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Originally Posted by bulgie
(Post 22587497)
Yeah I thought those nuts had a nub on the backside. It may be intended to fit on the Left side of the bike ('non-drive side" for those who have trouble with right-left)
I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1b816acb8e.jpg They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway... One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you. Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated. Mark B in Seattle |
Originally Posted by jo_lacs
(Post 22587409)
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I'm still out of town (coffeeneuring at Tosi's in St Joe, MI this morning). I will disassemble things when I'm back home (on the weekend) and take pix. My guess is this was how Miyata did their seatpost binders, so it was probably a stick part of some framebuilding supply place inn the early 80s. My understanding is the Univega Super Speciale frame was in reality a Miyata something-or-other. This thought is reinforced by the comment by SurferRosa about using JB Weld to solve the same issue on a Miyata 812.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b9a56bfbf0.jpg |
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2b115a6bbd.jpg |
I have a Miyata 1000 with that same seat post bolt. There is no slot in the frame or tab on the bolt/nut. The nut will not take an allen wrench either; so I put mine in a little plastic bag marked 'original Miyata seat post bolt" and used a quick release clamp that I had in the bin o'parts.
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
(Post 22588074)
... reinforced by the comment by SurferRosa about using JB Weld to solve the same issue on a Miyata 812.
https://i.imgur.com/AEExMuO.jpg :D |
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 22588324)
912!! 912!! How dare you discount my 912 (!) by 11 percent!!!
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 22588324)
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Originally Posted by stardognine
(Post 22588381)
11%??? Better check the batteries in your calculator.
(912-812)/912 = .109 |
Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 22592270)
What am I missing?
(912-812)/912 = .109 |
Originally Posted by stardognine
(Post 22592296)
Well nevermind then, if you're gonna use that newfangled math, like algebra or trigonometry or whatever ya got there.
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And it doesn't help anything, when I reply to threads, as if it were a competition, sometimes. 🙄 I know I should use some restraint, but apparently I don't have enough sense to actually do so. I'm gonna work on that. 🤐 |
Just make your own tool from some flat stock steel. But first clean that nut-slot up with a file. Put a handle on it, or hold it with pliers. Never use a tapered blade screwdriver on a straight walled screw slot. Use a hollow ground blade. Good Luck.
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Everyone is guessing about all of this c**p and how to make a bad idea work.... :troll:
My first question is what does the other side look like? Please post a picture of the NDS and the rear of the lug. A photo is worth more than a thousand guesses!!! verktyg retro grouch!!! ;50; Sorry for being so nasty... |
Originally Posted by brian3069
(Post 22588199)
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2b115a6bbd.jpg |
These kind of binder arrangements are actually the best imo, mainly because the ordinary kind of 8.8- or 12.9-grade "socket head cap screw" tends to be a lot stronger than the typical, shouldered and headed "Cr-MO" binder bolt. I've never broken one!
The nut should be on the left side. And the nut (if it doesn't press-fit into the lug socket on the left side) should be fixed in place with Loctite or other adhesive. Lastly, the seatpost slippage may be remedied by simply lubricating the bolt/nut threads, which will better convert bolt torque into clamping force, while lessening the unwanted turning force on the nut in the lug socket (so the bolt can draw up tight instead of the nut just spinning in it's bore). |
I'm back from Michigan and starting to catch up on email. I spent a bit of time with the Univega this afternoon. As far as I can tell, the "ports" on the left and right side of the binder assembly are identical. Switching left-to-right won't improve things by itself. The 26.8 seatpost is a perfect fit (nice parallel slot). It doesn't slip when I can get the bolt & nut snugged up. I searched through my box of odd small wrenches and found one to modify. Aside from too much underbiking which wrecked a nice tubular, I've solved the problems with the Univega
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...769fb2ecc6.jpg Seatpost slot detail https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ceb38d7c8f.jpg Nut detail https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b0cdc60c71.jpg Modified "wrench" |
You went all the ways to Michigan just for coffee, but refused to buy a new binder bolt? 🤔😁😉
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The same type of nut was used on handsaws in the 19th century and various other old machinery. Generally known as "Split nuts" Thinking about it, most binder bolts also resemble the type of saw nut that replaced split nuts starting around 1870ish. The usual answer for old tool retrogrouch equivlents is to get a wide blade screwdriver and fie or hack saw a slot for the bolt. Alternatively, spend years digging through old tool boxes at flea markers and tag sales until you find a century old one. I've done both, but the former is much quicker.
Split nut saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-1157.../dp/B07CJ8SGJV saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screw...79480386&psc=1 |
Originally Posted by brian3069
(Post 22588199)
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2b115a6bbd.jpg |
Originally Posted by dweenk
(Post 22596198)
Would the diameter of the bolt and nut be about 13mm?
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I've got one like that too. I don't have a tool for it, I hold a small screwdriver in one of the notches while I tighten the screw.
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Originally Posted by sloar
(Post 22586761)
almost looks like the back part of a chainring bolt, maybe try a chainring wrench
I would flip the bolt just for grins originally the bolt faced the drive side lube the bolt not the slotted nut. with the bolt away from the bike thread the bolt and nut together and check for fair threading and bolt straightness. I am not fond of this design. I would consider a longer bolt, bushing and a nylock nut that you can get some purchase on. |
Originally Posted by smontanaro
(Post 22586780)
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail. :)
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