of the slot. In other words - if you have access to good NR washers, get them.

BigChief 04-02-17 01:05 AM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19482153)
I have a question or two. Last spring I bought an all original, green Raleigh Twenty with the front G6 dynohub. The chrome is very good, etc.. It was a mess, cosmetically thought from a grunge factor.
So I dove in, took it apart, spent hours & days cleaning, polishing, waxing, removing rust. Replaced cables/housings/pads, new tires, repacked all bearings, trued wheels....you know the deal. All I had to do was reinstall the rear fender & Plescher rack and I'd be done. By that time I was on R20 overload, and just set it aside. It's been months....fenders are finicky and I don't enjoy installing them.

How do I get my mojo back for this project? I've worked on other projects since then, but this little gem just sits there...

Separate question: the anti rotation washers on the bike are worn down & I can easily get some from the co-op. How important is it that these washers are robust? Specifically, the raised section that keeps the axle from rotation has smoothed down along their edges as well as thinned down.
Thanks

I suppose a good feature of a hobby that's not needed for paying the bills is the ability to put it down for a while or quit entirely if you become bored with it. I hope the spring weather will inspire a renewed interest in 3 speeds for you. I very much enjoyed your contributions here. I think I can speak for all of us here by saying we missed you over these past months and hope you return with more projects.

BigChief 04-02-17 01:18 AM

Oh, and about the anti rotation washers. If they're scruffy at all, I change them. Ever notice there's two types? I find it handy to have both types available. One has a large wall that extends across the full diameter of the washer and the other has a very short wall next to the center hole that allows for more chain adjustment. Using the short walled washers can sometimes save you from having to use a half link when you run out of room in the dropout.

Velocivixen 04-02-17 08:56 AM

@BigChief - Thanks for the info and feedback. I've got projects to share, but don't always post because they're not a lot different from others I've done. But I know we all adore lots and lots of photos.

In Portland there is one particular co-op called City Bikes Coop. They have literally drawers and buckets full of SA parts. What I learned from someone who used to own the place before it became a coop is that it was a bike shop which specifically focused on internally geared 3-speeds! Apparently beck then more folks were riding bikes with SA hubs and this was the shop who could fix them. I believe in the '60's & '70's. Anyway if I require a part, no matter how esoteric, they will have a drawer dedicated to it!
I have noticed the different type of AR washers. The ones on this bike are very smoothed down and I highly doubt that under load they would work. I can always "borrow" some off one of the unused hubs I have languishing....I overhaul them then put them in plastic with a note saying when it was overhauled.

thumpism 04-02-17 06:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Went to the co-op for a front derailleur and a handlebar suitable for a three-speed and saw this out front. It had just arrived and the guy named a price ridiculously cheap for a Tourist. It's complete but the rims are rusty, 22" frame and hub date of '80. No room for it, no time for it and I don't particularly like these bikes, so of course I now have another one. I may not keep it for long, especially if the bride finds out it's here.

Attachment 558090

BigChief 04-03-17 03:39 AM

I think that's an excellent find, but I'm very fond of these bikes. A 22" frame is rare. I'm lucky to be tall enough to ride a 24" because they seem to always be tall frames. Until now. There's no way around the expense of replacing those Westwoods, but this bike looks to be worth it.

BigChief 04-03-17 07:59 AM

I was checking the old Raleigh catalogs online. I can't find any reference to gents DL-1s in 22" frame size. I know they were available in the UK, but from what I can tell, they were only available in the US in 24". This bike would be a real treasure to someone who had their hart set on a traditional rod brake roadster but wasn't tall enough for the 24".
http://www.bulgier.net/pics/bike/Cat...39;Tourist.jpg

nlerner 04-03-17 05:20 PM

Kind of an interesting 23" Superbe on Boston's CL for $125:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bik/6072926422.html

Don't think that rear hub is original!

gster 04-03-17 05:50 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19482153)
I have a question or two. Last spring I bought an all original, green Raleigh Twenty with the front G6 dynohub. The chrome is very good, etc.. It was a mess, cosmetically thought from a grunge factor.
So I dove in, took it apart, spent hours & days cleaning, polishing, waxing, removing rust. Replaced cables/housings/pads, new tires, repacked all bearings, trued wheels....you know the deal. All I had to do was reinstall the rear fender & Plescher rack and I'd be done. By that time I was on R20 overload, and just set it aside. It's been months....fenders are finicky and I don't enjoy installing them.

How do I get my mojo back for this project? I've worked on other projects since then, but this little gem just sits there...

Separate question: the anti rotation washers on the bike are worn down & I can easily get some from the co-op. How important is it that these washers are robust? Specifically, the raised section that keeps the axle from rotation has smoothed down along their edges as well as thinned down.
Thanks

Many projects can linger, I have several. The winter months can be tough on one's motivation.
There will be growth in the spring and all will be fine in the garden.

SirMike1983 04-03-17 08:46 PM

I have a 1978 DL-1 in the smaller frame size - great bike. Bought it for $100 some years back. Some of the plastic bits have had to be replaced over the years. Good bike though. Don't balk at the smaller size when it comes up - the 24 inch is more common. Buy the first good small frame that comes across at a reasonable price if you're looking for one. You may have to wait awhile before you see another for sale.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lhF-1xyCB...828_181112.jpg

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZzE43Z_T...828_170839.jpg

Velocivixen 04-03-17 09:06 PM

@gster - yes, regardless of how harsh the Winter, Spring guarantees a fresh start and renewal.
@SirMike1983 - very nice bike. Quite "stately".

BigChief 04-03-17 10:46 PM

Ah, I didn't look far enough. The gents 22" DL-1 first appears in the 1977 US catalog. So after many years of shipping only 24" gents frames to America, they reintroduced the 22" in the last 3 years of production. That explains their rarity.
Great looking Roadster @SirMike

thumpism 04-04-17 06:29 AM

Why does anyone even bother to advertise a bike for sale for ten dollars? Regardless, a good deal for somebody and it looks like a 23" frame.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/6059296948.html

Raleigh Glider Bike - $10

https://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_...I_1200x900.jpg

Needs work done to it but could be a fun project or useful to someone for parts. Asking $10 or best offer

thumpism 04-04-17 06:36 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19485436)
I think that's an excellent find, but I'm very fond of these bikes. A 22" frame is rare. I'm lucky to be tall enough to ride a 24" because they seem to always be tall frames. Until now. There's no way around the expense of replacing those Westwoods, but this bike looks to be worth it.

The extremely crusty tires are holding air but I have not done anything else to it. Lube will be next. No hurry. I'm also fortunate to fit a 24" Tourist and the ones that have passed through my hands before were all that size, but I've never been strongly tempted to keep one of them. We'll see how this one does.

I figure the rusty rims are a plus if they help improve the braking.

Mickey2 04-04-17 07:08 AM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 19488070)
I figure the rusty rims are a plus if they help improve the braking.

LOL, not really, the rims usually polish up well and if you use a waxy alternative like Quick Glow it lasts a couple of months. I have found Jagwire blocks performs well on steel rims, I can't find the brick red ones around here. I would love to find an old ladies Raleigh like that, especially at that price. I would bother to advertise one too. My favorite bike was an old bike I fixed up, lots of work but it was well worth it. I would happily give someone the same chance. Sometimes adds like these saves a a nice old bike from going on the dump. I know there are people out there looking for a vintage bike like that ;- )

exdraghunt 04-04-17 09:39 AM

Welp, I ended up getting myself another 3-speed off Craigslist.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...402_184706.jpg

https://scontent.fsnc1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...93&oe=595F5A09

It's a "Popular Sports Model" . Rides great, steers stops and shifts. I'm not sure what year it is, the Sturmey Archer hub says "6 11" on it.

Anyone know anything about the maker?

dweenk 04-04-17 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 19487215)
Kind of an interesting 23" Superbe on Boston's CL for $125:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bik/6072926422.html

Don't think that rear hub is original!

That is selling for the value of the Dynohub.

RaleighBikeGuy 04-04-17 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by exdraghunt (Post 19488544)
Anyone know anything about the maker?

I've never heard of the "Popular" badge, but I would assume your bike was built by Raleigh at their factory in Nottingham.This one is clean!

dweenk 04-04-17 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 19488062)
Why does anyone even bother to advertise a bike for sale for ten dollars? Regardless, a good deal for somebody and it looks like a 23" frame.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/6059296948.html

Raleigh Glider Bike - $10

https://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_...I_1200x900.jpg

Needs work done to it but could be a fun project or useful to someone for parts. Asking $10 or best offer

What is it with Richmond? I have seen more Raleigh bikes there than any other place that I can think of. I have a friend who will buy it for me, but I've been to the well twice - and I would like to save my next favor for something really nice. I hope it doesn't go to trash.

BigChief 04-04-17 04:31 PM

Nice bike. It's a Nottingham built Raleigh, but it has Birmingham style fenders. I'm going to take a guess and say Raleigh used left over fenders from their purchase of Hercules in 1960. So the bike would date to sometime close to then.

clubman 04-04-17 09:52 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 19488062)
Why does anyone even bother to advertise a bike for sale for ten dollars? Regardless, a good deal for somebody and it looks like a 23" frame.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/6059296948.html

Raleigh Glider Bike - $10

https://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_...I_1200x900.jpg

Needs work done to it but could be a fun project or useful to someone for parts. Asking $10 or best offer

Sorry, not a 23", not available then, see post http://www.bikeforums.net/19485704-post12682.html. Canadian rebrand, hence the Brooks leather but still a real value

exdraghunt 04-05-17 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by RaleighBikeGuy (Post 19489067)
I've never heard of the "Popular" badge, but I would assume your bike was built by Raleigh at their factory in Nottingham.This one is clean!

Yeah, that was my thought too. Oddly, it just says "Made in England" on it, but not Nottingham or Birmingham or anything else.

The seller says he got it through an estate sale, seems to me it was either never ridden or just barely. When I got it, there wasn't a speck of road grime anywhere, even the hubs.

Some other pics

https://68.media.tumblr.com/3fc76850...d9ko3_1280.jpghttps://68.media.tumblr.com/941cdeaa...d9ko2_1280.jpg

It looks to me like the second digit of the year on the hub wasn't stamped fully. Maybe a '61? (It also has the 'upside-down' Sturmey logo on the shifter)

https://68.media.tumblr.com/085600e4...d9ko4_1280.jpg

Mickey2 04-05-17 11:34 AM

The old rim brakes have been a bit of a fuzz, but once I discovered brake blocks suitable for steel and chromed rims it got a bit easier. I like the hub brake versions, but I think I've only seen those on roadster type bikes. I have yet to find a good way about the cottered cranks.

noglider 04-05-17 11:37 AM

I had a Popular Special briefly, which I passed on. It was just like the other Raleighs, no better, no worse.

Salubrious 04-05-17 11:48 AM


Originally Posted by Mickey2 (Post 19491109)
The old rim brakes have been a bit of a fuzz, but once I discovered brake blocks suitable for steel and chromed rims it got a bit easier. I like the hub brake versions, but I think I've only seen those on roadster type bikes. I have yet to find a good way about the cottered cranks.

A good way about the cottered cranks is to get a decent cotter press and otherwise make sure your crank is in decent shape. If you have a cotter press you will find they are easier to work on than most alloy cranks.

The roadsters have 170mm cranks but the other bikes are 165mm.


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