Low gravity Gundle anybody??
 

This is the last Gundle made just before LG died in 1975..... A Model T!!
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...%20GundleF.jpg
This was only ever ridden by his grandchildren..... How cool to have a grand-dad like that??

This is historic stuff if you ask me: )

I bought a very similar machine at auction on a whim, because it looked cheap!
Did my research on this 'new machine' & ended up meeting Leonard Gundles daughter (70ish at the time) & had the opportunity to take these pics.
The last one made, & this is the pic of him with this machine on the day he retired even! The same bike pictured below:
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Bicycle.jpg

This is the one I bought. Which started it all for me.
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...ebay%20006.jpg

How cool?

Tried to PM you but on 46 & needed 50! Great. (Not) I show it anyway...
 

I got a newish pair of these Raleigh cables with adjusters built in, if this is what you looking for. They are a one piece unit. Cables & adjusters combined.
I look for shipping costs only for these.

I try to send you genuine PM, but am prevented by the Bikeforums site 'RULES'. Pretty SAD if you ask me.
So I show the PM here.

I need 50, instead of my current 45/46 writings in order to PM you. According to BF Rules...
I say FXcX you Bikeforums admins for that interference in proper, normal, comms between members. It is not needed or necessary.

Check me if you interested anyway. I'm in UK, Gloucester, not your side of the pond: )
Always willing to help genuine enthusiasts, wherever you happen to be.
(Despite the site rules which prevent my PM contacts currently.)

I'll be very reluctant to return to this thread on this site....

Stay cool,
John.

As long as the rims are not wet, they stop quite well- much more powerful than sidepulls of the day.

Time to replace the fulcrum sleeve

original plastic has crumbled. But now I have the all steel sleeve to last forever!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=495987

Thanks to Jon, Gentleman Cyclist.

That reminds me... I could use a Sturmey-Archer AW shifter cable. I know they make those adjustable ones now, but I think they look pretty dang ugly. Are the old style ones still readily available? Looking at my now defunct cable, it seems the adjustability was a one-time-thing. You cut the cable at the shifter, then crimp on a little aluminium brake cable tidy-upper (what are they called?)...

I do see this on eBay:

NOS PUCH/Sturmey Archer 3 spd shifter cable/ girls 24" bikes vintage bicycles

which reads, in part: This part will interchange with Schwinn 9710,Schwinn 42-931,possibly others.The fitment is for 24" Girl's model 3 Speed Bicycles with Sturmey-Archer system/ Any idea how I extrapolate from that somewhat meaningless size to what I've got? (I assume I can just measure mine and ask the seller if his is long enough.)

Thx...

I haven't got that far in looking for original parts but it has crossed my mind. Good luck with your hunt.

let us know what you find out.

If you're lucky there are NOS cables out there but they tend to be a bit pricey
once you factor in the shipping. The 24" cable is too short for a full size bike.

I buy the new ones and trim the housing to fit, they're about $8.00 and most bike shops
should stock them.

You can use one of the new ones. You'll need something like a very small I.D. brass tubing or the like. Cut the cable to the right length, run it through the adjuster sleeve and then crimp the bit of brass tubing in place. If you did it right you are good to go.

I couldn't speak to the "side-pulls of the day" but I do know that I would be loath to ride anything heavier than my 1980 Tourist with the same rod brakes that it has. Not that I'd pass up the chance to try one of these delivery bikes were I to come across one of course. :roflmao2:

When my sports needed a new cable I did not like the look of the new style adjustable cable. I did some searching and found this thread on this site: Help! - I don't want an UGLY Sturmey Archer cable !-!

I used the leaders bought from Wal-Mart and a replacement SA cable from my LBS. It was easy, looks original and has been working for 3+ years. I did not use the heat shrink on the cable; I give it a wipe with an oily rag when ever I clean my bike which gets cleaned with an oily rag. I also replaced the plastic pulley with the metal pulley from the Gentleman Cyclist at the same time.

Shimano makes a very serviceable metal pulley and clamp. It costs more than GC's, though.

I just make them with shifter cable and brake housing. Bit a brass tubing and some solder.

I don't use the pinch bolt adapters for my 3 speeds either. Modern SA trigger shifter cable comes with one end silver soldered on, which will work for either the shifter or the barrel adjuster. The other end is plain for use with the pinch bolt adapter. I figure the length of cable needed. You want to be close, +- a half inch or so. Then, I use the original barrel adjuster and silver solder a 3/32" brass tube onto the plain end. I have found that regular 60/40 solder isn't strong enough and crimping the brass isn't strong enough. A few weeks ago, I tried an idea I got here from Velocivixen. It was simply gluing the end on with JB Weld. It seems to be holding fine, but I can't say about the long term. If you want to be sure, silver solder or braze the end on. After you have the end attached, use a fine file to smooth it up to make sure the barrel adjuster spins freely with it inside. Who needs ugly pinch bolts?
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=496047http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=496048

I have just had dealings with GC and was well pleased. Got a new sleeve for my shift cable. As far as cost is concerned, it helps a great organization and keeps someone supplying good 3 speed parts.

I am SO excited. Mr. VV ordered a set of Raleigh Twenty Decals from VeloCals for Christmas. They just arrived today, so he placed them in a white envelope with a red bow on it with "Vintage Vixen" written on the outside. He put it on my work bench and left a small work light on, so he knew I'd see it.


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1685/...148ffb22_z.jpgRaleigh Twenty Decal Set by velocivixen, on Flickr

Wow! They look like ALPS printed varnish transfers. Or are they reverse printed waterslides colored in by hand? Are they applied with a sticky varnish or glue size or just water? I've been knocking myself out trying to find a way to make waterslide decals look like the original varnish transfers.

I'm pretty sure they're not water slide. They're high gloss UV laminate for post painting. Here is the link to their page which shows the 3 options. There are also color options. I had my R20 powder coated :thumb: n early November & it's looked so bare - I think it's having an "identity crisis".

Raleigh Twenty (sku 319) - VeloCals


They provide detailed instructions - one for a "dry" application and one for a "wet" (recommended) application.

Not it sure if temperature of the metal will make a difference, so I will bring the bike into the house & let it warm up for a day or two. It's been in the 20's at night lately and my bikes live in the garage. Plus, it's an excuse to bring a bike into the house.

That's going to look great. From what I know, the wet method is best for applying vinyl to non-porous surfaces.Makes it easier to squeegee out air pockets. Looking forward to seeing it finished. You're right. Looks bare without the graphics.

Wow...I guess I've never really looked too closely at VeloCals. They have some neat stuff. I wondered how I was going to finish off my Sports, not wanting to do waterslide decals on top of powdercoat.

There are included tiny Raleigh Heron decals, I believe, for each fork blade. I have not seen any R20's with the heron on fork blades. My R20 is a 1971, and these decals are supposed to be 1970. I could put them on the forks, but wouldn't look exactly correct. Of course I've already modified the bike, and it's obviously not original, so maybe those little decals on the fork legs wouldn't be too bad.

^^ Do it, they look cool !

I laced some '78 hubs (AW and dynohub) to some CR18 alloy rims using new Sapim stainless steel spokes for my 1978 Raleigh Superbe. I went three cross everywhere. The front high flange might have been better suited for 2 cross due to nipple angle but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. I had originally laced the hubs to new CR18 rims but I reused the old galvanized spokes. I used two brass spoke washers under each spoke head as the flanges are narrower than alloy flanges.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psqormj17w.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psbu78of6a.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4t9hpkm2.jpg

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...pssex3zglq.jpg

I also purchased this little oiler can. I've never used one before but I figure it would look and work nicely to put 30W oil in the AW hubs that I seem to be amassing.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psscmkbtrf.jpg

Beautiful, classic bike! I see you have it set up with a 22t cog and MKS Sylvans. Nice. Where did you get your spokes? And what gauge? I'm planning on using CR-18s on my Rudge project. It's been a good 25 years since I've laced up wheels and things have changed a lot. Very confusing to me. There's a million different new types to sort through and no such thing anymore as buying regular spokes for my 26" Sports like I did last time.

[MENTION=355580]Velocivixen[/MENTION] I think it's good you have vinyl graphics rather than waterslide. I've been experimenting. Waterslides may look good on white or very light colored frames, but look very faded on dark colors. On black, forget it, almost invisible. It will look a bit more bold than the old fashioned varnish transfers. More like the graphics on modern bikes, but that's a good thing in a way. The original Raleigh graphics were a bit too subtle on dark colors. I would use the little logos on the forks. I think they would look nice.