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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

gster 04-07-20 07:36 PM


Originally Posted by JoshuaTSR (Post 21406124)
Ok guys what's the correct tire size? My rear tire is a uniroyal straight side that says 26x1 3/8 but it also says fits EA-1 and schwinn s-6 times while my front tire is a schwinn breeze sports touring 26x1 1/4.

If I can do the 1 3/8's then I'll just grab some cheap Walmart tires just so I can ride. What do you think?

26 x 1 3/8 will not fit an EA1 Rim.
You want to order the Schwinn specific tires they're the only ones that fit and are reasonably priced.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kenda-Schwinn-...6309555&sr=8-8
It's a somewhat obsolete tire size but these fit EA1 rims nicely.
Those rims indicate yours was probably a Club Bike

gster 04-07-20 07:46 PM

Clubman's correct, he usually is.
The chain ring has been swapped out at some point in the last 72 years...
Your bike would make a good Scorcher.
Add some inverted low bars , or upright bars for a Semi Scorcher.

jackbombay 04-07-20 08:48 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21406053)
Does anyone know how easy it is to just grease the bearings & not overhaul the whole hub? Shifting is smooth & accurate.

Its not bad, if you clamp one end of the axle in a bench vice you can clean and repack the top end, then flip it over and do the other side. There are 2 sets of bearing to clean and regrease on the drive side as the piece driven by the cog spins at different rates than the hub shell.

Remove the cog to start and looses the non drive side lock nut and conea half turn or so.

I start with the drive side sticking up, remove the locknut, then the locking washer that keeps the cone from rotating, then remove the cone, there is a spring that will extend out of the hub as you unscrew the cone, that can stay on the axle. With the cone off you can pull the driver out, and you'll see a bunch of 1/8" (I think) bearings that the driver spins on there are dust shields on the axle bearing and the driver bearings that can be pried off with a medium sized flat blade screwdriver, the larger diameter dust shield for the driver bearings should be pried off arond the outside edge, not by rying across the whole things as that tends to bend them.

Clean both cup and cones regrease and reassemble, BUT when you reassemble the axle bearing should be screwed down hand tight, then backed off 1/4 turn then the cone lock washer gets installed, then instal/tighten the lock nut, you are now done on the drive side.

Flip the wheel and remove the locknut and cone from the non drive side, the dust shield will pry off like the drive side, clean and regrease then reinstall the cone and lock nut, NOTE: the hub adjustment is atypical, the hub should be the tiniest bit loose when adjusted correctly.

That should do it.

thorstein 04-07-20 09:22 PM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21406495)
Its not bad, if you clamp one end of the axle in a bench vice you can clean and repack the top end, then flip it over and do the other side.
...
That should do it.

Thanks for the detailed response. Now I'll have to get up the courage to dig in! Messing with these internal hubs make me nervous!

jackbombay 04-07-20 09:28 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21406551)
Thanks for the detailed response. Now I'll have to get up the courage to dig in! Messing with these internal bubs make me nervous!

For anything inside the hub to move/come apart you have to unscrew the planetary "cassette" as a unit from the drive side of the hub, just regreasing bearings is pretty straightforward :-)

Road Fan 04-08-20 04:15 AM


Originally Posted by JoshuaTSR (Post 21403908)
I finally pumped some air into my old tires on my 1948 Humber Sports and did a quick test ride since the tires are dry rotted and the brakes are hard as rocks so I disconnected them. Bike rode ok but I think that it's not for me. I really like my banana seat ride so I'll be posting up my ride for sale. The front dyno works and so do the headlight and taillight. Has a brooks saddle and the 3 speed needs some work but it kind of works. Would asking $300 be too much? I'll try to take some pics for you guys but she has ape hanger handlebars from Raleigh I think.

Also I'm just trying to post more so I can do PM's with folks.

Iíll be eager to see your pics, so keep posting!

clubman 04-08-20 05:01 AM


Originally Posted by JoshuaTSR (Post 21406082)
No I didn't add it. Most of these bikes have a chain guard that covers everything so you don't see it. I like the way it looks, like people holding hands in peace.

Yes it's a Humber chainring, those are usually referred to dancing people. Regarding price, it depends on your market. An incomplete bike certainly won't get $300 anywhere. The lack of original chainring doesn't help either. As gster suggests, those are tough tires to find. The 26 x 1 3/8 - EA1 -S6 is a US sizing and you'll have to find the Schwinn specific tires I think. There were a few Dunlops that had the same markings that you refer to but they're not common. You want a 597 mm bead, NOT a 590.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eee1a788aa.png

gster 04-08-20 07:23 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21406800)
Yes it's a Humber chainring, those are usually referred to dancing people. Regarding price, it depends on your market. An incomplete bike certainly won't get $300 anywhere. The lack of original chainring doesn't help either. As gster suggests, those are tough tires to find. The 26 x 1 3/8 - EA1 -S6 is a US sizing and you'll have to find the Schwinn specific tires I think. There were a few Dunlops that had the same markings that you refer to but they're not common. You want a 597 mm bead, NOT a 590.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eee1a788aa.png

Here's my 1955 Humber Sports Club Bike fitted with those S-6 tires or K23 (Kenda)
It has the maypole chainring.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...90275d85fe.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f02b3c5669.jpg
here's Clubman's sizing chart.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e862e7b0f1.jpg

thorstein 04-08-20 08:16 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21406989)
Here's my 1955 Humber Sports Club Bike fitted with those S-6 tires or K23 (Kenda)
It has the maypole chainring.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...90275d85fe.jpg

here's Clubman's sizing chart.

That is a nice looking bike! Between the color, the chain ring, long chain stays, and the double fork blades - wow! Looks like it would be a fun ride!

gster 04-08-20 08:25 AM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21407070)
That is a nice looking bike! Between the color, the chain ring, long chain stays, and the double fork blades - wow! Looks like it would be a fun ride!

Thanks. This photo is before the new tires were fitted.
Truth is , I can't really ride a bike with drop bars.
I need to sit up reasonably straight....

thorstein 04-08-20 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21407098)
Thanks. This photo is before the new tires were fitted.
Truth is , I can't really ride a bike with drop bars.
I need to sit up reasonably straight....

I bet it would look good and ride well with some Northroad bars or other similar riser bar with some sweep.

gster 04-08-20 09:50 AM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21407210)
I bet it would look good and ride well with some Northroad bars or other similar riser bar with some sweep.

That was my original plan when I got it but it's such an interesting piece of history that I decided it
should remain as original as possible
As found
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...04a1b309e2.jpg
These Club bikes are really quite interesting and were a step above the regular 3 speeds of the day.
The EA1 rims suggest yours was originally a Club.

Salubrious 04-08-20 11:50 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21407282)
That was my original plan when I got it but it's such an interesting piece of history that I decided it
should remain as original as possible
As found

I wouldn't worry about it so much- as you found it was not original. The Humber Sports is a gas-pipe frame; came stock with North Road bend handlebars and a Brooks leather saddle. Someone added the dropped bars and seat.

gster 04-08-20 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21407532)
I wouldn't worry about it so much- as you found it was not original. The Humber Sports is a gas-pipe frame; came stock with North Road bend handlebars and a Brooks leather saddle. Someone added the dropped bars and seat.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2b0818b6e4.jpg

Salubrious 04-08-20 12:17 PM

Yup!

jackbombay 04-08-20 01:40 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21407282)
That was my original plan when I got it but it's such an interesting piece of history that I decided it
should remain as original as possible
As found
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...04a1b309e2.jpg

What is the brand on the speedometer? Do you still have it?

gster 04-08-20 01:44 PM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21407719)
What is the brand on the speedometer? Do you still have it?

Might have been a NORCO and I think it went out to the curb with a bunch of other stuff....

gster 04-08-20 01:45 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21407588)
Yup!

Nice sticker though....

BigChief 04-08-20 06:53 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21407728)
Nice sticker though....

Am I remembering correctly? Didn't we find this model in a Humber catalog in club trim with drop bars and celluloid mudguards?

gster 04-08-20 07:19 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21408280)
Am I remembering correctly? Didn't we find this model in a Humber catalog in club trim with drop bars and celluloid mudguards?

me too, but that all seems like a long time ago.......

gster 04-09-20 10:50 AM


Originally Posted by brianhamp (Post 21408552)
I serviced my first Sturmey Archer ASC 3 speed Fixed gear hub today. And I also found myself a AW 3 speed dated 1962. I had posted awhile ago about how I never see many with a 62 date. I had to buy 5 other hubs that came with it but I dont mind, you can never have enough spares ...Right?
The ASC is dated 50-5 .

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...50a50861a7.jpg
ASC
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...69f5e01299.jpg
ASC
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a64dcf91c1.jpg
1962 AW

You have a good point re: 62 hubs.
There was a recession in the early 60's and perhaps Raleigh had a big stockpile of hubs they needed
to get through....
Yes, always good to have spares....
You could spend days and $$ trying to track down one little pawl spring to
finish a project.

jackbombay 04-09-20 10:55 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21409187)
You could spend days and $$ trying to track down one little pawl spring to
finish a project.

I recently had a pawl spring fly out of an otherwise functioning complete hub, D'oh!!!

Anyone have one they want to sell?

gster 04-09-20 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21409197)
I recently had a pawl spring fly out of an otherwise functioning complete hub, D'oh!!!

Anyone have one they want to sell?

Somewhere back in this thread, Big Chief had a tutorial
on making your own springs from guitar strings.....
I tried making one out of a staple years ago...
Bad idea as it rusted very quickly and messed things up.

Ged117 04-09-20 03:54 PM

I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. It is the 23" size, but I'm 6'2" or 6'3"ish and mostly legs. The seatpost is too short, and the handlebar stem is way too short. I can't ride it anymore unless I can find a longer post and a longer stem. I'd really like to enjoy this bike and put it in the regular ride and (one day...) commute rotation without sore knees. Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

Thanks all.

jackbombay 04-09-20 08:22 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21409208)
Somewhere back in this thread, Big Chief had a tutorial
on making your own springs from guitar strings.....
I tried making one out of a staple years ago...
Bad idea as it rusted very quickly and messed things up.

While I'm sure I could make that happen, I think I'm too neurotic to have a slight imbalance in spring pressure between the pawls :-P

JaccoW 04-10-20 01:50 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21409857)
I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. [...] Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

If these fit a 25.4mm seatpost you could look for this Kalloy 400mm x 25.4mm seatpost or this stainless steel 350mm x 25.4 candle type.
I have used the first one to test ride a 57cm frame where I usually need 63cm+. :P

FBOATSB 04-10-20 05:52 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21409857)
I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. It is the 23" size, but I'm 6'2" or 6'3"ish and mostly legs. The seatpost is too short, and the handlebar stem is way too short. I can't ride it anymore unless I can find a longer post and a longer stem. I'd really like to enjoy this bike and put it in the regular ride and (one day...) commute rotation without sore knees. Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

Thanks all.


Originally Posted by JaccoW (Post 21410549)
If these fit a 25.4mm seatpost you could look for this Kalloy 400mm x 25.4mm seatpost or this stainless steel 350mm x 25.4 candle type.
I have used the first one to test ride a 57cm frame where I usually need 63cm+. :P

I have done this as well. For your quill stem, you can use a simple extender, enabling you to keep your original stem.https://www.modernbike.com/sunlite-steerer-extenders

gster 04-10-20 07:50 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21409857)
I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. It is the 23" size, but I'm 6'2" or 6'3"ish and mostly legs. The seatpost is too short, and the handlebar stem is way too short. I can't ride it anymore unless I can find a longer post and a longer stem. I'd really like to enjoy this bike and put it in the regular ride and (one day...) commute rotation without sore knees. Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

Thanks all.

Canadian Tire used to sell the seat posts, but that was a few years ago.

gster 04-11-20 06:55 AM

OT
This is why you should never use the name "Clint" in a comic book......
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bcdd327022.jpg

mirfi 04-11-20 08:10 AM

Ged117,

If you have a Metal Superstore around, they can fix you up with a longer post.

Here's something I wrote up when I did the longer seatpost for my Vilano Urbana (See thread for detail) Common seat post sizes

27.2 mm = 1.07inch = 1 1/16
28.6 mm = 1.125984 = 1 1/8
30.4 mm = 1.19685 = 1 13/64
31.8 mm = 1.252 = 1 1/4
33.9 mm = 1.335inch = 1 21/64 (close to 1 5/16)


Seat posts I have

Hummer 27.2
Raleigh 20 28.6 15inch - 380
Nano 29.2
Downtube 30.4 18inch - 450
Urbana 31.8 21inch – 550 - Shimmed
Urbana 33.9 shimmed to 31.8

Available pipe

I.D. (inside diameter)
1.250 AL 6061 – SCH 40 PIPE

Stainless Steel 316/316L Pipe
0.75″ NOMINAL (1.05″ OD X 0.113″ WALL X 0.82″ ID)

Hot rolled steel
1.250 ST STEEL SCH 80 PIPE



Available Tube


1.250 X 0.125 (SEAMLESS) AL 6061T6 TUBE ROUND
1.500 X 0.125 AL 6061T6 TUBE ROUND **** 1.25 i.d ? sleeve for 31.8????
1.500 X 0.125 (SEAMLESS) AL 6061T6 TUBE ROUND
1.500 X 0.125 AL 6063T5 TUBE ROUND

Common shim sizes

Shim sizes
33.9 - 27.2
33.9 - 31.8



Miscellaneous lengths

600 = 24inch
640 = 25 ThorUSA LOOONG standard $38
Raleigh Tube 28.6(1.126, 1-1/8) fits inside Urbana Tube 31.8(1.252, 1-1/4), that means the Urbana tube wall is 1/16, (.06) inch thick or 16 gauge


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