+1

Get the 109.5.

Nice price.

I will do some hunting later but Boyd, of Boyd wheel fame, has done a lot of blogging on this subject.

Zipp does track wheels with 808 rims but did not recommend using a powertap hub (large flange) with a 1080 rim due to the angles. So in their case ~88mm rim is ok. It will depend on the rim and the drilling.

i saw a local racer on track fc 404s with a PT...

http://images.uncyclomedia.co/uncycl...n/9/9e/697.gif

fyxo/cycle underground
 

Excellent chainring for the money.

Runs quiet.
Chain take up is smooth.
Concentric, and very well made.

Those are the Cycle Underground chainrings made down here in Oz. FYXO is handling the distribution of them nowadays

The high flange hubs were designed to shorten the spoke to rim length to take the additional effective weight loading caused by g-forces on a banking back when people were using box section rims. When you start going to taller rims, especially once you start hitting 80-90mm they really aren't necessary if you have a good build, which would include a hub with an adequate axle.

I ran a road HED S9 front with a screw type skewer when we set the Nats 45+ TP record at Carson and a bunch of other races. Thought it was stiffer than the high flange box wheel I use in training.

Why anyone wouldn't run a disc rear in all events, I dunno.

If you were using internal nipples I could see this being a problem as the spoke would make a sharp bend at the nipple when the nipple sits inside the rim. I am thinking if you have a wheel that needs washers this may also be a problem as the washer makes the nipple sit at a straight angle inside the rim. I know the nipples we use (Sapim Polyax) have a rounded bottom that allows them to take on a good angle and keep the spoke in a straight line (not having to bend to adjust to the nipple). On our super deep track wheels we are still using high flange hubs and there's no issue at all with the spokes taking a good line into the nipple. . . and with a bracing angle that big, man are they stiff wheels!

I would bet. Just took a look at the 2013 wheels, anything new for 2014? I'm considering going over to a tubeless clincher in the 50-60mm depth for crits...have folks used the Stan's conversion with your 60's?

I've also noticed some straight pull hubs coming out of Taiwan this year, thoughts?

Is Keirin considered a sprint or endurance race? Seems just as long if not longer than a Kilo but it seems people categorize it more as a sprint.

If you can pass the motor and keep going it's an endurance event.

The time behind the motor you spend so little energy it doesn't really count as race time.

what is a good tubular tyre to use on concrete velodromes mainly for training but good enough for racing?

This comes up often enough, probably worth its own thread. I will start one...

If you're a pure sprinter it's an endurance event. If you're anybody else it's that time when you take a break while they drive a motor around the track and then sweep up crashes.

Apt comment... Result is a broken collar bone and ribs I believe!

oh man, he had no chance!

Any WC videos popping up yet that we can watch in the states?

This work?

"The uploader has not made this video available in your country"

And I can't be bothered to start finding ways to view through proxy.

There's a really easy way. It'll change your whole world.

Download the Hola plugin for your browser.
Install it. It will put an icon in your browser interface.
When you hit a blocked video, click the icon. Select a different country to route your connection through.
Re-load the page.
Enjoy the video.

So, my small random question :-)

Going by Carleton's recommendation of money-spend order (below for memory refreshement), the basic aerodynamic goodies sit slightly above half way in importance, what are folks' views on the relative advantages between:
a - mass start aero-helmet, (i've got my beady eye on the Giro Air Attack Shield. Currently ride with a standard road helmet)
b - super narrow bars (the 33cm Alpina..) - my current bars are 37cm sprint bar, but my shoulders (distance between acromonions) is ~33cm.

similar prices.

I'm an enduro, focusing on points, scratch and team pursuit.

Thanks :)


(in my humble opinion) spend money in this general order:

- Track season pass (ride/race as much as possible)
- Road Bike
- *basic* equipment (chainrings, cogs, tools). Notice that I didn't say fancy carbon or aero gear.
- Race entry fees (but this should be covered in the season pass)
- Clinics
- Skinsuit, aero helmet, booties
- Diet for Athletes book. This will change your energy and fat levels.
- Gym membership (if you plan to be a sprinter)
- Coaching (optional really)
- Travel to other tracks for regional type events to broaden your horizions
- Aero front wheel
- Fancy carbon/custom frame
- Aero disc

I'd get the bars first, for no other reason is that bars tend to be more or less forever. Start getting used to the narrower bars ASAP. IMHO, position on the bike (including bar width) is what you sort out first prior to messing with aero wheels and helmets.

Besides, the benefit of an aero helmet for mass start is tenuous at best. Not nearly as clear cut as for individual events or sprint.

i have the scatto 35s going to try those for mass start. i also ordered some deda 36s for both the road and track. i'll probably end up using the dedas since i tend to ride on the tops during a mass start.