How To: Tubus Duo rack on Long Haul Trucker
 

You would assume probably the second most ubiquitous low rider rack, behind the Tara, would bolt straight onto probably the most ubiquitous touring bicycle, a Surly Long Haul Trucker. It seems not.

The curve in the fork and rack dont work together and mean you need to space the rack out more than the included Tubus hardware allows. A Shimano cam style skewer is also nowhere near fitting.

The following is how I mounted the rack and what hardware I used. Whether you are comfortable with the extra bolt length and spacers at the dropout is up to you to decide. Rack is sturdy and works fine for me. Wheel drops in and out as normal. Skewer clears in pictured position. Any questions please ask. Or just buy a Tara and dont bother with the faff.

Hardware needed, some of this is supplied with the rack. I just used what was easily available to me.

4x M5 x 30mm g12.9 socket cap bolts, used for the dropout eyelet and outer fork mount
2x M5 x 12mm g12.9 socket cap bolts, used for the inner fork mount
6x M5 round washer
2x M5 nyloc nuts, used on inside of dropout
2x threaded presta valve stem nuts, used as spacer on outer fork mount to prevent bolts meeting inside the fork. You can use a better fitting M5 washer if you have one.

2x bushings from worn out 7 speed road rear derailleur guide and tension pulleys.
These are 9mm wide. I used some from 7 speed rx100. These are optional, you can use the supplied Tubus spacers which are 8mm, these just mean there is less "self adjustment" needed in the rack when tightening. These are used for the outer fork mount.

4x bushings from worn out 9 speed mtb rear derailleur guide and tension pulleys.
These are 7mm wide. Since these were from my junk parts box and not removed from a derailleur i'm not 100% sure which specific rd they came from. These are used at the dropout eyelet.

Here is the hardware listed above mounted on the bolts. From top to bottom, inner fork mount, outer fork mount, dropout eyelet.
https://i.postimg.cc/wRpd3GNz/PXL-20...-050452560.jpg
Closer view.
https://i.postimg.cc/3d3TTz7C/PXL-20...-050537894.jpg
Here is the small difference between the 7 speed rd bushing used as the fork spacer and the ortlieb supplied spacer.
https://i.postimg.cc/Z9WmQ3mG/PXL-20...-050823988.jpg
Outer fork bolt.
https://i.postimg.cc/WDxVc3bh/PXL-20...-051742068.jpg
Fork spacer and inner bolt. You may be better off using the Tubus spacer with a washer on the inside of the rack mount.
https://i.postimg.cc/9wYH9YP7/PXL-20...-051805968.jpg
Dropout inner nut.
https://i.postimg.cc/VSxxHVDt/PXL-20...-060253739.jpg
Skewer position and clearance.
https://i.postimg.cc/K4DYBP8f/PXL-20...-060643990.jpg
Rack clearance.
https://i.postimg.cc/BjXZrRc7/PXL-20...-060721945.jpg
Rack mounted.
https://i.postimg.cc/grHvj6FF/PXL-20...-083428301.jpg

Very neat.
I felt the reach to my down tube water bottle was a little too long. I took my smallest hole saw and cut two pieces from a ~1/2" board, oiled them and remounted the bottle cage with slightly longer bolts, and it solved the problem.

For what it's worth, my feeling from experience is that it's not uncommon to have to improvise with front racks. I had to with my Tara and Troll. I was lucky and a smart mechanic knew the tricks for doing the fender setup, and he helped make me think differently of options for other bikes.

When I used the appropriate holes for the rack, it was at an obvious angle, front down. I wanted it level, so I used the fender holes and now it is level.

Are you riding one of the larger frame models with 700c wheels? Mine is 26 inch. That may explain it, though you would think the fork mounts would still be spaced the same? Anyway, glad you got it working.

700c