The chain case for the 26 inch Sports-style frame was different from the 28 inch or DL-1 chain case. The DL-1 case was designed with removable seat stays in mind because the DL-1 seat stays can be unbolted.

The Dawn/Sports style chain case was designed with fixed/brazed seat stays in mind, and slipped over those stationary seat stays. If you need to buy a chain case, make sure you get the one that suits your frame.

You asked :):
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf7b8bb31.jpg

Good Deal
 

Here's a bike on Toronto Kijiji. Raleigh Laurentian. Price, FREE!
It's in the east end of the city so I'll pass but looks to be the basis of a good project.

If that Raleigh Laurentian was a 23in I would be begging you to try and facilitate it for me.

That's not so nice! :innocent:

Spent 2 hours pulling the 52 apart. A real mess. Salient points. It has a braze on pulley mount even though it used a band clamp. First time I've actually seen a bolt in the full chainguard mount. CPSC should have implemented the Raleigh wheel retention system if any. I like it. Everything came apart (except fixed cup of course) but it all needs a good bath in OA. The rims may not be salvageable. Oh yes, under artificial basement light, it really looks green, in the daylight it's sea-blue. I've had two Humbers that never had this hue.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VW...7=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kb...r=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kH...V=w384-h681-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xS...=w1001-h563-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7x...m=w384-h681-no

My 1960 Superbe has that same recess on the front forks. The front wheel has been swapped out at some point and
doesn't locate properly. I suspect that there's a special nut required with a male spigot that should be used. Anyone have any info?

The recessed fork was dropped at some point in the 1960s. I have a '58 with the recessed fork and original wheel with original front nuts. The correct front nuts for that are shouldered rather than plain. The shoulder slips into drop-out and the nut itself goes into the recess. One of clubman's photos shows the shouldered nuts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7x...m=w384-h681-no

I need to find a pair of those. I've adapted one of the inner sleeved nuts for the time being to hold the wheel in place. Otherwise it slips out of alignment.

[QUOTE=SirMike1983;19298329]The recessed fork was dropped at some point in the 1960s. I have a '58 with the recessed fork and original wheel with original front nuts. The correct front nuts for that are shouldered rather than plain. The shoulder slips into drop-out and the nut itself goes into the recess. One of clubman's photos shows the shouldered nuts.

gster, I'm quite sure I have a pair of those nuts. I had a look but my shop is a mess but if I find them I'll let you know. In addition to Mikes info, an important part of the retention is the large washers that also slip over the shoulder. The depth of these washers is critical to a tight fit.

Question for y'all. There's another shouldered front axle setup where the lip/shoulder is on the cone and the recess is on the inside of the forks. When was that in use?

[QUOTE=clubman;19298415]I would certainly appreciate that and could offer something in trade. Most of my bikes have the inner recess.

I don't usually post CL ads here, but this later model 23" Sports in white for $100 seems like a good find:

Raleigh bicycle

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/584/31...d34aba09_c.jpg00I0I_5NMYoVBZGNP_1200x900

This is an unusually good find. I've been scanning New England CL for months. Figures that this would show up the minute I go to Florida. Oh well, thats life.

I brought the roadster with me to southern Florida instead of my Sprite this year. This bike just works for me somehow. Very fun on the unpaved, hilly roads up north, but geared a bit low for the flat paved roads here. My Sports bikes all have the earlier 48T chainwheels. This 72 roadster has a 46T, so it's 46x22. If I lived here I'd use a 19T or 20T cog. I do miss the medium ratio spread of the S5, but I'm still having fun with my latest project.
Attachment 548266

Seems to be a late 50s and into 1960s thing.

My Humber Sports are early 50s and not set up that way. My '62 Raleigh is. My '72 Superbe is not and its a lot harder to remove the wheel.

Thanks, gotta check my 57.

The later Raleighs went way overboard with wheel retention. The forks can be so tight that you need either three hands, a fork spreader or a mallet to hit the axle to get the wheel off. Plenty of bikes have forks that clear the front hub OLD without fork spreading and I've never had the wheel fall off one yet. I would much rather snug the axle nuts from time to time than have a wheel that couldn't be removed on the road.

My Humber Sport is a 49 and also not set up that way - it has the exact same fork end as @clubman and a shouldered nut with a washer that the shoulder goes into, just like the other picture.

Just thought I'd show the copper plating on the 52 SA trigger. I've seen brass before but this is new to me. The rust was hiding the patina.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ac...=w1470-h828-no

Bring a pair of hex nuts to the Brantford bike show next month and I'll be happy to machine the shoulders if you can tell me the diameter and depth of the shoulder. Perhaps someone on here can measure factory nuts and forward the sizes to one of us.
Then I'll mail em back to you when I'm done.

That would be a big favour.

I'll get a measurement on those once I get my digital caliper batteries replaced. Still looking for my other set of OEM nuts.

there's tons of time.

Nonsense. While rusty it is not rusted away. Use OA to remove as much rust as you can, clearcoat whatever is left and put it back together. The bike has too much character, unless you just need the parts for a different bike. You've already done the hard work.

I think that is a Raleigh anniversary headbadge, others on the forum would know for sure.

I always knew that this is possible, but I'd never seen it until now.

OA is Oxalic Acid, used for rust removal and probably an ingredient in brand name products that do the same thing. Once the surface is rust-free, coat it with something like sprayed-on clear lacquer or enamel to protect the bare metal surface. Your bike really looks okay to me other than the (admittedly prolific) surface rust. Considering how much work you've already done, it would be a shame just to let it go.

The local co-op had the bones of a ladies' Raleigh Sports that appeared to have been kept at the bottom of the sea for a while, but it was gone last time I went by. If I didn't already have one I'd have considered trying to bring that one back. My own 3-speeds are worn and chipped with some rust but are not nearly this bad.
Attachment 548659

what do you think, does it look like a corrosion problem or the result of bad construction/brazing? Well, yeah, there's a lot of rust, but I don't see any brass in the joints that pulled apart. I'm thinking that what this may be an example of is water intrusion into the interface between the frame tubes and the lugs -- a space that should have been penetrated with brazing material and that should have been immune from water penetration.

I've seen some pretty poor brazing jobs on Raleighs from the 70s: poor fitting lugs and massive and obvious voids.

Pretty ugly, in any event.

OA is oxalic acid which will convert rust into some sort of yellow crud which can be washed away. It's great to soak rusty chromed parts in and works a miracle, but I don't like the idea of soaking frames in it as I don't see any way to get all the crud out and any area inside the frame that doesn't get treated with some sort of inhibitor will likely rust again. Also, I think that there is a possibility of hydrogen embrittlement though I don't know if that's a serious concern or not. Lots of people disagree with me on OA as a frame soak and get good results so maybe I'm just outgassing.

If you are going to clearcoat over areas with rust, you're going to need to stop the corrosion process first. Some sort of stuff with phosphoric acid in it will do that -- it's what is used in the auto repair industry to remove the unavoidable surface rust that forms almost instantaneously on any bare, untreated iron or carbon steel. The process is to remove the rust mechanically and than treat with some sort of phosphate agent which converts remaining rust to some phosphate compound which will inhibit future rust. Smooth it out and paint either color or clearcoat. Sometimes people refer to the results of phosphoric acid treatment as "etching." Paint sticks well to treated iron/steel and it won't corrode if protected from the elements, i.e. painted.

That broken frame is indeed ugly, but I question how much of the problem was from poor assembly/brazing. Looks like the areas of the top tube and bottom tube that were actually brazed are pretty small.

Yeah, that's pretty nasty but even the ugliest Sports is likely to have something worth salvage. Even just the headset or bottom bracket could prove useful if you find a bike more worthy of attention. Beats the heck out of buying stuff from Greece on ebay. And, a fixable AW hub alone is probably worth the price of a crapped out Sports.

edited: Back when the hurricane hit Galveston/Houston (Ike in, as I remember, 2008), Galveston flooded --pretty much of the island under sea water. I've seen some bikes and cars salvaged after the flood and it's a very, very depressing sight.

Does anyone have the website or other contact information on "Yellow Jersey" or any other supplier for that matter for a reflector and housing?

Thanks!