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Love mine, I've done over 60,000 miles on her....my wife and I had a pair (Gents & Ladies) from back in the early 70's
just did a few miles yesterday Julius in Ohio |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21398372)
That bike looks like it really wants to go somewhere...
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DL prefered
Originally Posted by thorstein
(Post 21398503)
Oh, it does! I don't think I've ever wished I'd taken a different bike when I'm out on it. Although I have wished I'd taken it instead of the bike I was on.
Would the chain need to be repaced? Are the pedals on these 9/16 or something else? Can I improve the brakes by replacing with Kool Stop Continental Salmon, without doing any extensive modification? Where can I buy them? Sorry for all the questions...there is no one in my area that knows anything about these old bikes. thanks, ever so much, Julius in N.W. Ohio |
Originally Posted by julius rensch
(Post 21398552)
I only have the 1972 Tourist these days (my Superbe was stolen) and as I pushing 80 years, I find the gearing could be a bit lower, especially on windy days,...do you have any info on changing the rear chain wheel to a 20 or 21 tooth? What would I order and from whom?
Would the chain need to be repaced? Are the pedals on these 9/16 or something else? Can I improve the brakes by replacing with Kool Stop Continental Salmon, without doing any extensive modification? Where can I buy them? Sorry for all the questions...there is no one in my area that knows anything about these old bikes. thanks, ever so much, Julius in N.W. Ohio I wouldn't pay more that $15.00 for one and most bike shops should have a selection. Most likely you would need to replace the chain as well. |
Thanx gster
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21398610)
Swapping out the rear cog is fairly easy and recommended by me (60) I like 20 and 21T cogs.
I wouldn't pay more that $15.00 for one and most bike shops should have a selection. Most likely you would need to replace the chain as well. Julius in N. W. Ohio |
Originally Posted by julius rensch
(Post 21398552)
I find the gearing could be a bit lower, especially on windy days,...do you have any info on changing the rear chain wheel to a 20 or 21 tooth?
Originally Posted by julius rensch
(Post 21398552)
Can I improve the brakes by replacing with Kool Stop Continental Salmon, without doing any extensive modification? Where can I buy them?
thanks, ever so much, Julius in N.W. Ohio Rod brake pad/shoe remove/install Kool Stop makes replacement shoes, but I had to order through Amazon because my favorite local bike shop (LBS) wasn't able to order them. |
Originally Posted by julius rensch
(Post 21398636)
Thanx gester....helpful info indeed..
Julius in N. W. Ohio It's held on with a snap ring that you pry off and re install. It's also a good opportunity to give the hub a good cleaning. You may prefer a 22T cog as a Tourist is quite heavy. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21398851)
There's a youtube video that shows how to remove the cog.
It's held on with a snap ring that you pry off and re install. It's also a good opportunity to give the hub a good cleaning. You may prefer a 22T cog as a Tourist is quite heavy. What I used was one of these 1/8" x 22 tooth dished chromed cogs and a nice new 1/8" chain. As I recall, the 112 link chain I bought fit perfectly with the 46Tx22T setup without having to remove any links.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sturmey-Arc...0AAOSwnoldUgf0 |
Originally Posted by avecReynolds531
(Post 21398143)
I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.
There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return to the road for this lovely old bike. |
Originally Posted by avecReynolds531
(Post 21398143)
I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.
There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...93acfc041b.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7d2905e3c.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b59cbb42bf.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...068e08a245.jpg to the road for this lovely old bike. Some of those individual parts are very hard to find. Looks like a 22' frame, also good. You've got a nice project ahead of you..... please post photos as you do the work. A great deal of advice and help is available here. |
Originally Posted by thorstein
(Post 21395305)
Here is a picture showing how the brake shoe holder is leading the stirrup:
If the brake shoe is put on the other side, it isn't pushed up into the rim, so it doesn't grab as much. |
Thanks to BigChief and gster for encouragement and the evaluation of the Elswick.
I was kindly sent this scan of the 1960 catalogue which shows the spec of the Light Roadster. From what I can see, the bike is missing the rear reflector from the mudguard/ fender, the pump/ inflator and the toolbag from the saddle. Maybe the Miller bottle dynamo and lights were fitted later or as extras. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4e2b06b15.jpg |
Originally Posted by avecReynolds531
(Post 21399819)
Thanks to BigChief and gster for encouragement and the evaluation of the Elswick.
I was kindly sent this scan of the 1960 catalogue which shows the spec of the Light Roadster. From what I can see, the bike is missing the rear reflector from the mudguard/ fender, the pump/ inflator and the toolbag from the saddle. Maybe the Miller bottle dynamo and lights were fitted later or as extras. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4e2b06b15.jpg |
Seriously....?
Posted on Kijiji in Toronto A Triumph bicycle frame @ $250.00 https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5362843802.jpg |
Originally Posted by avecReynolds531
(Post 21399819)
Thanks to BigChief and gster for encouragement and the evaluation of the Elswick.
I was kindly sent this scan of the 1960 catalogue which shows the spec of the Light Roadster. From what I can see, the bike is missing the rear reflector from the mudguard/ fender, the pump/ inflator and the toolbag from the saddle. Maybe the Miller bottle dynamo and lights were fitted later or as extras. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4e2b06b15.jpg |
so great to see the Catalouge
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21401090)
The reflector in the catalog picture appears to be similar to the Lucas rubber case reflectors used on Raleighs. For a 1960 bike, you would want one 2 inches across. That's including the case. They can be found on eBay. Most will have the Raleigh "RI" logo, but plain ones are not too hard to find. One of the biggest challenges one faces with rod brake bikes with rust issues are the Westwood rims. Hopefully yours are still sound enough to be usable. You can use a wire brush in a drill to clean out rust from the inside of the rims and give the insides a coat of paint to protect the exposed steel. The other chrome parts may come out nicely, but they won't be as rust resistant than they were originally. Wax does a good job of protecting cleaned up chrome.
So great to see the ELSWICK CATALOGUE..what was the city of manufacture? Julius in Ohio |
Originally Posted by julius rensch
(Post 21401193)
.................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .......................................................
So great to see the ELSWICK CATALOGUE..what was the city of manufacture? Julius in Ohio |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21401090)
The reflector in the catalog picture appears to be similar to the Lucas rubber case reflectors used on Raleighs. For a 1960 bike, you would want one 2 inches across. That's including the case. They can be found on eBay. Most will have the Raleigh "RI" logo, but plain ones are not too hard to find. One of the biggest challenges one faces with rod brake bikes with rust issues are the Westwood rims. Hopefully yours are still sound enough to be usable. You can use a wire brush in a drill to clean out rust from the inside of the rims and give the insides a coat of paint to protect the exposed steel. The other chrome parts may come out nicely, but they won't be as rust resistant than they were originally. Wax does a good job of protecting cleaned up chrome.
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Raleigh Superbe
here's another one for sale in Toronto.. They must have sold these by the truckload! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1b819459ad.png A fairly clean example but with an asking price of $300 I would expect to see an original front fender and pedals. A key is also a welcome bonus. |
Hi all,
A few months ago, while searching for parts and stuff on a local motorcycle swap meet, I found a nice little tool in a box of junk… We all know that BB-cups can be a real challenge to get out when they have been sitting in a frame for ages… There’ s some tools available - as mentioned in this thread before - but mostly only suitable for the right hand cup. The one I picked up ( for some pocket change ) can do both sides perfectly well… I do have to admit that I had to reshape it a bit to take standard Raleigh cups and also had to add a threaded bar to make it usuable for the right hand side (fixed) cup as well, but, anyway, I now could - finally - dismantle all those frames with rusted-solid BB-cups… Top picture: as bought. Below: reshaped to fit standard Raleigh cups https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9de44a205.jpg Below: using the tool on left hand side cup https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a08c418ca4.jpg Below: using only the inner bush on the right hand side cup ( fixed cup - left hand thread ) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fcbf155f27.jpg I also had to use my hot air gun, as all these cups had been sitting there for decades... Peter |
Peter, would you give more detail on the modification you made to the tool; and could a similar tool be built from hardware available now?
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I started work on the '56 Sports step-through I am bringing up to snuff for my fiance. I have a donor '72 Sports, and I'm using the AW-equipped wheel from it for this '56 until next winter. The bike came with an SW three-speed from early in SW production - October 1956. The hub shifts poorly (I suspect that is why the cycle is in such nice shape) and after reading Sheldon's pieces on that SW's design faults I've decided not to bother with it for this application. The '72 AW looked pretty good inside after I cracked it open despite an obviously rough and neglected life for the rest of the donor bike. Waiting in the wings is an AW dated July 1956. If she likes the bike - and I think she will - I plan to build an alloy wheelset to lighten things up. I'll use the '56 hub for that to keep things period correct and keep the '72 as spare. Anyway, I always enjoy opening up these hubs, cleaning them, and packing in new bearings and grease. Tick, tick, tick...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jv...w2054-h1540-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rA...w1156-h1540-no |
A Reasonable price
Raleigh Glider in Hamilton offered at $50.00.. That's some saddle... https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...388431ef38.jpg |
Big Chief was ahead of the curve...
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...30ae6034d8.jpg |
Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 21402020)
Peter, would you give more detail on the modification you made to the tool; and could a similar tool be built from hardware available now?
so I bored a hole and cut M8 thread in it. Now it can be used on both sides. Here' s a quick drawing: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...55ae28204b.jpg Enjoy, Peter |
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