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Wheel building is a very good skill if getting in any deeper than mere fiddling with old bikes.
Wheel truing is a very good skill if involved with old bikes at all. Wheel building is a necessity if dealing with very old bikes, where the age is such that the rims and spokes are often rusted away or rusted solid into place (e.g., 1930s era stuff is often this way after 80+ years). |
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20456965)
Can't seem to fix the shifting on Mr. Rudge. First gear will engage only with the indicator pulled perfectly tight, which is wrong right there, and it won't stay in first, it slips up into second gear, or just slips. So much for getting some beach rides on this bike. Maybe it needs a different indicator, or who knows what. Will have to wait until September and the local bike jumble where I'll be able to pick up some parts.
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20456965)
Can't seem to fix the shifting on Mr. Rudge. First gear will engage only with the indicator pulled perfectly tight, which is wrong right there, and it won't stay in first, it slips up into second gear, or just slips. So much for getting some beach rides on this bike. Maybe it needs a different indicator, or who knows what. Will have to wait until September and the local bike jumble where I'll be able to pick up some parts.
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Originally Posted by Lawrence_S
(Post 20456750)
Thanks, Big Chief, for the welcome! Your DL-1 is top notch. Mine is more lower rung. Pics coming soon!
This model remained nearly unchanged from the late 30s all the way to the end in 1980. These big roadsters aren't for everybody, but they do have a small enthusiastic following. There's a few of us here. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bf7856dfd7.jpg |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20457351)
Well...not really. This is how it came to me. I salvaged the front mudguard, the rear is an old replacement as is the chainguard. Lots of touch up work on the frame. For some reason, as bad as the bike was rusted, the chrome was in decent condition.
This model remained nearly unchanged from the late 30s all the way to the end in 1980. These big roadsters aren't for everybody, but they do have a small enthusiastic following. There's a few of us here. |
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
(Post 20455744)
Is that a regular bar flipped up side down? Or a mustache bar?
Btw, is the drum brake really as heavy as some people say? No these are path racer bars. You can see from this angle how dropped they are |
And yes the drums are heavy, but if you are 140 lbs this is a concern. I imagine both front and back weigh less than 10 lbs so go figure as to the consequence.
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Are you certain you are in 1st and slipping to second, perhaps you are in 2nd slipping to third.
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 20457378)
Mine's an 1957 BSA Silver DeLuxe, with one of those SW hubs. I'm a bit stalled on whether to change out the hub- its slips a bit, but I really like the gear range.
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 20457350)
Fill the hub with WD40 and take it for a mile ride, then see if it holds the gear after that. You may have some dried grease in the wrong place in the hub. Its not the toggle chain!
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20457980)
Thing is when I bought the bike in the spring I took the hub apart and although there was a lot of sludge and dried grease, I got it all cleaned off, or thought I did. But your WD40 idea can't do any harm.
Before doing anything else, give the wheel a spin, and while its spinning, put the shifter in low, and as the wheel continues to spin, see if you can pull out the toggle chain any further. If you didn't do this initially when setting up the shifter, the hub may have fooled you into thinking it was in low when it was really in 2nd. |
Newb "FTLOE3S" question: Has this thread been deemed the de facto place to pose Raleigh 3-speed questions? Would I have better luck posting here or starting a new specific thread in the main C&V sub-forum in regards to bit and pieces?
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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20457351)
Well...not really. This is how it came to me. I salvaged the front mudguard...
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Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 20455565)
Now that you used (what I consider to be) the correct plural form of forum, you just made this an even more civilized place. :)
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Originally Posted by Lawrence_S
(Post 20459081)
Thanks, noglider, for the compliment. I've enjoyed your entertaining and illuminating posts during my lurking phase.
Be sure to check out my bicycle misnomenclature thread. I'm proud of my coinage in the thread title. |
Just the best thread: )
But cannot have too many pics, hey? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...29b27ec60c.jpg 3 x 3 speeds (Raleigh RSWs) on the Worcestershire Beacon. Hard work on the ascent, mad coming down; ) And we never saw one MTB. |
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 20459089)
:beer:
Be sure to check out my ... |
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...73bcb6d2d2.jpg
We are going to the highest point behind... On 3 bikes that some people laugh at here in UK: ) A great scenic route & a great day out. We might be old 'hippies' but we enjoy & use 3 speeds; ) |
Hooks not buttons
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e422a3b0c5.jpg
Might help if I foto the correct side of the Dynohub https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4410152484.jpg Twist and go https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4ba18add32.jpg I have never seen these before. Apparently after 1935 the walls of the Dynohubs had oversized elongated double spoke holes to avoid this dilemma. For this one (1934) you had a twisted curl on the hub end, instead of a button, to enable the lacing up of the wheel hub. The taller wall hub housing containing the Dynohubs meant the conventional method of inserting the buttoned spokes thru the out-of-alighned hub eyelets impossible . https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f7d31aaeff.jpg |
This isn't the official all finished photo. I still have the lights to fix. Sometimes you put a lot of work into a bike only to find that you don't like to ride it much. Not so here. This one is a nice, nice ride. A keeper. Very smooth and solid feeling.
I couldn't help myself...I scanned eBay until I found a pair of 50s English roadster grips. I know I've been jabbering on about that lately. I also know that it's not entirely rational to spend 47 dollars on a pair of old handlebar grips for a 150 dollar bike, but if I was a rational person I wouldn't have a barn of full of old 3 speeds. Go figure. Still, no more projects until I unload some bikes. There's 3 I want to keep. I routed the brake cables English style. Neater and it leaves a nice spot for the headlight. I'm used to left/front from my rod brakes anyway. My thanks to RJ the bike guy on you tube. His video of the Dyno hub was super helpful. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2dbb3fae0c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a1802165d8.jpg I left the old Dunlop Sport tires on. And they do say inflate hard! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ee017eeef.jpg The ESGE doesn't quite cover up the damage to the left chain stay. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...facbba57a7.jpg Not much wear on the rubber pedals. Don't think this bike ever saw much mileage. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...77d4ca6308.jpg |
that
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Why would the teacher give me a d-
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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20459756)
This isn't the official all finished photo. I still have the lights to fix. Sometimes you put a lot of work into a bike only to find that you don't like to ride it much. Not so here. This one is a nice, nice ride. A keeper. Very smooth and solid feeling.
I couldn't help myself...I scanned eBay until I found a pair of 50s English roadster grips. I know I've been jabbering on about that lately. I also know that it's not entirely rational to spend 47 dollars on a pair of old handlebar grips for a 150 dollar bike, but if I was a rational person I wouldn't have a barn of full of old 3 speeds. Go figure. Still, no more projects until I unload some bikes. There's 3 I want to keep. I routed the brake cables English style. Neater and it leaves a nice spot for the headlight. I'm used to left/front from my rod brakes anyway. My thanks to RJ the bike guy on you tube. His video of the Dyno hub was super helpful. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2dbb3fae0c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a1802165d8.jpg I left the old Dunlop Sport tires on. And they do say inflate hard! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ee017eeef.jpg The ESGE doesn't quite cover up the damage to the left chain stay. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...facbba57a7.jpg Not much wear on the rubber pedals. Don't think this bike ever saw much mileage. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...77d4ca6308.jpg |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 20443359)
The recent conversations about long-distance riding on a 3-speed inspired me to kit together a build and take on this challenge. The frameset is a mid-1970s Wes Mason (the second M in the MKM/Ron Kitching enterprise), full DB Reynolds 531, so reasonably light weight. To continue the keep the weight down (and compensate for the relatively heavy IGH), I went with a set of CLB brakes, a 122bcd later-model Nervar crankset with 45t ring, American Classic seat post, Brooks Swift with Ti rails, Nitto technomic stem, GB bars, and Brooks leather wrap, Shimano aero levers, Shimano A520 pedals. Wheelset is a rear 40-hole Titan Matrix and front is a Mavic with similar box section and color. Tires are Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30mm (and a bit of a tight fit between the chain stays). Rear hub is an FM with alloy shell dated Sept 1954 (okay, I cheated and went with a 4-speed!). Total weight on my hanging scale as shown is about 22.5 lbs.
The frame is a smidge on the small side for me, but that keeps the weight down for this purpose and fit feels pretty good as shown. I'll take it for a 20-30-mile test ride in the next day or so and decide if it'll suffice for a century ride next week. |
This is strange. There was no continuity from the center bulb contact to the switch pole. So I took it apart. There's not even any from the bare wires to the brass tab. I can't imaging how that could happen. That wire has been sitting still, yet it's broken under the insulation somehow. I suppose I'll have to bend those tabs back and see what horror awaits me on the other side of that Masonite. Nice soldering job huh? Those guys were really on the ball. Well, here's one thing wrong. I'll see if I can repair it and hope it's the only issue.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4eaf01e3a.jpg |
Three Speeds Plus
Spotted these sweet CCM multi-speeds at the Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show a few weeks ago. The idea of using a Sturmey-Archer three speed with a derailleur intrigues me. Perhaps its time to start some research. If the owner of these bikes in on BF, kudos for a great collection.https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...724ad81199.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3844d03cea.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...83d64ec292.jpg |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20459756)
.... I was a rational person I wouldn't have a barn of full of old 3 speeds. Go figure. ...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2dbb3fae0c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a1802165d8.jpg I |
@Buellster if$$ isn't an object you might even consider converting the Harding to a 700c wheels and the sourcing a (gasp!) new IGH wheelset with more gears, but since vintage 3 speeds are abundant and can be had relatively inexpensively in most places you might start with a purpose built 3 speed to restore and see how you like it before tackling a conversion project. YMMV
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Originally Posted by browngw
(Post 20461320)
Spotted these sweet CCM multi-speeds at the Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show a few weeks ago. The idea of using a Sturmey-Archer three speed with a derailleur intrigues me. Perhaps its time to start some research. If the owner of these bikes in on BF, kudos for a great collection.
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Since you wrote "fora", I am obliged to state that "fawna" is incorrect. This comes from having multiple aunts who were teachers. The word is "fauna" (there will be no slap across the palm with a ruler). :D
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