To Dweenk, that's the bike i'm working on although that one is in better shape.

1st pic. I think the rims will clean up very well. Only broke 2 spokes and 4 nuts, not bad for 65 year old rims.

next pics. So I thought, why not take apart the 49 rims. I view 4 utube videos on how to take apart a S/A aw hub none of them like this:

Attachment 584810

Attachment 584811

Attachment 584812

Attachment 584813

Attachment 584814
once again sorry for the flip phone images

Cable end

Thanks for the explain!

Hmmm, your photo only half loaded. Are you talking about these?
Attachment 584819
Oh...I see it now. Never seen that one before. Must be from before my time

# 14302 post has the cable ends I have used. If anyone has the brakes I showed, would those be the ones to use. When I tried the others most would not fit where the ends go.

Oh sorry, I see now. I missed the picture of the brake levers. I have a pair of levers just like those in my box of salvaged bike stuff. I just checked them with a modern cable and I think regular barrel shaped brake cable ends would work OK in these.

Yeah, you have the old style AW hub with the cog threaded on the driver. This one also has the two flats to remove the rest of the hub from the shell instead of the notches which means you'll need a spanner wide enough to fit and can't use a simple punch. You even have all of the original gun barrel blue nuts and washers. Very nice! Thanks for the update.

On the left side (?) is it righty tighty or righty loosey? Which way is it threaded? The rest is apart. The shifter is going to need work. The four stops are H, N, L, and B. I thought that it was a 3 but it's a B.

Attachment 584879

Attachment 584880

Attachment 584881

Attachment 584882

Oh, you've got it apart. All done then. It looks like it will clean up nicely. Now you should be able to pry the caps off the wheel bearings with a screwdriver. There's one on the drive side driver and one on the other side in the hub shell. Nice work! The only thing that looks odd to me is the the clutch spring is usually wound so the top coil is square. I guess it doesn't matter, but it looks like it might not be an original part.

Thanks. I might try one of the modern cables again. Right now I will run the Rudge with these. I like the brass ring that cradles the lead end. The modern ends I tried were too big for the cable slot.

Great! This is just the shifter you want for your restoration. Looks to be in good shape too. When they first came out with the redesigned trigger, they planned on only one for both 3 and 4 speed hubs. Didn't last long. They went back to dedicated shifters. Don't know why. Maybe they didn't work well on 4 speeds, I don't know, but they work fine on 3 speed AW hubs. Not sure what B stands for. Bottom maybe? I know N is for "normal" Odd isn't it? N on a shifter always stood for neutral in my book. It's just another Raleigh quirk.
here's an ad for the new shifter in Dec. 1949

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/...dc13557e_b.jpg1949 sa ad by Billy Bones, on Flickr

The steel ones are bit tricky to find. The D is a very nice pedal though!

That stem is very similar to the one on my 1935 Sports...

So the part that is still left on the hub, before I breakout the big hammer, does it thread left or right?

The only thing I see left to take apart in the photos are the wheel bearing retainer caps. But, this hub is older than the ones I'm familiar with. A person that would know better than me is the post right above. @Salubrious He has a 1935 Sports and just came through with the answer to a question I had about a stem. No AW hub I've ever worked on had any LH threads.

Thanks! This stem may be older than what ever frame I come up with for my project, but I'll use it anyway. I like it :innocent:

Leave it there. This is the 'Left hand Ball cup' you're talking about? Think of it as the fixed cup on your bottom bracket, only more so :) Leave it there, clean it in place.
I think they can be removed, but they are really easy to clean leaving them in place. I haven't read or heard of anyone removing them, even for a complete strip-down clean & re-build.
I enjoy pulling these hubs apart and re-building them.

Thanks: That seems like the way to go. The hub is in VG shape and a wash and buff ought to do it.

This is DL1 in MPLS CL are asking $100 https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...281396445.html
This one is just a couple miles from the house.

https://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_...yA_600x450.jpg

Wow

Haven't had quite as much time w/ the new '51 as I'd like, but I have ticked several little things off my "to-do" list and she's riding very nicely!!!

http://www.delaraspelle.com/misc_pix..._updates-a.jpg

http://www.delaraspelle.com/misc_pix..._updates-b.jpg

Marfield brand? This one looks like a very clean mid to late 60's Raleigh product in Chicago area.

https://offerup.com/item/detail/362438262/?ref=Search

Attachment 584981

This is a "lever and swivel link" system. Rather than having the cable end rest in the lever itself, the lever is riveted to a swiveling link with a hole and slot in it to house the cable end. The levers you show are usually from the 1960s when we find them in the US now. For some reason, they were popular in the 1960s for lower-end road bikes. But the lever and link system is much older and goes back to at least the 1940s or earlier.

Schwinn used the lever and swivel link system, which I believe they partially copied from British designs.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9huVQ0SB9...916_164504.jpg

The levers that you show I also have a pair of on a 1941 New World. They resemble the much more expensive Schwinn levers and use the same general system, at least enough for purposes of rehabilitating the New World. For $20 I was able to buy levers that look enough like Schwinn levers for this project. A pair of original Schwinn levers is easily $100+.

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sl8x4mOLy...007_171229.jpg

These post-war English-made lever and swivel parts seem to like the basic, generic "mushroom" ended cables. I actually use the generic "Bell Pit Crew" cables on my Schwinn and English levers of this design.

I've also seen the levers you show on Schwinn Varsity and Continental "touring" configuration bikes from the 1960s.

1953 Eaton Commander 3 Speed
 

An interesting bike for sale here in Toronto.
A 1953 Eatons Commander. Built by Hercules with a 3 speed Herc-u-matic hub and shifter.
Priced at $60.00.
Attachment 585017

Attachment 585018

Attachment 585019

Attachment 585020

Nice one and thanks. I've always wondered who built my wife's Commander roadster and now I know.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LE...=w1217-h912-no

They appear to have the same chainguard.