What kind of nipples should I get?
 

Got 2mm (on the thread end) DT Swiss Alpine III spokes to go on a Sun Rhyno Lite rim with spoke eyelets. Is there a particular kind of nipple I should look for with this kind of rim?

Thanks!

brass seems to be the better option.
giggity

Brass. Always.

Another vote for brass. I like the Sapim SecureLock nipples but the DT Swiss ProLocks would probably also work.

Those spokes and that rim sounds like it should be a brass nipple build.

Brass 100%

Six posts so far, and nothing salty.


I'm disappointed.

Alloy. BUT..... only if (1) you are sure that they were built by a quality builder and (2) you are fairly adept yourself at truing wheels and won't do anything stupid if you need to tweak them. But brass is a common sense, practical answer that you can't go wrong with.

Pierced, with a modest 1 cm hoop attached. Other option is studded.

One of my nipples cracked due to the salty content of the sealant. Aluminium nipples corrode.

Thank you for reminding me to keep everyone abreast of the situation.

Any particular reason you mention the Sapims first rather than the DT Swiss?

Have you already bought the spokes? Then some 12mm brass nipples.

For an ultra-paranoid build there are Pillar DSN (double square) nipples, they require a bit longer spokes, but the threads are made so that the spoke goes further in: https://www.pillarspoke.com/external-nipple
This is supposed to reduce nipple breakage.

Have the spokes.

Sapim Polyax seem alright.
But the last set of Rhynolite XL I built with Alpine III I just used standard DT Swiss Nipples, but you could use the brass Pro nipples, they have a similar round head to the Polyax.

Do the future owner of the wheel a favor. Skip the aluminum and go straight to brass. He or she will thank you (one day).

My personal favorites are Wheel Fanatyk splined. Lots of colors like aluminum but without the problems that square aluminum can have. Square brass is okay but only if you want silver or black, although black may be more difficult to get.

The other advantage of using splined spoke nipples is that they don’t slip while building. Square spoke wrenches are prone to slippage especially at higher tensions. Since splines nipples have more point of engagement, they are easier to turn at high tension. If you insist on square nipples, in either brass or aluminum, do your self a favor and get a Park SW-42 spoke wrench. It doesn’t have as many engagement points as splined nipples do but they are better then the more open spoke wrenches.

Get DT Swiss Prolock, which are brass. They don't need any magic goofball prep. And will NEVER unravel, very important.
I have these on all 5 of my DIY builds on my custom heavyweight tour bike and an old CCM, all with Dyad rims.
IMO they soften the stresses. My front wheel is a SA XL-FDD dyno drum with 27,000 miles. Good as new after 2 tours on a 120 lb bike.

Because I use Sapim on most of my wheel builds and find to to be a really quality product and one of my favorite wheel builders who actually did my touring bike wheels fully endorses Sapim and those wheels have been flawless.

Rosey & Pink

Not necessary if the spoke ends penetrate the inner wall for about 2mm.

=8-|

Exactly....alloy nipples seize up, no matter how much anti-seize or grease is used. Let 'em sit long enough in between trues...they'll sieze up.

Stick with brass.

=8-|

Aluminum nipples on one nice set of road wheels that never sees rain or snow... that's an acceptable risk.
Otherwise brass.

I'm sorry, but I couldn't help myself.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3a50db55_c.jpg

Carbon Kevlar nipples?

=8-|

And putting aluminium nipples on Alpine III spokes with Rhynolite Rims is kind of like putting alloy rims on a tractor. Yeah, it'll save weight, but what's the point?