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-   -   New to Moisture - XL KHS Flite 720 (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=1242207)

Moisture 11-13-21 04:55 PM

New to Moisture - XL KHS Flite 720
 
What do you guys think of this bike? With a 600mm top tube and 110mm stem, it's one of the most aggressive fitting road bikes I've ever seen. The bottom bracket height of 267mm is also the lowest I've seen.

I'm amazed at how easily the bike pulls in both 39 and 53t front rings. Its not even that bad on climbs with only a 12-25t cassette.

I feel unsafe riding in the hoods due to not having enough leverage over the brake levers. I'll have to get used to riding in the drops. Would changing to a 90mm stem i got as a spare work okay if I angle the bars down a little more?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...83f56b2365.jpg

WhyFi 11-13-21 05:03 PM

Are you riding around on a trainer tire?

Moisture 11-13-21 05:17 PM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 22306285)
Are you riding around on a trainer tire?

I was today after buying the bike.. I probably will take it for a few more spins until i get my new tires.

Is 700x28 a good option? Likely order those.

Maelochs 11-13-21 07:51 PM

if the bike basically fits and you know enough about bikes to know if it basically fits then you can tell what you want to do to modify the fit.

if not, none of us, thousands of miles away, can tell you what might or might not fit.

As far as the tires .... how can we tell what clearance you have? And "700x28" covers a huge number of tires, all of which have vastly different ride characteristics ... and even inflated sizes.

I think you know all this anyway .... you definitely should.

Grats on the new bike. It will be interesting to hear how things go with it. As for all the rest ......

Apparently some Flite 720s were Al with CF probably bonded together. Not heard about any issues but KHS isn't overwhelmingly popular so I could see why i wouldn't hear much.

Those brifters look huge. What series are they? Old 105?

big john 11-13-21 08:21 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22306296)
I was today after buying the bike.. I probably will take it for a few more spins until i get my new tires.

Is 700x28 a good option? Likely order those.

Make sure they're going to fit before you order them.
I've had good luck with KHS bikes. Had a steel road bike and 2 mountain bikes. You can write to them on their web site and they'll take care of you.

If those are 105 brakes where the shift cable comes out of the top, instead of being hidden, the brakes will require a little more effort than some. They have good power, just need strong hands if you're on the hoods. You could slide in some fresh pads, might help.

That is a long top tube, I prefer 590. A shorter stem might be more comfortable.

Moisture 11-13-21 08:41 PM

I just don't have enough leverage over the front brake to get full stopping power in an emergency situation. But yes, these brakes are strong as ****. The most effective I've felt.

I will be making some changes to the handlebar reach and begin adapting to riding in the drops from now on.

I believe only the downtube and chainstays are carbon. It is an absolutely fantastic design, no doubt. Actually quite compliant and comfortable even with stock 700x23 tires.

The short reach stock brake calipers are rated for up to 700x28.. can maybe try pushing it to 30, but I know 28 will fit.. im thinking of some sort of hybrid tires as the bike will have to be able to deal with some gravel.

This is a 2008 bike, 10 speed shimano brifters the chain seems to skip a little in the bigger cogs and pass the second largest cog altogether in the rear cogs. Got it mostly dialed in with some barrel adjustor fiddling. I'll try to back out the b limit screw a little. Anything else to try? When should I be using the barrel adjustors on the underside of the downtube?

Moisture 11-13-21 08:43 PM

The little black tabs (for downshift on the front rings, upshift on the rear..) don't catch right away. I have to push the shifter all the way in once, then it will catch. Am I gonna have to take apart the shifters and spray a bit of oil into the PAWLS?

Can anyone recommend me some good 700x28 tires that don't feel like you are riding on 13 year old crumbling gum found underneath an elementary school pupils desk?

big john 11-13-21 09:13 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22306485)
The little black tabs (for downshift on the front rings, upshift on the rear..) don't catch right away. I have to push the shifter all the way in once, then it will catch. Am I gonna have to take apart the shifters and spray a bit of oil into the PAWLS?

Can anyone recommend me some good 700x28 tires that don't feel like you are riding on 13 year old crumbling gum found underneath an elementary school pupils desk?

I don't think you can take any Shimano shifters apart. What I've done is flip the bike upside down and spray silicone spray in the mechanism near the shift lever.

big john 11-13-21 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22306483)
I just don't have enough leverage over the front brake to get full stopping power in an emergency situation. But yes, these brakes are strong as ****. The most effective I've felt.

I will be making some changes to the handlebar reach and begin adapting to riding in the drops from now on.

I believe only the downtube and chainstays are carbon. It is an absolutely fantastic design, no doubt. Actually quite compliant and comfortable even with stock 700x23 tires.

The short reach stock brake calipers are rated for up to 700x28.. can maybe try pushing it to 30, but I know 28 will fit.. im thinking of some sort of hybrid tires as the bike will have to be able to deal with some gravel.

This is a 2008 bike, 10 speed shimano brifters the chain seems to skip a little in the bigger cogs and pass the second largest cog altogether in the rear cogs. Got it mostly dialed in with some barrel adjustor fiddling. I'll try to back out the b limit screw a little. Anything else to try? When should I be using the barrel adjustors on the underside of the downtube?

I suggest looking at a you tube video on adjusting the derailleurs but it sounds like you have some worn parts.

mstateglfr 11-14-21 10:57 AM

Oh lord- the king of misunderstanding bike fit, mechanics, and bike steering has a road bike.
This should entertain thru a bit of the upcoming cold weather.


Moist- dont angle the bars down more than they already are. As it is, the drops are pointing up at the bar ends. Angling the bars down more will push the bar ends to point even higher in the wrong direction.

SpedFast 11-14-21 11:18 AM

Hey Moisture, You might want to consider Tektro cross/inline brakes if you want to keep your hands on top and have access to the brakes. Rotating your bars isn't always the answer. Congrats on the new to you bike. Enjoy

If the frame will handle them, 28mm tires are much softer than 25 or 23mm no matter what brand because they usually run lower pressures than the narrower tires.
(https://www.ebay.com/itm/15441198267...sAAOSwzVxgdFpk) link for inline brake levers.

Moisture 11-14-21 01:12 PM


Originally Posted by mstateglfr (Post 22306950)
Oh lord- the king of misunderstanding bike fit, mechanics, and bike steering has a road bike.
This should entertain thru a bit of the upcoming cold weather.


Moist- dont angle the bars down more than they already are. As it is, the drops are pointing up at the bar ends. Angling the bars down more will push the bar ends to point even higher in the wrong direction.

When I Am in the drops (directly below the hoods,) and I have just two fingers wrapped around the end of the brake levers, my wrists are not exactly straight. I'd have to angle the bars down a little more to achieve this?

big john 11-14-21 02:47 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22307055)
When I Am in the drops (directly below the hoods,) and I have just two fingers wrapped around the end of the brake levers, my wrists are not exactly straight. I'd have to angle the bars down a little more to achieve this?

You could get a different handle bar with a short reach.

Moisture 11-14-21 03:28 PM

mstateglfr

I actually tried Angling the bars a little further down than as seen in the pic before reading your comment, it felt strange, will certainly have to angle it back up.

Is the way I have it angled in the picture okay, or should I rotate it up a little higher?

I realized I probably just have to adjust my hand grip a little to achieve a more comfortable wrist position. I currently have a 90mm stem mounted on there +7, then I'll flip it around (-7) and eventually swap back to the stock 110mm (+/- 7) stem as I get used to riding a road bike again.

shelbyfv 11-14-21 03:56 PM

Try to absorb this. https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/infor...your-ride.html

Moisture 11-14-21 05:16 PM

Will do. Thanks shelby.

I realized that the hoods just need to be mounted a little bit further down towards the bar ends to be able to comfortably press the brakes without needing to readjust your grip each time.

with the 90mm stem, I feel comfortable despite being still fairly aggressive in the drops, yet the hoods are super comfortable. Gotta love drop bars.

WhyFi 11-14-21 06:18 PM

I think that, to make a proper assessment, we're going to need a pic of your position on the bike.

Moisture 11-16-21 02:33 PM

Update - So I switched back to stock 110mm stem except mounted +7 degrees. I found that the 90mm stem brought the hoods to the correct stack I wanted, but they were a bit too close to me. The performance was still quite good though. Maybe a 100mm stem would have been better?

Would you guys recommend changing the 39/53 crankset to a 34/50, 36/50 or 36/52?

Reflector Guy 11-16-21 04:41 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22309767)
Would you guys recommend changing the 39/53 crankset to a 34/50, 36/50 or 36/52?

I'd be inclined to leave it as-is. But feel free to change it if you like.

big john 11-16-21 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22309767)

Would you guys recommend changing the 39/53 crankset to a 34/50, 36/50 or 36/52?

That's kinda up to you. Do you do a lot of climbing? Do you find the low gear isn't low enough?

mstateglfr 11-16-21 06:26 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22309767)
Update - So I switched back to stock 110mm stem except mounted +7 degrees. I found that the 90mm stem brought the hoods to the correct stack I wanted, but they were a bit too close to me. The performance was still quite good though. Maybe a 100mm stem would have been better?

Would you guys recommend changing the 39/53 crankset to a 34/50, 36/50 or 36/52?

Based on your long running thread in this forum about gearing I would think you would have what you want dialed in by now.

As mentioned though- what does it matter how I would set up that bike? You and I have different strengths, capabilities, goals, etc.

Moisture 11-17-21 11:21 AM


Originally Posted by mstateglfr (Post 22310021)
Based on your long running thread in this forum about gearing I would think you would have what you want dialed in by now.

As mentioned though- what does it matter how I would set up that bike? You and I have different strengths, capabilities, goals, etc.

I'm always open to opinions if it is backed by logical reasoning.

im switching to a compact. My new area north of the city in rural southern Ontario is literally all steep, relatively long hills. I like 39t, its a good versatile gear that serves you well under a wide variety of grades and conditions, but it won't cut it for serious hill climbing.

This frame uses carbon fibre for the downtube and chainstays. The rest is alloy. It works brilliant..

mprince 11-17-21 12:39 PM


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22310752)
I like 39t, its a good versatile gear that serves you well under a wide variety of grades and conditions, but it won't cut it for serious hill climbing.

I respectfully disagree. In both my younger days and even now, 39x27 has never let me down for "serious" hill climbing, which has included many climbs including Mount Mitchell here on the east coast.

Maelochs 11-17-21 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by mstateglfr (Post 22310021)
Based on your long running thread in this forum about gearing I would think you would have what you want dialed in by now.


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22310752)
im switching to a compact. My new area north of the city in rural southern Ontario is literally all steep, relatively long hills. I like 39t, its a good versatile gear that serves you well under a wide variety of grades and conditions, but it won't cut it for serious hill climbing.

This frame uses carbon fibre for the downtube and chainstays. The rest is alloy. It works brilliant..

​​​​​​​You ought to hash that out with moisture, who told us all:

Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22309815)
34/32 is a good useful gear and should get you up most hills.

i have 39/53 and 12-25 on my road bike. I find that anything higher than 53/13 isn't necessary for my needs as I'm already going about 55km/h.

39/25 actually isn't as bad as it sounds; i can climb some fairly decent hills with this gear and don't mind walking the rest of the way up if it is just too steep/long.

my 12-25 cassette is in good shape - would it be a good idea (for my needs at least) to change to a 34/50? I've used 34 before; its useful for climbs, but I hate spinning out in 34t and then needing to face too big of a jump at 50t when riding on flat pavement. Im thinking 36/50 should solve this? I can order a 36/52 from my supplier.

If I'm using a 52t, I'd likely end up using a 13 or even 14t final gear cassette.

I guess that Moisture dude doesn't know his stuff that well. :D

By the way .... might I point out hat it is useless to ask people about changing the chain rings if you don't mention the cluster? Usually it is a lot cheaper to change a cluster than to change chain rings .... and nowadays you can get everything from 11-23 to 11-34. No idea what is on the new bike .... unless you are the same Moisture bragging about riding and walking up all those hills .... :D


Originally Posted by mstateglfr (Post 22310021)
As mentioned though- what does it matter how I would set up that bike? You and I have different strengths, capabilities, goals, etc.


Originally Posted by Moisture (Post 22310752)
I'm always open to opinions if it is backed by logical reasoning.

Um .... yeah except this is not a matter of opinion. so much.

If, on a specific bike, I would run one inch of spacers and a 100-mm stem at plus seven ... ; that is because that would FIT me, and have enough decades on bikes to know what fits. It is not "opinion," it is "This way hurts and that way doesn't."

If you have a specific stem at a specific angle with a specific number of spacers .... no one's "opinion" about whether that is right means anything. All that matters is how it Actually fits you. As was mentioned, without at least seeing you on the bike, it is impossible to have a relevant, informed "opinion" about bike fit with specific parts.

You cannot endear yourself to this community by asking opinions on subjects which are not subject to rational resolution by opinion, any more than you can make a lace here by giving advice you don't understand or making claims you disavow the next day (well, not a place you would want, anyway ... )

I learned how to set up a cockpit by trial and error. I still fine-tune all the time as my fitness levels change, as I age, and as I shift from bike to bike I have to spend a little time wondering if it is the cockpit set-up of r me that needs to adapt ..... but it isn't hard to figure out because I have been doing it for so long.

Not saying I could set up a bike for anyone else (though I know I could in some cases) but when it comes to setting up a bike for myself, where I get immediate feedback ...

Same with gearing. I could not care less what works for someone else. Gearing isn't a game, it is a way to improve or at least affect the quality of a ride. You want to bust your knees on hills, and end up walking? Cool, if that is what you want. Someone else wants to spin at 140 rpm? Cool for that person. I want to get up the climb without having a heart attack or having my lungs stop working ... so I choose gearing which facilitates that. If I rode taller hills, I would need lower gearing. if I never rode hills, I could ride SS. If I can get into better shape, I can go faster up the same hills and seek out longer and/or steeper hills with the same gearing.

I sincerely have no interest at all in suing what someone else uses. I have no interest in using what someone else recommends. No one gets the immediate feedback my body gives me.

You can get the same experience ... by getting experience. Ride your new bike ... . it looks like a good one. Change whatever you want ..... it is your money, but also your bike and your ride. Do what you like.

learn what works for you, then .....

Do What Works For You.

​​​​​​​I could ramble on with this nonsense all day but I need to go for a bike ride. :D


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