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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

Iron Horse 04-03-20 06:04 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21395305)
Here is a picture showing how the brake shoe holder is leading the stirrup:

If the brake shoe is put on the other side, it isn't pushed up into the rim, so it doesn't grab as much.

Thank you for the picture! It puts into perspective what you and Bigchief put into words!

avecReynolds531 04-04-20 12:35 AM

Thanks to BigChief and gster for encouragement and the evaluation of the Elswick.
I was kindly sent this scan of the 1960 catalogue which shows the spec of the Light Roadster. From what I can see, the bike is missing the rear reflector from the mudguard/ fender, the pump/ inflator and the toolbag from the saddle. Maybe the Miller bottle dynamo and lights were fitted later or as extras.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4e2b06b15.jpg

gster 04-04-20 07:31 AM


Originally Posted by avecReynolds531 (Post 21399819)
Thanks to BigChief and gster for encouragement and the evaluation of the Elswick.
I was kindly sent this scan of the 1960 catalogue which shows the spec of the Light Roadster. From what I can see, the bike is missing the rear reflector from the mudguard/ fender, the pump/ inflator and the toolbag from the saddle. Maybe the Miller bottle dynamo and lights were fitted later or as extras.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4e2b06b15.jpg

Looks like yours was the Maroon colour.

gster 04-04-20 07:37 AM

Seriously....?
Posted on Kijiji in Toronto
A Triumph bicycle frame @ $250.00
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5362843802.jpg

BigChief 04-04-20 07:31 PM


Originally Posted by avecReynolds531 (Post 21399819)
Thanks to BigChief and gster for encouragement and the evaluation of the Elswick.
I was kindly sent this scan of the 1960 catalogue which shows the spec of the Light Roadster. From what I can see, the bike is missing the rear reflector from the mudguard/ fender, the pump/ inflator and the toolbag from the saddle. Maybe the Miller bottle dynamo and lights were fitted later or as extras.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4e2b06b15.jpg

The reflector in the catalog picture appears to be similar to the Lucas rubber case reflectors used on Raleighs. For a 1960 bike, you would want one 2 inches across. That's including the case. They can be found on eBay. Most will have the Raleigh "RI" logo, but plain ones are not too hard to find. One of the biggest challenges one faces with rod brake bikes with rust issues are the Westwood rims. Hopefully yours are still sound enough to be usable. You can use a wire brush in a drill to clean out rust from the inside of the rims and give the insides a coat of paint to protect the exposed steel. The other chrome parts may come out nicely, but they won't be as rust resistant than they were originally. Wax does a good job of protecting cleaned up chrome.

julius rensch 04-04-20 09:01 PM

so great to see the Catalouge
 

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21401090)
The reflector in the catalog picture appears to be similar to the Lucas rubber case reflectors used on Raleighs. For a 1960 bike, you would want one 2 inches across. That's including the case. They can be found on eBay. Most will have the Raleigh "RI" logo, but plain ones are not too hard to find. One of the biggest challenges one faces with rod brake bikes with rust issues are the Westwood rims. Hopefully yours are still sound enough to be usable. You can use a wire brush in a drill to clean out rust from the inside of the rims and give the insides a coat of paint to protect the exposed steel. The other chrome parts may come out nicely, but they won't be as rust resistant than they were originally. Wax does a good job of protecting cleaned up chrome.

.................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .......................................................
So great to see the ELSWICK CATALOGUE..what was the city of manufacture?

Julius in Ohio

clubman 04-04-20 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21401193)
.................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .......................................................
So great to see the ELSWICK CATALOGUE..what was the city of manufacture?

Julius in Ohio

Elswick, in the north near Newcastle upon Tyne.

avecReynolds531 04-05-20 01:15 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21401090)
The reflector in the catalog picture appears to be similar to the Lucas rubber case reflectors used on Raleighs. For a 1960 bike, you would want one 2 inches across. That's including the case. They can be found on eBay. Most will have the Raleigh "RI" logo, but plain ones are not too hard to find. One of the biggest challenges one faces with rod brake bikes with rust issues are the Westwood rims. Hopefully yours are still sound enough to be usable. You can use a wire brush in a drill to clean out rust from the inside of the rims and give the insides a coat of paint to protect the exposed steel. The other chrome parts may come out nicely, but they won't be as rust resistant than they were originally. Wax does a good job of protecting cleaned up chrome.

Thank you Bigchief, appreciate this - very informative and interesting.

gster 04-05-20 08:58 AM

Raleigh Superbe
here's another one for sale in Toronto..
They must have sold these by the truckload!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1b819459ad.png
A fairly clean example but with an asking price of $300 I would expect to see an original front fender and pedals.
A key is also a welcome bonus.

oldveloman 04-05-20 10:47 AM

Hi all,
A few months ago, while searching for parts and stuff on a local motorcycle swap meet, I found a nice little tool in a box of junk…
We all know that BB-cups can be a real challenge to get out when they have been sitting in a frame for ages…

There’ s some tools available - as mentioned in this thread before - but mostly only suitable for the right hand cup.
The one I picked up ( for some pocket change ) can do both sides perfectly well…
I do have to admit that I had to reshape it a bit to take standard Raleigh cups and also had to add a threaded bar to make it usuable for the right hand side (fixed) cup as well, but, anyway, I now could - finally - dismantle all those frames with rusted-solid BB-cups…

Top picture: as bought. Below: reshaped to fit standard Raleigh cups

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9de44a205.jpg

Below: using the tool on left hand side cup

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a08c418ca4.jpg

Below: using only the inner bush on the right hand side cup ( fixed cup - left hand thread )

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fcbf155f27.jpg

I also had to use my hot air gun, as all these cups had been sitting there for decades...

Peter

dweenk 04-05-20 12:46 PM

Peter, would you give more detail on the modification you made to the tool; and could a similar tool be built from hardware available now?

Ged117 04-05-20 03:28 PM

I started work on the '56 Sports step-through I am bringing up to snuff for my fiance. I have a donor '72 Sports, and I'm using the AW-equipped wheel from it for this '56 until next winter. The bike came with an SW three-speed from early in SW production - October 1956. The hub shifts poorly (I suspect that is why the cycle is in such nice shape) and after reading Sheldon's pieces on that SW's design faults I've decided not to bother with it for this application. The '72 AW looked pretty good inside after I cracked it open despite an obviously rough and neglected life for the rest of the donor bike. Waiting in the wings is an AW dated July 1956. If she likes the bike - and I think she will - I plan to build an alloy wheelset to lighten things up. I'll use the '56 hub for that to keep things period correct and keep the '72 as spare. Anyway, I always enjoy opening up these hubs, cleaning them, and packing in new bearings and grease. Tick, tick, tick...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jv...w2054-h1540-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rA...w1156-h1540-no

gster 04-06-20 06:46 AM

A Reasonable price
Raleigh Glider in Hamilton offered at $50.00..
That's some saddle...
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...388431ef38.jpg

gster 04-06-20 07:36 AM

Big Chief was ahead of the curve...
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...30ae6034d8.jpg

oldveloman 04-06-20 08:54 AM


Originally Posted by dweenk (Post 21402020)
Peter, would you give more detail on the modification you made to the tool; and could a similar tool be built from hardware available now?

Hi dweenk, the tool was only suitable for use on the left hand side cup, as there was no means of screwing a bar into the inner bush to clamp it onto the frame,
so I bored a hole and cut M8 thread in it. Now it can be used on both sides.

Here' s a quick drawing:


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...55ae28204b.jpg
Enjoy,

Peter

gster 04-06-20 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by oldveloman (Post 21403291)
Hi dweenk, the tool was only suitable for use on the left hand side cup, as there was no means of screwing a bar into the inner bush to clamp it onto the frame,
so I bored a hole and cut M8 thread in it. Now it can be used on both sides.

Here' s a quick drawing:


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...55ae28204b.jpg
Enjoy,

Peter

Hozan Bottom Bracket Tool
A friend of mine gave me one of these..
I rarely remove the fixed cup.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b0487e4101.jpg
In fact, the only one I've removed was from a 1930 Hercules and it practically slipped out....
Different alloys back then.
In fact, the whole bike (including cotters) came apart without any fuss.

JoshuaTSR 04-06-20 02:25 PM

I finally pumped some air into my old tires on my 1948 Humber Sports and did a quick test ride since the tires are dry rotted and the brakes are hard as rocks so I disconnected them. Bike rode ok but I think that it's not for me. I really like my banana seat ride so I'll be posting up my ride for sale. The front dyno works and so do the headlight and taillight. Has a brooks saddle and the 3 speed needs some work but it kind of works. Would asking $300 be too much? I'll try to take some pics for you guys but she has ape hanger handlebars from Raleigh I think.

Also I'm just trying to post more so I can do PM's with folks.

tincup 04-06-20 04:53 PM


Originally Posted by buck mulligan (Post 10436477)
When I get discouraged about the rebuild I'm doing - all the work, all the challenges - it's threads like this one that renew my motivation. Thanks, all!

i'm stocking up on inspiration right now because I'm about to embark on my first rebuild. browsing all the picture threads to give me courage!

gster 04-06-20 06:57 PM


Originally Posted by tincup (Post 21404176)
i'm stocking up on inspiration right now because I'm about to embark on my first rebuild. browsing all the picture threads to give me courage!

It might be easier to build a "rider" first.
A show bike can be a bit overwhelming and expensive.
A lot of the bikes here are long term projects.
I like to get a bike on the road asap and then upgrade as time and money permit.
It's mostly labour to take apart clean and re assemble.
new tires, brake pads and chain are reasonable.
A nice leather saddle can be the biggest expense.
Post some photos as you progress.

JoshuaTSR 04-06-20 08:24 PM

Man I just looked at my bike and it's a 4 speed and not a 3 speed. I didn't know that they made those.

Ged117 04-07-20 06:24 AM


Originally Posted by JoshuaTSR (Post 21404503)
Man I just looked at my bike and it's a 4 speed and not a 3 speed. I didn't know that they made those.

Post some photos if you can of the whole bike, decals, and drive-side. A few pics of the four-speed hub would be cool as well. I have a '53 four-speed hub built into a 700c wheelset for my '70s Peugeot IGH conversion. It is a really good hub when set up correctly.

JoshuaTSR 04-07-20 07:57 AM

My 1948 4 speed
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47ac6f18d2.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...de5e3779f9.jpg
Wide bars
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d670361c64.jpg
I love that this works still and lights up the front and rear lights.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b8fc86795a.jpg
4 speed glory
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3f06b96dde.jpg

bluesteak 04-07-20 12:22 PM

Benelux deraileur
 

Originally Posted by PeterLYoung (Post 21275056)
Yes I am sure 700c wheels will work OK though they will be about 26-3/4" dia overall with tyres so will require brake blocks to be about 3/8" higher than for 26" wheel, many frames can accommodate this.
I have a couple of 1950's road bikes that were designed for 27" wheels which are normally on them but I have alternative 700c wheel sets I can put in them and then I have to lower the brake block FCC s around 4mm when to align to the braking surface when using them.
If you are using a Cyclo Benelux Mk 7 derailleur, I have 4 Speed one on a 1950's Dayton Roadmaster running 27 x 1" wheels and freewheel bottom gear has 22 teeth (top gear is 16T) which it manages easily, not sure you could go more than that. I have a 46T Chainwheel.

I started to work on the hopper, and have built wheels. I went with sun cr18 590 rims. I am working on the drivetrain now. The deraileur is stamped 3/32 5 speed, 1/8 4 speed. If I buy a 4 speed freewheel do I assume it will be for 1/8 chain? The other problem I am having is the bottom bracket only protrudes 1 inch on the drive side instead of 1.25 inches. What is with that? I will need to replace it to fit a “normal” chainring.

Any thoughts or advise would help.

Sorry to horn in on the 3 speed conversation, with deraileur questions.

PeterLYoung 04-07-20 01:09 PM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21405572)
I started to work on the hopper, and have built wheels. I went with sun cr18 590 rims. I am working on the drivetrain now. The deraileur is stamped 3/32 5 speed, 1/8 4 speed. If I buy a 4 speed freewheel do I assume it will be for 1/8 chain? The other problem I am having is the bottom bracket only protrudes 1 inch on the drive side instead of 1.25 inches. What is with that? I will need to replace it to fit a “normal” chainring.

Any thoughts or advise would help.

Sorry to horn in on the 3 speed conversation, with deraileur questions.

just noticed your post, if it helps I am running 3/32” chain on my 4 speed derailleur with the Cyclo Benelux Mk 7. The bike is circa 1955 or earlier Dayton Roadmaster. It works OK.

c0rbin9 04-07-20 03:17 PM

<3 Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs, the shifting feel is so smooth compared to derailleurs.

clubman 04-07-20 03:41 PM


Originally Posted by JoshuaTSR (Post 21405023)
My 1948 4 speed
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47ac6f18d2.jpg

Wide bars

I love that this works still and lights up the front and rear lights.

4 speed glory

That crankset has me befuddled. Looks like a 70's chainwheel. Did you add it?

thorstein 04-07-20 04:46 PM

grease AW bearings
 
I've got a '69 AW on my Raleigh Twenty. When coasting it sounds a little loud, so I added quite a bit of oil. The sound has gone down a bit, but I realized it might need grease in the bearings instead of oil in the gears as my '74 AW on my Tourist is much smoother/quieter.

Does anyone know how easy it is to just grease the bearings & not overhaul the whole hub? Shifting is smooth & accurate.

JoshuaTSR 04-07-20 05:00 PM

No I didn't add it. Most of these bikes have a chain guard that covers everything so you don't see it. I like the way it looks, like people holding hands in peace.

JoshuaTSR 04-07-20 05:04 PM

The tires are old schwinn breeze 26 x 1 1/4 though, does anyone have a good line on tires for these bikes?

JoshuaTSR 04-07-20 05:31 PM

Ok guys what's the correct tire size? My rear tire is a uniroyal straight side that says 26x1 3/8 but it also says fits EA-1 and schwinn s-6 times while my front tire is a schwinn breeze sports touring 26x1 1/4.

If I can do the 1 3/8's then I'll just grab some cheap Walmart tires just so I can ride. What do you think?


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