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For those who are using Stans, how are you putting the stuff in your tires? I've tried with the small bottle, and it tends to make a mess. I've seen kits that seem to be a 5cc syringe, a heavy gauge IV cannula, and an extension tube. Are those good for the job? Despite riding sew-ups since the early eighties, this autumn was my first time trying sealant.
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I remove the valve core then put the small bottle tight against the valve with very little mess.
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Originally Posted by MooneyBloke
(Post 22762488)
For those who are using Stans, how are you putting the stuff in your tires? I've tried with the small bottle, and it tends to make a mess. I've seen kits that seem to be a 5cc syringe, a heavy gauge IV cannula, and an extension tube. Are those good for the job? Despite riding sew-ups since the early eighties, this autumn was my first time trying sealant.
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I use Orange Seal which is available in a small squeeze bottle with a clear plastic hose that fits over the valve stem. As mentioned above the trick is to remove the valve core first. Also, position the wheel with the valve somewhere around the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position when filling so that the sealant inside the tire flows away from the valve.
Brent |
Originally Posted by MooneyBloke
(Post 22762488)
For those who are using Stans, how are you putting the stuff in your tires? I've tried with the small bottle, and it tends to make a mess. I've seen kits that seem to be a 5cc syringe, a heavy gauge IV cannula, and an extension tube. Are those good for the job? Despite riding sew-ups since the early eighties, this autumn was my first time trying sealant.
I have such a kit, but the syringe is 60cc. The tube screws onto the valve stem. Works well. Just need to clean it well after use. And I learned a new word. Thanks. |
I do remove the core, but sometimes if the tire moves at all, air coming out pushes Stans out of the stem making a mess. I figure the cannula would get the stuff past the stem making this problem less likely.
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Originally Posted by CV-6
(Post 22763111)
I have such a kit, but the syringe is 60cc.
My oopsie. I do wonder why some of those kits have a stopcock on the extension tube. Consequence of repurposing medical equipment maybe. |
I use a syringe and remove the valve core: very little mess
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Rule one; don't use sealant in a tubular tire with latex tubes. Too sticky and when its reinflated, can tear the latex tube.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6cdc12b83f.png Circa 1973 |
Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
(Post 22731602)
All done, no muss, no fuss. For posterity, I took some pics:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e8907e1f_h.jpg DD |
Originally Posted by chain_whipped
(Post 22773543)
Rule one; don't use sealant in a tubular tire with latex tubes. Too sticky and when its reinflated, can tear the latex tube.
Circa 1973 Brent |
Originally Posted by obrentharris
(Post 22774459)
I've been using sealant in tubulars with latex tubes for a few years. But I make sure that my tubulars never go completely flat between rides, which is bad for the tubes anyway if the bike is sitting upright on its tires. This only requires me to re-inflate every week or two, which might get to be a chore if you have a collection of 20 bikes but I only have three bikes with tubulars.
Brent |
While I'm mainly riding Veloflex these days, I do have a few old Conti Sprinters I'd like to marshal into duty as spares. The main issue is that I've never found a good adhesive for sticking the base tape on those. Good cotton tires do well with Val-A Tear Mender. (Trust the Bish!) This stuff doesn't work in any way with the Continentals. Has anyone tried E6000 for this job? Any success here?
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You can buy a basting syringe at a dollar store. The metal needle is small enough to fit inside the Presta valve sleeve once the valve is removed.
Cheers |
Originally Posted by MooneyBloke
(Post 22775111)
While I'm mainly riding Veloflex these days, I do have a few old Conti Sprinters I'd like to marshal into duty as spares. The main issue is that I've never found a good adhesive for sticking the base tape on those. Good cotton tires do well with Val-A Tear Mender. (Trust the Bish!) This stuff doesn't work in any way with the Continentals. Has anyone tried E6000 for this job? Any success here?
https://www.bikeforums.net/21100877-post1341.html |
Originally Posted by Classtime
(Post 22777153)
Maybe try this?
https://www.bikeforums.net/21100877-post1341.html Incidentally, I've also experimented with several high strength industrial neoprene adhesives from 3M, and the adhesion is still poor. Basically, the carcass rubber seems both very slick and impermeable to most glues. Maybe there's a solvent prep that might help, but I've not experimented here. |
Here's a question for the peanut gallery: why the hell is Conti glue so damned expensive these days? My old 350g can for which I payed $25 at my LBS is nearly gone. No matter where I look, it seems they want about $70 for the same thing. While it's been a while since I've purchased glue, the jump in price seems unreasonable to me. The tires themselves have gone up a bit, but by a reasonable amount.
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Originally Posted by MooneyBloke
(Post 22812906)
why the hell is Conti glue so damned expensive these days?
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Yep. I used to use Continental also. I’m about 1/2 way through my can of Mastic One at the moment. I’ve been using it on my Continental tires without problems😉
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Originally Posted by Positron400
(Post 22773669)
Amazing looking bike...what are those rims? I'd absolutely love to get me some of those for my randonneur. The rims are Mavic Reflex SUPs with machined sidewall treatment. Compared to vintage tubular rims (on which the braking surface is a mere suggestion), the machined track is a game-changer. I found them on Ebay, from a seller in Australia. They pop up from time to time. Good luck in your search! DD |
It was covid time and affordable spokes were like hens teeth. I had a tubular repair build (two broken spokes side by side on the same ride, used, mismatched build at that). The calculator calls for 296 and 298, and toward the end of that madnness I was able to find a box of 298. Figuring I would build both sides with this length. What say you members of the totally tubular thread? Mavic Monthlery Pro with Campagnolo Record. Just this afternoon I got it taken apart. Now that it's written down I realize I could potentially nip 18 of those spokes if necessary. I'm thinking it's not necessary.
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
(Post 22813073)
Can't tell ya, but Vittoria Mastik One is available at $25/250g.
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Originally Posted by SJX426
(Post 22690357)
Some of you have probably seen my 1971 Bianchi build - Bike Forums. Several years ago, I found an add on CL a batch of NISI TORO rims.
Fopr the Bianchi, I finally purchased spokes after years of procrastination. Did the measure of ERD to be sure as I could not find specs for the NISI. Built them up last week and will mount 25 Vittori Corsa G+ on them. They are not glued in the pic. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...801aeeda_b.jpg71BianchiFWTruing on Flickr https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...501fa62525.jpg |
Originally Posted by Classtime
(Post 22813148)
Yep. I used to use Continental also. I’m about 1/2 way through my can of Mastic One at the moment. I’ve been using it on my Continental tires without problems😉
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
(Post 22725544)
My weight fluctuates between 180 and 195, but I don't know that it has any bearing on my 'ride requirements'. My riding style demands a planted rear end, and a front end I can lean on, plus I take a lot of feedback from the road surface into consideration when I make moves. All of this requires a hard-blown set of tires with which to transfer the info to my hands, feet, and butt. Sounds funny, but it's true. Low pressures induce a feeling like being on a pogo stick, and the feedback is mushy and inconsistent; I cant plant the rear end, much less do anything with precision regarding the front end, with tires performing with too much bounce/rebound.
High pressures do allow the occasional skipping of the rear or front tire, but again, feedback is such that I know when it's going to happen, and reflexes compensate. Like catching a moment of oversteer in a car. The Alpina was fitted (unknowingly) with the aforementioned Elites, and taken up to 115psi, which was still squishy and ponderous-feeling, when someone here noted the sidewalls said the pressure was limited to 105psi. First time I noticed the rating didn't match the ad copy, and I couldn't imagine the feeling if I were to let out 10psi. Anyway, those are still on the bike, but I didn't bring it with me and it won't see much use (now a zero bike in WA), for good reason. The 'cushy ride' many describe when running tubulars at lower pressures simply translates into 'bouncing' for me and my sensitive contact points. I know I'm an outlier :) DD |
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