Is there a way to tighten a freewheel?
 

I'm not talking about tightening it on the wheel but tightening the freewheel itself. My Suntour
Winner freewheel has a very small amount of inward outward play holding the center ring causing a slight creaking
sound that vibrates into the frame.Can this play be tightened any way?

Besides the noise is there a functional issue? If not, then I suggest just flushing and lubing the freewheel. The creaking is likely from rough bearing surfaces (be they rust or pitting) and/or a lack of lube. Freewheels really like a slight freeplay, call it negative preload:). As long as it's not enough to cause auto shifting the freeplay, onto itself, is not usually an issue. However a slightly tight/too great a preload, can cause all kinds of coasting problems. Andy

It's not a functional issue ,I just don't like any noise at all lol. If I put an old Shimano freewheel on the noise goes away.
The is no play at all on the shimano freewheel

They were often adjusted with thin washers between the freewheel hub and body. Not a job for the faint of heart.

​​​​​​https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...o-heavy-3.html

SunTour "Perfect" and "Pro-Compe" freewheels used shims to adjust the bearing pre-load. The "Winner" freewheels used a cup-and-cone arrangement with a special wrench to set the pre-load:

^ Spot on! It's usually the red Park pin spanner that tightens the freewheel "cone." And it's almost always counter-clockwise threads. Yes, you may be able to adjust preload by changing the number of paper thin washers. However, I expect today's freewheels to lack these. If you do remove the cone, you MUST hold the body with the cogs on it down! If you lift it at all, you'll have about 60 tiny bearings come out of the other side and drop all over the floor! Yes, freewheel overhaul is not for the faint of heart. But if you have the proper tools and work area, you can do it.

PS I have (or had) that tool. Brings back some good old memories!

I never run vintage freewheels like that with non-ramped teeth anymore. With ramped teeth the shifting is 100x better, especially with friction shifters. Much less fumbling around with the shifter to get it in the perfect position. I use Sunrace freewheels and despite the fact that you can buy them for $10-15 they are very good quality. Shimano also makes them but I think theirs are ugly with a black big cog and huge logo.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18522038986...0aAp8lEALw_wcB

Remove the cogs, don’t open it up, soak in solvent and let dry. You might use compressed air.

After dry, drip in Phil’s Tenacious Oil until it quiets down.

It may, or may not, solve your problem completely, but it is the route I would go.

John

With the exception of the cogs removed from the core this is what I mentioned. Andy