Peugeot PA10L - 1975, restoration.
 

Hello everyone,

Last weekend i have found my old Peugeot bike stored in a box and i want to restore it as original is possible.
I think is original as 95% , thinking saddle is not from that period and cassete and chain maybe.
- it has Stronglight crankset 52-45
-Simplex Prestige derraileurs
- Mafac Racer breaks
-AVA stern
- Mavic aluminium wheels with Normandy hubs

And some photos ...they are just like i was have found it.

- can't attach them yet since i don't have 10 posts

On wheelhub and rear derraileur is stamped 75 , so this might be a '75 bike . Some decals are missing too.

I don't know what to do with frame , just restore the old paint or put a new one and new decals according to that period.

Please excuse my English too, is not my main language. If you have other question , looking forward to answer .

Best regards,

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Thank you ehcoplex ! I think i did it :) . I want to start cleaning it , start with the wheels and put some new tires , lubricating hubs , then polishing breaks , cranckset and in the end see what to do with the frame...touch paint...and maybe some new decals - i beleive at least 1 is missing. I think i need a new 5sp cassete too.. few teeths are break in half and is a Shimano...so i think is not original also. What do you think. Any imput will be greatly appreciated .

Looks kinda like a PA-10... though the down-tube decal is different.https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Broc...0Page%2015.jpg

Looks like my PA-10E. Are your wheels for tubular tires? That would be original but mine came to me with 27” clincher tires. The paint looks pretty good so polish, touch up and wax. Take your time and read up on French threads, Kool Stops, Cottered cranks…

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c300dcb11.jpeg

Thank you both, seems a PA 10 , 1975 , according to the stamp on wheelhubs and indeed wheels are for tubular . I will see how the frame looks after cleaning . Last ride on it i was having like 15 years ago, so need a full service. I would like to keep it as original is possible and replace only what is needed. I leave in Europe , so might be different version vs US ...idk.

+1. Components and frame feature are indicative of a PA10 variant, The subject logo style was introduced for the 1975 model year while the presence of a serial number plate indicates it's no newer than the 1977 model year.

Another interesting detail which not fit is that the pump was on seat tube . I have found the clamp and i see the mark on the frame too. And another question please : lugs seems to be Nervex or Bocama? Thank you!

The lugs are interesting, and the geometry (at least in the catalog photo and on Classtime's bike) looks correctly quite "upright" as would be a distinct feature of Peugeot's Thevenet-era racing models.

Some discussion of the PA-10 lugs (& more) in this thread...

I have remove all the pieces left from the frame with the exception of crankset. Ofcourse i damaged the cotered pins and need to find a solution to replace and also to try to remove. I need to see which diameter have them to be replaced. Any link to read about how to remove my Stronglight crank or is there anything to loose after i will remove the pins? Thank you!

Nothing to lose when the crank arms are removed....If you further open up the bottom bracket (where the axle and bearings are) there are additional parts to watch out for. I believe french cotters are 9mm, typically with Peugeots you will have to hand file the wedge profile when fitting new pins. As an aside when I did this last month I used a blue Sharpie pen as a poor man's engineering blue and it worked really well for showing me where I had to file. It was a *lot* of filing to be honest, as my crankset needed the cotters "fully cut"; however mine was a Cyclo and not a Stronglight so your may not require as much filing.

Edit: Since I assume you are in europe look for ALGI brand - they seem to be available fairly easily there. These are the type Mike from Bikesmith uses in the US; I got my cotters from the local (really good) bike shop....these are well made fully machined cotters.

Yep, i live in Europe. Tomorrow i will go to a bike service to see if they can remove them with some C clamps or maybe some dedicated ones. After that need to find some products as degreesers, polish compunds for aluminium and chrome and start working. I was thinking also that maybe is a good oportunity to profesional repaint the frame and order new decals. Also need a new saddle - maybe i will find some Brooks vintage look. Thank you!

Heat from a torch is what is needed to remove the typically tightly-installed cotters on any old Peugeot, etc.

Even using a good press, the threaded stud usually bends if considerable heat isn't first applied!

Heated to the point of some smoke issuing from the cotter area, perhaps 350F, gets the job done with cotters out and ready for re-use!:)

You are right, i have used both method but not toghether. Heated + hammer = fail, press without heat = win method but bend pin:)
Now i need new ones , from my research need to be specific 40mm × 0.9, right? Thank you all . Now is time for cleaning parts . I am thinking to degrease every part then apply some rust remover then use some wool steel and some Autosol paste to give them a nicer finnish? Any imput will be greatly appreciated. First problem is that i could not find any solution to remove glue from tubular tire , so it need to be remove mechanical with a dremel, maybe . Any advice wich grit to use for sandpaper?

Cleaning process has started :thumb: :
First stage cleaning of wheels :
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...083606bae8.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...900f103b29.jpg

Mavic tubular rims , before and after cleaning old glue. Next stage is cleaning and polish hubs and rims . I really want to remove all spokes for individual cleaning - rim , hubs - but i am affraid something wrong will happen and . No reason to despoke if not change anything.

Next one is rear derraileur :
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...48847518b4.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3d056b073b.jpg

Degreaser , Autosol polish paste and steel wool do the job . Need to get some lube tu put it back and start with front derraileur which is more simple to clean. I need some rust remover too for some parts , citric acid do a pretty good job but need dedicated one too.
Will keep updated as a restore process, to help others and for some imputs too✌️

Still thinking which freewheel and tubular to buy to finnish the wheels.

Frame and fork will be last restore which need more attention and time.
Regards,

More parts cleaned and packed , ready for final stage : few surface rust to remove then machine polish and final clean stage with IPA .

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d62d6d6519.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1fdc48522b.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...583161d753.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...28f06476b8.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ff62010426.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0150cf49c2.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fc4a34979d.jpg

Problem found so far : headset berings balls need to be replace
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fd4f6573c8.jpg
Rest ones was cleaned and packed in good condition :


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...024c7d7662.jpg

I miss 2 Mafac break pads holder and 1 washer from Simplex friction levers. Hard to find or expensive :)

Anyone know which seat post i need to be period and corect equiped?
Thnaks!

For the Simplex washer: sometimes you can buy the really awful simplex models (all plastic or plastic with thin metal wrapping) cheaply and use the parts. I have done this before for washers and for the Delrin wings that go around the fixing bolts.

What part is the brake holder you are looking for? The mounting bolts or the pad holders?

Pad holders . For the Simplex i need 1st metal part that came after wingnut . I have found some in France , togheter with remaining 2 washers ...like a repair kit :) . Remember i live in Europe, and my " world " of huge parts available is limited 😇

Nice job on the cleaning.
I'm just reacting to photos not taken for the purpose, but: you might want to have someone who knows spindles look at that one (and the BB cups too). When they get a bearing ball track worn into them, then it's either really smooth and consistent all the way 'round (OK) or not. If not, then the BB will be hard to adjust, and turn roughly -- and eventually will have to be replaced.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5d2c41f442.jpg

Also, it's just me, but whenever I have something apart that hasn't been apart for awhile, I just replace all the bearing balls, no questions asked. They're cheap, and it doesn't cost much to keep a stock of G5 (high precision) balls in the requisite sizes.

I must say that you are doing a fantastic job on those parts and inspiring me to clean mine up. I can’t wait to see your “new” frame and fork. Most folks replace the whole set of bearings but I’ve done like you plan to.
Here are a couple pictures of the seatpost. I love how adjustable it is.

Too bad the title of this thread won’t encourage more people to see how nice of a job you’re doing.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d46c795b3.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...352d493d6.jpeg

Thank you for your imput Charles!
Bearing balls track is smooth , nothing worn...just normal wearing from a 47 years old byke . Some worns on that bb are visible in the photo, but they are not in contact with bb cups or any other parts who is spinning. Even before dismantle bb was spinning like butter. I have signs on the wheel cones...but not any identation who might affect spinnings. I bet any vintage NOS parts can be worst than i have. . About berring balls you might be right, i might replace them all if i find good quality ones and right measures. Long time before assembly.

Right, maybe some mods can change title in something like " PA10L , restoring process ...or any concludent one. Thanks for photo, you know wich brand? Simplex? Thank you!