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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

jackbombay 03-30-20 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21392726)
Speaking of Tourists beckoning, I put mine together in "scorcher mode" as I've been treating the fenders & chain guard to remove rust & preserve the patina.

I got in a nice 20 mile spin, beautiful day today.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12fb44c4a8.jpg

Head tube angle looks absurdly laid back on that bike, I see the rear tire is slightly lower than the front tire, but...

BigChief 03-31-20 05:57 AM

I think the frame geometry is what makes these bikes so comfortable on poor road surfaces. My DL-1 is much nicer to ride on bumpy and gravel roads than my Sports.

thorstein 03-31-20 07:12 AM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21392741)
Head tube angle looks absurdly laid back on that bike, I see the rear tire is slightly lower than the front tire, but...

Yes, quite laid back; I think the lack of fenders accentuates the slack angles. It is such a smooth ride! I agree that the angles probably contribute to the ride quality, but I think the tall wide tires also play a part.

Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?

The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.

BigChief 03-31-20 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21393024)
Yes, quite laid back; I think the lack of fenders accentuates the slack angles. It is such a smooth ride! I agree that the angles probably contribute to the ride quality, but I think the tall wide tires also play a part.

Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?

The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.

Kool Stop inserts are the best pads I've found. I can see that you also have the proper distance between the brake levers and the hand grips. This helps a lot. Sometimes they get bent in too close and need to be bent out again. I also think there is some advantage to mount the front brake pads leading the stirrup like you have.

thorstein 03-31-20 08:55 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21393123)
Kool Stop inserts are the best pads I've found. I can see that you also have the proper distance between the brake levers and the hand grips. This helps a lot. Sometimes they get bent in too close and need to be bent out again. I also think there is some advantage to mount the front brake pads leading the stirrup like you have.

With the front brake leading the stirrup and adjusted with minimum clearance it really grabs.

JIMBO53 03-31-20 03:59 PM

Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f07ec624d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7cfd658db.jpg

clubman 03-31-20 04:03 PM


Originally Posted by JIMBO53 (Post 21394042)
Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.

Bike of the week award! That's pristine and I love the presstube rack still in place. That's a hard one to find these days.

Iron Horse 03-31-20 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21393212)
With the front brake leading the stirrup and adjusted with minimum clearance it really grabs.

I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

jackbombay 03-31-20 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by JIMBO53 (Post 21394042)
Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f07ec624d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7cfd658db.jpg

That bike is spectacular!!!!

Ged117 04-01-20 06:22 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21394047)
Bike of the week award! That's pristine and I love the presstube rack still in place. That's a hard one to find these days.

I have the original presstube rack for my Superbe. It looks to have been white and black. I'm thinking of refinishing it in a cream colour for my bike. Man is it a heavy part though...

I took the Peugeot with an FW alloy four-speed out for a shakedown ride yesterday. The FW shifts really nicely - I'm very happy about that. A few adjustments of the stem and seatpost to be made and of course handlebar tape.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zZ...w2054-h1540-no

BigChief 04-01-20 06:56 AM


Originally Posted by Iron Horse (Post 21394481)
I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

Later Raleigh front rod brakes use arms that offset the pads from the center line of the stirrup. This was done to smooth out the braking action making it less grabby. You can either mount the pad assembly in front or behind the stirrup. Mounting it behind the stirrup would be "leading" considering the direction the wheel rotates.

BigChief 04-01-20 07:34 AM

For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders. The holders have a split tube formed into them that is closed at one end and open at the other. So you must be careful to mount the assembly on the bike in the right direction. What you do to install the new pads is open a vise just enough to catch the sides of the tube and use a hammer and punch to drift out the old pads and press the new ones in. The Kool Stop pads have curved tops that match the radius of the rim. Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.

thorstein 04-01-20 08:53 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21394898)
For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders.
...
Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.

I did a write up a bit ago on replacing brake shoes with pictures. It was maybe a bit over-done...

Rod brake shoe/pad install/remove

Huszi 04-01-20 09:01 AM

Nice

thorstein 04-01-20 11:10 AM


Originally Posted by Iron Horse (Post 21394481)
I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

Here is a picture showing how the brake shoe holder is leading the stirrup:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...691bbaccd0.jpg
If the brake shoe is put on the other side, it isn't pushed up into the rim, so it doesn't grab as much.

avecReynolds531 04-03-20 01:53 AM

I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.

There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...93acfc041b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7d2905e3c.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b59cbb42bf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...068e08a245.jpg
to the road for this lovely old bike.

julius rensch 04-03-20 07:24 AM

avec Reynolds
 
Love that vintage Elswick...first that I have heard of that brand...is it an offshoot of Rudge or Raleigh?

Julius in Ohio

Kilroy1988 04-03-20 07:29 AM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21398348)
Love that vintage Elswick...first that I have heard of that brand...is it an offshoot of Rudge or Raleigh?

Julius in Ohio

Absolutely not... It's an old brand with a rich heritage! In fact it was one of few big UK bicycle manufacturers to evade being sucked in by the whole TI Raleigh business.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elswick_Hopper

gster 04-03-20 07:35 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 21390527)
Just popping in to see how everyone is doing during this difficult time... this really is the thread that never ends.

I hope you are all doing well.

Yes...
Look what you started!

gster 04-03-20 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21392726)
Speaking of Tourists beckoning, I put mine together in "scorcher mode" as I've been treating the fenders & chain guard to remove rust & preserve the patina.

I got in a nice 20 mile spin, beautiful day today.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12fb44c4a8.jpg

That bike looks like it really wants to go somewhere...

julius rensch 04-03-20 07:42 AM

Love mine, I've done over 60,000 miles on her....my wife and I had a pair (Gents & Ladies) from back in the early 70's
just did a few miles yesterday
Julius in Ohio

thorstein 04-03-20 08:50 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21398372)
That bike looks like it really wants to go somewhere...

Oh, it does! I don't think I've ever wished I'd taken a different bike when I'm out on it. Although I have wished I'd taken it instead of the bike I was on.

julius rensch 04-03-20 09:09 AM

DL prefered
 

Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21398503)
Oh, it does! I don't think I've ever wished I'd taken a different bike when I'm out on it. Although I have wished I'd taken it instead of the bike I was on.

I only have the 1972 Tourist these days (my Superbe was stolen) and as I pushing 80 years, I find the gearing could be a bit lower, especially on windy days,...do you have any info on changing the rear chain wheel to a 20 or 21 tooth? What would I order and from whom?
Would the chain need to be repaced?
Are the pedals on these 9/16 or something else?
Can I improve the brakes by replacing with Kool Stop Continental Salmon, without doing any extensive modification? Where can I buy them?
Sorry for all the questions...there is no one in my area that knows anything about these old bikes.

thanks, ever so much, Julius in N.W. Ohio

gster 04-03-20 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21398552)
I only have the 1972 Tourist these days (my Superbe was stolen) and as I pushing 80 years, I find the gearing could be a bit lower, especially on windy days,...do you have any info on changing the rear chain wheel to a 20 or 21 tooth? What would I order and from whom?
Would the chain need to be repaced?
Are the pedals on these 9/16 or something else?
Can I improve the brakes by replacing with Kool Stop Continental Salmon, without doing any extensive modification? Where can I buy them?
Sorry for all the questions...there is no one in my area that knows anything about these old bikes.

thanks, ever so much, Julius in N.W. Ohio

Swapping out the rear cog is fairly easy and recommended by me (60) I like 20 and 21T cogs.
I wouldn't pay more that $15.00 for one and most bike shops should have a selection.
Most likely you would need to replace the chain as well.

julius rensch 04-03-20 09:59 AM

Thanx gster
 

Originally Posted by gster (Post 21398610)
Swapping out the rear cog is fairly easy and recommended by me (60) I like 20 and 21T cogs.
I wouldn't pay more that $15.00 for one and most bike shops should have a selection.
Most likely you would need to replace the chain as well.

Thanx gester....helpful info indeed..

Julius in N. W. Ohio

thorstein 04-03-20 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21398552)
I find the gearing could be a bit lower, especially on windy days,...do you have any info on changing the rear chain wheel to a 20 or 21 tooth?

Mine had a 22T cog on the rear when I got it, & I'm pretty happy with it.


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21398552)
Can I improve the brakes by replacing with Kool Stop Continental Salmon, without doing any extensive modification? Where can I buy them?

thanks, ever so much, Julius in N.W. Ohio

I posted instructions on how to replace the brake shoes a bit ago.
Rod brake pad/shoe remove/install
Kool Stop makes replacement shoes, but I had to order through Amazon because my favorite local bike shop (LBS) wasn't able to order them.

gster 04-03-20 11:43 AM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21398636)
Thanx gester....helpful info indeed..

Julius in N. W. Ohio

There's a youtube video that shows how to remove the cog.
It's held on with a snap ring that you pry off and re install.
It's also a good opportunity to give the hub a good cleaning.
You may prefer a 22T cog as a Tourist is quite heavy.

BigChief 04-03-20 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21398851)
There's a youtube video that shows how to remove the cog.
It's held on with a snap ring that you pry off and re install.
It's also a good opportunity to give the hub a good cleaning.
You may prefer a 22T cog as a Tourist is quite heavy.

+1 on the 22 tooth cog. The 72 DL-1 will have a 46T chain ring and came standard with a 16T cog on the hub. Way too tall for me. Gearing it down made all the difference for me.
What I used was one of these 1/8" x 22 tooth dished chromed cogs and a nice new 1/8" chain. As I recall, the 112 link chain I bought fit perfectly with the 46Tx22T setup without having to remove any links..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sturmey-Arc...0AAOSwnoldUgf0

BigChief 04-03-20 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by avecReynolds531 (Post 21398143)
I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.

There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return

to the road for this lovely old bike.

That is a nice one. A lot of work, but very well worth the effort.

gster 04-03-20 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by avecReynolds531 (Post 21398143)
I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.

There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...93acfc041b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7d2905e3c.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b59cbb42bf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...068e08a245.jpg
to the road for this lovely old bike.

The brakes look to be complete which is very good.
Some of those individual parts are very hard to find.
Looks like a 22' frame, also good.
You've got a nice project ahead of you.....
please post photos as you do the work.
A great deal of advice and help is available here.


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