Dura-Ace FH-7403 question
I have a couple of Dura-Ace 7400 series hubs, and the FH7403 (the one that can take a hyperglide cassette with the mushroom locknut that help it press a 126mm spacing out to 130mm) has one quirk that is really frustrating.
It seems that, in order to tighten or remove the lockring with a typical lockring tool like the TL-FW30, I need to remove the axle (because of the size of the mushroom lock nut). A typical lockring tool just doesn't have the internal diameter to get over the mushroom locknut. I'm wondering if there is a lockring tool that has a large enough internal diameter to get around the mushroom lock nut--do I need to track down an old TL-HG15 or is there something I'm missing when it comes to using a hyperglide cassette on this particular hub? Maybe there's an obvious solution I'm just failing to recognize? This old FH-7403 instruction page says that both the TL-HG15 and the TL-FW30 can be used, but my experience has been the TL-FW30 requires the added step of removing the axle (and then needing to repack the bearings & adjust the lock nuts every time a cassette is replaced). https://manualzz.com/doc/53871484/sh...e-instructions |
Originally Posted by fvernon
(Post 22662411)
I have a couple of Dura-Ace 7400 series hubs, and the FH7403 (the one that can take a hyperglide cassette with the mushroom locknut that help it press a 126mm spacing out to 130mm) has one quirk that is really frustrating.
It seems that, in order to tighten or remove the lockring with a typical lockring tool like the TL-FW30, I need to remove the axle (because of the size of the mushroom lock nut). A typical lockring tool just doesn't have the internal diameter to get over the mushroom locknut. I'm wondering if there is a lockring tool that has a large enough internal diameter to get around the mushroom lock nut--do I need to track down an old TL-HG15 or is there something I'm missing when it comes to using a hyperglide cassette on this particular hub? Maybe there's an obvious solution I'm just failing to recognize? This old FH-7403 instruction page says that both the TL-HG15 and the TL-FW30 can be used, but my experience has been the TL-FW30 requires the added step of removing the axle (and then needing to repack the bearings & adjust the lock nuts every time a cassette is replaced). https://manualzz.com/doc/53871484/sh...e-instructions Maybe sand a little off the locknut by spinning it up against a belt sander (poor man's lathe), and/or take a little off the ID of your tool like with a sanding drum in a drill or dremel. Mark B |
Originally Posted by bulgie
(Post 22662447)
take a little off the ID of your tool like with a sanding drum in a drill or dremel.
|
Maybe use a readily available aftermarket lockring tool, rather than the Shimano freewheel tool? I don't recall having any problem with mine with this kind of tool.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6da06b45fc.jpg |
I have a couple 7403 hubs currently in service. I've got a tool like this one. I don't know what brand it is but I've never had a problem.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...94c65ee173.jpg |
If the hub has been taken apart, it's possible that the locknuts were installed on the wrong side, as both locknuts are not the same.The non-drive side (NDS) locknut has a larger diameter (by ~0.031") and a deeper bevel. The TL-FW30 will not fit over it. If your tool fits over the locknut currently installed on the non-drive side, then the locknuts have been switched, side for side.
Edit: The non-drive side locknut dfoes not fit into either of my two Shimano TL-FW30 or my Park tool. It's a light interference fit with mu LIfu. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dd49308282.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2cc074fee8.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1aa7b71205.jpg |
I got a set of DA wheels in a package trade that not only had the nuts swapped but they were both on backwards. The WTF? moment was very special. All in all it was actually a dyno deal and def good for a laugh.
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Learned something new today! Glad both of my 7403 hubs that came to me were overhauled correctly in the past. I can confirm I've never had an issue with using any normal Shimano FH lockring tool on them. Love these hubs.
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Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel
(Post 22662897)
...Love these hubs.
|
I was in the process of accepting DA as a quality, durable product until two things happened.
1. The piece that keeps the adjustment screws on the FD failed and fell off. 2. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...26050641_b.jpgFH-7403 cone RS1 2 on Flickr 1. is minor and can be addressed with something else than the original part. 2. Does not have an easy solution without extravagant $ outlay for a near commodity like part due to lack of supply of a unique design. Leads one to think it was designed to be disposable. I will stick with the Campagnolo components which I have a higher level of acceptance of failure because I have found parts or alternative solutions. Just my preference. No problem with others choosing other brands. |
Originally Posted by T-Mar
(Post 22662676)
If the hub has been taken apart, it's possible that the locknuts were installed on the wrong side, as both locknuts are not the same.The non-drive side (NDS) locknut has a larger diameter (by ~0.031") and a deeper bevel. The TL-FW30 will not fit over it. If your tool fits over the locknut currently installed on the non-drive side, then the locknuts have been switched, side for side.
|
Originally Posted by T-Mar
(Post 22662676)
If the hub has been taken apart, it's possible that the locknuts were installed on the wrong side
|
Originally Posted by bulgie
(Post 22662447)
Maybe sand a little off the locknut by spinning it up against a belt sander (poor man's lathe), and/or take a little off the ID of your tool like with a sanding drum in a drill or dremel.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...AC_SL1042_.jpg https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-Tapered.../dp/B002TKEHVM |
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