I spent part of today looking at a tire I fixed a month ago. It's been feeling bumpy and has a slight visible bump. I was afraid my stitching was coming apart. So today I pulled it off the rim and pulled the rim strip off the tire. I was afraid my stitching was coming apart. But no, the stitching was fine. I can feel the patch through the thread. Well, I'm not about to pull the threads apart. They were solid so it would be way too much work for the benefit. In any case I'm prep'ing a different set of wheels for that bike anyway.

This thread is over 10 years old! It's amazing how it remains useful!

I guess zombies are a force for good ...

Therapeutic glue job.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...515160041a.jpg

It will buff out.

Good tip, thanks.

My solution to tubular glue mess: I buy a box of those liquid syringes to put the glue on a new tire. First, I mount the tire on the (used) rim DRY, paritally inflate, center the tire, then deflate it. Then, I use the syringe to suck dry the tubular glue container (Tubasti is my favorite), then use the syringe to squirt just a little bit under the tape between each spoke hole. Makes almost zero mess, and the syringe can be sealed with no air captured for future use, as well.

BTW, regarding FasTack-yes, it dries quickly, but it also dries OUT, and will leave you un-glued in as little as 1 year, so don't consider any FasTack glue job anything more than just temporary. Use only when you need it to set quickly.

+1 for the 3M Fast Tack, even if this a Zombie, it is good stuff for the C&V Forum. The LBS I haunt swears by Fast Tack, and it is a strong adhesive. The poing about its life span is something to keep in mind, if you have tubbies on the rims for that long a period.

As expensive the name tubular glues can be, things like 3M Fast Tack, and DAP Maximum Strength contact adhesive can make more sense.

But, there is something nostalgic about those rainbow stripes on a Velox Tubasti tube:50:, and the hands like those pictured, along with cleaning the adhesive off:notamused: of rims and tire side walls.

Bill

Does that ever look familiar! Finger nail polish remover takes it off pretty easily.

This thread is not a zombie - it is immortal!

My hands always send up looking like that.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...0515161134.jpg

Two brand new tires on, and I replaced my really ancient spare with a pretty good one.

3M Fast Tack 08031 Discontinued!
 

Need to find a new gluing method and material!

Already been done, used the Maximum Bond contact adhesive last weekend to glue on a set of tubs to a new wheelset I built. Easy to find, and much less expensive than Tubasti, Continental cement or the others. The shop keeps giving me a hard time for not switching to the tubular tire tape. Maybe some day, maybe.......

Bill

Gosh, i've read parts of this thread over the years.

responding to a call for a 'new' method for gluing that is very clean & easy.
probably been described in this thread many times.

pre-stretch tires well
coat the tire & rim
let em dry overnight
2nd coat, if you are so inclined
let em dry, in Seattle maybe 2 overnights
if the glue is dry enough they should mount without it getting on braking surface.
after the tires are seated to your satisfaction (not my topic here)

deflate to a low enough pressure that the short disposable brush can get between tire and rim to coat all the way to the edge of the rim. It takes the tiniest amount and goes quickly. I have also seen toothpicks, shirt collar stays, etc used for this final step.

disclaimer: if you have 2 coats of glue on rim & tire, and do not worry about full adhesion to the edge of the rim - chances are you should be fine in almost any situation. But as a 195# rider, I prefer the insurance for any hot, or curvy, or very fast ride i might get involved with.

Apologies if this has been previously championed.

Who is the maker of "Maximum Bond contact adhesive"?

BTW... I found one last full tube of the 3M 08031! :):):)

The Highlander of threads!

My contribution today for the thread that just won't die.

@Wildwood +1 for posting this procedure. JUst a few differences for my tubbie mounting drill:
Its much the same procedure here, but I don't stretch the new tires a great deal. Continental has a warning about this in the product literature in the packaging. Strange though, their You Tube videos all tell you to stretch the tires last time I watched one, but its been a while.

The contact cement is made by DAP, the adhesives people that make a good deal of the various caulks, glues and other construction/home improvement items. I get it at Lowes, but its pretty much in any hardware store or Home Center.

Lots of sizes available, but I just get the pint can to avoid having a can sit after it is opened and some gets used. I haven't had any roll off failures so far, thank goodness.

Bill

"...short disposable brush can get between the tire and rim....."
Good luck trying to do that!. Even with pre-stretched tires, there's no way you can stick a glue laden brush tip in between the tire and rim...... no way!.....
You'll just end up with a big mess trying to do so.......

This thread almost makes me want to take my tubular wheelsets out of retirement . . . . .

I love the way tubulars ride but it has been a long time since I've used them. My tubulars are so old I can't decide whether they've been properly aged or just too old to ride, :)

Yeah, I've adopted the syringe method for those gap areas... Got a big pack of them at the art supply store.

+1 on this. If the the tyre is seated and is glued on how could you get anything in there?
I don't get the two layers of glue either is that in case i missed a bit?
Whats the thinking behind a layer of glue over a layer of glue? You wouldn't put a second layer of tape on would you?
I have never felt the need for a second layer.

I think the two layers idea is only for new or very clean rims... like primer for paint.

Yeah, only new rims. A single coat isn't quite enough material if using mastic type glue (ie Vittoria). On previously glued rims, one thin coat on the rim is sufficient. Ideally you want to see an even squeeze out of tiny beads all the way around the rim. And BTW, the glue should still be tacky when you mount the tire. If using traditional rim cement, letting it dry first because you want less clean up is foolish. Glue on rim can be cleaned up with naphtha or whatever.

If using contact cement the whole procedure is different.

Most of the references I have read indicate two applications on the base tape. The first is easily absorbed providing a base for the second which is not absorbed as much.

So far I have not had to resort to the brush in the space to touch up any glue jobs. I was taught to zip tie in regular intervals and on each side of the valve stem and let the wheel set overnight at a minimum to allow everything to bond properly. With the hand tremors the P.D. brings me there is no way I could/would attempt that.

Bill