Head tube angle looks absurdly laid back on that bike, I see the rear tire is slightly lower than the front tire, but...

I think the frame geometry is what makes these bikes so comfortable on poor road surfaces. My DL-1 is much nicer to ride on bumpy and gravel roads than my Sports.

Yes, quite laid back; I think the lack of fenders accentuates the slack angles. It is such a smooth ride! I agree that the angles probably contribute to the ride quality, but I think the tall wide tires also play a part.

Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?

The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.

Kool Stop inserts are the best pads I've found. I can see that you also have the proper distance between the brake levers and the hand grips. This helps a lot. Sometimes they get bent in too close and need to be bent out again. I also think there is some advantage to mount the front brake pads leading the stirrup like you have.

With the front brake leading the stirrup and adjusted with minimum clearance it really grabs.

Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f07ec624d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7cfd658db.jpg

Bike of the week award! That's pristine and I love the presstube rack still in place. That's a hard one to find these days.

I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

That bike is spectacular!!!!

I have the original presstube rack for my Superbe. It looks to have been white and black. I'm thinking of refinishing it in a cream colour for my bike. Man is it a heavy part though...

I took the Peugeot with an FW alloy four-speed out for a shakedown ride yesterday. The FW shifts really nicely - I'm very happy about that. A few adjustments of the stem and seatpost to be made and of course handlebar tape.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zZ...w2054-h1540-no

Later Raleigh front rod brakes use arms that offset the pads from the center line of the stirrup. This was done to smooth out the braking action making it less grabby. You can either mount the pad assembly in front or behind the stirrup. Mounting it behind the stirrup would be "leading" considering the direction the wheel rotates.

For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders. The holders have a split tube formed into them that is closed at one end and open at the other. So you must be careful to mount the assembly on the bike in the right direction. What you do to install the new pads is open a vise just enough to catch the sides of the tube and use a hammer and punch to drift out the old pads and press the new ones in. The Kool Stop pads have curved tops that match the radius of the rim. Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.

I did a write up a bit ago on replacing brake shoes with pictures. It was maybe a bit over-done...

Rod brake shoe/pad install/remove

Nice

Here is a picture showing how the brake shoe holder is leading the stirrup:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...691bbaccd0.jpg
If the brake shoe is put on the other side, it isn't pushed up into the rim, so it doesn't grab as much.

I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.

There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...93acfc041b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7d2905e3c.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b59cbb42bf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...068e08a245.jpg
to the road for this lovely old bike.

avec Reynolds
 

Absolutely not... It's an old brand with a rich heritage! In fact it was one of few big UK bicycle manufacturers to evade being sucked in by the whole TI Raleigh business.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elswick_Hopper

Yes...
Look what you started!

That bike looks like it really wants to go somewhere...

Love mine, I've done over 60,000 miles on her....my wife and I had a pair (Gents & Ladies) from back in the early 70's
just did a few miles yesterday
Julius in Ohio

Oh, it does! I don't think I've ever wished I'd taken a different bike when I'm out on it. Although I have wished I'd taken it instead of the bike I was on.

DL prefered
 

Swapping out the rear cog is fairly easy and recommended by me (60) I like 20 and 21T cogs.
I wouldn't pay more that $15.00 for one and most bike shops should have a selection.
Most likely you would need to replace the chain as well.

Thanx gster
 

Mine had a 22T cog on the rear when I got it, & I'm pretty happy with it.

I posted instructions on how to replace the brake shoes a bit ago.
Rod brake pad/shoe remove/install
Kool Stop makes replacement shoes, but I had to order through Amazon because my favorite local bike shop (LBS) wasn't able to order them.

There's a youtube video that shows how to remove the cog.
It's held on with a snap ring that you pry off and re install.
It's also a good opportunity to give the hub a good cleaning.
You may prefer a 22T cog as a Tourist is quite heavy.

+1 on the 22 tooth cog. The 72 DL-1 will have a 46T chain ring and came standard with a 16T cog on the hub. Way too tall for me. Gearing it down made all the difference for me.
What I used was one of these 1/8" x 22 tooth dished chromed cogs and a nice new 1/8" chain. As I recall, the 112 link chain I bought fit perfectly with the 46Tx22T setup without having to remove any links..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sturmey-Arc...0AAOSwnoldUgf0

That is a nice one. A lot of work, but very well worth the effort.

The brakes look to be complete which is very good.
Some of those individual parts are very hard to find.
Looks like a 22' frame, also good.
You've got a nice project ahead of you.....
please post photos as you do the work.
A great deal of advice and help is available here.