The first new English bicycle I ever had was a 1954 New Hudson with 26 in x 1 3/8 wheels and three speed Sturmey Archer hub, the shifter was a Twist Grip style.
I was a 14 year old kid at the time...after about a year of normal riding...the bottom frame bar gave way as I hit a dip in the road...the swedge joint had separated..
The quality of this bike was not as good as my previuos Indian Scout...nor as rugged as my Roll Fast.
I love the thoughts of seeing "work bikes" on these pages...complete with baskets & racks..stands etc....preferably, not restored and showing some of the ravages of time, like me. LOL
Currently I have only one bike, that being a Raleigh Tourist 28 inch wheels, that my wife bought for me in 1972...it has over 60,000 miles on it...I love it!
all the best Big Chief
Julius in Ohio

Ah, another DL-1 rider! Great bikes. Nothing else like them. I've only had mine about 3 years now. Needed a little cleaning up.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4dc2ff1c5.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2dba7e9116.jpg

Weathered DL
 

Hello Big Chief
Nice ... a weathered DL, to be sure.
Back in the 70's & 80's before Cel phones, I too had the huge Brooks Seat bag...full of tools, parts, snacks, you name it...just the ticket for those 100 mile Sunday rides.
A bit of Ospho will ****** that rust....there may be better products out today...I've lost touch.
all the best, Julius in Ohio
​​​​​​​

The bike isn't mine, yet, but as soon as my neighbor gets around to digging it back out, I'll snap a few pics. Its got a rear rack, folding rear baskets, and someone replaced the shifters with twin three speed triggers. But otherwise its intact and ridable other than likely have 50+ year old rubber on it.
I've got a Robin Hood Sports in my attic that has a tall frame, a good bit taller than my 23" Raleigh Sports. I used to ride it a bit but as I got older, and less limber, getting on and off it became an issue so it got packed away along with several others.
I just picked up a super small Robin Hood frame, smaller than any I've seen before but still for 26" wheels.
Its a greasy mess with two 50's era Raleigh wheels on it. I'm thinking its likely a 19" or smaller frame, but I'll have to take a tape measure to it when i get the chance.
Its basically just a frame and fork with a crankset, and a wrong set of wheels. It needs fenders, handle bars, stem, grips, and two proper wheels. I'll likely just clean it up and either sell it or trade it for something I can use.

Last saturday, we had our annual motorcycle swap mee here.
Was lucky enough to find some nice (and cheap) motorcycle stuff and also some bicycle parts, including this very good condition Brooks B66S for only 15€. :)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b9b1341a07.jpg
Lucky me...

Peter

Lovely saddle! That is a great bargain. Good for you.👍😀

W.L.SOON,Malaysia

I have an idea for a winter super-beater. I have a '72 Sports with an unknown fork on the front (it looks 70s French to me). I do have a matching blue Sports fork in the bin also.

Would it be possible to fit fat winter tires on an old Sports in 650B? Reading around it doesn't look like wide 700c tires will fit. Would I be better off finding an old clunker with 700c wheels at the co-op and simply use that bike instead with the AW from the '72?

I have a good pair of 700c Schwalbe Winter tires but they're only 35c. I was just trying to use that frame instead of donating it to the co-op, but if so that is okay. I am sure I will find something of interest there to build the '72 AW into for a serious nasty winter's commute. I have decided not to put my new wheelset through our winters...

buy a beater
 

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Points to ponder, Ged 117...personally what with slush & salty roads, perhaps a "beater" would be my choice...saving your good stuff for the good days ahead.

Julius in Ohio
(where we had a 5 inch dump of the white stuff, last night)

I think you'll find that while the front might fit a 650B this will be problematic in the rear. I recently faced the winter beater thing down with the same idea, but ultimately went with an old hybrid/cross frame from the 90s I found at a bike shop for $10.00. It allowed me to run 700c 38mm studded snow tires. I used new Sturmey Archer hubs though- since SA makes both front and rear with drum brakes. This was to prevent water from freezing on the wheels and rendering the brakes useless.

What a cool idea, Salubrious! Have you any photos of the bike to share? I'm going to try and go for super cheap. Hopefully I can find something at the co-op that fits, and build my '72 AW into the rear wheel with new spokes. I'll fit kool-stop pads, which should help with braking in winter conditions. 40c studded tires are available so I'm going to try to fit those on an old cross or MTB. I'm going to spend more time at the co-op and see what comes my way. I really like those modern Sturmey hubs, though.

Cheap is important when making a winter beater. You certainly don't want to be rusting a vintage frame that has some pedigree.

The SA RXL-RD5 employs a twist grip shifter. I was able to set it up on the frame using the existing braze-ons so most of the shift cable is bare, from where the cable sleeve stop is brazed on just below the headset, all the way to the rear hub. This frame routes the cable beneath the bottom bracket. The front hub is the larger of the two drum brake hubs available. Braking power is adequate but not any greater than I would expect from side pull brakes. But they stop regardless of water or ice.

I was downtown tonight and caught the scent of derelict three-speed. Sure enough, I looked around and there it was: an old Superbe, complete by the looks of it, abandoned to the elements. It is currently locked to a pole along the sidewalk and visibly abandoned, partially covered with snow. I'm going to bring my adjustable down there tomorrow and grab the wheels and maybe the shifter depending on the age of the bike. The front has a dynohub and the rear has an IGH, probably an AW. I could use the parts and especially that front wheel if it is in decent clean-up shape.

Why not just bring a set of bolt cutters and get the whole thing if it's abandoned?

Dutch date, anyone?

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...084714002.html

Royce Union Savoy Mainliner - $150 (Richmond)

https://images.craigslist.org/00t0t_...VY_600x450.jpg

bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: cruiser
brake type: caliper
condition: good
frame size: 43 cm 17 inch
handlebar type: cruiser
make / manufacturer: Royce Union Savoy
model name / number: Mainliner
suspension: none (rigid)
wheel size: 26 in
Vintage classic Royce Union Savoy "Mainliner" 3 Speed His and Hers Dutch bikes. 1960 Sturmey Archer internal gear hubs. Custom odometer mounted on front wheels, original air pumps frame mounted. Baskets and bells. Adjustable kickstands. $150 each or #250 if you buy both. These bikes have been in family storage and need to be thoroughly cleaned.

I too have liberated parts from clearly abandoned bikes.....
Toronto is over run with them.
The city does a sweep every once in a while and removes them​​​​​​,
but I suspect that most end up in landfill.

Wishful thinking
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...990155cf11.jpg
Listed on kijij
seller is asking $1000.00
no low ball offers!

A Raleigh Fireball was my first new bike bought by my grandfather in 1970. I think he got it on sale because it was new but 1 or 2 years old. Same colours as the one shown except mine was a coaster brake and had weird sink-trap bend handlebars. Brings back memories but not $1000 worth - thanks for posting.

Just a courtesy incase someone is looking. I already posted on the Craigslist finds thread.

Check out sellers other ads.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2226931477091/

4 Vintage Raleigh Woman's Bikes
Lancaster, NY · 2 hours ago ·
(near Buffalo, NY)
$100
4 VINTAGE Womans Bikes for Restoration. $100 for all. Located in Lancaster. Call Charlie 863-7391

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...92&oe=5EFC4A4D

Got this the other night - why, I don't know because it doesn't fit me! Sure is cute tho! I posted in the appraisals already

Raleigh Superbe

Unsure of year but (original) owner believed either 1970 or 71. Still has both keys for the fork lock. Needs new tires as has been sitting since purchased. Owner advised she rode it about a mile and didn't like the Brooks seat (a fake leather one) and so she bought the seat cover pictured but she still didn't like the ride so she parked it until today. It has the hub dynamo and the headlamp but she couldn't recall if the light still worked.

I compared it to my Raleigh Sports and it seems a nicer bike. I might try and trade it out at the next C&V show in March.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fb11bef36b.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d3ea83a92c.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7e592d235.jpg

^^Change out those pedals! You'll be glad you did.

Why? Just asking.

They are really awful pedals. They have a poor bearing system and don't service out very well. And they;re heavy, not that anyone cares about that :)

That's an understatement. Something will give in the pedal, and the pedal will separate from the shaft. I had a pair on my Raleigh Sprite. I think they lasted 2 years and about 1500 miles. Kept them with the hopes of eventually repairing them, lost them in the fire.

Salubrious sykerocker

It's too wet and miserable to work in my unheated garage (yet). I have to get new tires as a priority as the old Michelins aren't too healthy. I tried riding it but I looked like a circus clown on a trick bike. If I have time before March 29 (winter Canadian Vintage Bicycle Show) I'll consider pedals.

Interesting question.
Are these pedals 1/2 inch or 9/16? If 9/16 I have some nice SP-150s but my only 1/2 inchers look really old and worn.

Edit: Saw ads on eBay for the same pedals as now mounted on mine and ads say 9/16.

Those pedals are particularly bad. It's one of the unfortunate cost cutting changes Raleigh made in the 70s. I've been using 9/16 MKS Touring pedals on any of the 3 speeds I put any real mileage on. But the wobble is more likely due to a bent crank than the pedal. If you swap the pedals and the wobble is still there, don't be discouraged, it's not a difficult repair. A bit time consuming, but not difficult.

Double plus good on the MKS pedals.
I have a couple of bikes with the "bad" pedals on them but the bikes are so complete and original that I've chosen to leave them on.
Any bikes that are ridden on a regular basis have the MKS rubber block pedals.