I always pre-glue the spare. Just let the glue cure overnight and then fold the spare. It's not messy at all since the glue is dry and won't really adhere to itself unless some heat is generated, i.e. the heat from friction caused by riding.

I've never put glue on base tape. I've watched my LBS mech, and he doesn't doesn't either. Moreover, I have read all around the net and consulted the manual I've used for decades and found people who skip this step.

But, I don't do screaming descents down mountain switch-backs in late July either. If I did, I think I'd be doing the most involved and intricate method — you know the type. It takes two days, and that is not taking stretching into account — that is to say (as DiabloScott puts it) — the "extreme 6-corner criterium racer in July" method.

So my advice to any novices would be: your safety margin factor my vary. You have to be the responsible judge or just stick to clinchers. Even some pro-mechanics have sent off their riders who later rolled their tubular tires. The older I get, the longer it takes to recover from a fall, so I'm not being cavalier.

I am just about to glue some Vittorio Stradas on a set of Mavic GL 330's. I had to wire-brush off crystallized glue that had cured on like gangbusters for over 25 years. So i am down to bare anodized alloy. I'll but on a base-coat from a can of PanaRacer cement and let it dry for an hour. I'll leave a 15 mm strip either side of the valve so I can break the bond if I flat out or renew the tub. (I carry a spare under the saddle) Before I mount the tubulars that have been streaching on spare wheels for a week, I'll put a thinner, second coat on the rims and wait for it to get just tacky enough so it pulls up strings on the end of my finger. Then I'll mount the Stradas and let them cure for 24 hours.

I think that this is the "good-enough" method for what I do on the road. And it has worked fine for years. And I think it is good enough even though I am (to use repechage's expression) even more allergic to falling than I used to be. (My 'allergy' really began decades ago when I was track road-racing motorcycles.)

I like this old thread even though the subject has been thrashed about in so many places. It's cool when BF members weigh in and put out their own opinions about this important topic of safety and caution.

I got my first set of sew-ups to do criteriums with a long time ago. I was willing to go less robust and more hassle for the light weight advantage and great cornering... but I really do enjoy the art of the perfect glue-job.

So now that I don't do criteriums anymore, what do I do with my wheels? Well, I buy one new tubular tire every year, ride my sew-ups on my vintage bike until I get a flat, then switch back to my clinchers until next year. New one came in the mail yesterday... doing the install this weekend.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...1007152129.jpg

Hmm, picture isn't working for me...

Now?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...1007152129.jpg

Much better! :thumb:

Now that is a REALLY nice tire! I think the closest tubular I've ever had to them was a set of Clement Condors I inherited on an old wheel set. I just researched prices of the CorespunK, and I can see why you buy only one a year. I'll soon have three bikes on tubulars — today only two. I think I'll being staying with the mass-produced versions, but if had the dosh ....

BTW, would it not be worth your time unstitching and repairing a flat on a tub that costs between $70-$90? That's 8,000 to 11,000 Yen for me!

Oh of course... and I do... I just suck at it. See?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...d%252520Up.jpg

I try to always re-sew it using the original holes.

My friend Mr. Frankenstein says that looks just fine!:D

Anybody ever use these ?
New Continental Giro Road Track Train Tubular Tire 22mm Sew Up Tyre 700c 27' 28" | eBay

5.83 each at REI's yard sale today. 700x21
"standard" Practice is 700x22.5 (note the play on words)
Classic look, 270 TPI. All the tags were in Japanese.
Perfect for an 80's build.

http://www.tracksupermarket.com/imag...atubular_l.jpg

I hope you bought a bunch at that price!

Robbie , how can I get some of these ?

I'd say, 'as long as it works!':thumb:

I'd check REI outlet, or find REI's near you. Here, they have a yard sale once a year, and they were in the bin. They only had 2.

Great find! I haven't seen any of these in Sendai, but I think I'll ask my LBS about them

BTW, what do you guys use to glue the base tape back on after a patch? My tape always puckers up and is unsat. All the hints I see call for "latex glue" which I've never seen in an appropriate size package.
Show me an actual product.

I have glued the tape on with this : http://www.amazon.com/00107-3-Ounce-...tact+cementAnd I use this to glue the tire back on :3M 08031 Fast Tack Trim Adhesive Tube 5 Oz | eBay

I use contact cement too, D-Scott. Never understood what "Latex glue" might be.
But Pliobond is rubber-based and would probably work well too.
http://www.amazon.com/Pliobond-P141-.../dp/B00176HL9Y

1000 miles on a Servizio Corsa tubular
 

After about 1000 miles, my rear tubular tire developed two significant bubbles.
Just out of the blue.

The bubbles caused the outer skin to tear away from the inner casing.
The tread was worn smooth, so the service life of the tire was almost gone.

The good part is that it got me home safely.
Good, because I was really tearing down that last hill, unaware of the damage.

Check your tires regularly.

For the few tires I've patched I've used the same stuff for holding the tire on the rim. My base tape always puckers too, but I don't think it's the glue. I think it's my sewing technique.

One thing I found out the hard way is you can't rob the Ms. sewing box for the thread . I use the new type braided fishing line (only because I have it) that stuff is super strong . Jim I agree , why use two different types of glue ?

you win! :lol:

the sorriest looking set of tires, that hold air, i've ever seen on a bike. had to laugh...

Really? In my house only I have a sewing box. Princess Lenton pays to have her buttons sewed back on :)

Having just pumped the tire to 110 psi, I think it was my fault.
It couldn't take the extreme pressure.
Could have gotten another 500 miles out of it. ;)

I think the idea is that, ideally, the glue will be strong enough to hold the base tape on, but not so strong that you can't peel back the tape for a repair. Rim cement might fail in this latter regard.

The only latex I know of is just plain old latex, which might be useful for coating sidewalls, but I could never imagine it bonding tape to tire. I have used contact cement like the others.

One time I tried to re-glue an entire base tape, but didn't have the sense to do it on the rim. I think the tire ended up about an inch shorter than it needed to be. Of course I found that out on the road when I flatted and went to use it for a spare. Oops. Wound up just tearing the tape to get the tire mounted.

I knew there was a reason I was told to use contact cement on the tape . Thanks due route .

I've not had to repair all that many - I don't recollect using anything other than rim cement, tho I'm sure there's better choices.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...ps7lnyipph.jpg

Between 2500 and 3000 flat-free miles on this gatorskin, which I attribute to tire savers, but Continental may have a different opinion.

Sew-ups are on for Saturday's charity ride.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...1015152228.jpg