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is it a mullet? if not, it might be a Hinny
Back in April, I hurt my knee after 5km the day following a 200km mountain bike weekend... As I knew that the setup was not as good as it should, I went for a fitting that revealed very little needed to be changed... So I fixed a few things and to ease the stress on my knees, I tried a cheap 36T chainring. It did help but I was not too pleased with the chainline alignment (+4.5mm Offset). A New eagle oval 36T +6offset came for sale cheaply on ebay I put it on and it was much better but my knees were still a little tender.
As I was looking into crank length for my daughter's bike, I remember the fitter advised me to go shorter because I am small... I read several things including the following article. https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...03687016302125 When applying the calculation ratio for adult based on leg length, I found that 165 cranks is almost optimal for me. I had been looking for a rival 165 crankset but the crisis did not help before the summer. I looked again and thanks to Brexit, once all duties paid, a Rival 165 imported from the EU cost £5 less than a locally sourced carbon force 1 crankset :mad::bang: so I put a 165 carbon with a new kmc x11SL chain. This was much nicer on my knees... and last week, while washing Netflix late at night... I put a low offer for a new shimano SLX 11-46 cassette... and it got accepted... So it went on the bike at the weekend and I put a new SRAM PC1110 ( I kept these cheap one on the shelf as I don't want to be stopped by the consumable)... I did 2 shakedown rides and it is really nice... => go up offroad hill easily although I didn't do something too challenging as it was 9.00PM in the dark... =>It is quick on gravel path; I raced 4 deers (3 males 1 females) @ 28kph :P (again it was 9.00PM) The new transmission is very smooth and quiet and I think it is down to the chain, the sram outer links are flat whereas the kmc are raised/shaped with the X bridge which I think made the transition noisy. So 21.9 to 91.8 gear inch... not quite as broad as 40T or 38T x 11-50T but is it mullet enough? |
Isn't the requirement to call something a mullet being that you've mixed and matched road (usually on the front end, business) and MTB (on the back end, party) components in assembling the drivetrain?
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...shimano SLX 11-46 cassette... |
Originally Posted by Badger6
(Post 22228686)
Isn't the requirement to call something a mullet being that you've mixed and matched road (usually on the front end, business) and MTB (on the back end, party) components in assembling the drivetrain?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f8c524302.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...831f7b32d.jpeg the range is just a little narrower as 11-46 rather than 11-50 or 11-52. |
Below the drivetrain on my Koga-Miyata 'Graveller'.
48/28 in the front with a Dura-Ace front derailleur and a 11-32T 11-speed with Deore rear derailleur in the rear. Indexed/friction bar-ends. 24.3 to 121 gear inches. In a next iteration I will probably change it to a 46/26 x 11-36T for a 20.1 to 116 gear inches range. http://i.imgur.com/FjcBbQE.jpg |
Originally Posted by Badger6
(Post 22228686)
Isn't the requirement to call something a mullet being that you've mixed and matched road (usually on the front end, business) and MTB (on the back end, party) components in assembling the drivetrain?
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Either that is a horrible picture or that chainring is trashed.
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Originally Posted by c_m_shooter
(Post 22229279)
Either that is a horrible picture or that chainring is trashed.
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Originally Posted by tdilf
(Post 22229320)
Or he uses wax on his drivetrain.
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I was looking for SRAM XG compatible cassette (10-46T) and Sunrace is out of stock everywhere... So 10-50T may be an option... but it would require a derailleur bodge or adding goat link.
https://r2-bike.com/media/image/prod...minium_1~2.jpg But, while looking at things, I came across offset upper pulley like the kcnc, leonardi-racing-roldana. Wolftooth does something similar. To my understanding, these things go on a std cage and thanks to offset bushes (like camber adjusters on some car) the rotating center of the upper pulley is offset by "Xmm" . I am wondering if between this and the B screw adjustment (as I did to suit the 11-46T), could this be suitable enough for a 10-50T... adding another 3 to 5mm of upper pulley clearance? In theory, this could be a good inexpensive solution but can the pulley bush move around the mounting screw and go the wrong way causing interference (-3mm) instead of clearance (+3mm) or does the chain tension controlled by the bottom pulley make sure that it is always in clearance? https://r2-bike.com/media/image/prod...h-12-teeth.jpg https://r2-bike.com/media/image/prod...xt-10-fach.jpg |
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