Bike Forums

Bike Forums (https://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php)
-   General Cycling Discussion (https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=7)
-   -   What size Shimano EW-JC130 would I need for my handlebars? (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=1205060)

illjustride 06-18-20 05:28 AM

What size Shimano EW-JC130 would I need for my handlebars?
 
Hi everyone. I'm a bit new to the Di2 scene and was wondering if I can get some help from anyone who runs the EW-JC130 and the right size I would need for my new ENVE G-Series Gravel Bar. The handlebar size that I have are 44 cm wide. I know Shimano makes the EW-JC130 cable in 3 different sizes. I am running Shimano GRX shifters. Can anyone tell me which size I would need?

Bryan C. 06-18-20 07:13 AM

Use a piece of string or a flexible measuring tape and measure the actual length of the bars. Use that value to order the correct length cable.

I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.


RiceAWay 06-19-20 12:12 PM


Originally Posted by Bryan C. (Post 21540326)
Use a piece of string or a flexible measuring tape and measure the actual length of the bars. Use that value to order the correct length cable.

I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k

You have to be a little careful. Many of the Chinese carbon fiber bars are not a large enough ID for the bar end control unit. In order to make absolutely certain that the bar never breaks they make the layup too thick. And it isn't as if the BT--DN110 under-bar control unit is some sort of handicap. And it is less expensive. And easier to service.

illjustride 06-19-20 12:16 PM


Originally Posted by Bryan C. (Post 21540326)
Use a piece of string or a flexible measuring tape and measure the actual length of the bars. Use that value to order the correct length cable.

I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k

Thanks do you mean measure the length of the bar from the bar end, curve of the bend, cross bar to the other side? I'm also doing GRX Di2 and want to use the EW-JC130.

Bryan C. 06-19-20 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21542712)
Thanks do you mean measure the length of the bar from the bar end, curve of the bend, cross bar to the other side? I'm also doing GRX Di2 and want to use the EW-JC130.

My suggestion was to use a piece of string to measure out all the distances. Have the string follow the same route at the cable would, then measure the string. Easier than using a hard tape measure.

Just be sure to add about 50mm of length for a crash loop near both the shifters. If you crash and the shifters move, that movement can disconnect the Di2 cable if you don't have enough slack in the cable.

Steve B. 06-19-20 01:44 PM

And note that the E-Tube wire is flexible enough that any excess can just be tucked into whatever bar or frame section the wire is installed into, thus longer is OK.

Along with having some excess, Shimano recommends you make a loop of cable where it exits the shifter, tape and tuck it under the bar tape on EDIT: outside of the shifter on the part of the bar closer to the center of the bike. If you crash and the shifter gets knocked to the outside, good to have the excess as it will stay connected. If you make the connection tight to the shifter, it might come unplugged. That’s an annoying thing middle of a ride.

illjustride 06-19-20 03:43 PM


Originally Posted by Bryan C. (Post 21542829)
My suggestion was to use a piece of string to measure out all the distances. Have the string follow the same route at the cable would, then measure the string. Easier than using a hard tape measure.

Just be sure to add about 50mm of length for a crash loop near both the shifters. If you crash and the shifters move, that movement can disconnect the Di2 cable if you don't have enough slack in the cable.

Great thanks. I measured my bars with the string technique and they are 43 1/2 inches or 110.5cm. Now in terms of the EW JC130 cable, which length would work best? They have odd lengths like (550/550/50) (450,350,50) & (250,350,50)? A bit confusing.

illjustride 06-19-20 03:47 PM


Originally Posted by Steve B. (Post 21542856)
And note that the E-Tube wire is flexible enough that any excess can just be tucked into whatever bar or frame section the wire is installed into, thus longer is OK.

Along with having some excess, Shimano recommends you make a loop of cable where it exits the shifter, tape and tuck it under the bar tape on the outside of the shifter. If you crash and the shifter gets knocked to the outside, good to have the excess as it will stay connected. If you make the connection tight to the shifter, it might come unplugged. That’s an annoying thing middle of a ride.

Thanks for the tip. I measured my ENVE Gravel bars that are 44cm with the string technique and they are 43 1/2 inches or 110.5cm. Now in terms of the EW JC130 Y-cable, which length would work best? They have odd lengths like (550/550/50), (450,350,50) & (250,350,50)? A bit confusing. I would love some help with this.

Steve B. 06-19-20 04:48 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21543136)
Thanks for the tip. I measured my ENVE Gravel bars that are 44cm with the string technique and they are 43 1/2 inches or 110.5cm. Now in terms of the EW JC130 Y-cable, which length would work best? They have odd lengths like (550/550/50), (450,350,50) & (250,350,50)? A bit confusing. I would love some help with this.

I have never used this cable setup as it wasn’t available when I did my Di2 system. I used individual cables from the under stem mounted A Junction box, so cannot advise you.

kissTheApex 06-19-20 05:26 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21543136)
Thanks for the tip. I measured my ENVE Gravel bars that are 44cm with the string technique and they are 43 1/2 inches or 110.5cm. Now in terms of the EW JC130 Y-cable, which length would work best? They have odd lengths like (550/550/50), (450,350,50) & (250,350,50)? A bit confusing. I would love some help with this.

Did you watch the video from rides of japan youtube channel? You don’t really need the Y-cable from shimano to use the bar end junction box. But if you really want to use it, the numbers represent how long (in mms) each leg of Y is for the cable you want to buy. I believe theres a review on Amazon people mention what fits comfortably in what size of bars.

you will probably need a 200 mm (or slightly longer) single cable from bar end junction to your brifter, then a 350/250/150*. For those numbers, 350 goes to left brifter, 250 goes to right brifter, and 150 exits the handle bar near the stem (usually from the 250 side) and connects to an “inline” junction or ew111 Bluetooth/ANT+ unit. So, in theory, if there was a 350/250/1000 Y-cable, you could actually take the 1000 all the way down to bottom bracket to connect to the B junction if you were so inclined.

*(I’m making up all numbers to give you an idea on what the numbers mean in practice, I don’t remember exact sizes Y-cables come in)

If you want, read the manuals on Di2 center. They should give you a better idea with visuals to go with them.

illjustride 06-19-20 05:32 PM


Originally Posted by kissTheApex (Post 21543283)
Did you watch the video from rides of japan youtube channel? You don’t really need the Y-cable from shimano to use the bar end junction box. But if you really want to use it, the numbers represent how long (in mms) each leg of Y is for the cable you want to buy. I believe theres a review on Amazon people mention what fits comfortably in what size of bars.

you will probably need a 200 mm (or slightly longer) single cable from bar end junction to your brifter, then a 350/250/150*. For those numbers, 350 goes to left brifter, 250 goes to right brifter, and 150 exits the handle bar near the stem (usually from the 250 side) and connects to an “inline” junction or ew111 Bluetooth/ANT+ unit. So, in theory, if there was a 350/250/1000 Y-cable, you could actually take the 1000 all the way down to bottom bracket to connect to the B junction if you were so inclined.

*(I’m making up all numbers to give you an idea on what the numbers mean in practice, I don’t remember exact sizes Y-cables come in)

If you want, read the manuals on Di2 center. They should give you a better idea with visuals to go with them.

thanks for the help. I drew an image of what I’m trying to setup.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0cdf6b0a4.jpeg
Left right shifter with Y-Split cable, Bluetooth junction and Bar end junction box

kissTheApex 06-19-20 05:41 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21543293)
thanks for the help. I drew an image of what I’m trying to setup.

Left right shifter with Y-Split cable, Bluetooth junction and Bar end junction box

Where’s the cable connecting all those to the B-Junction? (As in, how this part of the system will connect to the battery, FD, RD?

If you’re going to connect another (really long) cable from bar end junction to B junction, you’re going to have to cram:
- Y to R cable,
- the Ewok unit,
- two cables on either end of Ewok unit, and
- the really long cable to B junction box

all inside the right portion of the handlebars. Are you certain you have that much internal room in the handlebar??

illjustride 06-19-20 05:53 PM


Originally Posted by kissTheApex (Post 21543304)
Where’s the cable connecting all those to the B-Junction? (As in, how this part of the system will connect to the battery, FD, RD?

If you’re going to connect another (really long) cable from bar end junction to B junction, you’re going to have to cram:
- Y to R cable,
- the Ewok unit,
- two cables on either end of Ewok unit, and
- the really long cable to B junction box

all inside the right portion of the handlebars. Are you certain you have that much internal room in the handlebar??

Yea so on the (L) shifter I was going to run a long cable down to junction B and into the battery. I should have mentioned also that this will be a 1X setup on Shimano GRX Di2.

kissTheApex 06-19-20 06:21 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21543323)
Yea so on the (L) shifter I was going to run a long cable down to junction B and into the battery. I should have mentioned also that this will be a 1X setup on Shimano GRX Di2.

Well then, you don’t really need the y cable do you? For the cost of a y cable, you can buy all required straight cables.

Bar end -> 150 mm -> Ewok-> 150 mm -> R -> 600 mm -> L -> 750 or 1000 mm -> B junction -> whatever to RD and Battery.

illjustride 06-19-20 06:25 PM


Originally Posted by kissTheApex (Post 21543358)
Well then, you don’t really need the y cable do you? For the cost of a y cable, you can buy all required straight cables.

Bar end -> 150 mm -> Ewok-> 150 mm -> R -> 600 mm -> L -> 750 or 1000 mm -> B junction -> whatever to RD and Battery.

Yeah for sure. You are right I can go with a regular cable if that makes it easier. Check out my new configuration I drew. I hope I got this right.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...90040f1b1.jpeg

Bryan C. 06-19-20 06:27 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21543293)
thanks for the help. I drew an image of what I’m trying to setup.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0cdf6b0a4.jpeg
Left right shifter with Y-Split cable, Bluetooth junction and Bar end junction box

I assume your enve bars are pre drilled for the Di2 cable internal routing? Seems like using the y-cable may not be the best solution for you. The video is clear about how to run the system while using the normal Di2 cables.

Using the method from the video. I ran a 1600mm cable from the left shifter, through the bars all the way to the right side bar end and attached it to the EW RS910 junction port. I then ran a 400mm cable from the EW RS910 to the right shifter. I then ran a 1600mm cable from the right shifter to the frame and to the b-junction port. I connected the EW WU111 BT between the b-junction and the internal seat post mounted battery with a 150mm and a 750mm cable, I wanted enough slack to remove the seat post and access the BT unit if needed. Obviously the last port goes to the RD, 950mm cable.

Hopefully that helps. This is for a size 56 frame.

kissTheApex 06-19-20 06:45 PM


Originally Posted by illjustride (Post 21543366)
Yeah for sure. You are right I can go with a regular cable if that makes it easier. Check out my new configuration I drew. I hope I got this right.

LOL. You reaaaaaaaaly want that Y- cable don’t you? :roflmao2:

what your new configuration is exactly what you started with, just the rest of the system added in.

To answer your question, yes, your new configuration will work. It will be just more expensive in parts, and a little bit harder to install because of wires overlapping the Y. At the very least, get a 150 mm between the bar end and Ewok. With a 500, you either end up having to place the Ewok near the stem (more congestion), or you’ll end up with serious coiling to make the Ewok stay downstream of brifter (aka) between Bar end and installation point of brifter.

illjustride 06-19-20 06:50 PM


Originally Posted by Bryan C. (Post 21543367)
I assume your enve bars are pre drilled for the Di2 cable internal routing? Seems like using the y-cable may not be the best solution for you. The video is clear about how to run the system while using the normal Di2 cables.

Using the method from the video. I ran a 1600mm cable from the left shifter, through the bars all the way to the right side bar end and attached it to the EW RS910 junction port. I then ran a 400mm cable from the EW RS910 to the right shifter. I then ran a 1600mm cable from the right shifter to the frame and to the b-junction port. I connected the EW WU111 BT between the b-junction and the internal seat post mounted battery with a 150mm and a 750mm cable, I wanted enough slack to remove the seat post and access the BT unit if needed. Obviously the last port goes to the RD, 950mm cable.

Hopefully that helps. This is for a size 56 frame.

I see. That might be a better way to go then. Maybe having access to that Bluetooth if needed is a good idea. The frame I have has a battery mount for Di2 on the downtube so I was also thinking of mounting it somewhere inside there between the B junction and the Battery. In terms of connectivity maybe it would be better to not split the cables and run straight cables instead.

kissTheApex 06-19-20 06:50 PM

Bryan C. , 1600 mm (~ 5’-4”) seems awfully long for bar end to opposite end shifter, did you have any trouble routing it?

Bryan C. 06-19-20 07:03 PM


Originally Posted by kissTheApex (Post 21543394)
Bryan C. , 1600 mm (~ 5’-4”) seems awfully long for bar end to opposite end shifter, did you have any trouble routing it?

I used the string method to measure. I had wanted an 1800mm cable but 1600mm was the longest I could find. It worked just fine even though I thought it was going to be too short. There was a little extra but nothing that couldn't be dealt with by stuffing it into the bars.

Steve B. 06-19-20 07:16 PM

Just curious if your brake cable is also internal to the bar ?.

If not, I’d question why bother with E-Tube internal.

As well and throwing a monkey wrench into the works, it’s cheaper in a 1X system to use a Shimano XT bar display unit, SC-MT800, in place of the bar end/under stem A Junction. It combines BT wireless, charging port, has a gear display, and 3 E-Tube ports. Saves about $85. Adds a device to the bar.

If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.

Bryan C. 06-19-20 07:42 PM


Originally Posted by Steve B. (Post 21543416)
Just curious if your brake cable is also internal to the bar ?.

If not, I’d question why bother with E-Tube internal.

As well and throwing a monkey wrench into the works, it’s cheaper in a 1X system to use a Shimano XT bar display unit, SC-MT800, in place of the bar end/under stem A Junction. It combines BT wireless, charging port, has a gear display, and 3 E-Tube ports. Saves about $85. Adds a device to the bar.

If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.

Good point about the internal vs external routing. Especially if you have an external mount battery.

RE the left shifter. The non-Di2 GRX left shifter has options for operating a dropper post, or as just a brake lever. From what I know they don't make a 1x specific Di2 left shifter . The Di2 and standard GRX shifters look different too.

kissTheApex 06-20-20 09:32 AM


Originally Posted by Steve B. (Post 21543416)
If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.

Yeah, I too completely gleaned the fact that it was going to be 1X, hence no need to get a connection to the left brifter.

The OP seems to think he absolutely needs the Y-Cable (I’m sure he has his reasons), but I think the above is the best advice for a permanent 1X system.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:31 AM.


Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.