Only one stackable pedal? (Speedplay SYZR)
 

Any other ones?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...712dd3dea8.jpg

I'm not aware of any other pedal like that. Do they even make Syzrs anymore? They were terrible the one time I tried them. All the time they took designing, testing, modifying, redesigning, and this was what they came up with? I'm not sure what was worse, these or Frogs. For all the good pedals they've made they've some truly mind boggling f ups. I've had brand new Zeros and cleats that the girls on the team I worked for couldn't engage no matter what. I put one girl's shoes on and at 50lbs more body weight than her I couldn't engage either. At the retail level they're basically unsellable at times. No idea what the new pedals are like, we won't order them.

Is this to raise the pedal to compensate for a shorter leg? I run pedals that I cannot (at least easily) do that to and compensate for my 1/2" shorted right leg by placing a 1/4" shim of plate aluminum between the shoe and the cleat. It's a pain making the shims (bending 1/4" plate to the shape of the shoe is hard!) but the end result is that I sit in alignment with the bike and look down the center of the front wheel and frame for the first time ever.

If this is for another reason, I want to hear it. 50 years of cycling and I"m still learning.

Yes, I only need ~1/4". If I could get a few millimeters at the pedal and a few at the insole, I will be even.
I do not wear cleats.

Another approach - get some shoe sole rubber (It comes in sheets of varying thicknesses inc. 1/4") and glue it on to the bottom of the sole with 3M 5200. (Goggle 3M 5200 or West Marine; they carry it.) It is unlike any other glue so read the instructions carefully. It is expensive; probably $30 or more for a standard grease gun tube. Once opened, the whole tube cures in days; barely slower than the portion you applied as glue. Give it 3 or more days to set up.

This is a permanent fix. Boat builders use it to glue fiberglass decks to fiberglass hulls. Yes, they also go around and fasten with bolts every 6-8" but you can remove the bolts and pick the boat up by the deck. If there is failure, it will be the fiberglass, not the glue. I did this with two of my shoes that are MTB shoes but with the plate shim under the cleat, I was walking on just the cleat with that foot. Now the cleat just touches as I walk, but so does the other shoe. Footing is excellent.

I don't know where to send you to get sole rubber. Here in Portland I can get it from Oregon Leather. They might have an on-line presence. A cobble will certainly know but may well be unwilling to give up trade secrets. (He will however be willing to do the work. My first several pairs of cycling shoes were done by a local cobbler and his work was excellent.)

I get rubber sheet from Grainger. 1/8" and 1/4" thicknesses. 60A or 75A durometer. Essentially the same rubber used for shoe soles (and many tires).

I use it to replace the toe and heel protection on my road shoes. Much better than the hard and slippery plastic some shoes come with.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...66653f5a5f.png

Thanks, your post is very helpful, as I am considering buying a Ride Concepts Hellion Elite and adhering a gum type sole to it if I can find it.

you might be able to fab up in-between spacers for the shoe to clipless section. It would also require longer hardware.

He's not running clipless but for those of us who do, yes. I bring my cleat bolts to Ace Hardware and pick a bolt I like closest to 1/4" longer for the aluminum plate I shim with. (6mm)

For the material, if I needed it, I'd go to a local supplier of cable and hoses (hydraulic, pneumatic, etc) because they sell all types of sheet materials from slick plastic to foam rubber of various densities to hard rubber of various hardnesses. They've always been willing to sell me ends and pieces by the square foot. I like it because I tell them vaguely what I'm looking for and they take me back and let me look and touch the stuff until I find what will work.