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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

paulb_in_bkln 05-20-18 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 20349973)
Got to get to work fixing the steering column support bushing (headset?) on my British 5 speed roadster. It means squeezing under the dash and reaching up for the firewall. Sorry, @gster made me do it!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...966b6ae840.jpg

They are merciless making fun of these on Detectorists.

RobHalligan 05-20-18 02:15 PM


Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti (Post 20304117)
Starting bid $50 matching ladies starts bid $50 in Maryland. They look mid 70's

https://www.invaluable.com/auction-l...7-c-c9f486bbad

https://image.invaluable.com/housePh...L142025831.jpg

Thank you much for posting that. I got both of those. $150 total including auction fees. I'll pick them up next week. The auctioneer said he wouldn't mind holding them for 10 days. Now, I have to thin my herd.

oldveloman 05-20-18 02:52 PM

Opened the chaincase of the '53 Raleigh Sports today and found a black enamelled chainwheel in there.
Was that common practice with closed chaincases in those days ?

Peter
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...648edb99fc.jpg

gster 05-20-18 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20350136)
I too miss all the furrin oldies, the Simcas, the Renaults, Sprites, Spitfires and TR4s, Citroens, Fiats, and even the rattle of the original Beetle's flat four.

Cars from my past include
Karmann Ghia
Renault Caravelle
Fiat 850
64 Corvair
65 Corvair
65 Corvair (still have)
But the 3 speeds never leave you stranded at the
side of the road.....

Palden 05-20-18 05:06 PM

I am new to the forum and a just got into riding after 40 years. My first bicycle in the 1960s was a Raleigh 3 speed so it is interesting to find this thread. That bell on your bar was a flashback for me. I think I had one of those, or similar. Is it and the headlight from that time period?

BigChief 05-20-18 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by RobHalligan (Post 20350514)
Thank you much for posting that. I got both of those. $150 total including auction fees. I'll pick them up next week. The auctioneer said he wouldn't mind holding them for 10 days. Now, I have to thin my herd.

Nice! And a Brooks B66 too. That's worth half the price alone. Good score.

BigChief 05-20-18 06:35 PM


Originally Posted by Palden (Post 20350781)
I am new to the forum and a just got into riding after 40 years. My first bicycle in the 1960s was a Raleigh 3 speed so it is interesting to find this thread. That bell on your bar was a flashback for me. I think I had one of those, or similar. Is it and the headlight from that time period?

That's a Superbe. The bullet headlamp, front dyno hub and rear carrier were standard on that model. Don't know about the bell, but they were a traditional accessory for the old English roadsters.

SirMike1983 05-20-18 06:40 PM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20349946)
Not familiar with these. In Sheldon's article he seems to be saying that when both sides are pulled tight it's functioning like an AW hub. So the benefit of a lower first gear would happen by using a bigger cog. ??? Have I understood this correctly?

No - the Bottom gear on the S5 is lower than the AW's low. The Top on the S5 is higher than the AW's High gear. The trade off of having more gears though is the less straightforward control system the S5 uses compared to the AW. But it's not hard to become proficient shifting the S5. The S5 is much more expensive to buy and the parts are harder to find and more expensive than the AW. They each have their advantages and disadvantages.

BigChief 05-20-18 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 20350932)
No - the Bottom gear on the S5 is lower than the AW's low. The Top on the S5 is higher than the AW's High gear. The trade off of having more gears though is the less straightforward control system the S5 uses compared to the AW. But it's not hard to become proficient shifting the S5. The S5 is much more expensive to buy and the parts are harder to find and more expensive than the AW. They each have their advantages and disadvantages.

That's right. Here's how they compare:
AW -25% 0 +33%
S5 -33.3% -21% 0 +26.6% +50%

Arrowana 05-20-18 11:08 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that I have to retire my LTD-3. There are a few cracks in the paint around the lugs, and they seem to be growing.

The good news is I found a replacement. A 1964 Mercury Courier. Never heard of Mercury before, but it looks like it was made by Raleigh. I'll be swapping some parts over, wheels, tires, saddle and maybe more. The kidapult will be removed, but is in surprisingly good shape. I'm tempted to seek out a more exciting chainguard. The heron chainring from the LTD-3 will likely be swapped over as well.

ddeand 05-20-18 11:28 PM

Moving on to the next problem . . . .

After finishing my first Sports project, I ran across a free womenís Sport that Iím going to rebuild for my daughter. It is in very nice (but dirty) condition, and it should clean up nicely. It looks like this example:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3af9b2e7c.jpeg


But of course, Iíve run into a problem. The rear hub shifting mechanism seems to be stuck. If I recall correctly with my other AW hub, when I pulled on the indicator chain, the chain would move a few millimeter thereby allowing the gear change to occur. On this AW hub, when I pull the indicator chain, it wonít budge. I took the hub mostly apart and sprayed WD-40 all around to clean things up (it was pretty gummed up), but the shifting mechanism is rock solid stuck. Any suggestions?

Again, thanks for all the help!

BigChief 05-21-18 12:12 AM


Originally Posted by Arrowana (Post 20351302)
I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that I have to retire my LTD-3. There are a few cracks in the paint around the lugs, and they seem to be growing.

The good news is I found a replacement. A 1964 Mercury Courier. Never heard of Mercury before, but it looks like it was made by Raleigh. I'll be swapping some parts over, wheels, tires, saddle and maybe more. The kidapult will be removed, but is in surprisingly good shape. I'm tempted to seek out a more exciting chainguard. The heron chainring from the LTD-3 will likely be swapped over as well.

Just when you think you've seen every Raleigh rebadge, along comes another one. I'd keep that chainguard. The paint might come up nicely with a compounding and wax. The rims don't look too bad. Check page 655 @johnnyspaghetti posted a novel method of cleaning rims that I'm planning on trying sometime.

gster 05-21-18 04:54 AM

String Test
Tried the ol' string test on the Robin Hood and it passed...
I then loosened the front wheel bearing cone and it seems to have improved
but I'm not 100% on this one.
Took the hub apart and re assembled, still doesn't shift properly.
I'll try a different trigger today and see if that helps.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...117ec01767.jpg

BigChief 05-21-18 05:54 AM

Hmmmm. Straight frame, straight fork and newly serviced headset. You don't suppose it's that front tire? Hard to imagine that could cause it, but I never liked those Schwinn type ribbed treads.

gster 05-21-18 06:03 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20351487)
Hmmmm. Straight frame, straight fork and newly serviced headset. You don't suppose it's that front tire? Hard to imagine that could cause it, but I never liked those Schwinn type ribbed treads.

Could be....
I'll try to swap out the whole wheel with one I know is good and see how it responds..
Will a 26 x 1 3/8 tire fit on a 26 x 1 1/4 rim?

gster 05-21-18 06:23 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20351336)
Just when you think you've seen every Raleigh rebadge, along comes another one. I'd keep that chainguard. The paint might come up nicely with a compounding and wax. The rims don't look too bad. Check page 655 @johnnyspaghetti posted a novel method of cleaning rims that I'm planning on trying sometime.

I recently saw (no camera) a Beaver branded Raleigh.
Beaver was a chain of hardware stores here in Canada that went out of business 20+ years ago.
It had a headbadge like this...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4a3cf5353a.png

JohnDThompson 05-21-18 07:45 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20351496)
Could be....
I'll try to swap out the whole wheel with one I know is good and see how it responds..
Will a 26 x 1 3/8 tire fit on a 26 x 1 1/4 rim?

26" tire sizes are a hot mess, with at least half a dozen mutually incompatible bead seat diameters. So my guess is "probably not."

To find compatible rim/tire combinations, ignore the nominal "26" x [whatever]" size and look for the standardized ETRTO size designations, which show the bead seat diameters. E.g. a nominal 26" x 1-3/8 tire will have a ETRTO size of 590-35, where the first number represents the bead seat diameter and the second number the width. The bead seat diameter is the important number, and must match that of the rim you intend to mount it on. You have much more leeway in the width, with frame clearance being the ultimate limit on how wide you can go.

Ballenxj 05-21-18 07:57 AM


Originally Posted by Arrowana (Post 20351302)
The kidapult will be removed,

Kidapult? Hahaha! Thanks for my morning laugh. :) Unfortunately in a crash that's what it would most likely be. :(

gster 05-21-18 08:03 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20351496)
Could be....
I'll try to swap out the whole wheel with one I know is good and see how it responds..
Will a 26 x 1 3/8 tire fit on a 26 x 1 1/4 rim?

Mysteries Solved.
I spent an hour or so determined to fix the 69 Robin Hood..
The wandering front end was the fault of a slightly bent stem, barely noticeable.
Replaced and fixed.
Shifting problem was corrected by replacing the indicator chain with a slightly shorter one.
Now to take it out for a nice ride.
It has a 19T cog and now that it's working properly I have a new chain to install.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fcc6568950.jpg

Ballenxj 05-21-18 08:52 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20350595)
Cars from my past include
Karmann Ghia
Renault Caravelle
Fiat 850
64 Corvair
65 Corvair
65 Corvair (still have)
But the 3 speeds never leave you stranded at the
side of the road.....

PM sent about the Caravelle and 850. :beer:

paulb_in_bkln 05-21-18 01:46 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20351521)

I wonder how many bikes you had to order to get one branded like that.

paulb_in_bkln 05-21-18 01:51 PM


Originally Posted by ddeand (Post 20351314)
But of course, Iíve run into a problem. The rear hub shifting mechanism seems to be stuck. If I recall correctly with my other AW hub, when I pulled on the indicator chain, the chain would move a few millimeter thereby allowing the gear change to occur. On this AW hub, when I pull the indicator chain, it wonít budge.

Ooh, ooh I might know an answer. I had a frozen one and sprayed through the axle with Blaster penetrating oil from Home Depot. It freed up almost immediately.

Ballenxj 05-21-18 02:22 PM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20352425)
Ooh, ooh I might know an answer. I had a frozen one and sprayed through the axle with Blaster penetrating oil from Home Depot. It freed up almost immediately.

NICE! And good suggestion for freeing one up. :thumb:

Palden 05-21-18 06:25 PM

Thanks for the reply. All I can remember is that my bike was black, had 3 gears, fenders, and I think it had a light like yours, rear coaster brake, and front rim brake. I guess the bell was an add on. Hope I can find a photo among the souvenirs some day.

ddeand 05-21-18 08:39 PM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20352425)
Ooh, ooh I might know an answer. I had a frozen one and sprayed through the axle with Blaster penetrating oil from Home Depot. It freed up almost immediately.

Thanks for the advice! I sprayed PB Blaster in the hub and let it sit for most of the day - nothing. It was still stuck. So I disassembled the hub again and spent some time figuring out what should move and what shouldn't. There were a couple things that looked like they should slide, so I ever so gently pried them loose. They weren't corroded, but they were firmly stuck with gunk. The parts I freed up were the sliding clutch and the thrust ring (I have no idea). After the axle and the sliding parts were cleaned and oiled, I reassembled the hub, and damned if it doesn't work! I'm pretty sure that if I kept on with the PB Blaster, it would have loosened up, but it really needed to be cleaned, too. Now all I need to do is find where I placed a few of the parts - of course, I set them aside in a a safe memorable place somewhere.

Thanks again for the help.

Arrowana 05-21-18 09:56 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20351336)
Just when you think you've seen every Raleigh rebadge, along comes another one. I'd keep that chainguard. The paint might come up nicely with a compounding and wax. The rims don't look too bad. Check page 655 @johnnyspaghetti posted a novel method of cleaning rims that I'm planning on trying sometime.

That is an awesome idea for cleaning the rims. These are clean enough that they won't need much work to look new. My Raleigh has a nice set of alloy 650b rims laced to a modern dynamo hub and an AW from '75. The Mercury will get those, and the stock wheels will be used to get some other 3-speed rolling again.

Today I removed the kidapult, and wiped away a bit of the dust. It looks like there is some pinstriping on the frame that matches the chainguard, so I think I'll have to keep it on there. Might be tempted to line the lugs with the same color as the pinstriping if I want it to look extra fancy.

gster 05-22-18 03:56 AM


Originally Posted by Arrowana (Post 20353206)
That is an awesome idea for cleaning the rims. These are clean enough that they won't need much work to look new. My Raleigh has a nice set of alloy 650b rims laced to a modern dynamo hub and an AW from '75. The Mercury will get those, and the stock wheels will be used to get some other 3-speed rolling again.

Today I removed the kidapult, and wiped away a bit of the dust. It looks like there is some pinstriping on the frame that matches the chainguard, so I think I'll have to keep it on there. Might be tempted to line the lugs with the same color as the pinstriping if I want it to look extra fancy.

The quality of the paint and chrome on these old British bikes is quite amazing and will usually clean up nicely.

paulb_in_bkln 05-22-18 04:29 AM


Originally Posted by ddeand (Post 20353113)
I reassembled the hub, and damned if it doesn't work! I'm pretty sure that if I kept on with the PB Blaster, it would have loosened up, but it really needed to be cleaned, too. Now all I need to do is find where I placed a few of the parts - of course, I set them aside in a a safe memorable place somewhere.

Thanks again for the help.

Good for another fifty years.

paulb_in_bkln 05-22-18 04:36 AM


Originally Posted by Arrowana (Post 20351302)
I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that I have to retire my LTD-3. There are a few cracks in the paint around the lugs, and they seem to be growing.

The good news is I found a replacement. A 1964 Mercury Courier. Never heard of Mercury before, but it looks like it was made by Raleigh. I'll be swapping some parts over, wheels, tires, saddle and maybe more. The kidapult will be removed, but is in surprisingly good shape. I'm tempted to seek out a more exciting chainguard. The heron chainring from the LTD-3 will likely be swapped over as well.

That looks to be a jewel underneath a bit of haze from exposure. I marvel at the finds shown on this thread and the good condition of the rims. Most of the older bikes I see available hereabouts (NYC), the wheels are pretty much write-offs.

BigChief 05-22-18 06:40 AM


Originally Posted by Arrowana (Post 20353206)
That is an awesome idea for cleaning the rims. These are clean enough that they won't need much work to look new. My Raleigh has a nice set of alloy 650b rims laced to a modern dynamo hub and an AW from '75. The Mercury will get those, and the stock wheels will be used to get some other 3-speed rolling again.

Today I removed the kidapult, and wiped away a bit of the dust. It looks like there is some pinstriping on the frame that matches the chainguard, so I think I'll have to keep it on there. Might be tempted to line the lugs with the same color as the pinstriping if I want it to look extra fancy.

Too bad about the frame joints failing on your 70s Sports. I've never seen that happen, but things did start going sour at the Nottingham factory in the 70s. I think you're going to have a more interesting bike with this older one anyway. I love the look of old paint and graphics on roadsters. Any of the chrome bits you feel are too far gone can be replaced and it looks like the frameset and fenders would look very good after a good cleaning, polish and waxing. The dynohub and lights would really top it off nicely. Keep us posted. Always fun to see project bikes come along.


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