You have some super hard to find genuine Raleigh parts there. The 08GC bottom bracket spindle, complete handlebar/brake lever assembly, brake parts, lamp bracket and fork. Lack of original manufacturer parts is the main problem DL-1 owners face.

Forks are a little tweaked but can be saved. Bars are better than mine. I have no immediate plans for my 22" or for this one, I just did not want either of them going to the dump and that looked like it would be a certainty so they're better off here even if I only look at them.

Years ago I had a rough, fairly complete 24" but had no extra space and didn't really mind letting it go. Gave it to a buddy who owned a shop with a quaint bent so a tall Tourist fit right in.

The big issue with these is finding parts. Completing this bike isn't practical. There's just not enough of them around and nobody ever seems to be parting one out. Too bad really, they are fun bikes and with the 22" you don't even have to be 6' tall to ride them. Knowing what I do now, I will always want one in the stable. I tend to binge ride different bikes and the big roadster has a feel of it's own that makes for a nice change.

Hercules for sale in northeast Ohio, $35.

Hmm...I'm sure the scarcity of this bikes has nothing to do with a web forum thread about three speeds that's gotten to about 726 pages in the course of eight years, a thread where people regularly praise the pre-1960 bikes as The Bee's Knees and disparage the post-1960 bikes as machines likely to disintegrate going down a hill. Nope, nothing to do with that! ;);)

Anyways, to be more serious, the rarity probably revolves around two factors: scarcity and desirability. While pre-1960's Raleighs et al were not rare on this side of the pond back in the day, they weren't common, either. Adult biking wasn't really a thing from 1945 to 1960 in the US and probably Canada. It wasn't until the 60's where adult biking became a "thing" again, and the numbers of adult bikes increased here. It's not just British bikes: you can definitely find a fair share of 60's era Schwinn Varsities, Collegiates, and Continentals if you look, but you'd be hard pressed to casually find the 50's adult Schwinn frames.

Add to that the desirability of these pre-1960 bikes, as they have been talked up as being better than what came after, so people seek out those bikes instead of the easier to find newer versions. And they're probably more likely to hold on to these bikes vs the newer ones.

It's not just pre-1960 British roadsters. Look at 1980's touring bikes. They were common back in the day, but not in the numbers of sport-touring bikes. They were forgotten about for awhile, then people realized how nice these bikes are, talked them up, and the prices went up accordingly. On Portland's Craigslist it's rare to find one of these bikes for less than $400, regardless of condition. Of course, you can find a 1980's mountain bike that works just as well as an 80's tourer for the most part for far less. And the old MTBs use 26 inch wheels, so you can get wider tires too. But people aren't hyping up the 80's MTB to the same level of the 80's touring bike...yet. ;)

love to have one of those 23s.

I've mentioned before that I like the idea of the Tourist more than I like the bike itself. Don't much care for the rod brakes and don't have many miles on one of the bikes but I still think they are really cool things. Picked up the carcass for the brake parts for my 22", if I ever do anything with them. We shall see.

The Nottingham made Raleigh roadsters of the 70s and 80s were very similar to the traditional products they had been making for decades and I'm glad they gave us all those years of these wonderful, but outdated even then, bikes. But personally, I do place a much greater value on all English roadsters from before the great consolidations of the 1960s. I think these designs reached a peak of quality and aesthetics in the early post war years. By the 60s, the economy was changing, demand for their products was lessening, major consolidations took place, more and more cost cutting measures, dubious design changes were made and overall quality became less consistent. Still, one of my favorite bikes is my 1970 DL-1. It's a great bike, but it had a few bugs and cheap parts that you would have never found on a 50s Raleigh.

These aren't really over priced; the seller needs the money for new eyeglasses. Different brands and models, U-brakes, pricing; lots wrong about this ad but it looks like a very nice, and nicely appointed, 23" men's Sports. I also posted this in the Wacky thread.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...705935413.htmlbikes - $750 (Petersburg)


https://images.craigslist.org/01010_...Zj_600x450.jpg


bicycle type: cruiser
brake type: u-brakes
condition: excellent
frame size: 26
handlebar type: cruiser
suspension: none (rigid)
wheel size: 26 in

Selling as a pair:
2 vintage nice clean complete bicycles 1971
1 26 inch men's sports ( The Raleigh) made in England,3 spd, Brooks seat, luggage rack ,pump, fenders . Very clean . does need tires. Dry rot from setting in storage.
Ladies Schwinn Suburban 3 spd also very clean and needs tires.

Selling as a matching pair.

Received a set of Sturmey Archer cable pulleys today.

They have some... patina but roll well. Going to give them a good clean and polish and probably sell the leftovers on eBay again.
http://i.imgur.com/CfKf2XTh.jpg

Does anyone know if these can be disassembled safely?

I examined 2 spare pulleys and the screws seem to be captive screws. I suppose you could force them out, but then you would need to devise a way to keep the screw from backing out upon reassembly. Locktite perhaps?

25 bikes, $25 each
 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3b0486b730.jpg

Easton, MD https://easternshore.craigslist.org/...706075572.html

The Philips twins look like a couple of nice bikes -- probably made during the TI era, my wag. A couple of Schwinns, look like Breeze. "They Call Me the Breeze." JJCale, one of the best tunes ever.
Those 3-speed Schwinns don't get a lot of love, but they're not bad bikes for what they are. If you can tolerate having an Ashtabula crank in the inventory. We had one for a while but I refurbed it (though it didn't need much) and gave it to our neighbor.

I called the seller this afternoon and offered to buy the men's Phillips, but he really wants to sell them as a package. His price was not so nice on a one by one basis; but this area is a bad market for selling old bikes, so I asked him to call me if things do not work out.

Im thinking about getting new bars for my Raleigh, I feel as thought the current North Roads are a bit to narrow for me. I have some NITTO Albatross bars on my Specialized Streetstomper, I love the feel of those bars but feel those will be to wide for a Raleigh 3 speed. My question is are the NITTO North Roads the same size and width as the current North Roads that come on a Raleigh 3 speed?

Does anyone have any experience with these bars? Thanx for the help!

NITTO B302AA

NITTO B347AA

NITTO B483AA

The bolt that acts as the axle for the pulley has a length of thread that bottoms out and tightens before the shoulder of bolt head presses on the pulley. That way it can be sufficiently tightened without jamming the pulley. No glue needed.

You will need to change the stem to fit the 25.4mm bars. That wouldn't be a problem. Any 22.2mm stem will fit the fork tube. There's plenty of 22.2mm stems with 25.4 bar clamps to choose from. The cables might be too short after you change the position of the handlebar, so custom length cables may be necessary. Also, I have never tried to fit Raleigh 15/16" brake levers on 1" bars. That might be a problem, don't know for sure. Might have to replace those too. Maybe somebody here would have experience with this.

Nittos are nice, but quite pricey. I've found an alternative that I use on all my North Roads type builds, and they are half the cost of Nittos.

They are called "Action Porteur": Action Porteurs from Harris Cyclery

https://i.imgur.com/RJPhIQF.png
Mounted right-side-up.
- OR -

https://i.imgur.com/NTZwSy3.png
Up-side-down

And they look great on a Scorcher!

https://i.imgur.com/kgAzWY8.png
My latest project: Pashley single-speed path racer - will eventually get a 3- or 5-speed drum-brake SA rear hub. Maybe this winter?

.

I've got the B302 version on my bike. I had the stock brake levers for a while but eventually replaced them with Weinmann brake levers like these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Wei...item361ba88ac0

You'll also have to change out the stem as mentioned- the Nitto 'Dirt Drop' stem works well as it allows the headlight to stay in place if you have one.

Nice! I didn't know about the Pashley. You've got some seriously beautiful bikes. How about a group photo sometime?

That's something I've thought about, but the logistics of getting them all to a suitable location at once have not yet been solved. Still, it IS Autumn, best time of year for that sort of thing. Maybe if I rent one of those pickup trucks from Home Depot?

I didn't feature the Pashley here yet because it is still a single speed. But I've been shamelessly showing it off elsewhere. :o And the Raysport is undergoing a 650b conversion at the moment. Busy, busy, busy....

.

Any suggestions for good tire replacements?
my old dunlap's are about to explode haha

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...60e0bc746f.jpg

Took the sports out to watch the swifts go in the chimney at chapman elemantary.

That is one great looking Sports. Those Dunlops are exactly the type that came on the bike originally. I wonder if they are original. I'm happy with Kenda black walls. I picked them at first because they lacked things like colored logos and reflective strips and so far, I've had no problems with them. Kenda makes this size in gum wall that is perfect for early 60s Sports that came with them originally. Other tires like Continental City Rides are supposed to be more puncture resistant and they may well be, hard to say.
Here's the Harris 590 page.
26 x 1 3/8 inch (590 mm) Bicycle Tires from Harris Cyclery

Concerning Dynohubs...Turns out that I'm much more pleased with the Dynohub with LED lights than I thought I'd be. Sometimes I start my day with an early ride while it's still dark. I don't ride on the paved roads in the daytime. At 4 AM I'm all alone out there. I use a headband light. With fresh AAA batteries it lights up the road well enough for the speeds I ride and the LED lights reflect animal eyes far beyond the field of visible light, but it's a tight beam and doesn't light up the road directly in front of me very well. The Dyno light fills this spot perfectly. It shines a nice wide beam up close. The two lights together work so well that I don't like my other bikes for night riding now. I'm totally sold on Dynohubs and I never thought I'd be. One more misconception out the window.

So I've found what this seller claims to be a 1950s model of a dunlet. I cant tell what parts of the paint are dull from age or rust.
the hub is a brand new one but most else looks original.
seller asking $150
but it's been on for awhile so I could try and get 100 maybe.
questions for the experts.
what size does this looks to be? I'm hoping 24"
what condition would you say it's in?
Is it worth $100?
edit:
forgot the pictures haha
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ac6518781d.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c48d771151.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e385917a38.jpg

@BigChief
thanks for the suggestion!
those look like a perfect replacement.
I do believe they are the originals. I got the bike from a store owner who used it as a window dressing after buying from a widow. Her husband brought it over from england and stored it in a barn.

@BigChief, I haven't used a Sturmey-Archer Dynohub, but I've been using dynamo hubs since 2013, and I love them. I know the drag is measurable, but it is imperceptible to me. When I hit 20 mph, I feel vibration, but I don't perceive it to be slowing me down.

That bikes been messed with big time. The clamp shifter braze on makes me think it was a late 50's derailleur model with a Benelux gear and possible 27" wheels, hence the larger frame. The frame's the only original part and that's maybe worth $40 imo.

My Cheap inexpensive option is the Wald 8095 touring bars for $15 on Amazon -1"(25.4mm) clamp, 2.5" rise, 23.75" wide