I've often wondered if a 21"stepthrough fork was the same as a 23" mens frame fork. Never tried it, would like to know.Although some stepthroughs are 19 1/2" But, would the paint match? I'm still thinking that you could swap just the chrome crown cap, but again I don't know for certain. Do you have cable cutters? You'll need them to modify cables. Not a big deal. 15 bucks or 25 for the nicer Park Tool.

[MENTION=466652]johnnyspaghetti[/MENTION]

Don't lose that threaded ferrule or the housing. Even if the inner cable is toast, the other bits are worth saving.

I think I can get the paint to come back. The fork has the Sir Walter decals on each side that are amazingly still good. I have cut & crimped many cables. I'll go down that road when i get there.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...9&disp=safe&zw

I'd love to hear if the crown cap from the 58 fits the later fork if you go that way. It would be another goody for my bag of tricks!

Spring is getting closer, and the parts are starting to come together on the '34 Raleigh Sports. It's starting to get more expensive as I locate more authentic parts and ditch the place holders that I've had from the start, but the bike keeps getting better - at least on paper. I have yet to get out in the garage for any meaningful assembly time. I've found a Raleigh fluted crank from the 30's-40's era as well as some 26x1-1/4" tires (tyres) - they are somewhat wrong in that they are going on Westrick rims - they should be Endricks and 650B, not 650A, but some things are difficult to come by. I have a K hub waiting for the right rims to come along. This'll be a long term project.

Looks like they used the same frame for both the Sports and Sports Light Roadster. You could go either way. The roadster version used 650A Endricks. Here's a link to the 1934 catalog:
http://veterancycleclublibrary.org.u...20Library).pdf

So I just did my first tear down of a hub on my 3 speed. The hub was from 79 and I figured it was time for a tear down since the bearings were running very gritty. The inside was pretty clean but I did do a full tear down. I got it back together and it works perfectly.

The only thing I noticed is that on the sprocket side I have some play in the sprocket area, when adjusting it tighter it binds. I also adjusted the non drive side and do have some play overall on the hub. I adjusted as best I could. I even have the tiny sturmy archer hub adjustment tool to fit on that cone and I still get some play. Is this normal?

Here is a video of the drive side.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesl...in/dateposted/

Interesting angular on that frame. and you are local.

You do want to leave some play in the hub bearings. More than you would on the bottom bracket or headset. That looks like a bit too much, but it's hard to say. There's times where I thought I set the cones perfectly, but when I mounted the wheel in the frame, it flopped side to side too much and I had to readjust. I think the best way to adjust them is to mount the wheel in the frame and wiggle the rim side to side. You can be more accurate that way. You don't want it tight, you want a bit of play there. If you have a second little SA cone spanner, you can leave the wheel in the frame while you make the adjustment and only have to loosen the axle nut.

I have this frame striped out. Its a nice straight 23" DL22L. Breaks my heart the frame is good.

Who wants it? It is bare other than the drive side BB race cup that may or may not be any good. I just bagged the spindle & balls & cup with only a glance the drive side spindle race looking questionable. It does have the spring cap oiler port.

I have not done the headset on the other Robin Hood as of yet and the forks appear identical the only difference being the drop outs barrel end VS blade end. The crown cap dropped out nicely when I knocked the the lower race off. I am 99% sure they will swap right out. The frame necks measure out 6-9/16" + or - 0.100 between the 4-23" Raleigh built frames I have. I sold off the 1960 DL22L 23" about 3 weeks ago I will assume it would measure consistent with that.
I know you like to see little differences between the years hear is one you may be aware of on the rear of the chain cover. The bent 1969 cover is cut round on the rear mount as the 1958 comes to a point with a raised dimple & the decals have a very slight difference.

Attachment 598251

I wasn't aware of 23" stepthroughs. I've only seen 19 1/2 and 21. And there's the problem. I've noticed on this thread that the 3 speeders here tend to be riders more than collectors and don't have much use for a bike that doesn't fit them. On top of that, we seem to be almost exclusively grown men who, on average, are too tall for the smaller frames. That leaves tall framed bikes at a premium. Since bikes are meant to be ridden, it only makes sense to cannibalize less useful bikes to keep more useful bikes on the road. Thanks for the chainguard tip. I'll take a closer look at them.

23" step thrus
 

I salvaged a black 23" Robin Hood step through frame fork and chain guard that I found in a scrap metal bin. It had a shop label from Chicago and a bike registration sticker from Wichita I think. I added salvaged fenders and wheels and rode it for a couple years before selling. I'm 6'-0" and it was a nicer fit than the 21's I otherwise have but it was time to make room for a new project. I'll see if I have any photos.

tear down
 

May I ask what degreaser you're using? I've just opened one up for first time in years. I have it a good soak in WD-40 before opening, and that really loosened chunks of old oil. But some still clings. I'd like to avoid extensive brushing or wiping if possible. I have a number of hubs I'd like to overhaul - there's always someone throwing away old aw hub rusty rimmed wheels and it seems like a waste to not at least pick the hubs for some happier future use.

This is what this frame measured center of crank to top of seat post tube.
Am I doing that right?

The other bike I picked up at the same time for another $20 a 1970 AMF Herc. has some oddities to it & has a 5-3/4" frame neck. That one is getting part-ed out as well. Let me ask this.

Will 26 x 1-1/4" tires swap with 26 X 1-3/8" 37-590?

I never paid enough attention to 70s catalogs. 23" DL22L is not mentioned in catalogs up to 1970. I don't have access to a 71 catalog, but it does appear in the 1972 catalog. Those are Raleigh catalogs. Don't know about the Robin Hood line.

26 x 1 1/4 is usually = EA1/597mm wheels, so, no. I have seen some odd markings on tires over the years, so the ISO number (e.g., 590, 597) is the best guide.

Thanks, I have a good set of 597's. EA1, I'll keep that in mind. That's what I thought.

Bad Memory Time! Which side of a Raleigh DL1 front wheel has the so called fixed side? It seems to make sense it would be the drive side? Why they built axles without lock nuts is just weird.

Yup, the non-drive side is where the adjustable cone should be.

The way I always remembered is, both wheel bearings adjust on the left side. On the rear hub, you do screw the cone down and back it off, but you can't get a fine adjustment because the cone is fixed to the axle flat by that special washer, so the final adjustment is done on the non drive side same as the front wheel.

[MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION], that's a great mnemonic. Now I can remember it forever.

Hi,
I hope it's OK to ask my specific question in this thread.

Although I'm riding a "vintage" MTB this thread is on my subscription list because I really like the look and the "aura" of the bike you're showing here.

Unfortunately in Germany you see a Raleigh Sports on ebay once in a blue moon (no need to talk about the Schwinns or Robin Hoods).

So, do you know if there's a pendant for continental Europe? Since Sturmey Archer is very rare here I would say that these would use a Fichtel Sachs (Torpedo) IGH. I only finde bikes like these but the're lacking the elegance of the Raleighs:

https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...08030-217-9505

https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...73100-217-8190

Those bikes are relatively modern. I have seen fine looking vintage bikes from continental Europe, but they tend to be older than these.
edit:
Quite a few can be seen here:
https://www.flickr.com/groups/hub_gear_roadsters/pool/

I really like Schwalbe's cruiser tires in 635x42

This is pretty sweet!

World Championship Raleigh: Jeff Bock Lake Pepin Rider | Cycle EXIF

WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RALEIGH: JEFF BOCK LAKE PEPIN RIDER
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/...in-rider-1.jpg

One of Ohio’s most esteemed frame builders, Jeff Bock, is a self-confessed Raleigh addict. After a long stint working in shops that were Raleigh dealers and participating in last year’s Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour, he decided to build one of his own.
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/...in-rider-2.jpg

The geometry, based on an early ‘60s Raleigh Superbe, was tweaked to accommodate 650b wheels, and the lugs and BB shell were cut from blanks, inspired by the old Prugnat lug set. He also built the front and rear racks with 4130, 5/16 inch diameter tubing.
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/...in-rider-8.jpg

The original Superbe paint scheme of Bronze Green was maintained, with box lining by John Parker (with a brush), but the real star is the rear hub: a 1953 Sturmey Archer unit with an alloy shell, which had sat in a bin at his shop for decades, waiting for this build.
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/...n-rider-10.jpg