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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

dweenk 07-14-19 09:19 AM


Originally Posted by dimini (Post 21025907)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bd95b0e2f.jpeg

My 1974 Superbe needs just a couple more goodies for it to be complete. 1) I have no key for the locking fork. 2) Need a new cotter pin for the crank—hopefully one that has the acorn nut w/ initial R on it. Anyone here know the trick to getting a key for the fork, or a new cylinder and new key? Cotter pins are likely EBay find but I think the missing key is a bit hopeful.

Try looking for someone who makes keys for old British sports cars. I had one made by a guy in Frederick, MD several months ago - his name escapes me at the moment. Edit: You should be able to read the key # on the face of the lock.

BigChief 07-14-19 10:04 AM


Originally Posted by dimini (Post 21025907)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bd95b0e2f.jpeg

My 1974 Superbe needs just a couple more goodies for it to be complete. 1) I have no key for the locking fork. 2) Need a new cotter pin for the crank—hopefully one that has the acorn nut w/ initial R on it. Anyone here know the trick to getting a key for the fork, or a new cylinder and new key? Cotter pins are likely EBay find but I think the missing key is a bit hopeful.

Unfortunately, the original Raleigh cotters use a British thread and any modern cotters you'll find won't work with the "R" nuts. In fact, just about any new cotters you find on eBay won't fit the Raleigh spindle either. Your best bet is to try to reuse the original cotter or replace the pair with quality cotters with the correct taper for vintage Raleighs from Mark at BikeSmith Design and Fabrication

Salubrious 07-15-19 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by dimini (Post 21025907)
My 1974 Superbe needs just a couple more goodies for it to be complete. 1) I have no key for the locking fork. 2) Need a new cotter pin for the crank—hopefully one that has the acorn nut w/ initial R on it. Anyone here know the trick to getting a key for the fork, or a new cylinder and new key? Cotter pins are likely EBay find but I think the missing key is a bit hopeful.

Get the number off of the fork lock. Look on ebay, search for 'Raleigh fork lock key' and see if one matches your lock number. Just that easy :)

dimini 07-15-19 10:15 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21027767)
Get the number off of the fork lock. Look on ebay, search for 'Raleigh fork lock key' and see if one matches your lock number. Just that easy :)

That sounds pretty simple. Yes, it seems as though there's a 3-4 character number stamped on the face of the cylinder. I'm guessing that would match up with the style of blank key, but not literally the specific key. I'm no locksmith so all this is "magic" to me. Thanks for the suggestion!

dweenk 07-15-19 10:30 AM

@dimini

Can you fit 2 bikes inside your Mini?

Salubrious 07-15-19 10:30 AM


Originally Posted by dimini (Post 21027799)
That sounds pretty simple. Yes, it seems as though there's a 3-4 character number stamped on the face of the cylinder. I'm guessing that would match up with the style of blank key, but not literally the specific key. I'm no locksmith so all this is "magic" to me. Thanks for the suggestion!

Actually that will be the key itself, all set to go. There weren't that many different locks, but don't worry- its unlikely anyone in your town will have the same key :)

dimini 07-15-19 10:40 AM


Originally Posted by dweenk (Post 21027832)
@dimini

Can you fit 2 bikes inside your Mini?

One road bike fits inside w/back seat folded down w/wheels removed. Myhttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c224c6dd26.jpg
folding MINI bike fits beautifully in the storage behind the rear seat. However, I have a 2-bike roof rack that only takes one person 3 minutes to attach. I've used the roof rack once with the Raleigh Superbe and it made me really, really nervous as I think the Raleigh exceeds the maximum weight for the bike attachment. It's also a PITA as the front fender needs to come off before it can be attached into the fork mount.

dweenk 07-15-19 11:10 AM

Do see a Nikon F-1 in the photo?

gster 07-15-19 07:19 PM

The New Pashley Roadster

A friend of mine bought this bike a few years ago and fixed

a problem with the hub.

He has a few bikes and thought it best to let this one go.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c37c0d844c.jpg
I've made some changes to suit me.
The bars/stem and grips have been replaced w/ period appropriate pieces.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9f738bc4be.jpg
I dyed the saddle black, added a pump and swapped out some proper rubber block pedals...https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b08866eae.jpg
All in all a very nice but heavy roadster.
Updates to follow.

AD-SLE 07-15-19 08:44 PM

Oh my. I used to love my 3 Speeds. So darn practical. I rode one 5 miles each day to the train station and back. You don't break any land speed records but it sure beats walking! I have this 1970 which is a great size, wheels good. But, a snow plow found her and bent stem and fork. Sadly, my inventory and source of old Raleighs was moved on by she who must be obeyed. I don't see messing with FleaBay. I need the tyres for my Dad's pre war Sports which is where I should put my focus. Thoughts? Bike is in the Concord NH area.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4c59184c30.jpg

BigChief 07-16-19 04:15 AM

That is a tough one money wise, but to me, well worth fixing. 23" frames are getting harder to come by. Looks like the frame survived intact from the picture. Says a lot about the good ole 20-30 roadster frames. The color looks to be burgundy. A tall fork or a stepthrough in that color would eventually come along if one had patience. Or it could be a repaint project. But yeah, a bunch of work and somewhere north of 50 bucks to do. Good bike though.

gster 07-16-19 04:34 AM


Originally Posted by AD-SLE (Post 21029034)
Oh my. I used to love my 3 Speeds. So darn practical. I rode one 5 miles each day to the train station and back. You don't break any land speed records but it sure beats walking! I have this 1970 which is a great size, wheels good. But, a snow plow found her and bent stem and fork. Sadly, my inventory and source of old Raleighs was moved on by she who must be obeyed. I don't see messing with FleaBay. I need the tyres for my Dad's pre war Sports which is where I should put my focus. Thoughts? Bike is in the Concord NH area.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4c59184c30.jpg

These guys in Owen Sound have a lot of NOS Raleigh stuff at reasonable prices.
Hoop Rider
https://www.hoopriderparts.com/
Worth a call.
Not everything is listed on their site.

gster 07-16-19 04:49 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21029278)
These guys in Owen Sound have a lot of NOS Raleigh stuff at reasonable prices.
Hoop Rider
https://www.hoopriderparts.com/
Worth a call.
Not everything is listed on their site.


Raleigh Fork w/ key @ $57.00
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f5f89d2aff.jpg


https://www.hoopriderparts.com/produ...%20fork%20wkey

I ordered some parts a while back and had them within 3 days.
I am in Toronto.

AD-SLE 07-16-19 04:56 AM

I was hoping someone was going to say "I'll come rescue it". Not enable my addiction of working on lovely old vintage bikes made in England. I did browse FleaBay months ago but concluded I needed to measure the fork. Removed bent stem, attempted a measure when installed. Considered fork removal but then thought better of it. Could not recall if the bearings have a cage or are loose. Loose bearings, although not complicated, was more than I wanted to do in a 15 minute inspect. Is there some expert out there that can tell me the "fork specifications" I am looking for? Or, does someone want to come get it? I really have too many bikes.

On further review. I see Hooprider has non lock type forks (14 of them) and they are listed at 6", 7" and 8". Sadly the brown one is 6". For sizing, could it be that simple? Modern stuff has me thinking in more precise measurements.

BigChief 07-16-19 07:21 AM


Originally Posted by AD-SLE (Post 21029300)
I was hoping someone was going to say "I'll come rescue it". Not enable my addiction of working on lovely old vintage bikes made in England. I did browse FleaBay months ago but concluded I needed to measure the fork. Removed bent stem, attempted a measure when installed. Considered fork removal but then thought better of it. Could not recall if the bearings have a cage or are loose. Loose bearings, although not complicated, was more than I wanted to do in a 15 minute inspect. Is there some expert out there that can tell me the "fork specifications" I am looking for? Or, does someone want to come get it? I really have too many bikes.

On further review. I see Hooprider has non lock type forks (14 of them) and they are listed at 6", 7" and 8". Sadly the brown one is 6". For sizing, could it be that simple? Modern stuff has me thinking in more precise measurements.

You would need an old Raleigh fork. The upper bearing race and lock nut are oddball 26tpi threads. And yes, the headset contains 50 loose 5/32 ball bearings

JohnDThompson 07-16-19 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21029475)
You would need an old Raleigh fork. The upper bearing race and lock nut are oddball 26tpi threads.

An alternative would be to use a standard thread fork and replace the 26tpi headset with a 24tpi headset.

Ged117 07-16-19 09:48 AM

What do you fellows use for housing clamps? My Superbe has brake housing and wire for the front headlight running back to the AG hub. It also has a Cyclo 3 speed derailer with the shifter mount for the top tube. The housing for the derailer cable is long and needs to be kept secure and neat against the top tube just before it meets the seat post. Originally, the bike had rubber clamps to keep it all neat, but needless to say they were 70 years old and broke apart when I disassembled the bike. Apart from the usual plastic suspects, anything rubber that would be appropriate for the bike? I'm looking around for those silver clamps too.

AD-SLE 07-16-19 10:17 AM

Thank you for the replies re TPI etc. I see that not only do I need to worry about fork tube length, I have to worry about TPI and early 26 vs. later ISO 24. Joy. And thank you Sheldon Brown, a true loss. Unknowingly I grew up 10 miles away from Harris Cyclery. Rode my pre war Raleigh Sports over but he was not there. Silly me.

Back on topic. So, the below photo. I see the seller no longer has the head set nut. How does one date this kind of stuff? Patience. Learning. Any tips on what I should ask the seller before I make a longer than usual drive? And then I need a stem.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f0e036172b.jpg

gna 07-16-19 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by AD-SLE (Post 21029794)
Thank you for the replies re TPI etc. I see that not only do I need to worry about fork tube length, I have to worry about TPI and early 26 vs. later ISO 24. Joy. And thank you Sheldon Brown, a true loss. Unknowingly I grew up 10 miles away from Harris Cyclery. Rode my pre war Raleigh Sports over but he was not there. Silly me.

Back on topic. So, the below photo. I see the seller no longer has the head set nut. How does one date this kind of stuff? Patience. Learning. Any tips on what I should ask the seller before I make a longer than usual drive? And then I need a stem.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f0e036172b.jpg

The threads on Raleigh 3-speeds are all oddball 26tpi. You can mix and match. That said, I do not know if the fork from a lady's bike is the same as the fork from a gentleman's bike.

BigChief 07-16-19 03:27 PM

I suppose it would be best to measure the head tube to be sure, but the stepthrough and the 23" gents head tube look darn close to me.

gpdave 07-17-19 05:12 AM

Not internal gearing but they are British
 
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...177d5436bf.jpg
I recently picked up a couple of British bikes that I believe to be from the 1940s. Though not internal gearing they both have three "speeds".
First is a Carlton Continental 1948-1952.
This bike has been modified a bit over it's long life (brakes, pedals,bars and the Airlight hubs have been replaced into 27" Araya rims) but in good condition overall.
I plan to restore it to it original to it's original configuration more or less. But I don't think I will paint it.
I have taken it out for several short trips and love the way it rides.
Second is a Phillips. Not sure of the model but going by the Cyclo derailleur it appears to be a 1946.
This one is rough and may take a while to get back on the road.
The rear hub is a Phillips low flange with a " flip-flop" feature.
My knowledge of Phillips is minimal at best so I would appreciate any information you can provide.
Thanks
Davehttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6288d67a56.jpghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8cc2783f05.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9408a3b95c.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d8117576de.jpg

BigChief 07-17-19 06:01 AM

Fascinating bikes. Out of my knowledge range though. Hope to learn more.

PeterLYoung 07-17-19 08:18 AM

Philips 1957 Step Thru Bike Frame No K651746
 
Just completed the refurbishment of my 1957 Phillips P2 step thru bike which I have previously written up and posted.

I don't know where it was kept but it survived in good cosmetic condition, all the chrome work polished up well after 48 hours in white vinegar.

The rims I polished up after dismantling the wheels, so much easier when no spokes are present. Had the wheels rebuilt with stainless spokes. The paintwork was all original with decals in 'fair' condition, some were flaking off so I compounded as much as I dare to clean up the paintwork and then clear lacquered the frame, fenders and chain guard.

All bearings were stripped cleaned and reassembled with new balls except those inside the replacement Sturmey Archer SW 3 Speed, which were in good shape (the original I thought had lost the change toggle so I obtained a couple more 1957 SW's and used the best one as a replacement to rebuild the rear wheel. When I stripped the original I found it still intact but by that time the wheel was rebuilt with the replacement hub). The replacement was stripped, cleaned and re assembled. It works fine, changes gear OK and engages correctly, it runs silently as it should.

The bike is all original except for the following:-

Tires & tubes

Spokes

3 Speed (same vintage as original)

3 Speed change cable

Brake cable outers (original inners reused, they were in good condition)

Brake blocks, replaced with Koolstop 45mm.

Test rode it last night and it rides beautifully, really pleased with how it turned out.

Some more Photos
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...276d8c2682.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8bcfcaf6e5.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a1198ab444.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bfcc45e2af.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c48742a480.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e4c8e52bde.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f4f011a75b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...daf4c8a28d.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4563f4ca46.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a9bfcbc673.jpg

BigChief 07-17-19 11:19 AM


Originally Posted by PeterLYoung (Post 21031452)
Just completed the refurbishment of my 1957 Phillips P2 step thru bike which I have previously written up and posted.

I don't know where it was kept but it survived in good cosmetic condition, all the chrome work polished up well after 48 hours in white vinegar.

The rims I polished up after dismantling the wheels, so much easier when no spokes are present. Had the wheels rebuilt with stainless spokes. The paintwork was all original with decals in 'fair' condition, some were flaking off so I compounded as much as I dare to clean up the paintwork and then clear lacquered the frame, fenders and chain guard.

All bearings were stripped cleaned and reassembled with new balls except those inside the replacement Sturmey Archer SW 3 Speed, which were in good shape (the original I thought had lost the change toggle so I obtained a couple more 1957 SW's and used the best one as a replacement to rebuild the rear wheel. When I stripped the original I found it still intact but by that time the wheel was rebuilt with the replacement hub). The replacement was stripped, cleaned and re assembled. It works fine, changes gear OK and engages correctly, it runs silently as it should.

The bike is all original except for the following:-

Tires & tubes

Spokes

3 Speed (same vintage as original)

3 Speed change cable

Brake cable outers (original inners reused, they were in good condition)

Brake blocks, replaced with Koolstop 45mm.

Test rode it last night and it rides beautifully, really pleased with how it turned out.

Some more Photos

Very good job. That turned out beautifully. Hang on to the old bent trigger shifter. They can be repaired. I've fixed a bunch of em. I see you found the correct shifter cable in the old, pre-pinch bolt style. Very nice.

markk900 07-17-19 11:21 AM

Great job Peter. Saddle looks exactly like the Wrights on my wife’s 55 Standard Model K. How do you find the koolstop 45mm? I used the continentals and they are ok; the 45mm look better.


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