Better??


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...44bdb5a4e.jpeg

Wordle 282 4/6

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BTW why is clamping a bike on the top tube triggering for some people? Obviously a carbon fiber frame should NOT be clamped at the top tube (or any tube). Duh.

But for a metal frame, I think it's on the GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe) list. If not, why does my Park Tool clamp even have a channel in the middle to allow the brake cable free access while clamped to the top tube?

Mrs datlas and I are the Alpha-Omega on today's Wordle. She got it in one try, it took me 6 (so my streak almost ended!).

That looks really nice. I like it.

Had everything set up to do a century this morning. Wife has work, Grams was coming to watch the child, plan was to start at 5 am and be back before 11 am.

Temperature this morning was suppose to be high 30s and upper 40s by the time I was done. It wasn’t ideal but I was going to roll with it.

What I won’t roll with is 25 degrees. It’s still currently 25 degrees. 25 degrees isn’t an issue for 30 miles or so but would never finish a century in that temperature.

So now I am inpatiently waiting for the temperature to rise. Every 3 mins is another mile I won’t be able to do. At this rate I hope I have time for a metric.

There's a cycling one done in the same way coming out.

Remember, don't stand still, don't look around, don't talk to people, and for God's sake don't make eye contact. Also, "I didn't see nothing" can be helpful.....

Not if you have a carbon seat post and everyone does nowadays, unless one is a cycling tech curmudgeon. :innocent:

lookin good!

That's a Shame

The 2 of you don't stand a chance. Not even combined.

Expensive, but well worth it if you own several carbon bikes.

https://silca.cc/collections/workben.../hirobel-clamp

Even some metallic frames are too thin for an overly tight clamp. Buddy's aluminum tandem has 2 dents in it from a stand.

ikr?...wtaf! It's 21 and snowing here today ffs.

Not me brother.. Ive broken more of them than I care to think about. The last one was the Trek post on the cross bike. I always break them in the rear, right at the clamp. Thomson and kore seat posts ftw.
I don't want to think about having carbon shards removed from that area.

My wife broke a carbon post on our tandem, Many tandems have a short TT in the stoker box which means the stoker saddle is slammed as far back as it goes. We were on a tandem tour and the tour mechanic was offering free tune-ups for a "tip." He saw that our stoker post was half sheared. It's been replaced with a standard post.

Why, why would you ever mention that?

And never have your back to the door.

Short answer: seat posts are cheaper than frames.

Seat posts are designed to handle clamping forces.
Metal frames often feature butted tubes that are easier to damage than you might think.
Paint scratches are annoying. <not an issue with brushed Ti, obv>

Spring snow storm last night. 15F degrees and several inches of snow this morning. No century for me today. ;)

Still cheaper than the frame.

I get it.

The Habanero is straight-gauge Ti so it's not an issue. I almost think that it's SAFER to clamp the TT than the seatpost which is crabon fiber and could assplode. So in this case, I am pretty sure it's ok to clamp the top tube. I understand that may still be a trigger to others so I will try to be sensitive.

#woke

If it's a proprietary shape, then cost isn't the main problem with breaking a seat post.

Further, a seat post is much easier to replace than a frame.